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For over an hour today I ran tests designed to show the performance enhancement capable from the can-zoomer ECU.
Car1 has canzoomer 1.1 and the M flash. Sport Model. MazdaSpeed ground effects & wing running on 1/4 tank of gas. driver 160 lbs.
Car2 has nothing base model 6MT M flash. 1/2 tank of gas and 200 lbs of occupants.
Houston TX close to sea level 75 deg 60% humidity.
The first set of tests we ran were rolling in 2nd gear at 15 mph. When the hand dropped we went to redline ending the test at around 62 mph.
The second tests we ran were in thrid gear at 30mph pulling till red line or a tad above 90 mph.
When the sport model had traction control on the races were a virtual tie. With traction control off he was able to pull away 1/2 a car length starting at around 6k. This was true for both 2nd and 3rd gear.
We ran 10-15 test runs.
The canzoomer does have a slightly rougher idle.
I will let you all express your opinion but it seems to me that the M-flash has lessened this bang for the buck upgrade.
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I don't need a faster car just less people on the road.
At least somewhat controlled experimentation is what we've needed for so long, and this is exactly what rev-2-9k has done. Awesome job.
rev-2-9k, I want to suggest that, in order to reinforce your findings, you and the other driver ALSO switch cars for a number of runs (everything done on the same day, of course). Also, it would be kind of important that you take out the Canzoomer Stage 1 from one car and install it in the other car (again, both drivers driving both cars). These two are simple controls that would account for driver and inherent car differences. IF the cars perform consistently (i.e., the car with the Stage 1 always has about the same distance lead) regardless of who is driving, then you have a fairly sound, systematic difference, which is what we all want.
Originally posted by PhineasFellOff I want to suggest that, in order to reinforce your findings, you and the other driver ALSO switch cars for a number of runs
They only did WOT gear runs (no shifting), so driver has nothing to do with it. They both can smash on the pedal exactly the same.
ok now let me see if i have this right.
1 .canzoomer car roughly 50lbs lighter and with tsc engaged then is dead even with un canzoomer car???
2. canzoomer car with tsc system disengaged and approx 50lbs light pulls approx 1/2 car lenght???
Damn, doesnt seem like much does it?
Something just doesnt seem right here. Ive put a cz 1.1 in . Have the L flash and a RB catback. My butt dyno tells me there is a noticeable change. No facts to back it up.
Good stuff man keep it up. This is sure a hard car to modify.
I would say both cars weighed similiar, as he had a MS body kit. It was very close either way as neither car was weighed.
With tsc on the cars were very even. I found it odd that it would make the car slower in this situation because no wheel spin or cornering. I would actually get like an 1/8 of a car on him early in the run and then he would make it up at the top end.
These pulls are very short. In a real race a good driver would try to keep the rev's up so the car would have a more noticable advantage. But we wanted to keep the driver skill out of it and see when the power kicked in.
Neither of has had any exhaust/intake mod's. I am begining to think that the MS fly-wheel may be in the first round of upgrades.
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I don't need a faster car just less people on the road.
Originally posted by adrian-1 They only did WOT gear runs (no shifting), so driver has nothing to do with it. They both can smash on the pedal exactly the same.
Oh, I see. But they should STILL do the runs with the Stage 1 swapped.
rev-2-9k
thanks for the futher clarification. Since weight is even this makes a little more sense, and the fact it was so short of a run. CZ's unit from what I understand does nothing til 5-6k so your test engaged it for only a short period. Still good work man! I think you are hitting on something with this dsc/traction control set up. I wished mazda had offered it separatly so I could have gotten my sunroof and bose stereo without it. I believe that it may a big issue influencing ecu mods. I,m just learning the "new" types mods on these new cars. As my name implies I'm used to the "big block,muscle car" days. As far as the flywheel, I'm with ya man. I just question how much of a street driveabliity issue it will be. Its a good deal of work and I would like to see some data on actual gain before I go that route. It wouldn't affect warrenty would it?
Good thread!
olddragger (with bifocals)
Originally posted by PhineasFellOff Oh, I see. But they should STILL do the runs with the Stage 1 swapped.
Actually I was thinking I should have run with CZ unit ON/OFF for comparison. Not sure if this is possible though because I barely know the other guy, and I will be in Tampa, Pensacola and Moscow over the next month.
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I don't need a faster car just less people on the road.
Originally posted by olddragger rev-2-9k
As far as the flywheel, I'm with ya man. I just question how much of a street driveabliity issue it will be. Its a good deal of work and I would like to see some data on actual gain before I go that route. It wouldn't affect warrenty would it?
Good thread!
olddragger (with bifocals)
Well the MS fly wheel is covered under warranty if the installation is done at a Mazda dealership. I think it is a good match for an ECU upgrade that give more HP at high rev's.
Given the # of ECU mods that appear to be coming out shortly, I will prob wait. I have wanted to get more of a stage 2 setup any way but have seen NO data on that.
My goal is a 300 hp (fly-wheel) car with out FAI. I am not sure how I can verify that other than I want low 5's for 0-60 and 13 sec 1/4's, and I will trust certain names in the industry.
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I don't need a faster car just less people on the road.
I don't see what the problem is then. At 3rd gear, you'll be hitting upwards of 80 and should test the whole powerband of the car. You could go as far as hitting 9000 rpm and holding it a few seconds to see if you pull away too.
The car stats are on paper are meaningless if the real world tests don't reflect any change
Originally posted by JasonHamilton duh. Just reread your original post.
You could go as far as hitting 9000 rpm and holding it a few seconds to see if you pull away too.
Yeah which was why we agreed to mash till red line. If we would have held at 8500-9000 a little more power could have been squeezed out by a good driver. But we wanted no driving skill and anyone can stand on the gas pedal with little variance.
I have hit 97 in 3rd driving like that. I think most of these I pulled power right at 90 mph or when I heard the beep.
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I don't need a faster car just less people on the road.
rev-2-9k,
Moscow? Damn man watch your butt! World is not exactly friendly to americans right now. With my mods (cz1.1 and rb catback) I "think" im pulling approx 250 and I agree with ya that the car needs a little more. 300-325 would be nice. I just don't see how we will get that without FI at this point. Streetability of stage 2 is razor thin from what I understand. Thanks about the flywheel info.I'm going to keep an eye on that also.
With a better set of springs and bars, little better tire and 325 hp this car would rock! Hard to wait isnt it?
olddragger
Originally posted by JasonHamilton duh. Just reread your original post.
I don't see what the problem is then. At 3rd gear, you'll be hitting upwards of 80 and should test the whole powerband of the car. You could go as far as hitting 9000 rpm and holding it a few seconds to see if you pull away too.
The car stats are on paper are meaningless if the real world tests don't reflect any change
If both cars would hold their revs at 9000 rpms in 3rd gear neither would pull away no matter how much more power one would have over the other. The engine is mechanically linked to the wheels through the tranny which means the engine speed in a gear WILL ALWAYS BE THE SAME MPH unless your tires are spinning or you have the worlds shittiest clutch...
Originally posted by pr0ber If both cars would hold their revs at 9000 rpms in 3rd gear neither would pull away no matter how much more power one would have over the other. The engine is mechanically linked to the wheels through the tranny which means the engine speed in a gear WILL ALWAYS BE THE SAME MPH unless your tires are spinning or you have the worlds shittiest clutch...
oh my
When u just mash your pedal you hit red line at 89 or so. If you hold the pedal for just a split sec at 9k you can get up to 97. This would be the quickest way to run a 1/4 with this car, rather than shifting to 4th and being back at 6k.
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I don't need a faster car just less people on the road.
Originally posted by rev-2-9k When u just mash your pedal you hit red line at 89 or so. If you hold the pedal for just a split sec at 9k you can get up to 97. This would be the quickest way to run a 1/4 with this car, rather than shifting to 4th and being back at 6k.
I understand that, but the poster I was replying to was trying to say (at least it seems to me) that if the two cars would hold their cars at 9000 rpms, one would start to pull away because it has more peak power which is totally false...
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