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Still Blinking engine light

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Old 08-05-2010, 05:19 PM
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Unhappy Still Blinking engine light

i have taken much advise from other users on the forum. such as coils, plugs, and wires. they are all replaced, to no avail it still blinks. also, i have reset the ESP (essentric shaft position) censor, and done the brake 20x and still the light blinks... i have also had a friend connect a computer to it to shut the light off thinking it was just on till it was reset. and it came back. a code P0302 misfire cylinder 2 had appeared. but i feel NO misfire. and the car starts, hot or cold, runs perfectly and has no obv. problems.

i need help. i dont want to go through another motor. i just had this on put in and i dont get whats going on.. any help or opinions would be appreciated. i just want the car fixed.
Old 08-05-2010, 05:31 PM
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injectors? fuel pump?
try run some seafoam in the gas tank.
Old 08-05-2010, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by jasonrxeight
injectors? fuel pump?
try run some seafoam in the gas tank.
i ran seafoam in it two days ago and nothing changed. i thought it was an injector too but i have no clue at this point.
Old 08-05-2010, 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 00RM125
i have taken much advise from other users on the forum. such as coils, plugs, and wires. they are all replaced, to no avail it still blinks.

Because you're listening to the wrong people and it's typical for them to be the first responders to threads like these. You can just about always tell who they are because they snap off answers without asking questions.

Case in point ....
Old 08-05-2010, 08:56 PM
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how r u helping then?....and they dont need to ask questions cause i have just about everything they need to know in the explanation up there. so them tryin to HELP is what i need and what i appreciate. there not hurting me by trying to help.

Last edited by 00RM125; 08-05-2010 at 08:58 PM.
Old 08-05-2010, 09:28 PM
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Have you tried cleaning the eshaft sensor first, then reset the NVRAM?

With you stating there are no problems driving, makes me think it isn't something like compression, fuel injector, or intake leak.
And with the ignition components replaced, shouldn't be that... though we've seen where the plug wires could come loose or are installed wrong (leading and trailing wires swapped).
But those would normally result in some noticeable driving issues.
Old 08-05-2010, 09:45 PM
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the shaft censor is spotless, i wiped it off and unplugged it to reset it. and how would i reset the nvram? but i did the plugs and wires myself and they are right. i had pics sent to me how the wires should go and everything matches up. ive checked and double checked and even triple checked to make sure lol.
Old 08-05-2010, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 00RM125
and how would i reset the nvram?
Resetting the NVRAM is what clears the eshaft profile (AKA... the 20x brake stomp dance).

And just to clarify... you installed the NGK RE7 and RE9 plugs?
Ignition is usually a cause for misfires.
Even through you don't feel any issues driving, may not be bad to swap the plugs between the rotors and see if the code stays with #2 or if it transfers to #1.
Then swap the coils between rotors if that doesn't work.
We're just making sure that everything ignition wise is working properly.

I've thought about the cat starting to clog and producing these misfires.
Some earlier models won't even through a code for this.
But we tend to see the misfires on both (P0300).
Old 08-05-2010, 09:57 PM
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Clogged cat? hope you warranty bro
Old 08-05-2010, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by jiggawha1
Clogged cat? hope you warranty bro
I'm not totally convinced on that yet.... it was just a thought...
But the cat is covered for 8yr, 80K miles.
Old 08-05-2010, 10:14 PM
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My car did same thing, pulled code and I can't verify if it was that code or not but I recall that the code I pulled lead to misfires or a clogged catalyst. But yea mine was fully covered under warranty, hope ya get it resolved man.
Old 08-05-2010, 10:16 PM
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O btw, whenever my car did flash the light, the car went totally bonkers it terms of if its rpms and a severe surge. It did it for a few seconds then went away.
Old 08-06-2010, 11:47 AM
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i had a clogged cat once before and it had different symptoms so i know it isnt that. cause when the cat was clogged it lossed power and wouldnt even hit 5k rpm. so the cat was changed and has about 3k miles on it if that. so thats deff not it. but i changed the plugs out and they ARE the ngk re7 and re9's. but u mean put the back ones in front and front ones in back to see if that changes the code?. cause i had just replaced them all 2days ago and nothing is different. but i have also done the 20x brake stomp quite a few times. and it still wont clear it. im thinking of buying a new shaft censor and seeing how that works out even tho this one is spotless. cause i dont think its anything electrical cause all the electrical is brand new. i had a full wire harness fix when i bought the car a year ago.
Old 08-06-2010, 11:50 AM
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Power loss might not be immediate with a clogged cat fyi
Old 08-06-2010, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jiggawha1
Power loss might not be immediate with a clogged cat fyi

it might not. but last time it was. so im just sayin i dont think thats it just yet
Old 08-06-2010, 03:28 PM
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Go back to basics, I know you replaced coils/plugs/wires, make sure everything is connected properly ( I had an ignition wire that popped out once and my car seemed fine). Clean the sensors again, try cleaning the MAF although I doubt that would throw a code anyways.

Since your not losing power, I also doubt your cat is clogged (or re-clogged), however it is still a possiblity.

Disconnect the cat, take a flashlight and shine it on the inside to see if the mesh is still intact.

If all the above has been performed, then Im out lol. Ive gotten the misfire code a billion times and everytime following the above process has solved the issue. Also, after checking everything, pull the room fuse and reconnect it, this will completely reset your ECU.

Good luck.
Old 08-06-2010, 04:46 PM
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everything is connected properly. clean the censors as in the ESPS? im just gonna replace it so there is no way it will b that but i wiped it down a few times and i cant get it cleaner w/o sand blastin the bitch lol. also what is the MAF? and ill have to wait on checking the cat since i dont have a lift or anything to get me under the car. but i will try the fuse today and see where it gets me. i appreciate everyones help so far.
Old 08-06-2010, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 00RM125
everything is connected properly. clean the censors as in the ESPS? im just gonna replace it so there is no way it will b that but i wiped it down a few times and i cant get it cleaner w/o sand blastin the bitch lol. also what is the MAF? and ill have to wait on checking the cat since i dont have a lift or anything to get me under the car. but i will try the fuse today and see where it gets me. i appreciate everyones help so far.
Mass Airflow Sensor.

Its the big piece connected to the tip of your intake, you will need an allen wrench to unscrew the two little screws. Its a little light bulb looking thing, I just took a microfiber and wiped it down. I try to do it once a year since my K&N intake oil cakes on it over time which can cause idle issues or........ potentially make your car think somethings wrong

Its a long shot but an easy thing to do anyways.

Reseting the ECU is a good plan anyways, real easy.
Old 08-07-2010, 09:20 AM
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i pulled the main fuse. dont know if thats the one u meant. but didnt change anything. also wiped off that MAF and it was caked with oil. but that didnt help either. lol so i think im deff going to replace the shaft censor and see what happens......

also this is off subject but where can i get cheap interior parts for mazda? cause the dealer wants to charge me $200 for a sun visor...
Old 08-07-2010, 10:05 AM
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The room fuse is in the 2nd fuse panel that is near where your left foot sits when you are driving. Open up the driver's door, against the door frame as far forward as you can go, there is a panel there, remove it and you have access to a 2nd set of fuses. The room fuse is there.

Also, I wince as you cleaning the MAF by "wiping it off". Get a can of MAF cleaner from your local autoparts store, pull the MAF off, and hose it down ALOT. Empty the entire can if you have to, it's cheap. The MAF is very sensitive, and physically touching it can damage it. And if it was caked with oil, that is a few problems right there.

Caked with oil means it probably isn't reading right.

The fact that you have oil in your intake is also a possible cause of the misfires. Oil gets into the intake from oil overflow / backflow (there is a tube between the intake and the oil filler cap area). Oil in the intake usually causes unstable airflow, and can also gum-up/carbon-up the intake valves on the lower intake manifold (LIM). You will have to pull apart your plastic upper intake manifold (UIM) to even see some of the valves in the LIM. If these get carboned up, restricted, etc.., you can have all sorts of unpredictable and hard to pinpoint problems.

The valve that usually fails is the SSV (secondary shutter valve), and one of the primary symptoms of the SSV failure is that you get other symptoms that remain inconsistent. Misfires is certainly a viable option.

If you do pull apart your UIM to take a look, get a can of deep creep sea foam from the auto-parts store, in case there is alot of carbon on the valving. Spray it down and let it sit for a while before starting.
Old 08-07-2010, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by 00RM125
i pulled the main fuse. dont know if thats the one u meant. but didnt change anything. also wiped off that MAF and it was caked with oil. but that didnt help either. lol so i think im deff going to replace the shaft censor and see what happens......

also this is off subject but where can i get cheap interior parts for mazda? cause the dealer wants to charge me $200 for a sun visor...
RIWWP said most of what I was going to say :-)

As far as your sunvisor, I use car-part.com to find used parts for the odd stuff that breaks. It searches all the junkyards and wholesalers, I paid like $20-$30 for my sunvisor when one broke like 3 years ago. You can find that kind of thing relatively cheap if you do not mind used parts.
Old 08-08-2010, 04:56 PM
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ok ill try the car parts and ill let you kno if i have any luck in a few days with the ******* light. lmao
Old 03-16-2011, 01:16 AM
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i needed a battery and alternator! problem solved. thank you all for your help
Old 05-03-2011, 04:42 PM
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Angry This thing is a demon!!!

sooo i thought that the alternator was the problem and it wasnt =[=[ alternator is fine, they say i have a tiny tiny drain somewhere in the wires cause when the car is off its still pulling 1.12 amps... its CEL is still blinking and i still have foam in my oil even after a oil change and a lil sea-foam, and it starts fine but when i turn it off after a decent lengths drive it doesnt wanna turn back on at all, ill have to wait about 30-45 min before it will start again. it doesnt even turn over, it just does nothing at all except radio comes on. blow by sensor again? i clean everything and some users on here even say that they can just diconect the blow by sensor and it will be fine, so i tried that and it makes the car not even wanna turn on the first time when it normally has no problem....UGH im getting fed up with it now.. need it for school soon so i can commute but with how everything is going i have no way to get it on the road. i guess i still need help with this damn thing. feel free to post your opinion on what is wrong and i will check it out and tell u what happen if anything. nothing seems to be changing. if nothing works within a week or two im just taking it to mazda where they will drill me with a 12 page long bill and leave me broke. but if its what i have to do i will do it as a LAST RESORT. please help!!!!!!!
Old 05-12-2011, 03:36 PM
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You said you just had a motor put in, is there a chance the fuel injector wires are incorrectly connected?
Has it done this ever since the motor replacement?


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