DIY: Spark Plug Change.
09-22-2010, 02:19 PM
#101
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MsWhite, I bought my OEM coils from Mazmart for 150 i believe and wires from THMotorsport for 37+80 for plugs. So if that is only coils and wires it is expensive and you can find better pricing from vendors here.
On your question I should say there is only one way of connecting the wires because of their length (I learn it the hard way). I think they have number 1 and 2 on wires for front rotor and back rotor and blue is for leading and black is for trailing. I am not sure but that is what I remember. Again once you try it there is only one way of connecting those NGK wires.
On your question I should say there is only one way of connecting the wires because of their length (I learn it the hard way). I think they have number 1 and 2 on wires for front rotor and back rotor and blue is for leading and black is for trailing. I am not sure but that is what I remember. Again once you try it there is only one way of connecting those NGK wires.
09-23-2010, 10:04 AM
#102
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I found these off ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IGNIT...Q5fAccessories
Question is, are these good? How i know which color coil is for the leading or trailing.?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IGNIT...Q5fAccessories
Question is, are these good? How i know which color coil is for the leading or trailing.?
For installation, I used the diagram that you can find in this same thread, but, it is not that difficult. The lenght of the wires plus the L & T ID's in the housings make it fairly simple, at least for the wires.
Good luck
10-16-2010, 03:41 AM
#105
My first plug change.
I've already encountered a problem: The rear trailing and leading spark plugs wouldn't budge, so I was not able to remove and replace those. The fronts were easy. Wires are in it's corresponding spark plugs. Started the car and CEL disappeared.
Although, with only the front leading and trailing plugs replaced, the CEL disappeared with a rough idle. Drove it around for half an hour and I could feel the power difference prior to the DIY; however, I still have to maintain my foot slightly on the accelarator to keep the idle above 500 RPM, otherwise, the car will stall (but doesn't flood) at a full stop.
It starts up right away and the RPM dips below then rises up to 900 RPM as though the ECU would revive it without the aid of my foot. I don't know if it's due to the new plugs in the front and old ones in the rear for the engine to react this way. I only hope, once I could remove and replace the two remaining plugs in the rear that I wouldn't have a chronic idling problem.
10-16-2010, 10:53 AM
#108
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Not so much the idling you have to worry about, but if your ignition system is weak it won't burn all the fuel, so the unburned fuel will get clogged in your catalytic converter.
10-16-2010, 12:28 PM
#109
Objectively, the car runs better than before. Besides the ignition coils, what could be an underlaying cause for the idle to drop. I can aid it to 1000 RPM and it'll stay there, however, if I drive normally and completely remove my foot off the pedal and come to a complete stop. It'll dip straight and stall. Anyway, I might not drive the car until I remove and replace the rear trailing and leading spark plugs, and attempt to clean the Shutter Valve this weekend.
10-17-2010, 07:35 AM
#110
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Well, a dirty mass airflow sensor can also cause rough idle. I bought a can of MAS cleaner and pulled mine off and cleaned it. Made a pretty big difference in idle. But.. be VERY careful because it's very sensitive.
10-17-2010, 12:46 PM
#111
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just changed my plugs in my driveway. Took me about half
hour, first time doing it. Just replaced 1 plug n wire at a time so there is no confusion. My front leading plug was rusty/corroded where the spark plug meets the wire. Im glad it got it done because the car drives and idles much better now.
Just got the rx8 with 51k on it a few weeks back and im trying to do all the maintence right away. Next is changing diff and tranny fluid.
hour, first time doing it. Just replaced 1 plug n wire at a time so there is no confusion. My front leading plug was rusty/corroded where the spark plug meets the wire. Im glad it got it done because the car drives and idles much better now.
Just got the rx8 with 51k on it a few weeks back and im trying to do all the maintence right away. Next is changing diff and tranny fluid.
10-17-2010, 03:46 PM
#112
I finally removed the rear leading and trailing spark plugs, I was afraid that I'd break the plug. It was so tight that I'm quite positive that the last person who changed it didn't apply the anti-seize prior to putting the old plugs. However, the rough idle slightly improved after I did the "20-brake-stomp" RAM reset. Drove it and damn, the wonders of what new plugs could do. I was able to stretch 6 gallons of 91 Oct. gas to 130 highway miles. WOW, that's from 16 - 17 mpg last week, now I get close to 20 mpg conservatively!
Addendum: the rough idle was caused by disconnecting the battery when I replaced the spark plugs, the ECU relearns the fuel trims in the first few cycles after reconnecting the battery. A cycle consists of starting the car when the engine is cold and shutting it off once it reaches operating temperatures, then waiting for a period of time until the engine cools off before restarting the engine for another cycle. If you drive the car while the ECU is trying to relearn the fuel trim, the idle will dip and cause you to stall the car. It took me about three or four times in a 24 hour period. What I noticed also is the air pump doesn't engage during those cycles and the idle is slightly above 1000 RPM instead of 1750-2000 RPM when the air pump is on.
Addendum: the rough idle was caused by disconnecting the battery when I replaced the spark plugs, the ECU relearns the fuel trims in the first few cycles after reconnecting the battery. A cycle consists of starting the car when the engine is cold and shutting it off once it reaches operating temperatures, then waiting for a period of time until the engine cools off before restarting the engine for another cycle. If you drive the car while the ECU is trying to relearn the fuel trim, the idle will dip and cause you to stall the car. It took me about three or four times in a 24 hour period. What I noticed also is the air pump doesn't engage during those cycles and the idle is slightly above 1000 RPM instead of 1750-2000 RPM when the air pump is on.
Last edited by Grace_Excel; 06-05-2012 at 11:41 AM. Reason: Added information.
10-17-2010, 04:42 PM
#113
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Make sure you use the right oil! Mobil1 or Royal Purple have been known to cause transmission grinding! I just managed to fix mine after using mobil1 :| Red Line other GL-4 oil only! </offtopic>
10-20-2010, 02:47 PM
#116
There isn't much room specially if the plugs are difficult to unscrew! I bought a 13/16 magnetic spark plug remover with 10 inch swivel-headed-extension from Autozone; use a 6 inch extension also.
Last edited by Grace_Excel; 06-05-2012 at 12:19 PM.
01-09-2011, 12:06 PM
#118
Well i just replaced the plugs, wires and coils on my 2006 RX8 and the car still wont start, it seemed like it wanted to but just wouldn't...
Any suggestions?
Any suggestions?
Last edited by themodcity; 01-10-2011 at 04:26 PM.
01-11-2011, 07:03 PM
#122
thermodcity, what is your location? I'll bet someone from this forum who lives near you would be willing to drive to your place to help you deflood.
Once you deflood a couple of times, you get the "feel" for it.
Once you deflood a couple of times, you get the "feel" for it.
03-13-2012, 06:22 PM
#125
I used this DIY today to change my plugs wires and coils.
I was able to access all 4 spark plugs from the wheel well with the wheel removed. I used the bsm polish coils and OEM ngk plugs/wires.
after changing out all three I noticed smoother idle and more responsive power in the band.
Question though... is it normal to have that same oil/water froth found on the dipstick on the plugs? There was a small amount on a couple plugs.
I was able to access all 4 spark plugs from the wheel well with the wheel removed. I used the bsm polish coils and OEM ngk plugs/wires.
after changing out all three I noticed smoother idle and more responsive power in the band.
Question though... is it normal to have that same oil/water froth found on the dipstick on the plugs? There was a small amount on a couple plugs.