kellybrf

iTrader: (2)

i just got some 15 led 7440 bulbs for my rear blinkers and they dont appear to have enough resistance as my signal is blinking at triple speed. is there anything i can do to fix this?

mikeb

this happened to me
try to put the bulb in the opposite way or it may not be in all the way

also it may be single filament instead of dual

kellybrf

iTrader: (2)

it is a single filament (7440) which the blinkers need to be, only the brake lights (7443) are dual. it apparently needs load equalizers, which i dont want to mess with dammit!

mod...can you please move this to the tech garage, i didnt mean for it to go in the dyi

mikeb

did you get them from autoillumation.com or whatever

I returned those

ChuckRX8

There you have it.
Another Autolumination.com failure!

truemagellen

that is funny same thing happened to me TODAY! got mine from autolumination last night...replacing the front turn signal blinkers with 15led ones (7440) now it is blinking triple time

the system thinks I have a dead bulb but the power needs of the bulb are just lower...bummer HELP!

Ajax

What is the power draw of the new bulb vs the old bulb?
You could always build in some equivalent resistance using plain resistors assuming the signal is DC (and it had better be DC otherwise those diodes would freak out).

truemagellen

I'd love to fix it just like whatever the heck you wrote but I'm no engineer...you want to fix it for me :p

Ajax

I dont have the part so I cant take the measurements. I'm sure the power requirements are in a PDF or website somewhere. I'd need to know how much current and voltage those leds were drawing when running or flat out wattage and voltage (P=IV or P=I^2R or P=V^2/R) and the same for the stock signals. From there, you modify the R in the second or third equation to get what you need. Hell, you could put a potentiometer in there and dial up the resistance and get exactly the delay you wanted.

It's a pretty simple circuit though. It's basically 2 resistors in series and a single voltage source. One resistor is your LED matrix (yes, it acts as a resistor) and the second is your potentiometer. At V = .7 volts (might be .5, but most small diodes are .7), all of your LEDs will come on as they're in parallel. Now I guess the car is looking for a specific power draw before it shuts off the lights. It's either getting that too early (because the lights are drawing too much power) or it's doing a different calculation. It really depends on the input signal but that you can measure with an oscope or fluke meter.

Blah blah blah.

Uhh. Somebody take the measurements and I'll help out as I can.

kellybrf

iTrader: (2)

yeah, i did get them from there and emailed him about the problem. basically, we need load distributers...http://autolumination.com/installation.html

mike, was he cool about the return b/c thats what i was thinking of doing. i dont really care about it that much to install those

D MENAC 7

Look Chucky boy, knock it off blasting autolumination, it's not their fault for everything. Do you have stock in another manufacturer of automobile lamps? This is really getting old fast.

Every LED Lamp, NO MATTER WHAT THE BRAND, will blink fast as they are not incadescents and there needs to be a load on the system to make them blink slow. It is a built in system of today's automobiles to blink fast if one of the turn signals go out and the only way the system can tell is if there is not a load at the rear or front. They do this to alert you that one of the lamps is burned out. If you turn on your hazards, they will all blink slowly because that is not built into the system that way.

The load device that autolumination sells takes about 5 minutes per light to install as it is only an add on by way of a wire clamp with sharp blades that snaps in place to complete the circuit.

truemagellen

I'm purchasing the load equalizers as you speak (err type I mean)