EdwardsB

I wanted to have two power switches in the false switches next to the DSC and Light buttons, but didnt want it to look like any modifications had been done (easy access also). So here is what I did...

Ignore the plastic strip under the button just a spacer as the epoxy dried.

EdwardsB

Here is the removed false button, and you will cut along the red lines after removing the excess support (next post). The back of the switch removes easily with four clips.

EdwardsB

Removed the two false buttons from the dash, and first had to remove the front face from the body. I used a hack saw to cut slits then they just snapped out, and cleaned up with a file. **Leave the last segment to wrap around the switch housing for a backstop so it doesnt fall out of your dash**

Then very carefully used the hacksaw along the back of the face to remove it, a band-saw would work fine also.

EdwardsB

Then depending on your style of push button you may have to file down some of the face so that the button can be pressed, and when its off it will remain flush with your current buttons (DCS).

File along the red lines...

EdwardsB

Here is a button I used, but I cant tell you where I got it (store) because it was taken from something in the garage that didnt need it anymore. Any push button that fits in the switch body should work you may jsut need to make more adjustments.

EdwardsB

Then I needed to make a bracket to hold the switch inside the switch body. Used an approx 1/8'' thick piece of plastic for this (extra electrical box side). I cut it to fit exactly inside the switch body and drilled a hole to hold the switch itself. Then using a file and hacksaw cut the three groves on each side to fit the groves on the body.

EdwardsB

After the correct fit was met I attached the switch to the bracket and used plastics glue to hole the switch. Let it completely dry before dry fitting it to the proper depth.

EdwardsB

Then I placed the button housing back into the dash and dry fitted the switch bracket to the proper depth. So when the switch is off it it flush with the rest of the buttons. IN the picture below it was already glued in place after setting the proper depth.

The scratches on the button face were added to give the epoxy a good grasp on the smooth button. Also done to the rear face of the button.

EdwardsB

Then after soldering the wires into place I filled in the back end of the button with epoxy to help hold the switch in place inside the button housing. I finished it by sealing it with electrical tape.

EdwardsB

Then using epoxy I fixed the front button face to the face of the switch and let it dry.

Now I have a fully functional and stock looking buttons next to the DSC and light dimmer.


Hope all this made sense. I have terrible spelling and didnt really go back and check my grammar, lol. So if something doesn't make sense to you feel free to let me know.

Kennetht638

iTrader: (2)

That's great that you did this. I just did the exact same thing to run aux. lights, except that I also drilled a hole for an LED in the face of the button. I just used a panel mount push-button switch from Radio Shack.

laythor

great DIY!

Now i'll have a way to launch my missles!

kevsRX8

FYI you can buy the DSC button from Montgomery Mazda in Charlotte for about $30. It installs nicely next to the stock one and you have an added power button. Only problem is that you have 2 buttons that say DSC.

EdwardsB

^but does the button stay in the on position after you push it in. What i mean is does the button just complete a circuit for the brief period it is pressed. Because the one I made keeps the circuit closed until you press it again. I think the DSC button only is there to complete the circuit to send a signal to the computer while you hold the button in.

EdwardsB

even if it would have worked these are only like $3 and your time (I like building things)

daisuke

what are you running from that button?

EdwardsB

Right now I only have it run the stereo without the key. I was going to try a key less start (i have a start button) but the range of the RFID chip in the key is holding me back. If I could find a way around this problem them it would be used to turn the power to the car on. I also made a second one, but don't have a use for it "yet".

zerobio

How did you remove the button from the dash?
.
.
.
Found it in another thread:

"...remove the plastic panel underneath the steering wheel. Remove the steel plate underneath (4 screws keep it in place).
Lie on your back across the driver side door jamb and reach through the hole you just opened up underneath the steering wheel. Find the right-most blank panel first... there are tabs on the top and bottom... a little tricky, but squeeze them enough, and that blank panel will push right out (see the pic of the blank panel I modified and you should get an idea for where the tabs are).
Next, remove the DSC switch and then the panel dimmer control... these should be a lot easier once the first blank panel is removed. There is enough slack in the wiring to just let these hang out the front of the panel.
Finally remove the left-most blank panel. This should be fairly easy now that everything else is out of the way..."

EdwardsB

^there you have it...the prob is jsut getting the first one out!

zerobio

Ok thanks.

zerobio

This might be ghetto but: would it be possible to cut the blank button as you did to remove the face, cut a flat piece of hard plastic, notch it, and drill out a circle, and then mount a simple on/off round rocker switch? How bad would that look with rectangular buttons + a round one? Pretty bad ...? Just thinking of alternatives.

slash128

I know this is an old thread but in case anyone references here (like I did) I wanted to confirm that I checked and the DSC switch is a momentary switch, ie: it only closes the circuit when you press it.