Rotary REVolution

hello, i have recently gotten an 8 and i pretty much know hardly anything about subs, amps, etc. i am considering the knew metra kit so i can install a double din unit. i would like to install the pioneer avic d3 http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PU...n-Dash/AVIC-D3 along with two 12" subs in the trunk. as far as subs go i would like to get two alpine SWX-1243D http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/prod...odel=SWX-1243D and i was going to get two alpine MRP-M2000 amps http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/prod...odel=MRP-M2000.

any help/information you can provide me with regarding this stuff would be most appreciated. first off, i need to know is it actually necessary to get two amps to provide the needed power to each sub? what all wiring components would i need, and would these subs/amps be compatible with the pioneer unit? also, would the pioneer unit plus the subs and amps combined be compatible with the stock bose system? (only looking to add subs... dont really want to swap out everything)... if not and if im just totally wrong here and none of this would work at all, what would work and what would any of you recomend to me?

THANKS!

Socket7

A single 10" sub is more then enough for this car if you set your crossovers properly, and get some good cabin speakers.

If you're going the metra kit route, you're going to be replacing the cabin speakers anyways. Your alpine deck is not going to be able to interface with the Bose amp in the trunk, and you sure as hell cant run the door speakers directly off an aftermarket head unit (you could do the rear decks, but they'll sound like crap without the bose amp's EQ curve).

Get a 6 channel amplifier like Mine and put it in the trunk. Get a 10" sub and a 4080 box to mount it in. Get the metra kit, and get your pioneer deck. Then use the money you saved on not getting 2 12"s and buy some infinity kappa 6x9's for the rear deck, Some JL TR 6.5" components for the door speakers, and a 3.5" JL coaxial speaker for the front center channel (you're going to have the dash apart to install the metra kit anyways, may as well put a center channel speaker in while you're there, and it will keep all the sound in the right place).

This is the same kind of setup i built in my car. I'd describe the sound from it as "crystal clear" and "ear shattering" and the bass as "felt, not heard".

Oh yeah. You're probably going to want the pro's to install all this if you're not familiar with modern consumer electronics disassembly. Theres lots of places you can damage trim pieces, fry components, or otherwise screw up your gear. If you don't know how to solder, use heat shrink, or have an understanding of basic electronic circuits, it's best left to the pro's.

Rotary REVolution

hey thanks for the info Socket7. so there's absoultely no way to keep to bose system with ANY aftermarket unit? how does your set up compare to the stock bose one?

what would a rough estimate on the entire setup you just told me about run? plus install will probably be a lot =X

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

That is correct. If you swap out the stock headunit, you cannot utilize the Bose amp. Replacing the interior speakers and powering them with their own amp is a must when you replace the stock headunit.

When talking subwoofers, you can wire the subs together and then to a single amp. No need to buy two amps simply because you have two subs.

I understand you may want more bass than what Socket7 is proposing. But he is correct. What you're currently looking at is more than overkill. It appears as you're ready to drop some serious dough on a system. But how much bass are you HONESTLY looking for? Because even two 12" Alpine TYPE-R's with ONE of those amp would bump HARD. The stock Bose speakers sure as hell wouldn't keep up with even that. I suggest throttling it back a little bit and spending more money on the installation. Have a pro fabricator build you a sick looking custom made fiberglass box for your sub(s) and amp(s). Now you have a show quality car and still PLENTY of bass.

If you've got the money, go with two of Alpine's PDX series amps. They look phenomenal in my opinion, and are extremely powerful. Maybe the PDX 4.150 for all the interior speakers and the PDX 1.1000 for the subs? Exact models would depend on the power requirements for whatever speakers you settle on.

Lastly, I own the Pioneer D3. Love it. But Pioneer has just released the new line. The F90BT is top dog. I've personally used it in car. It includes many features the D3 lacks. (Solid state based navigation versus disc, text-to-speech, built in bluetooth, 4V RCA preout, and more) You'd be a fool to still buy the D3. Unless you're getting it brand new for maybe $400. If you're set on it.... I'll sell you mine and buy the F90BT myself.

HaiDoGGRX-8

I would have to agree with firebirdude I just got my d3 new for $670 with bluetooth and the ipod connector and if i spend about 200 more i could of got the f90bt. bluetooth is built in and i would love to have a gps where no disk is required to gps. Im actually considering posting mine up for sale and getting the f90bt.

Rotary REVolution

hey thanks a lot firebirdude. i think you understand a little better what i'm actually wanting in my car. i definitely want a pioneer headunit and am pretty (although not %100) set on alpine speakers (now that i know i must replace them) and subs. i simply like the sound quality of alpine over other companies. do you agree that alpine is a good brand to go with... i've yet to hear anything bad about them, but if there's anything i should know please tell me.

i did see pioneers new f series but didnt pay a ton of attention to it for some reason. is the f90bt the best bang for the buck but with still most of the features? would it be compatibale with the type of speakers and subs i am interested in puting in my car? if i went with alpine, what setup do you think would be good? there are way too many subs/amps/speakers to choose from and idk what's good and what's not. also... i guess i'm confused about how much power speakers and subs need. i was assuming that if it's a 3000w sub than it would need a 3000w amp to power it?

as far as the custom sub/amp enclosure goes, i'd love to do that but i have no idea where i would get that done or how much it would cost. i was just planning on picking up a carpeted box for like 100 bucks i guess =S i'm not even sure there would be a place close to where i live that could make any custom stuff worth buying. is there another way to get custom enclosures besides local?

Socket7

I've spent about a grand on my setup. It blows the Bose system clear into next week. I'm a huge proponent of a balanced system with "loud as hell" being a side effect.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Sure. Alpine is a decent brand. Can't fault any product they make actually. Maybe do an all Type-R setup??
Pioneer F90BT
SPR-17S = Front speakers
SPR-69C = Rear speakers
MRP-F600 OR PDX-4.100 = Amp for interior speakers
MRP-M1000 OR PDX-1.1000 = Amp for subs
SWR-1222D = Subs (note the 2ohm+2ohm or "dual 2 ohm" version is what you'll need)
This, This or This subwoofer box.
This wiring kit and you'll need this additional pair of RCAs.

The 4080 boxes are the most expensive and will only hold the 10" version of the subwoofers, but in my opinion looks much cleaner. Let me state that the quality of the 4080 boxes is nothing short of outstanding and immaculate.

Either of those above mentioned amps will work. The PDX series is higher end and in my opinion, 10 times as sexy.

You'll need to get some 9" to 6 1/2" adapter plates for the front speakers. Couple people on the message board have stated that Crutchfield has them, but I can't find them on their website. Most people make their own out of Lexan. (higher end Plexiglass)

Scout out a reputable installation facility. It would be a god damn shame if some low-knowledge shop butchered the hell out of all your new equipment.

Rx8mybaby

listen to firebird .. I've got a honda CR-V for my winter cruiser.. and I'm running 2 12" type r's w/ a 1.1000 pdx .. type x components in the front and type r's in the rear powered by a pdx 4.100 ... and it sounds rediculous.. Uber clean and Uber loud.. i don't even have the gains turned up all that much.. definitely best bang for your buck if you are smart and shop around... I put in maybe a thou for all of that.. just don't skimp on the head unit.. plus the alpine component speakers come w/ the mounting plates for proper fit...
(do the 6.5's really fit the front doors firebird?? i thought it was 5 1/4's... alpine's conversions for the 5x7's were 5 1/4" components ... just curious as i'm about to move half my system into my 8... sorry not trying to hijack thread.. )

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

The stock speaker size for the front is 9". Obviously an uncommon size. So you'll need to jigsaw yourself out a pair of adapter plates out of ABS plastic or lexan. (Do not use wood) Then you can fit anything you want in there. 6.5", 5.25", or 8".

How you only paid a G for all that is beyond me. Unless some equipment was used. The two amps alone would run about $750 new.

Davey's RX-8

iTrader: (1)

I disagree on the wood. I have wood in there and it worked just perfectly for my Boston Acoustics 6 1/2" and 4" speakers in there together, not to mention the space available was perfect as well.

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

It is a well known fact moisture easily gets into door panels. Sometimes straight up water. Wood + moisture + time = bad news. If yours are holding up perfectly, more power to you. But for the small amount of materials were talking, the price of wood versus plastic is nil. Why risk it?

Socket7

I've heard tall tales about the drains in the bottoms of the doors clogging and the door panel literally filling with water. I happened to have lexan laying around from another project so I used it when I made my brackets.

I'd at least make sure the wood was pressure treated if I used it. MDF wouldn't be bad either but you'd have to seal it first as it turns to mud when it gets wet.

Rx8mybaby

ebay is my best friend for alpine ... spent months on end waiting and buying one piece at a time... and a bit of luck on the auction end didn't hurt either.. nobody wound up bidding against me on a lot of the stuff.. (wound up getting my pair of 12's for 80 bucks.. ) just make sure you look up the seller's ratings and history.. was a little leary when i first started buying online ... but everything i've gotten has been brand new in box...

Rotary REVolution

thanks for the help everybody. i seriously appreciate it. however, i have to say that i've completely changed my mind about installing a sick audio set up in my car and have decided to install a full exhaust with catless midpipe in my car instead... i figure once that's in i won't be needing the radio much at all anyways >=] but thanks again

jstkilntim

If you are not interested in replacing your whole system, you can easily use the Bose Amp(s) by cutting the inputs to the main (rear) amp, soldering in RCAs and connecting directly to the aftermarket HU. The higher voltage pre-amp outs of the HU actually make the Bose System perform better, just like they would any other amp. Your system will sound cleaner & louder without maxing out the volume control.

I currently have the signal out of my JL CleanSweep running through the main amp powering tweeters & the center speaker. The center channel doesn't make much difference in my situation since it is over powered by the rest of the system, but the tweeters rock.

Try it. It will cost you about $5.00 to do. If you don't like it, yank it out.