rx8guy86

I am putting together the new sound system for the car. Here is what I have bought so far. What do you think of this setup?? All opinions are welcome.

Kicker kx1200.0 Mono Amp
Kicker KX850.4 4 Channel Amp
Two Orion 10" Competition Subs 1500watt Peak
1 Pair of Infinity 10.7T 1" Tweeters for the front
1 Pair of Infinity 10.7T 1" Tweeters for the rear
Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 Component Speaker Set for the doors
Infinity Kappa 693.7i 6x9 3 way for the rear deck
Two 2 Farad Caps

Planning to do the install next weekend...

Any suggestions?

1145climber

can't wait to see the finished product. should sound sick if you do it up righttt

edit: oh and you should document the install, cause it'd make a great DIY

rx8guy86

Ok, I will try and take lots of pictures. I may put it off a week and go ahead and do the dynomat in the trunk. What you think?

WikkedOne

You really don't need that much cap... you will maybe need one of those.. i actualy took out my cap because i thought it was causing a problem.. turns out it wasn't but i didn't notice a big enough change to warrent putting it back in.
if i were you I owuld invest that money into a nice optima red or yelow top battery

i would like to know what box you are planning to use for your subs

and where do you plan on grounding? are you running back to the battery or no?

what about a line leveler?

and remember when your doing your install it's about the DETAILS...

think out every step on paper before you do it..
take your time and do everything perfect..
then double check every connection and every screw when you're done.

rx8guy86

Being that I will be running two amps, one at 1400 watts and the other at 850 watts, you dont think I will need both caps? I do not want any dimming from the car with the stereo.
I will probably put a optima battery in as well as a grounding kit.
The box was made by Zenclosures out of FL. It is a custom box that fits flush between the wheels.
The line leveler, I will be using an AudioControl LC8.
As for the ground, I will most likely ground it in the trunk.
I also purchases a 0/1awg Kicker Amp kit.

WikkedOne

yeah a good rule for cap is 1 farad per 1000 watts

since your sub amp is only 600 RMS @ 2 ohms
and your other is 175 x 4 at 4 ohms (although I seriously doubt you will ever push near that much to your fronts)
that only adds up to 1300 at max rms -- one cap will be fine by the rule.

but seriously you don't NEED any caps at all if you get a good battery. if it were me i would do the install without a cap - and add the cap if I need it later (although i seriously seriously doubt you will)

but then again, there is no real harm in putting them in in the first place, there isn't really a thing as too much cap. it's just a waste of time and money.

I found that having it adds a level of complexity when you are finding bugs and things - you can't just unplug the battery you also have to unplug the cap or you risk a nasty short thats one of the main reasons i took mine out.

I think some of the people here with big systems can back me up...


as for the ground --

if you're doing the grounding kit then a trunk ground might be ok
but it might not --
be sure to read the grounding sticky on this forum and at least test whatever ground you use just to be sure...

and as for the 0/1 kit -- thats a tad overkill but again, there isn't really any harm in it - 4 awg would be more than your system will ever need

how / where are you going to put your amps?
i know they pretty big and might not both fit down in the well if you were planning on doing that..

and good choice on the zenclosures box..

rx8guy86

I am going to build something that will sit in the well to hold both amps up at an angle in a staggered pattern.

How hard were your front components to install? Do you have any pictures you could email me of your setup?

WikkedOne

actually I don't have any pics.. and I used a link from the audio reference sticky to guide me... and since i'm not a install pro it was pretty difficult - getting the new wires through the grommets in the doors was the hardest part.. me and and friend finally decided to take the doors off because we couldn't get any leverage...

it took me and my friend 2 days to do my whole install so make sure you plan for that just in case..

rx8guy86

How hard is it to take of the doors?

What is the largest awg wire that will fit thru the plug in the door?

WikkedOne

the doors are easy.. just 4 bolts on the hinges.. but it is a 2 person job and you are REAAALLLLYY careful with them

and there is plenty of room for whatever gauge you want to run..

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

hmm, this setup looks AWFULLY familiar.....

rx8guy86

haha.. Its not IDENTICAL! lol i did get a couple ideas from ya though

lurch519

lose the 2 sets of extra tweeters, totally redundant, especially with the component fronts.
also, i would lose the two 2 farad caps, and just do on 12 farad cap, stinger has a nice one with built in distrobution as well as voltmeter and ammeter, and will probably use about the same amount of space or less than the two 2 farads, plus it accepts 0 guage input
the 850.4 is a huge amp, if i remember at least if not bigger than the 1200.1, way overkill for your needs (who am i kidding, i have 300 watts going to EACH front door)

rx8guy86

You think the 850.4 is too much?? why is that??

WikkedOne

your 850.4 is really 175 x 4 RMS

it's not THAT overkill but i doubt you will ever push 100 Watts to any one front speaker at any given time -- unless your REEEAAALLLYY killing it, although I've never personally tested it, I may be wrong.

and as for your molex question -- you could probably fit a 4 AWG if you wanted to.. there is PLENTY of room!

lurch519

it is a huge amp. i work for a well established car audio retailer on the east coast, one of the biggest kicker dealers on the east coast, and we have NEVER sold an 850.4. we will sell the odd 650.4, in a larger system. like i said, it is a huge amp.

if you dont have the speakers to take advantage of the power, its really a waste of money to go with that amp.

also, like i said, i am running 300 rms to each of my front doors, using one alpine pdx 2.150 per door, powering a set of the diamond d9 component speakers, which, not the most expensive car audio speakers on the market, are pretty costly.

rx8guy86

I will be running a set of Infinity Kappa Perfect 6.1 Components in the doors... The peak is 400 rms... I think they will handle it dont you?

Alterego667

Nice system...
I have found by putting an amp between the 2 backseats it makes a whole lot of room for my trunk space. I also have a Zenclosure box and put my amp between the seats. I then used 2 eye bolts and some hardware hooks to screw into the box and tighten it to the frame so the box can not be ripped out or move from driving...
So i then cut and modified the Plasitc cubby that leads to the trunk to be my amp cover when i do not want to show it off and lock it up...
Looks clean when finished...

Good luck
Brian

rx8guy86

That looks pretty sweet! I would do that, except I have two larger kicker amps... They will be in today. Im going to have to measure to try and figure a way to fit both of the amps, AudioControl LC8, and cap in the trunk....

Anybody have any suggested layout schemes?

jstkilntim

I personally would not recommend removing the doors. It is just not needed. You have to remove the molex to remove the door, not remove the door to remove the molex. Why take a chance of dropping them, scratchinig them etc.? Use forbidden's molex thread and everything will go smooth.

I personally used #16, but #14 or #12 should easily go through the molex pin holes. Depends a lot on the insulation thickness of the wires you use. I can't imagine you would need a #12 anyway. No need to go bigger than what came w/ the speakers unless it is a long run.

rx8guy86

Yeah, I'm not really up for removing the doors.. Like you said, I dont want to drop or scratch them. The molex thread should be just fine.

I am using 12awg Directed Twisted speaker wire from the doors to the trunk...

lurch519

looks like you may be a little off on the power handling. the power handling of the 6.1's, according to the owners manual, is 100 watts rms, or 400 peak. now there is nothing wrong with going with an amp that is much larger than what the speaker can handle, but again, this is m major overkill. a more appropriate amp would be , say the new pdx 4.100, or if you want to still have lots of power, the pdx 4.150. not that i have anything against kicker, but with the limited trunk space in the 8, the pdx amps are perfect for fitting them in.

i will be doing a total of 4 amps in mine, and they will take the same space, or just a bit more than the 850.4

i hope that you arent taking all this the wrong way, i am just trying to offer advice (i have spent 10 years in the industry)

rx8guy86

Oh no.. I appreciate any advice I can get... On the two kicker amps. I got a killer deal on them... 300 for the 1200.1 and 200 for the 850.4. At least I will have room to upgrade my doors and rear if needed

jstkilntim

I have #16 twisted pair to the doors. I just stripped the clear jacket far enough back (about 3 ft or so) to run the + & - through seperate holes in the molex.

I currently have a RF and an Eclipse amp and really wanted to go w/ JL, but I am seriosly considering the PDX line due to the size. I know wikked is trying to push me that way. He! He!

lurch519

you should just killin time.

they are bad *** amps

i am going to be using a total of 4 of them

2.150 to each door

2.150 to rear deck speakers

1.1000 for type x sub