X7rotor

iTrader: (2)

got the program...but epifan takes a bit of time to get the key from...

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Yea, unfortunately he is a one man operation and works in a different time zone so communication is tough.

nlsolja123

I got the key for mine. But I'm waiting for device string

Bob The Eskimo

It will take a few emails back and forth between you and him to get it set up initially; including you sending a dump of your ECU to him. After that you'll be ready to go. All in all, I'm quite impressed with his system. Hopefully he (and all of us) keeps working with it and increasing the supply of known maps and controls.

nlsolja123

Ok I got fully registered and setup today. I got this to mainly up my omp and delete the dtcs for now. Tuning will come down the road. How do I know what dtc does what, also how do I multiply by 10% on a full omp map?

Bob The Eskimo

Yes, simply multiply the full map by 10%. Keep in mind it works differently than the Cobb. Cobb you'd multiply by 1.10 for a 10% increase. ME you'd multiply by 110. I ended up with a 5% increase in OMP before I saw blue smoke because I premix as well.

nlsolja123

Ok thanks for that info. I'm new to this software and the simalar ones. I know I fighlight the whole map. But right click and I only see the +1 incement . What do I go to for multipl y

Bob The Eskimo

Either click on edit at the top and choose, or just hit *, /, +, or -. Take some time and look through the program. It's pretty straight forward.

nlsolja123

I found it. Thanks. Well I tried my first flash and got .27 seconds into it and got a error. Turned program and car off and now my antitheft is flashing and I can't get it to flash a Rom ....

Bob The Eskimo

that, might be bad. I've never had that problem. Do you have a stock ECU flash you can try to load?

nlsolja123

I got it to Flash a good flash, idk what was up with it. I did try to flash the stock file which didnt work. idk how it worked this time..lol.. i almost punched myself. it worked after the 4th shut down and retry.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

It's a good idea to close M/E then opening it again before attemting a flash .... Don't ask me why , after doing 100s of flashes like I have you come to learn about little oddities like that.

nlsolja123

yup that worked ^^ well Im just happy to have the increase OMP and Dtcs cleared since mazda wanted to charge me for the newest OEM flash, that the previous owner never got. I was on a 2004 Tune.

Another thing the M flash fixed was rich AFRs, im still watching all of kanes tuning videos. Should i use my AEM wideband or is the oem logged good enough? any suggested AF range i should stay in? i know the rotary prefers richer than stoich, but how much is to much?

Or should I stay away from that for the time being and add a few degrees of timing?

Bob The Eskimo

Fan speed idiosyncrasies:

I just happen to live near Pettit Racing and was talking with Cam the other day. I showed him MazdaEdit and we were talking through the mods I made when he suggested I move the fan speeds just above operating temp to keep the car cooler. I had already lowered them from stock down to 92C, but he suggested why not to 86; so I did. I monitored the temperature for a few days following that, and found temps were 186 cruising, and up to 220 at idle; too high for comfort. I found that when you set fan 1 A and B settings to the same number (hoping that fan 1 would just operate on high rather than low any time it’s running), fan 1 doesn’t turn on at all. Has anyone else seen this or was it perhaps a flash glitch that happened?

I reset the fans at F1A 86, F1B 88, and F2 91 and it works much better. Temps are now 186 at cruise, and no higher than 200 at idle.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

because the fan's logic supposed to be one lower and one higher.

when you set both to the same, it confuses the stock program logic, and creating problems.

put it this way,when a program logical error happens on a windows program, it crashes and refuse to run

but on a car's ecu that's original coded with machine code or assembly, it will run in loops, the ecu gets confused and never execute the correct logic order.

Vlaze

iTrader: (14)

Sounds...logical


Sorry, couldn't help myself

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

DIE!

nlsolja123

has anyone been able to see fuel pressure? i tried a couple pids that didn't work, i aslo tried the mazdaedit obd2 logger and mazda logger. those dint either.

on another note, on obd2 logger the actual afr is refreshed a lot faster than when im on mazda logger,,, idk why

thewird

There is no fuel pressure sensor, therefore no fuel pressure data

thewird

nlsolja123

Craps that sucks. I'm trying to determine if my fuel trims Are off due to the walboro

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

That would be extremely unlikely .

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Your tune is off because you probably have an issue with your O2 sensor (referring to the other thread you started).

nlsolja123

I'm needing a little help on the maf scaling tables. when I go into it and select my scale copy it and go to excel it's throwing up a lot of weird useless ">tr()" things in with it. What method is working to copy these values ? And also say I'm -17% from 1.2 - 3v I multiply this region by 83 correct ? Bc when I do this the numbers I get don't add up like it should when I do the math

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

If you are -17 you should be looking for the problem ............. not trying to rescale the maf as a band aid.

nlsolja123

see thats what I dont understand , I have around 100 psi on all rotor faces, car was running at -10% fuel trims and all i did was cleaned the air filter, put on the ls coils and wires and did the 20 brake stomp and now it showing -17. it runs fine, no stalling or anything same power as always.