Shocka

through my research i have heard that VGA moniters display a computer output ALOT better. Also looking at the specs VGA supports higher resolution which is important if using a navigation

eXentric

That is actually a tremendous understatement. Composite signals were never intended to reproduce text the size your computer generates. Small text in web browsers and fine lines in navigation software will be absolutely TERRIBLE on a non-VGA display. Text will be unreadable unless it is like 24 point.

If you want to get an idea and have a computer with a composite out (or even SVideo), set your computers display to 800 x 600 and hook it up to your TV. This will give you an idea, but the LCD will probably look even worse then this due to the way the LCD upsamples the low-res composite or SVIDEO signal.

Trust me, if your serious at all about any detail on your computer output, do NOT choose a standard 'TV' display.

KaRetlich

Excentric,

Wow, this is a great idea and I thank you for all the work your doing.

One question I have is how high do you expect the display you selected to be sticking up above the dash? The concern I have is that because of the angle of the 1DIN unit, and the fact that the display comes out and rises above the unit, I am concerneded that the display may really cut visibility? Any thoughts?

On placement of the PC Unit. Have you looked at or considered the "storage box" between the rear seats? I was looking at the Xenarc MP-SC6 PC. This unit could easily be installed into this box. My plan would be to wire a USB port to the glovebox and install a USB DVD Rom here. THis would allow the DVD on the PC box to always contain the Navi CD.

I am interested in one of these units. It looks like you have the initial buyers lined up, but if another will help, PM me.

Kevin

eXentric

I personally plan to purchase one of these. Its a DC-DC power supply that senses your ignition and automatically puts your PC into and out of Suspend or Hibernation. It's a great device, but it's a little on the costly side.

According to DigitalWW, the display will stick 3" above the 1-DIN slot. The 1-DIN slot will probably rise about 1-2" above the dash. So at most it should take about 5" inches away from my view of the road (and about 7" wide).

I already held something about the same size in roughly the same position as I drove down the freeway. It didn't bother me in the slightest. Also, the display can be retracted into the dash if it bothers you while you're driving. Keep in mind that in many states it is illegal to have a display in the drivers viewable area if the display does not contain either navigation data or guages that pertain to the vehicle. (I don't know the exact rules.)

I hope you're not referring to the little storage area in the center console. I'm assuming you mean the pass-through area into the trunk. I'm already using that space for other purposes.

Currently I'm thinking about putting the PC either under the passenger seat or maybe paying someone to figure out a way to mount it underneith my glove box. My only other choice really is the trunk and between my speakers rattling it to death and the Houston heat, I don't really think that's a viable solution. Besides, a VGA run of that lenght would really destroy my video signal to such a nice display.

That is a nice device. I do need 3D video and I do need at least dual PC Card slots (or one GPS, one for WiFi). If I could get WiFi on board or one PC Card and One PCI, that would work too. I haven't fully decided on this yet. I may just use my laptop for a while... We can talk more about this through PM or another thread.

Yes, I've already got my minimum buyers lined up (and a few on top of that). But there's still room for a few more buyers on this first order. If anyone is interested, you can PM me for details.

eXe

Japan8

Would it be possible to get a modded version of this in the future? By modded I mean that the opening only needs to hold a slimline slot-in DVD drive. Would this change drive up the price?

rotarygod

It would either be an entirely different mold which would require much more work or it would be the same shape piece with a slimmer slot cut out. That is the easiest option.

Japan8

I see... cool. That's about what I figured. Well I won't know if it's necessary until I get around to getting my own 8... so this is just speculation anyway...

eXentric

Just trying to keep everyone updated. I have a couple of pictures to share. They are both of the first-pass mold. This mold doesn't look like much, but it will only be used once to reproduce the exact original piece.

After that piece is molded, they will cut a hole in it and make the 1-DIN piece that slides up into that hole. We can then put the whole thing in my dash and adjust it till we get the angle just right.

After marking the angle of the insert and molding them together as one piece, the whole thing will be cast as the final mold (which can then be reproduced indeffinately).

eXentric

Mold Phase 1

eXentric

With the original piece in place.

eXentric

It looks kinda messy, but that's actually hemp fiber in there. It makes the mold significantly stronger. I'll post more as things move along.

Japan8

You know... I see a slight problem. That piece has an opening for the center speaker if you have the Bose system. What happens if you DON'T have the Bose system and thus no center speaker...

eXentric

Hmmm. That is a slight problem. I wasn't aware that the non-Bose system did not have a center speaker. Then, for non-Bose cars, is the dash one completely solid piece? Or is there a grill with nothing underneith it? Or maybe is there a solid plastic piece that snaps in there to make it appear as one solid piece? Can a non-Bose owner please check this and let me know?

I guess what COULD be done is have another fiberglass insert made that would cover up that area if you don't have the original grill. I'll have to talk to Twisted about that. I don't have any idea what it would cost.

If you're one of the people that has already sent your pre-payment and you do NOT have a center speaker grill, please PM me. I hope the people that have alredy ordered all have Bose. If not, I'll have to see what I can come up with.

Japan8

Sorry to have "rained on your parade"... but better to have caught this now than later when people are installing!

EstonRX

Good catch Japan8.

(edit)Oh yeah, before everybody runs out to check their dash, yes, the non-bose dash appears to be completely solid(/edit)

I'm in the first batch and I don't have a center speaker, so while eXentric checks with the Twisted guys to see what the price would be on molding a little pop in cover, I'm going to look at the possibility of adding a tweeter there to either try and tie in to the existing (non-BOSE) sound system or hopefully use as a stand alone speaker (dedicated to HKS CAMP alarms maybe).

I actually like the idea of having audible gauge alarms when I'm not specifically set to whichever input the HKS is on. It's not like it's impossible to start running your oil too hot when you're looking at a NAV screen (and I'm looking to produce some polished aluminum oil cooler and radiator covers/grills, so I need to watch temps closely as I'll be cutting airflow quite a bit).

I just don't know if there would have to be some receiver in between the HKS CAMP and the speaker (I don't know sound at all, honestly). But hopefully Rick at Rick's Rotory Performance would be able to figure that part out for me, I have a feeling I'll be paying off his mortgage before long after this car electronics project gets underway.

eXentric

Yes, Japan8, I agree now is better then later. It is unfortunate though.

I'll call them later today (I'm on my way out the door to work).

Eston, I like your idea. But, what would you do about a grill cover? Fabricate something out of fabric and wood perhaps?

I'll post back in a couple of hours.

bkulleo

hello eXentric
i'm very interestied in changing head unit and i'm in houston as well. my question is that do i buy the unit myself and Twisted will charge $150 to install it? what if i don't want the screen thngy ,can they install just cd and radio unit as well? either way i'm very interested and let me know if you have 4 people already
thank you much
leo

eXentric

Leo,

The piece is a replacement piece for your dash (see the photos earlier in this thread). The $150 covers the price of the replacement piece, it does not cover any installation.

Installing the piece shouldn't be hard, but that $150 does not include any installation of the dash piece or any eletronics. You would need to pay someone else to install that for you if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself.

I bet that Twisted would be happy to have you pay them to do it for you, but it might be a little more costly then to go someplace that only does car stereo installs. I can certanly give you their phone number if you'd like to call them and get a quote.

One thing though, there has been no wiring harness made for replacing the stock head unit yet. This would mean that you would have to splice the wires manually. And if you have the Bose setup, there may be even more pitfalls. That's one of the reasons that most of us are sticking with the stock head unit and adding other pieces on to it.

Let me know if you have any other questions. Might be best to PM me about it though.

eXe

EstonRX

I guess the real question is are there any differences between the two dash pieces other than the speaker hole.

If there are not, then I'm strongly considering the stand alone center speaker idea. With a speaker covering up that hole, there would be nothing else to worry about.

eXentric

I doubt that there would be differences between the two other then the hole. The hole is not exactly rectangular. I'm sure you could make your own grill to match it using a carvable wood (like balsa) or molding clay or any other method. I haven't been able to speak with Twisted yet today, but I am still trying. I think a matching fiberglass insert would look the best (if you aren't going with the speaker like Eston is considering).

I was contacted by one of the board administrators today regarding this thread. I guess I've pushed the bounds a little too far. I cannot discuss pricing anymore in the thread. If you have any interest, you'll have to contact me directly.

Just so it's clear, I am not making ANY profit off of this piece at all. The whole reason I started this thread was in hopes of getting three more individuals interested in the same piece as I was so that I didn't have to sport a huge bill to get mine made.

After my piece is complete, I do not plan to have anymore involvement in this project. If others are still interested in this piece at a later time, I can probably put you in touch with Twisted. But if Twisted wants to sell this piece officially on this forum, they will need to pay the RX8 Club advertising fees.

eXentric

Well, guys, the word is in. Unfortunately, Twisted will not be offering a fiberglass insert. Their official reason is that they cannot make enough profit off the piece to warrant the time required to make it. After tonight, I completely understand (I'll explain in a bit).

After talking to Twisted, I contacted my local Mazda dealer and asked for the parts center. The rep was finally able to locate the part under RX8 -> Bose -> No Nav. Unfortunately, the speaker grill is a whopping $58. So, the good news is that the non-Bose owners can get the grill, the bad news is that it's freaken expensive.

After hanging up with Mazda, I decided to take a detour on my way home. Some of you saw the pin header I made before with modeling clay, well, I decided to try my luck with my own grill. Now, I have my grill mind you, but I wanted to see what it would take. I documented the entire process and I'll post pictures. It didn't turn out quite as well as I'd hoped, but it turned out better then I thought it might. Someone with a bit more skill (and more time to invest then I did just to prove a concept) could probably do a much better job. But, none the less, here goes:

eXentric

First I lined the original dash piece with tape. This is so I could remove the modling clay easily later. My first several attempts included non-stick spray and other antics --- none of which were successful.

eXentric

Next I filled in the area with the clay. On my first attempt I just tried to use my fingers to smooth the mold out. This didn't work out so well because I ended up with a bulge in the middle. On my second attempt, I used a spackle tool to smooth over the top of the clay. The second attempt turned out much better.

After the clay was completely formed, I threw the whole piece (dash included) in the freezer for about 1/2 hour. This caused the mold to harden up enought that pulling the tape off the dash piece didn't distort the clay.

Next, I threw it in the oven for 25 minutes.

eXentric

After it came out of the oven, I let it cool for a good half hour. Then I used a counter-sink bit (the same kind used in sheet rocking) to drill out some counter-sinked holes. I put screws through the holes and tapped them off into some drywall sinks. The purpose of all of this is to make the pice drop down into the existing holes in the dash piece and keep it from sliding around.