titaneum_grey

In the chart, the black line is the fail line and anything above it is NG?
Is it for older, lower psi rotary engines or would 99.4 - 128 be good psi for my 8 at 250 rpm's?

Williard

iTrader: (18)

Anything above the black line in RED means your on the failing side.

Anything below the black line in yellow/green means your passing.

99.4 PSI at 250 RPM is 7.20 which is passing but your close to the fail line.

I've seen motors run with compression scores around low 5's and still running fine. HOWEVER just because it runs doesn't mean it's right.

Obviously you want your numbers as high into the green as possible.

Travis

titaneum_grey

Thank you.

titaneum_grey

From the dealer
Rotor 1: 5.2 5.5 5.4
Rotor 2: 5.4 5.6 5.0
Yes it still ran as long as I kept the idle up when stopped.
Edmunds has my 8's max value at 6 grand. Kelly BB has it at $5800.
dealer o4 reman starts at $4344 for the core. With 3 valve solenoids, labor and tax I'm out the door at $7037.
pricing an 09 reman with the center oiler and higher operating pressure, before oiler line and any other conversion, labor or tax starts at $8039.
Kinda worried that if I slap everything back on a new core, without finding the cause of this, it will leave me open to having the same thing happen again.
Dealer rep flipped on his statement that a compression test was most likely done when they did my oiler lines three months ago to he can't confirm that it was done.
I love my 8 but this is a hard one.
I cold buy a used one for less then the price of repairing mine.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

$5800-$6000 is crack pipe pricing unless it is a mint, low mileage 04' with a fresh rebuild aka a Unicorn.

You can't install a 09+ engine without some serious compromises and expense, it would be cheaper to buy a 09+ with the 8 year 100k warranty left on it.

That said, you can get a good rebuild in the $3,000.00-$4000.00 range all said and done and even cheaper if you shop around with Rotary Resurrection or even OJ Imports if you really are on a budget.

Typical shop prices for the install should not be more than $1500.00. But yeah at the end of the day, it is a poor financial decision to try and keep an 04' RX-8 running. You have to do it for love, that is the only way to justify it

titaneum_grey

I'm not putting in a junk yard engine or a rebuild that's only good as a temp engine.
And yeah, the 09 is out of the question already.
I'm still looking but have been looking for a good rotary shop on long island for years and haven't found one with good reviews.

Go to rotatory resurrection's e-bay store and find the 04 engine. Then read the Q&A. That's where I got my info on the resurrection price. And then all the trimmings have to go back on. If you know of someplace cheaper I'm all ears.
Then look up my car in good to very good condition on Kelly's and Edmund's. That is where I got my numbers from. Obviously it would need to have a the engine rebuilt before it would fetch those prices.
The labor from the dealer is $1808, That also included the labor for the valve solenoids and eats up the cost of the diagnostic and the compression test they already did. If I do it some place else I still have that cost to add.
It's not so much the money. yeah that's a hard choice but I love driving two vehicles and I own both of them. With my 8 I have been to the dealer several times and been on here for just as long trying to find out what the problem was and why it wasn't running right. Now I have lost my compression and I still don't know what the problem was. Two times before I had it in the dealership and only now find out the word games the rep has been playing with me and not doing what I ask them to do to find the problem. I had the oiler lines done 3 months ago so this exact thing wouldn't happen. I changed out a cat that doesn't seem to have been clogged and I still don't know why it wasn't running right. Nothing to say I wouldn't wind up with the same problem after the reman install and no compression 3 months from now. That's what makes this such a hard call.

thanks for the info. I'll look up OJ imports

titaneum_grey

Found a good review for T&R racing today so I took a ride in to ask about building me an engine. I had forgotten how terrible queens roads are. lost a weak engine mount on my truck so I have myself a job for tomorrow.
Tony seems knowledgeable and upfront about things. He can sell me a rebuilt and get me out the door for 2 grand less but a Mazda but a Mazda reman from him would be more. He also thinks I might raze my compression numbers by decarbonizing my engine with sea foam and offered to do it. The only catch is that if it doesn't work the car will be stuck there. After reading more on the subject I found Mazda has a cleaner and should be able to do this for me.
I have to say it sounds a little too good to be true but I don't see how I have anything to loose by giving it a shot.

I e-mailed rotary resurrection two days ago and OJ imports yesterday. now it's just about waiting for them to get back to me.

Thanks.
Angelo

titaneum_grey

To anyone who followed this thread, those who tried to help or anyone else who comes looking for answers to the problems I had I will run down how things turned out.

I had the dealership do the de-carbonizing treatment. The improvement was hardly noticeable and the car was still stalling.

Got in touch with Rotary Resurrection and after a few weeks of e-mails set a date to have the car sent to him for three grand cheaper then the dealer wanted to install a rebuilt engine. The day before the car was to leave he sent me a contract that I could not agree to so the car went to the dealership instead.

After the dealership installed the new engine they claimed I had a bad power steering module and offered me a $350 aftermarket or a $1200 OEM. That problem turned out to be a bad connection after I insisted that they pay for anything they broke while the car was in their care. So the extra three grand wound up being the right way to go.

Had some CEL's for misfires. The dealer tech checked it out and told me it was just from the grease they use to hold the seals in while rebuilding and it would go away. They did. So far I have put 300 miles on the engine and haven't had any of the original issues return before the car began stalling. And I certainly haven't had it stall since I got it back.

If you are finding your speed fluctuates while in cruise control or your engine breaks up at high rpms while in the higher gears and before you get to the point where it starts stalling and you go through all the things I did in this thread, I suggest you have the compression tested first. It may be hard to wrap your head around the idea while you can still start the car and scream down the highway but, As I have learned, these are signs of a low compression and tired engine.

That said, I want to thank all those who tried to help or offered their experience.

Regards.
Angelo