Should I retune?
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Should I retune?
Jeff brought up an interesting point in his AP thread; if my current tune file is running well, why bother going through the steps of redoing it with the updated software. My car runs smoothly, but I always thought it was still somewhat rich, so I decided to go ahead and use the AP's data loging function to see. Didn't have a true method of logging before.
This is what I came up with, so is this close enough to perfect, or should I start over with the base map?
This is what I came up with, so is this close enough to perfect, or should I start over with the base map?
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perhaps you could also post your other graphs like Airflow/rpm wot in 2nd and a 3rd gear WOT...
It seems to me that you might want to retune to shift your redline down a bit since it might not be making any more power beyond a certain amount, although a dyno is needed to determine that, but you can at least see if the MAF is seeing more airflow.
It seems to me that you might want to retune to shift your redline down a bit since it might not be making any more power beyond a certain amount, although a dyno is needed to determine that, but you can at least see if the MAF is seeing more airflow.
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perhaps you could also post your other graphs like Airflow/rpm wot in 2nd and a 3rd gear WOT...
It seems to me that you might want to retune to shift your redline down a bit since it might not be making any more power beyond a certain amount, although a dyno is needed to determine that, but you can at least see if the MAF is seeing more airflow.
It seems to me that you might want to retune to shift your redline down a bit since it might not be making any more power beyond a certain amount, although a dyno is needed to determine that, but you can at least see if the MAF is seeing more airflow.
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Yea I think it's good except for the 4th @ 4200...it goes from like 14.5 to like 13.5...
As well how high is your redline?
As well based on this information it seems that (pending all other variables are the same which they might not be) that your car w/AEM CAI and catback flows more air (more g/s) where you are at than my logs @3500 ft with a stock box, K&N filter and a catless midpipe.
As well how high is your redline?
As well based on this information it seems that (pending all other variables are the same which they might not be) that your car w/AEM CAI and catback flows more air (more g/s) where you are at than my logs @3500 ft with a stock box, K&N filter and a catless midpipe.
Last edited by Daemos; 12-12-2008 at 10:46 AM.
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Yea I think it's good except for the 4th @ 4200...it goes from like 14.5 to like 13.5...
As well how high is your redline?
As well based on this information it seems that (pending all other variables are the same which they might not be) that your car w/AEM CAI and catback flows more air (more g/s) where you are at than my logs @3500 ft with a stock box, K&N filter and a catless midpipe.
As well how high is your redline?
As well based on this information it seems that (pending all other variables are the same which they might not be) that your car w/AEM CAI and catback flows more air (more g/s) where you are at than my logs @3500 ft with a stock box, K&N filter and a catless midpipe.
Redline is 9500rpm, keeps me from having to go to 3rd autocrossing.
The MS/AEM CAI does definitely "appear" to be one of the best for raw airflow, all scientific thought aside. I also only have one airflow screen in it.
Last edited by Jasonawojo; 12-12-2008 at 01:01 PM.
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Yeah, I did notice that, it does the same thing in 6th above ~3700. I bet it lowers my mileage a little.
Redline is 9500rpm, keeps me from having to go to 3rd autocrossing.
The MS/AEM CAI does definitely "appear" to be one of the best for raw airflow, all scientific thought aside. I also only have one airflow screen in it.
Redline is 9500rpm, keeps me from having to go to 3rd autocrossing.
The MS/AEM CAI does definitely "appear" to be one of the best for raw airflow, all scientific thought aside. I also only have one airflow screen in it.
I wonder if it gains power though...it should since it 'sees' more air...but who knows.
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The only one I've heard of is if you tune for the MS/AEM and then you remove it and (from my understanding) put the stock box back on you lose 12 whp...but also from my understanding there is no actual dyno of one car with a tuned map on a stock intake then once again same car with a tuned map on an aftermarket intake.
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