tomf

I have begun an install in my '06 with BASE audio.

I have a few questions from anyone who has done any of the following:

• removed that diagonal metal beam behind each back seat to get a larger opening into the trunk (my sub box will not fit in through the actual trunk opening). This would be easiest for me because then I don't need to replace any of the equipment I pulled out of my old car.
  
  
• tapped into speaker wiring somewhere and used an amp with speaker level inputs- everyone seems to push line converters, but my 4 channel amp DOES have 'high level' inputs so I figure I might as well use them.
  
  I guess there are two options:
  • run two speaker wires from the trunk to each speaker. Connect one to the factory harness (HU speaker output) and the other to the amp (high level input). Connect the other to the speaker and the amp's output.
  • wire speakers normally to amp output. Make a harness to steal the audio outputs from the back of the HU (buying MA03B & MA03RB and basically making a passthrough for all but the audio signals), then running them through the center console to the trunk for the amp high level inputs.
  
  not sure which is better (or even easier).
  
  
• Finally, I have 2 amps and a sub box that I wouldn't mind consolidating into one unit (for example the basslink + 4 channel expansion module see crutchfield link)
  for $400 (or less if I look on ebay) you get a 250W sub amp, 10" speaker, and 200W 4 channel amp (4x50W) all in a 15"x15"x10" enclosure.

If anyone has any better ideas or experience with these ideas please comment!

MrWigggles

The diagonal beam is a structural member of the car. Removing it should require some sort of torch cutter. Then you would need to weld it back in after you were done. In other words, use a different sub box.

Your amp should handle speaker level inputs correctly from the BASE radio. So, yes you don't need a LOC. I do not how much equalization the BASE HU uses. If it uses a lot of EQ then you might need to use a product like Cleansweeop.

Your last question (or should I say comment) doesn't really make sense. Why do want everything to be in one 15" X 15" X 10" enclosure? What's the point?

-Mr. Wigggles

tomf

I was considering the basslink mainly to save space, and some wiring. I may not have explained that properly, so here's the situation:

My current sub box (which only houses a single 10") is not going in the trunk (thank you for that advice). Also, my current sub amp does not have speaker level inputs. My 4 channel amp does, so I can wire the speakers to that without any equipment changes.

To get my old equipment working, I'd have to buy a new box and a LOC (or buy a mono amp with high-level inputs), move the speaker to the new box and install my two old amps. this is probably the cheapest, but I'll still have 2 amps, a sub box, a LOC, and some extra wiring (connecting the HU outputs to the LOC, then the sub amp, then the sub, and also the remote turn on). this would probably cost $100-$200.

Another option is to spend probably $300 and get the basslink thing where all I need to do is connect my 4 speaker level HU output leads to the inputs, 4 speakers to the outputs and power/ground. They claim the remote turn on is unnecessary if you're using high level inputs.

I realize most peoples reaction here is going to be buy the new box and use your speaker/amp combo because it will sound better. In my opinion the advantage of the minimally invasive basslink would be worth it. as long as it doesn't sound like crap.

hopefully that clears up that confusion.
any comment on locations of tapping the HU outputs?

tomf

although after rereading your question about the 15x15x10 enclosure I think what you might have been implying is that having, for example, a ~1 cu.ft. box with an amp mounted on either side might be the same size or even smaller

jstkilntim

If you are coming from a decent 10" w/ an amp and enclosure to match it, I doubt you will be satisfied w/ the Infinity. You will probably be better off w/ a new box. Depending if you want sealed or ported, most 10" only require about .65cf to .75cf (sealed) so you can build a very small box that takes up little room. If you are wanting to stay w/ a single 10", I thought it would be cool to buy the "eBay Box", as people are calling it, by ZEnclosures, then having them only cut a hole for 1 10" and cut a door in the other side for hidden storage.

Is it possible that your 4 channel has a pre-out that you can run to your other amp?

forbidden

The diagonal members on each side of the trunk unbolt with a 10mm IIRC, 3 on the top and 3 on the bottom of each. Take out the rear seat for access to the bolts. These supports must be reinstalled aftre your box is in the vehicle.

Most built in high level type inputs are not designed to take a high power input signal, thus the need for a good outboard LOC with a adjustable level control.

tomf

MrWigggles: "The diagonal beam is a structural member of the car. Removing it should require some sort of torch cutter. Then you would need to weld it back in after you were done. In other words, use a different sub box."
forbidden: "The diagonal members on each side of the trunk unbolt with a 10mm IIRC, 3 on the top and 3 on the bottom of each. Take out the rear seat for access to the bolts. These supports must be reinstalled aftre your box is in the vehicle."

nice. but either way I think I'll pass on removing them.

MrWigggles: "Your amp should handle speaker level inputs correctly from the BASE radio. So, yes you don't need a LOC."
forbidden: "Most built in high level type inputs are not designed to take a high power input signal, thus the need for a good outboard LOC with a adjustable level control."

looks like i'm going to prove one of you wrong the hard way no offense forbidden but I hope its you. because then i'll still have a working amp.

I do like that Zenclosures box a lot, so it's a possibility.

and no, I checked my amp and there's no preamp outs. Thinking about that, though, preamp outs in that case might actually be high-level anyway because it should be an unmodified (pre-amplifier) signal?

So maybe a 2-channel LOC run off the rear speakers into my sub amp might be my best bet.
or a 4 channel LOC and use all RCA's anyway. decisions, decisions...

thanks for suggestions

tournapart

iTrader: (1)

soooo

did you ever figure out if just splicing into the rear channels for your amp was good enough or did you end up using a LOC?

bza412

So anybody have the answer to the question of where to splice into the speakers, the rear or behind the headunit? I have a RCA line converter myself that I'm trying to install. After seeing a lot of people posting about splicing into the rear speakers I took a look at it yesterday only to find the same speaker wires in the rear two speakers as the wires that connect my sub to my amp. Where is the splicing to be done? or is my RCA converter not needed? ahh somebody please help me too! lol. Sorry if I seem clueless, afterall i did my first install on my first car, a accord coupe; a car thats more simple-minded haha.

tournapart

iTrader: (1)

ok so, if you amp has a line level input then you can just use a spliced line off of one of your rear channels, although some complain that it doesnt sound as good (mostly guys with BOSE) as a nice LOC(line out converter/or RCA converter), it is eaiser and cheaper to do.

I am in the same boat, I have never put a sub in and retained the stock head unit I always had an aftermarket that always had the preamp outs or subwoofer outs

if it seems confusing ill tell you how im going to do my setup

so I'm getting all my technical parts from http://www.onlinecarstereo.com

my amp has a line level input so im going to try that first, and if I dont like it I will put in a LOC

Another nifty thing i found was a Converter that turns a regular speaker signal into the 12v on signal i need for the remote turn on so im going to splice off one rear speaker for that and one rear speaker for the amp, I have a mono amp

Im planning on running the power probably on the drivers side, im hoping to beable to snake the power wire around the creases of the backseats with a coat hanger and if i cant get it that way then Ill run it through the center console, the idea is to NOT have to take the rear seats out

so all in all

One speaker = Remote

One speaker = Input

and the power wire is the only thing i have to run, you can run the power wire on the passenger side too, but you have to drill a hold where as on the driverside theres a grommet so you can pass the power wire through

I am also running a Alpine MRP-M450 amp 400w at 2 ohms with a single Alpine SWS-1242(12 inch) its a dual 4ohm voice coil that i have bridged to 2 ohms all in a sealed box, should hit clean

Pretty soon im going to be doing alpine component 5x7's in the front and alpine 6x9's in the back with a 4 channel alpine amp, that should be fun

anyways if you have any questions fell free to PM me

jstkilntim

Just a couple of comments from the peanut gallery....

First of all, I am assuming you mean that you will be trying to use your speaker level inputs prior to using a LOC. Do not try using an amplified signal to the line leve input. You could mess up your equipment, and it will probably sound like azz anyways.

Second, you should use a left & right signal for your amp or you will lose a lot of bass.

Third, taking the rear seats out is EASY. I use a cordless impact and can lilterally have both of them out in about a minute. So, using a ratchet, you can probably do one in less than 2 minutes. You won't even have to take the seat back all the way out. Just remove 1 bolt and you can pull it out enough to run the wire. Don't F-up your seat with a coat hanger, it will probably take you longer anyway.

Fourth, I wouldn't recommend running anything through the center console without removing it. There are a lot of sharp brackets in there that will eat up wire insulation.

tournapart

iTrader: (1)

Yes im using the line level input before trying a LOC

I kinda figured the only people having this weak/shitty bass problem were the ones with the bose systems trying to use a line AFTER the bose amp instead of before the amp

Im using a mono amp for this setup, considering it only handles one input channel for the line level input Im pretty sure all i need is one, but Ive never used a mono amp for a sub setup before so I may be wrong, and it also does have both channels available for the RCA preamps

Lastly, Im always really careful when running wires, chances are im too lazy to run it through the center console anyways, but we'll see

Do you know if theres a good write up on taking the back seats out?

Have you had any experience with the converter that turns a regular speaker signal into a 12v remote signal? I dont want to waste my money on it if they suck


thanks

jstkilntim

Line level inputs are the RCA inputs. Speaker level inputs will accept speaker wires. A mono amp (almost ?) always accepts left and right inputs, hence the 2 RCA jacks. I have seen signal processors, head units etc with a single channel sub out, and even though there may be some, I have never personally seen an amp w/ single input.

Using the signal sense turn on is pretty cut & dry. Yes, they work.

Removing the rear seats:
1. Pull up (hard) on front of *** portion of seat to remove seat from plastic clips.
2. Use (I think it was 11 or 12mm) socket to remove 2 bolts from bottom portion of seat back.
3. Remove seatbelt from seat back and lift seat back straight up to remove from plastic clips.
4. Done

tournapart

iTrader: (1)

thanks, I appreciate your input

I may be bugging you later if thats ok

im running a 400watt amp and i know that the OEM battery is pretty weak, and the alternator is pretty taxed so im going to run a cap, I dont want to spend alot on one considering the low wattage the amp is, but what do you recommend, im looking to get a 1 farad with a digital display, Im basically just trying to get a suggestion based on experiance


and also if i wanted to add another 4 channel amp later I want a cap that could also handle that

I want to add a 4 channel alpine, some 5x7 alpine R components in the front and alpine R 6x9's in the rear, eventually

as you can tell i like alpine alot

thanks

WikkedOne

It's nice to see more Alpine guys around here.... I haven't heard from him in a while but check out Mstyles This guys has one of the best Alpine setups I've ever seen..

tournapart

iTrader: (1)

I wouldnt say that Alpine is the best sound, because they arent

But you will never get better sound for the price, and they have the most attractive headunits and speakers IMO

Im more of a product loyalist and ive used nothing but alpine since my first experiance with them, they're speakers have clean, crisp sound with nice lows and highs, and they last a LONG time

MSTYLES

GO ALPINE!!!!

The range on the alpine speakers are amazing. If you know how to set them up correctly then they are the best for the $$$$$$$$$$$$

tournapart

iTrader: (1)

I found a really decent 2 channel LOC that handles up to 60w per channel and has the remote turn on signal built in

it was 40 bucks shipped, ill reply on here about its quality when i hook it up, if it works good ill link it

Alterego667

The Best I have seen yet for the best bang for a buck. I purchased a Speaker Box off the guy on Ebay. If fits and sounds the best i have seen yet... The box fits perfectly but you can not mount the amp behind it or on the sides or top of it...

Issue solution. I unscrewed my Middle cubby hole plastic piece backing off of the piece that is between the 2 back seats... Once i took of the storage area off I cut it the middle out off with my soldering gun cutter tool. Then i mounted the bottom and the top of the piece back on. There are 8 screws holding it together. I screwed the Hinge part on and the bottom part on... this makes it so you can put an amp right behind the plastic cubby hole that leads to the trunk.

I then cut out a little bit for room of my amp to slide down in the hole with precut supports holding the amp up in place. Once the amp fit in the hole it slid down behind the middle consol wich was not good. That is why i had to make a wooden block piece to set the amp on... "Why Wood" no scratch and no heat or electricity can run threw it...

I then put 2 eye bolts into the box with harware to hold it to the frame of the car. I can tighten it up so the box can not be pulled out from the trunk for theft purposes...

Once i found the right amp that would fit, i ran all wires so it is not visible from any direction. behind seats and so forth. I spliced into the 2 rear speaker wires and made then RCA or regular for the high inputs.
I tried and tried to put my other box in the car and had so many issues. I brain stormed this out and finally did a custom perfect job for me...

Why did I cut the middle plastic cuby hole... It looks great with the amp in between the seats but we need to be careful and leave our stuff showing when not present. I have had to many stolen systems... Now that piece fits perfectly over the amp and does not compromise the sound one bit...

Brian

tournapart

iTrader: (1)

Heres my setup, only half done, just need to run wires

Alterego667

that looks nice... here is how i mounted the box so i wouldnt slide around into the trunk or get ripped out...

2 eye bolts and some hardware... Works great and makes the box snug, it will not budge...

tournapart

iTrader: (1)

thats a really good idea, ill have to steal that one from you

ill probably end up blowing the S type and have to upgrade to an R type but i just really like how they look with the stainless steel cone

Alterego667

yes you will be sounding really nice with any Alpine... Are you having any luck with the wiring job... We found easier ways to run the wiring from manual trans to Automatic trans... Then we made the speaker wire turn into RCA wire.