My New DashDaq Series II
08-13-2008, 01:41 PM
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My New DashDaq Series II
After installing the Greddy Turbo kit on my 07' 8 a couple of weeks ago, I was looking for a one gauge solution to show me boost and to read ODB2 CELs (clear the standard P0661 that you get with the Greddy kit).
DashDaq seemed to have the most promise for my current needs and upgradeability for possible future needs. I have it installed now and for the most part, it is a success, however, it is not without its problems.
1. Currently it will not read the P0661 as a stand alone CEL. I've contacted them and they promise a firmware update to fixt this in the near future. It will, however, read P0661 if accompanied by other CELs.... go figure.
2. Since the out of the box Greddy kit is only good for 6 PSI, I customized the boost gauge to show -12 PSI to 7 PSI. This seems like a great solution because I get a nice sweep on the digital representation of an anolog boost gauge, however, since my electronic boost sensor is capable of sensing -20 PSI to 30 PSI over a 0v to 5v range, every volt represents approx. 14.4 PSI. Given that and the fact that the sensor is cheap and fluctuates .2 volts under boost (approx. 3 PSI), the needles bounces too much. My solution for now is to change the boost gauge range from -15 to 15, thus the needle moves less with the 3 PSI fluctuations.
3. Since DashDaq doesn't have specific drivers for Mazda, it uses a Generic ODB2 driver, which doesn't include the knock sensor. It doesn't include air/fuel ratio either. DashDaq claims that this will only get better as new firmware is released.
4. The nice included gauge skins are supposed to be customizeable, but their editing tool hasn't been released for prime time yet. I look forward to that.
DashDaq seemed to have the most promise for my current needs and upgradeability for possible future needs. I have it installed now and for the most part, it is a success, however, it is not without its problems.
1. Currently it will not read the P0661 as a stand alone CEL. I've contacted them and they promise a firmware update to fixt this in the near future. It will, however, read P0661 if accompanied by other CELs.... go figure.
2. Since the out of the box Greddy kit is only good for 6 PSI, I customized the boost gauge to show -12 PSI to 7 PSI. This seems like a great solution because I get a nice sweep on the digital representation of an anolog boost gauge, however, since my electronic boost sensor is capable of sensing -20 PSI to 30 PSI over a 0v to 5v range, every volt represents approx. 14.4 PSI. Given that and the fact that the sensor is cheap and fluctuates .2 volts under boost (approx. 3 PSI), the needles bounces too much. My solution for now is to change the boost gauge range from -15 to 15, thus the needle moves less with the 3 PSI fluctuations.
3. Since DashDaq doesn't have specific drivers for Mazda, it uses a Generic ODB2 driver, which doesn't include the knock sensor. It doesn't include air/fuel ratio either. DashDaq claims that this will only get better as new firmware is released.
4. The nice included gauge skins are supposed to be customizeable, but their editing tool hasn't been released for prime time yet. I look forward to that.
08-13-2008, 01:44 PM
#2
2. You can increase boost with a boost controller to 9 psi, it will generate quite a bit more power.
3. Knock sensor is useless. AFR is useless too. Get a real AFR wideband.
You might want to consider getting the accessport, it will allow you to get rid of the EMU, and remove any useless CELs that are being tripped.
3. Knock sensor is useless. AFR is useless too. Get a real AFR wideband.
You might want to consider getting the accessport, it will allow you to get rid of the EMU, and remove any useless CELs that are being tripped.
08-13-2008, 04:03 PM
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2. You can increase boost with a boost controller to 9 psi, it will generate quite a bit more power.
3. Knock sensor is useless. AFR is useless too. Get a real AFR wideband.
You might want to consider getting the accessport, it will allow you to get rid of the EMU, and remove any useless CELs that are being tripped.
3. Knock sensor is useless. AFR is useless too. Get a real AFR wideband.
You might want to consider getting the accessport, it will allow you to get rid of the EMU, and remove any useless CELs that are being tripped.
What is an "accessport"? I'm able to remove any CELs with the DashDaq, I just can't read the P0661 when its the only CEL. I get an error message reading it, but it still recognizes that there is one and clears it when I ask it to do so.
I will try and post some pictures within the next day or so.
08-13-2008, 04:04 PM
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