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Old 10-18-2005, 01:55 PM   #1
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DIY: Tranny fluid change (auto)

Im tryin to change my own tranny fluid in my auto rx8. Cant seem to find the drain and fill plugs. Might be able to fill thru the dipstick but dont kno if thats right.
In my honda changin the tranny fluid is a piece of cake but wats wrong with the rx8 or is something wrong with me..haha..please help..need to do it asap thanks
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Old 10-18-2005, 02:11 PM   #2
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I think the owner's manual has a section about how to do this. Did you look there?
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Old 10-18-2005, 02:32 PM   #3
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dont think it says anything about how to do it...or does it..didnt see any directional type stuff....
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Old 10-18-2005, 03:37 PM   #4
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http://www.5cats.org/rx8/trans_diff_refill/


Try this link if it works or go to DIY 09/26/2005 Transmission and diff fluid replacement
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Old 10-18-2005, 09:00 PM   #5
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For the automatic: The shop manual says to drop the transmission oil pan to drain the fluid. Need new gasket for install. Refill thru dipstick.
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Old 10-21-2005, 10:00 AM   #6
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when u say shop manual..do u mean the manual the mazda techs use...just want to make sure...b4 i do it...thanks..by the way im not questioning your intelligence..just want to make sure b4 i mess anything up..haha..thanks
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Old 12-08-2005, 07:28 PM   #7
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You mean the manual the Mazda techs SHOULD use (but probably don't). Yes, the official, genuine, factory written, and supplied service manual says you have to drop the automatic transmission pan to drain the fluid. It's not hard, just messy. You'll need a new gasket to put the pan back on. You refill the transmission through the dipstick - but lots of cars are like that.
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Old 12-15-2005, 04:09 AM   #8
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I have a PELA oil pump that I been using to change engine oil, it pumps oil/fluid thru the dipstick. I pulled out the engine oil plug after pumping it out to check if it works and only little drips came out of hole. Maybe it will work the same on the auto tranny oil.
It is about $30-40 at amazon.com.
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Old 12-15-2005, 01:17 PM   #9
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why are you changing it? maybe it doesn't have a drain plug cause it uses life time fluid??? if you do change it...make sure to fill it back while the engine is running.
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Old 12-15-2005, 11:19 PM   #10
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i really really appreciate the info..the reason im changing the fluid is because it seems to hard shift sometimes and just time to do it i guess..my local mazda service recomm. i do it every 30,000. and i have like 37,000 miles on it already..haha. and why do i fill it while my engine is running..wouldnt that ruin the tranny...thanks
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Old 12-19-2005, 01:57 PM   #11
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I would NOT refill it with the engine running. Refill it first, then start the engine (there's a reason for LOW and HIGH markings on the transmission dipstick). It's not that hard. The car must be parked on a level surface. Drop the transmission pan and collect the fluid in an appropriate container (usually a large pan). Without a dran plug, this can be messy - be prepared. (Sucking it out with a pump works, but then you need a pump - saves dropping the pan but you don't get a look at the inside of the transmission). Replace the transmission pan using a new gasket (torque to 63-78 inch-pounds; DO NOT use foot-pounds. You should not be deforming the pan). Measure the amount of fluid that came out and replace with an equal amount, refilling through the dipstick (this assumes that the fluid wasn't low or high to begin with - it should be OK from the factory). Start the engine, holding your foot on the brake, move the transmission lever through all the gears. Put it back into park and apply the hand brake. When the engine's been idling about 2 minutes, read the level on the dipstick (while the engine is idling). It should be in the HOT range. Do not rely on the COLD range for fluid level - that's only a guide. Only the HOT level when idling counts. If the engine's been running more than two minutes (or after being driven) the reading is not accurate. It got to be up to temp but not too hot (150 F)- 2 minutes is it. Keep in mind that with a drain and refill (as described above) you're NOT replacing all the transmission fluid. About half the old fluid is left behind in the torque converter and the rest of the transmission - that's just how automatic transmissions are. Going to a shop and using a professional flush machine replaces all the fluid.

Last edited by Ericok; 12-19-2005 at 10:06 PM.
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Old 12-20-2005, 11:44 AM   #12
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thanks alot for the info ericok...appreciate the help...
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Old 12-11-2006, 04:33 PM   #13
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is there any schedule time/mileage - to change the ATF ? I tried to search and read the owners manual and Mazda workshop manuals but didn't find anything...
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Old 05-01-2007, 07:16 PM   #14
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Sorry, flush machines just mix new fluid in with old. It's well known in the industry that auto trans flush machines are just a marketing gimmick to get more of your $$$

sounds like you fell for it hook, line, and sinker ...
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Old 06-12-2008, 06:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamRX8 View Post
Sorry, flush machines just mix new fluid in with old. It's well known in the industry that auto trans flush machines are just a marketing gimmick to get more of your $$$

sounds like you fell for it hook, line, and sinker ...
thats MAYBE partially true... at least for the Goodyear I worked at in High school. The machine we had had 2 tanks. new fluid went in one, and the other was empty. The empty one would fill with the fluid from the transmission cooler line from the transmission(to the trans cooler/radiator), while the new tank would pump fluid into the return line from the cooler/radiator to the transmission... eventually all fluid was replaced. There was a view-tube that allowed you to eye-ball and watch the old fluid come out (usually a different color than the new fluid). While it may not replace 100% of the fluid, it would definitely do more than just "mixing new and old fluid."

EDIT: sorry for the necro.... just wanted to toss my .02 on ATF flushes. Additionally, best thing about dropping the pan is that you can change the filter if its a filter inside the pan..

Last edited by jlf12345; 06-12-2008 at 06:48 PM. Reason: <shrugs>
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Old 06-14-2008, 08:36 PM   #16
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6-speed Auto

Here is the page from the service manual on how to check the transmission fluid level - no more dipstick!

After installing an extra transmission cooler and an in-line Magnafine filter I looked and looked for the place to add fluid. I expect adding the cooler caused the level to be at least one quart low but the car drives fine now so this will have to wait for cooler weather (110 today & tomorrow).
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Old 07-28-2008, 12:47 PM   #17
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so I take it the only way to do it on the 4AT is to drop the pan and fill it through the dipstick hole, or take it to the dealer for them to flush it with their machine?
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Old 07-28-2008, 01:53 PM   #18
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i would like to know too.. i have about 50k on mine.
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Old 04-15-2009, 12:24 PM   #19
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This is exactly how my mechanic did mine and he's not a mazda mechanic, charged me $80 dealer wanted $180...took pan off drained, filled to low started car and filled the rest oh ya and replaced gasket

car running soooo smooth at 50k
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Old 10-21-2010, 02:54 PM   #20
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Okay, I also have an auto RX-8. The owner's manual says to CHANGE the fluid at 100K miles...Mine's at 111,xxx, and it's slipping during shifting and idling hard, so I know it needs changed. Now, my question: According to Mazda, they only flush the system and replace the filter. So, is the filter external? Because they said they DO NOT replace the pan gasket. I just don't want the spend $260 for them to do it if it's a pretty easy diy job and if they are going to gyp me out of money.
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Old 12-19-2012, 05:58 AM   #21
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I just changed mine..The only real way to do it is Drop the Pan.. Get yourself a big catch basin.. Oil change one won't be big enough..Jack car up (Jack stands are a requirement) Loosen all Bolts and get ready to make a mess.. Put your catch basin (I actually used a 5gal Bucket that I cut down to size your gonna take out about 8qts) Under the Lowest part of the Pan..Leavin some of the FRONT bolts connected..Loosen the Rear Bolts some more..Fluid will start to come out CATCH IT..Once Pan stops Drippin Remove all the Bolts Startin with the Rear ones an working around.. Wear Rubber Gloves and grab some Cat Litter.. You can Reuse your Gasket..just put a thin layer of RTV around it.. Re install Bolts Tightening in an Criss Cross pattern loosely, then snug after a few passes around.. (You can Find TORQUE SPECS somewhere if ya want..Fill threw Dip Tube..
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Old 12-19-2012, 09:25 AM   #22
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Just keep in mind you won't get all the fluid out, only the fluid in the pan. There is still some in the torque converter, etc. From what I understand the only "true" way to get most of the old fluid out in an automatic trans is to basically do what you did, drive the car around for a bit, and do it again.

Either that or use a trans flush machine. Some people love those, some people don't like them.
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Old 02-25-2013, 03:48 AM   #23
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I had my trans flushed at the stealership.... I didn't feel a difference in my shifting at all, still jolts from 1st to 2nd, should I be concerned?
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Old 02-25-2013, 10:18 AM   #24
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How bad is the jolt? A firm shift can be a good thing, actually. From what I understand, usually the softer the shift in an automatic, the more wear that is occurring in the transmission.

I've noticed in mine that the shift is fairly brisk from 1st to 2nd, fairly lazy from 2nd to 3rd, and pretty quick from 3rd to 4th. Which is annoying, because when I drive it at track days, the 2nd to 3rd shift is the one that I use all the time.
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:19 PM   #25
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Its really bad, or at least it feels like it because all the other gears shift so smoothly :\

Sorry for the late reply, was overseas
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:19 PM
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