Mazdaedit
#854
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: West Palm Beach FL
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It will take a few emails back and forth between you and him to get it set up initially; including you sending a dump of your ECU to him. After that you'll be ready to go. All in all, I'm quite impressed with his system. Hopefully he (and all of us) keeps working with it and increasing the supply of known maps and controls.
#855
Ok I got fully registered and setup today. I got this to mainly up my omp and delete the dtcs for now. Tuning will come down the road. How do I know what dtc does what, also how do I multiply by 10% on a full omp map?
#856
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Location: West Palm Beach FL
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Yes, simply multiply the full map by 10%. Keep in mind it works differently than the Cobb. Cobb you'd multiply by 1.10 for a 10% increase. ME you'd multiply by 110. I ended up with a 5% increase in OMP before I saw blue smoke because I premix as well.
#859
I found it. Thanks. Well I tried my first flash and got .27 seconds into it and got a error. Turned program and car off and now my antitheft is flashing and I can't get it to flash a Rom ....
#861
I got it to Flash a good flash, idk what was up with it. I did try to flash the stock file which didnt work. idk how it worked this time..lol.. i almost punched myself. it worked after the 4th shut down and retry.
#863
yup that worked ^^ well Im just happy to have the increase OMP and Dtcs cleared since mazda wanted to charge me for the newest OEM flash, that the previous owner never got. I was on a 2004 Tune.
Another thing the M flash fixed was rich AFRs, im still watching all of kanes tuning videos. Should i use my AEM wideband or is the oem logged good enough? any suggested AF range i should stay in? i know the rotary prefers richer than stoich, but how much is to much?
Or should I stay away from that for the time being and add a few degrees of timing?
Another thing the M flash fixed was rich AFRs, im still watching all of kanes tuning videos. Should i use my AEM wideband or is the oem logged good enough? any suggested AF range i should stay in? i know the rotary prefers richer than stoich, but how much is to much?
Or should I stay away from that for the time being and add a few degrees of timing?
#864
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Fan speed idiosyncrasies:
I just happen to live near Pettit Racing and was talking with Cam the other day. I showed him MazdaEdit and we were talking through the mods I made when he suggested I move the fan speeds just above operating temp to keep the car cooler. I had already lowered them from stock down to 92C, but he suggested why not to 86; so I did. I monitored the temperature for a few days following that, and found temps were 186 cruising, and up to 220 at idle; too high for comfort. I found that when you set fan 1 A and B settings to the same number (hoping that fan 1 would just operate on high rather than low any time it’s running), fan 1 doesn’t turn on at all. Has anyone else seen this or was it perhaps a flash glitch that happened?
I reset the fans at F1A 86, F1B 88, and F2 91 and it works much better. Temps are now 186 at cruise, and no higher than 200 at idle.
I just happen to live near Pettit Racing and was talking with Cam the other day. I showed him MazdaEdit and we were talking through the mods I made when he suggested I move the fan speeds just above operating temp to keep the car cooler. I had already lowered them from stock down to 92C, but he suggested why not to 86; so I did. I monitored the temperature for a few days following that, and found temps were 186 cruising, and up to 220 at idle; too high for comfort. I found that when you set fan 1 A and B settings to the same number (hoping that fan 1 would just operate on high rather than low any time it’s running), fan 1 doesn’t turn on at all. Has anyone else seen this or was it perhaps a flash glitch that happened?
I reset the fans at F1A 86, F1B 88, and F2 91 and it works much better. Temps are now 186 at cruise, and no higher than 200 at idle.
#865
Out of NYC
iTrader: (1)
Fan speed idiosyncrasies:
I just happen to live near Pettit Racing and was talking with Cam the other day. I showed him MazdaEdit and we were talking through the mods I made when he suggested I move the fan speeds just above operating temp to keep the car cooler. I had already lowered them from stock down to 92C, but he suggested why not to 86; so I did. I monitored the temperature for a few days following that, and found temps were 186 cruising, and up to 220 at idle; too high for comfort. I found that when you set fan 1 A and B settings to the same number (hoping that fan 1 would just operate on high rather than low any time it’s running), fan 1 doesn’t turn on at all. Has anyone else seen this or was it perhaps a flash glitch that happened?
I reset the fans at F1A 86, F1B 88, and F2 91 and it works much better. Temps are now 186 at cruise, and no higher than 200 at idle.
I just happen to live near Pettit Racing and was talking with Cam the other day. I showed him MazdaEdit and we were talking through the mods I made when he suggested I move the fan speeds just above operating temp to keep the car cooler. I had already lowered them from stock down to 92C, but he suggested why not to 86; so I did. I monitored the temperature for a few days following that, and found temps were 186 cruising, and up to 220 at idle; too high for comfort. I found that when you set fan 1 A and B settings to the same number (hoping that fan 1 would just operate on high rather than low any time it’s running), fan 1 doesn’t turn on at all. Has anyone else seen this or was it perhaps a flash glitch that happened?
I reset the fans at F1A 86, F1B 88, and F2 91 and it works much better. Temps are now 186 at cruise, and no higher than 200 at idle.
when you set both to the same, it confuses the stock program logic, and creating problems.
put it this way,when a program logical error happens on a windows program, it crashes and refuse to run
but on a car's ecu that's original coded with machine code or assembly, it will run in loops, the ecu gets confused and never execute the correct logic order.
Last edited by nycgps; 10-02-2014 at 12:02 PM.
#868
has anyone been able to see fuel pressure? i tried a couple pids that didn't work, i aslo tried the mazdaedit obd2 logger and mazda logger. those dint either.
on another note, on obd2 logger the actual afr is refreshed a lot faster than when im on mazda logger,,, idk why
on another note, on obd2 logger the actual afr is refreshed a lot faster than when im on mazda logger,,, idk why
#869
Registered
has anyone been able to see fuel pressure? i tried a couple pids that didn't work, i aslo tried the mazdaedit obd2 logger and mazda logger. those dint either.
on another note, on obd2 logger the actual afr is refreshed a lot faster than when im on mazda logger,,, idk why
on another note, on obd2 logger the actual afr is refreshed a lot faster than when im on mazda logger,,, idk why
thewird
#873
I'm needing a little help on the maf scaling tables. when I go into it and select my scale copy it and go to excel it's throwing up a lot of weird useless ">tr()" things in with it. What method is working to copy these values ? And also say I'm -17% from 1.2 - 3v I multiply this region by 83 correct ? Bc when I do this the numbers I get don't add up like it should when I do the math
#874
I'm needing a little help on the maf scaling tables. when I go into it and select my scale copy it and go to excel it's throwing up a lot of weird useless ">tr()" things in with it. What method is working to copy these values ? And also say I'm -17% from 1.2 - 3v I multiply this region by 83 correct ? Bc when I do this the numbers I get don't add up like it should when I do the math
#875
see thats what I dont understand , I have around 100 psi on all rotor faces, car was running at -10% fuel trims and all i did was cleaned the air filter, put on the ls coils and wires and did the 20 brake stomp and now it showing -17. it runs fine, no stalling or anything same power as always.