TheBri

I've done a lot of reading on the forum here to find out what you fine people have done/tested/suffered through. Wow.

It seems like the best solution is putting a good LOC right out of the head unit (prior to the Bose amps). I'm going to go with an Audio Control LC6 and it appears that this picture is correct for what lines do what out of the factory harness. Cut the front/rear outputs, send them to the LC6, and all is happy in my little audio world?

Sorry for the stupid-*** question but I'd rather ask a stupid-*** question than fry something because I assumed something. The smell of burning electronics is not a happy one.

forbidden

You are actually better off going with the 6XS in this case. Why? It includes the bass remote, it is a line driver, it is a highly advanced LOC, it allows you to balance the gain properly between the high voltage front preout and low voltage rear preout and it is a easy install in this system. It is easy to tap the preamp lines in the rear of the vehicle at the Bose amp as well. This puts all of the electronics in the rear of the car where there is room for it and easy access to everything for adjustments. If your up for a road trip, head over and see me on Vancouver Island, I'll line up an 8 for you to listen to that has had a major overhaul.

jstkilntim

TheBri,
Hopefully this goes along w/ this thread & is not a HIJACKING!

forbidden,
I have pretty much read everything you have said about the LC6 & 6XS on this forum & the12volt.com. You just answered a question that I PMd you about yesterday. Is it possible to only tap into the pre amp signals w/ the 6XS and leave the Bose amps hooked up for the time being? I will eventually remove the Bose amps etc., but only want to add subs for now. I would rather buy the 6XS now instead of spending the money on something temporary. Thanks. Peace!!

TheBri

Forbidden, thanks for the response! The benefit I see from the 6XS is that it's a crossover as well as a LOC.

This is my thinking behind that: From what I've read the LC6 also has variable output gain controls for each channel and the optional bass gain controller. My sub amp has a remote gain control already (JL Audio 500/1) so I really don't need that feature of either of these products. The 500/1 has a built in crossover and all my high end drivers have crossovers for them - no need to really edit the sound (so to speak) before it hits those. The 6XS would give me more flexibility from the land of crossover frequencies between the highs/sub but I just don't know if I'm going to need it. I've done fine in the past going with the built in sub amp crossover and relying on the crossovers that come with the high end drivers.

The more I think through the entire build the more I'm starting to convince myself to just go with tapping the rear speaker pre-outs in the back of the car, balance the front/rear with the amp and/or <Audio Control LOC I buy>, and be done with it. I rarely (if ever) actually use the 'fader' **** on any of my stereos once I have them setup properly and that would be the only reason to tap into the front pre-out at all. Both front/rear pre-outs are unprocessed and full range; the front just has a higher output from the HU.

Comments on my logic here?

Here is the entire system I'm putting in:

JL Audio 500/1
JL Audio 300/4
Focal 1653VE in the front
Focal 165V2 in the rear deck
JL Audio 12W6 in a 1.23cuft. sealed box

It's a "nice basic system". It will be plenty loud and will sound infinitely better than the Bose disaster area that's in there right now.

btw - I'm going to be in Vancouver on April 10th for the Canucks game. I know it's not Vancouver Island, but...

Yes, you could very easily do that. You'd just need to put a splice on the pre-amp signals so it hits the Bose amp AND your LOC. Please take the extra time to solder the connection. Do not use vampire taps... the suck. AHAHAHAH. oh. I kill me. Seriously, vampire taps are bad, do not use them.

jstkilntim

TheBri,
I'm still trying to figure out which one I want to use. I do like the auto turn on feature of the LC6, but wasn't sure if it would work well w/ the pre outs from the head unit since it is designed to go after the amp. The 6XS is designed for pre outs, but I don't think I need the crossovers either. Have you decided anything yet? Any more pros & cons?
Thanks,
Doyle

bean438

This is all very confusing. Right now i tapped into my rear speakers (after bose amp) for my sub. No problems except the rest of the system sucks.

Time for a new amp and speakers.

Here is where I am confuse. Non bose Head unit.....use the Navone converter. Bose head unit, use the LC6.

Either way tap in before the Bose amp, and into new amp/speakers.

But then I hear Bose head units should use the 6XS, not the LC6.

Why cant I juist use plain old line converters after the bose amp (tap front and rear out puts) and then to my new amp?

Cactus geaorge fried his head unit after tapping before the bose amp.

So, with a bose system, do we tap before, or after the bose amp?
Do we use the Navone converter, or the LC6, or the 6XS?

How bout running after the bose amp, right into an alpine amp , via speaker level inputs, and then to the new speakers?
Can someone clear this up? The posts in the sticky seem to contradict.

jstkilntim

Any will work. The LC6 is for speaker level input. The 6XS is for line level input. Both are more advanced than the Navone. My problem is that the LC6 and the 6XS both have different options that I am looking for & I'm having trouble deciding which is going to work better for me in the long run. According to most of the owners & technicians that have already done this, it seems like the input to the Bose amp is a flat signal, but equalized after the amp. Tapping after the amp is O.K. if it is equalized for the purpose you will be using it for, but from my understanding is not full range. I'm not sure, but I think that people had problems w/ their head units using a regular LOC or going directly to the speaker level inputs of an amp. When using an advanced LOC like the ones above, there is very little draw on the head unit. Do a search here & at the12volt.com for all of forbidden's information on these. It looks to me like he has as much experience as anyone. Peace!!

bean438

As much as I love the RX8, I am really starting to hate it.

My problem realy is the Alpine stuff I installed in my xterra. Until then, I didnt realize how bad the Bose really was. I thought it actually sounded pretty good with a sub.

It is really frustrating, because for my xterra, I installed the 4 speakers, and head unit myself. I will instal an amp or two myself also.

Not too difficult, and fun to do.

But all this line converter/differential output/relocate the factory head unit to the trunk, etc......wow.

Now I am reading the head unit powers the front tweeters, and the amp powers the rear speakers.....ahhh! Lol.

The high cost of relocating the headunit, and fabing a new dash is actuall looking really good.



I may just contact forbidden directly, or at least phone the LC6 company.

jstkilntim

The 8 definitely wasn't designed for audio. I am looking forward to the challenge. Believe it or not, I actually want to build a system around the stock HU. Keep it kinda stealth. This forum has all the info needed for any install, you just have to sift through the opinions also. Do that and still be original, sounds fun huh? Good luck!!

eddybear

So the BOSE rear dash and front speakers & tweeters are no good?

It doesnt sound bad to me but maybe I dunno what I'm to be listening for..

jstkilntim

If you like it, it is good for you! Just dont listen to any aftermarket system or you will want to replace all of it.

Socket7

Have you looked into the Audiocontrol DQL8? It does everything you could ever possibly need in a LOC/signal processor/equalizer/crossover

Gish

What firmware version is your Bose hu, and if it is 9.55 or greater, what are you planning on doing with it? Please PM.

jstkilntim

Yes I have. It is as awesome piece of equipment. That post is nearly 2 years old and if I remeber correctly, the DQL8 wasn't even out at that time.

Thanks for the recommendation anyway.

Peace!

eddybear

replace to what, i just checked the audiocontrol website and I think I am going to get that dql-8 for certain.

So far my setup is:

JL 1000/1 (In the dugout area)
JL 12W6V2 or JL 12W7s (In that space between the strut housings)
Audiocontrol DQL-8
BOSE HU & Original Speakers ??

I am wondering if that last part is gonna need changing

jstkilntim

So many options. If all you are doing is adding an amp and sub, you really don't need the DQL8. If you will eventually be adding an amp and components to the factory HU, you can't go wrong w/ it. If the Bose HU does everything you need it to, the DQL8 will make it sound as good as any aftermarket HU.

If you are satisfied w/ the Bose mids & highs, keep them and save the money. Howevver, if you are thinking of adding that much bass, you will probably not be happy w/ the Bose for long. Nearly any entry to mid level components will sound better than the Bose. Step up to a quality set in the front and rear w/ a quality 75W or so to each and you will be stoked.

You need a lot of space for the W7s, but it would rock.

eddybear

But what do you consider quality for the rear deck, front mids and tweeters?

btw, i jus been looking and I really dont see anyone with the 12W7s in our cars... maybe it's not possible :X

Socket7

Holy thread resurrection batman!

jstkilntim

It is very possible, it just uses all of your trunk space.

Stick w/ a name brand. I personally went w/ Eclipse and I doubt that any sound much better. Infinity is popular on this site. Look at Diamond Audio, JL, & Alpine to name a few. Just go to a couple local shops and see what sounds good to you. Then try to remember that they will sound totally different in your car than they do the shop. I have not personally heard any in the 8, but Infinity is probably popular for a reason.

Roxie79

I'm glad I found some others with issues on the audio system. My rx-8 has the Bose speakers installed.. Bose is supposedly a good name, but the quality in the rx-8 is not there, not to mention the lack of bass. Recently, my driver's door speaker has been crackling (and no, I don't push the system to the limits as it's not worth it for what's there), and the power window seems to "bump" into place... not sure if the two are related, but we'll see if mazda honors their warrantee to see what's going on.

forbidden

Bose, better sound through marketing...... it is far from a good name when it comes to audio.

Nopstnz8

iTrader: (6)

Is there a Harmon Kardon kit available for the 8? If so, do anyone know if it is good and how much is it?

firebirdude

iTrader: (3)

Didn't read all the previous posts....

but I used the Audiocontrol LC6i for awhile. Tapped before the bose amp. Worked awesome. I was very happy with every aspect of the setup.

Tigerfootball

i actually use the Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.1 but I also replaced EVERYTHING. all three factory amps are sitting in a box under my bed. The only problem I had was bad engine whine, but when switched to control the volume through the 3Sixty remote, crystal clear sound.

romancetech

trying to install complete bose system but have no pigtails for head unit or amps
this for my sixteen yr old we put the seats and console in his nissan pickup but the scap yard guy wont let us cut the harness. i'm looking for a pin diag. for hu door amps and rear deck amp any help would make my kid a happy camper