DIY: Spark Plug change.......
11-30-2015, 08:00 PM
#451
You gonna eat that?
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If you have an AdvanceAuto store near you, you can get online coupons that can save you quite a bit of money if you order online first and go pick them up.
12-01-2015, 06:31 PM
#453
You gonna eat that?
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It makes sense. If your plugs are carboned over from bad coils not firing, then they couldn't fire properly and would perpetuate the flooding issue.
It's why we change plugs, coils, and wires together as a unit.
Also, if you have had misfires, there's a chance your catalytic converter could be damaged. (If you still have one)
It should be checked out.
It's a very common cascading problem.
Misfires kill cats, bad cats kill engines.
It's why we change plugs, coils, and wires together as a unit.
Also, if you have had misfires, there's a chance your catalytic converter could be damaged. (If you still have one)
It should be checked out.
It's a very common cascading problem.
Misfires kill cats, bad cats kill engines.
12-20-2015, 04:38 AM
#454
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Took the spark plugs out of mine today. Bought the car as a non runner. They were seized in there, smashed and cut my hand multiple times on the brake calipers as I cracked the plugs out.
I'll be using anti seize..
I'll be using anti seize..
03-15-2016, 03:06 PM
#456
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This DIY guide looks simple and easy to follow. I’m not a mechanic and furthermore, I know nothing about the engine of a car. However, your guide is basic and I’m sure I can follow these instructions.
04-10-2016, 06:24 PM
#458
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Stuck Spark Plugs
Did not want to start a new thread and thought I ask for opinions on this one.
I have done my own Spark Plug/Coil/Wire change 4 previous times with the most recent being 2 months ago. My car was flooded for the first time and after going through the depress the gas pedal procedure and not working, I planned on removing the spark plugs and cranking from there. But for some reason, the leading plugs are on super tight. I have never had too much trouble, just a little exra oomph, in my previous changes. I used anti-seize and I start with an extension and wobble, but when that does not work, I go under the car to access the plugs without any extensions. I use a torque wrench and have a breaker bar.
To make a long story short, both leading plugs loosened a little and got completely stuck. I was putting in a little more oomph on the rear lead and my grip slipped causing the racket to slip as well and the socket damaged the tip, bending the spark plug tip but not off. I figure it is just seized up and did not want to try again.
So the question is, should I try again after putting some PB blaster or CLP Break Free overnight, or just go safe and tow to a mechanic? My trusted mazda tech is about 30 miles away. My worry is if I continue and do it wrong, I will either break the plug and leave part of it in the engine or strip it.
Am I over thinking this? Thanks
I have done my own Spark Plug/Coil/Wire change 4 previous times with the most recent being 2 months ago. My car was flooded for the first time and after going through the depress the gas pedal procedure and not working, I planned on removing the spark plugs and cranking from there. But for some reason, the leading plugs are on super tight. I have never had too much trouble, just a little exra oomph, in my previous changes. I used anti-seize and I start with an extension and wobble, but when that does not work, I go under the car to access the plugs without any extensions. I use a torque wrench and have a breaker bar.
To make a long story short, both leading plugs loosened a little and got completely stuck. I was putting in a little more oomph on the rear lead and my grip slipped causing the racket to slip as well and the socket damaged the tip, bending the spark plug tip but not off. I figure it is just seized up and did not want to try again.
So the question is, should I try again after putting some PB blaster or CLP Break Free overnight, or just go safe and tow to a mechanic? My trusted mazda tech is about 30 miles away. My worry is if I continue and do it wrong, I will either break the plug and leave part of it in the engine or strip it.
Am I over thinking this? Thanks
04-11-2016, 03:06 PM
#459
Haven't had a situation yet that pb blaster couldn't get me out of. I'd try that and make sure you have a good grip on your socket.
Did not want to start a new thread and thought I ask for opinions on this one.
I have done my own Spark Plug/Coil/Wire change 4 previous times with the most recent being 2 months ago. My car was flooded for the first time and after going through the depress the gas pedal procedure and not working, I planned on removing the spark plugs and cranking from there. But for some reason, the leading plugs are on super tight. I have never had too much trouble, just a little exra oomph, in my previous changes. I used anti-seize and I start with an extension and wobble, but when that does not work, I go under the car to access the plugs without any extensions. I use a torque wrench and have a breaker bar.
To make a long story short, both leading plugs loosened a little and got completely stuck. I was putting in a little more oomph on the rear lead and my grip slipped causing the racket to slip as well and the socket damaged the tip, bending the spark plug tip but not off. I figure it is just seized up and did not want to try again.
So the question is, should I try again after putting some PB blaster or CLP Break Free overnight, or just go safe and tow to a mechanic? My trusted mazda tech is about 30 miles away. My worry is if I continue and do it wrong, I will either break the plug and leave part of it in the engine or strip it.
Am I over thinking this? Thanks
I have done my own Spark Plug/Coil/Wire change 4 previous times with the most recent being 2 months ago. My car was flooded for the first time and after going through the depress the gas pedal procedure and not working, I planned on removing the spark plugs and cranking from there. But for some reason, the leading plugs are on super tight. I have never had too much trouble, just a little exra oomph, in my previous changes. I used anti-seize and I start with an extension and wobble, but when that does not work, I go under the car to access the plugs without any extensions. I use a torque wrench and have a breaker bar.
To make a long story short, both leading plugs loosened a little and got completely stuck. I was putting in a little more oomph on the rear lead and my grip slipped causing the racket to slip as well and the socket damaged the tip, bending the spark plug tip but not off. I figure it is just seized up and did not want to try again.
So the question is, should I try again after putting some PB blaster or CLP Break Free overnight, or just go safe and tow to a mechanic? My trusted mazda tech is about 30 miles away. My worry is if I continue and do it wrong, I will either break the plug and leave part of it in the engine or strip it.
Am I over thinking this? Thanks
04-12-2016, 10:09 PM
#461
You gonna eat that?
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If they started to back out then froze, I think they might be crossthreaded.
It could have happened when you installed them with your extension.
I never use tools to start plugs.
I learned a neat trick years ago;
I use a short length of an old plug wire
to start them, it's foolproof.
It could have happened when you installed them with your extension.
I never use tools to start plugs.
I learned a neat trick years ago;
I use a short length of an old plug wire
to start them, it's foolproof.
04-30-2016, 09:05 PM
#463
You gonna eat that?
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I haven't reused any, but I have read people have cleaned and reused them.
I think they use a nylon brush and gentle cleaning so as not to damage the iridium coating.
I think they use a nylon brush and gentle cleaning so as not to damage the iridium coating.
05-02-2016, 07:09 PM
#464
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06-11-2016, 09:24 AM
#465
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
I always love seeing this in the service manual - customres who drive their car only at low speed have the option for using a hotter plug. Hilarious.
Specification
Spark plug type
Leading side: N3H5 18 110A (RE7C-L)*1, N3Y8 18 110A (RE7C-L)*1, N3Y9 18 110A (RE6CL)*
2
Trailing side: N3H1 18 110D (RE9B-T)*1, N3Y1 18 110A (RE9B-T)*1
*1
Standard equipment
*2
Hot type plug: Available only for customers who often drive their car at very low speed
which causes the plugs to foul easily.
Specification
Spark plug type
Leading side: N3H5 18 110A (RE7C-L)*1, N3Y8 18 110A (RE7C-L)*1, N3Y9 18 110A (RE6CL)*
2
Trailing side: N3H1 18 110D (RE9B-T)*1, N3Y1 18 110A (RE9B-T)*1
*1
Standard equipment
*2
Hot type plug: Available only for customers who often drive their car at very low speed
which causes the plugs to foul easily.
06-18-2016, 03:15 AM
#466
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I got a quick question and didn't want to start a new thread. I have the NGK spark plugs wires and their is 2 wires that have black ends and 2 that are plain blue ends. They have either #1 and 2 taped on then. Anyone know if it matters? And anyone have a picture of them installed or diagram? Thanks!
06-18-2016, 04:28 AM
#467
I got a quick question and didn't want to start a new thread. I have the NGK spark plugs wires and their is 2 wires that have black ends and 2 that are plain blue ends. They have either #1 and 2 taped on then. Anyone know if it matters? And anyone have a picture of them installed or diagram? Thanks!
The previous owner probably labeled those. But to answer your questions, yes they do matter. The blue NGK wires are manufactured in different lengths and you will also notice how they are specific to the leading or trailing side of the rotor from the ignition coil. The marker #1 and #2 on the wires, I would assume is for which rotor; front(#1) and rear(#2) in relation to the ignition coil.
The engine will run rough if you misplaced a leading spark plug into the trailing part of the rotor and vice-versa; however, if the wire-plug is on a trailing coil and placed in the leading part of the rotor, you will have a much bigger problem. So, you should always check that your spark plugs and wires are in the right places. The spark plugs are different in lengths and the tips are color coded, hence the blue and black ends of the NGK wires. The (L)eading spark plug tip is white and the (T)railing spark plug tip is blue. Check and see the picture I took below.
It's really simple to follow the diagram, but it's also simple to mix things up if you aren't careful. The attached links below is how the coils and wires should be installed to the spark plug in each rotor. If you are not sure, you can always go back to the first page.
Last edited by Grace_Excel; 06-19-2016 at 05:47 AM. Reason: Added pictures.
06-19-2016, 10:51 AM
#468
You gonna eat that?
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+1^
If you're anxious about mixing it up,
do one plug and wire at a time.
If you're anxious about mixing it up,
do one plug and wire at a time.
06-20-2016, 06:50 AM
#469
I got a quick question and didn't want to start a new thread. I have the NGK spark plugs wires and their is 2 wires that have black ends and 2 that are plain blue ends. They have either #1 and 2 taped on then. Anyone know if it matters? And anyone have a picture of them installed or diagram? Thanks!
06-27-2016, 12:28 AM
#470
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I cant sleep because im worried
I changed my plugs, wires, and coils after having a misfire. Everything went fine got everything changed and car worked great..now a day later after driving normally, I decided to feel her in all of her new found Glory
I revved each gear to around 8000 and got to around 100 mph. Nothing happened all was still good after then suddenly solid CEL with no misfires or anything noticeable. I got to autozone and got them to read the code and it comeback for the cat going bad. Now, does anyone know whether it would be from the misfire before I replaced plugs wires and coils or do you think I am having a misfire now and it just isn't noticeable? The car isn't losing power or anything with the CEL on but it's just worrying me.
I revved each gear to around 8000 and got to around 100 mph. Nothing happened all was still good after then suddenly solid CEL with no misfires or anything noticeable. I got to autozone and got them to read the code and it comeback for the cat going bad. Now, does anyone know whether it would be from the misfire before I replaced plugs wires and coils or do you think I am having a misfire now and it just isn't noticeable? The car isn't losing power or anything with the CEL on but it's just worrying me.
07-21-2016, 08:54 PM
#471
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Did not want to start a new thread and thought I ask for opinions on this one.
I have done my own Spark Plug/Coil/Wire change 4 previous times with the most recent being 2 months ago. My car was flooded for the first time and after going through the depress the gas pedal procedure and not working, I planned on removing the spark plugs and cranking from there. But for some reason, the leading plugs are on super tight. I have never had too much trouble, just a little exra oomph, in my previous changes. I used anti-seize and I start with an extension and wobble, but when that does not work, I go under the car to access the plugs without any extensions. I use a torque wrench and have a breaker bar.
To make a long story short, both leading plugs loosened a little and got completely stuck. I was putting in a little more oomph on the rear lead and my grip slipped causing the racket to slip as well and the socket damaged the tip, bending the spark plug tip but not off. I figure it is just seized up and did not want to try again.
So the question is, should I try again after putting some PB blaster or CLP Break Free overnight, or just go safe and tow to a mechanic? My trusted mazda tech is about 30 miles away. My worry is if I continue and do it wrong, I will either break the plug and leave part of it in the engine or strip it.
Am I over thinking this? Thanks
I have done my own Spark Plug/Coil/Wire change 4 previous times with the most recent being 2 months ago. My car was flooded for the first time and after going through the depress the gas pedal procedure and not working, I planned on removing the spark plugs and cranking from there. But for some reason, the leading plugs are on super tight. I have never had too much trouble, just a little exra oomph, in my previous changes. I used anti-seize and I start with an extension and wobble, but when that does not work, I go under the car to access the plugs without any extensions. I use a torque wrench and have a breaker bar.
To make a long story short, both leading plugs loosened a little and got completely stuck. I was putting in a little more oomph on the rear lead and my grip slipped causing the racket to slip as well and the socket damaged the tip, bending the spark plug tip but not off. I figure it is just seized up and did not want to try again.
So the question is, should I try again after putting some PB blaster or CLP Break Free overnight, or just go safe and tow to a mechanic? My trusted mazda tech is about 30 miles away. My worry is if I continue and do it wrong, I will either break the plug and leave part of it in the engine or strip it.
Am I over thinking this? Thanks
I had stuck plugs in the past and i did what you are doing , used PB Blaster , great stuff. I had success in removing them after i let the PB Blaster sit for 24 hours and a squirt before i started and the trick for me was rocking the plug back and forth. Run the plug back in a 1/4 turn and back out a little until you can work your way out . It took me a few minutes but i didn't strip the plug head and didn't bust my knuckles , try rocking the plug back and forth. Gently tapping on the plug when i sprayed the PB Blaster also helped. Good luck.
07-19-2017, 01:02 AM
#474
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Quick question .....Why are all the pic's on this page not there but instead a square that says inside ....please up date your account to enable 3rd party hosying , what happened to all the pic's??.
