ALMOST8IT

I thought sythetics were discouraged in the manual? Also, what size is the crush washer?

SpacerX

Don't have the dimensions on the crush washer -- I re-used it this time. Will prolly replace it at the next change.

The manual stipulates API Service SL and ILSAC GF3 oil standards -- nothing more, nothing less. Any oil meeting the standard is OK. Besides, Mazda resolved the whole debate on synths officially a few months ago, IIRC, when they declared synths as A-OK.

I use the motorcraft synth blend because it's exhbited solid quality and the price/availability is great -- Walmart has it for about $1.75 a quart. I drop the extra $$ on the filter, though (around $11 -- the M1s are worth it, though).

Next project is a tranny & differential oil change...

flatso

please point me to the source that gave the A-Ok to synthetics


love,
Dr Skeptical

said7

[QUOTE]awesome!

Moderator: can we get this into the DIY forum so it is easily referenced later??

QUOTE]

What he said ^

MyRxBad

iTrader: (1)

Just changed my oil yesterday on my 8.
Mine didn't have a factory crush washer on it when I took it off, unless it fell inside.

Q: Does anyone have the torque spec from the manual? I set mine to my Rx-7's (30 ft/lbs).

Tip: if you are putting rags underneath the filter to catch some oil that may spill out, be careful that you don't knock off the clutch slave cylinder rubber bleeder cap.

SpacerX

Have been away for a few weeks, on deployment.

For those looking for info on synth oils, there have been many threads written up about the spec-facts, as well as the rumors surrounding synth oils. Several of the threads also noted the fact that Mazda's recommended oils are both mineral based AND synthetic, with the European RX8's getting ONLY synthetic motor oil...

I consider it a non issue. For those who are still skeptical, I welcome you conduct a search and to re-read the threads.

Just BTW, have driven 1400 miles since the oil change. MPG is up from 18.5 to 19.5 in mixed driving.

Ciao!

SpacerX

Will be performing a 5k mile change this week, so I thought I'd post some additional info for those interested.

I'm not normally such a stickler on oil specs, but I thought I'd do some more research on oils and filters and post my own conclusions here FWIW.

Some good reference reading: Mark Lawrence's excellent website is devoted to motorcycle technology, but it provides some very good engineering-based discussion on the make-up and usefulness of various oils and filters. He makes recommendations from a motorcycle perspective, but much of the model numbers and issues are similar and applicable, if not the same, for the Renesis (or other engines, for that matter). Mark Lawrence's Site His receommendations have been stated by others elsewhere: his favorites are the Pure One (PL14610/14612, ~$6) and the Mobil-1 M1-108/110, ~$10). I'm going to use a PL14612. I'm not going to continue with the "larger" size filter alternatives -- the smaller ones are just easier to handle...

I read through several postings on The Oil Drop Forums linked with Bob's "Oil Guy" Site

It turns out my original choice (Motorcraft Synth Blend) for a good 5w20 oil has become the "darling" of the oil drop forums (excellent Used Oil Analysis results). Note: I confirmed through several postings that this oil is made by Conoco and is a "blend" of group II, II+, and III oils. It is NOT blended with PAO-type (group IV+) synthetics. Conoco "Hydroclear" is similar stuff. Castrol GTX, Pennzoil, Havoline/Chevron (supreme) all seem to be excellent choices for VERY high-performance mineral oils (mostly blends of group II and group III oils), without the cost of the "boutique" oils (the Motorcraft is $1.40/quart). I'm going to continue using the Motorcraft 5w20.

I plan on doing another oil change at 7500 and sending in a sample of the Motorcraft for testing to help establish a baseline for this oil in the Renesis.

SpacerX

Part numbers for crush washers:
1. oil drain plug: 9956-41-400
2. tranny drain plug: Y601-17-361
3. differential drain plug: 9956-41-800

The oil drain plug "gaskets" were 80 cents, and measure 9.6mm ID and 20mm OD. I plan to take one to a parts store and see if I can find/recommend a less expensive alternative for those who unfortunately are experincing some "stealership gouging" with the washers.

The tranny and diffy plug gaskets are $1.40 and $1.10, respectively. I'll post findings on these in the Tranny/Differential Fluid Change Thread

Ciao!

picosrx8

Another quick tip...
I followed all the advice of this DIY which was great. My original oil filter was on so tight that I broke two oil filter wrenches before I actually broke it loose. The first was a plastic type. The second was steel that broke out the center piece. Save your self some time and start with a steel cap.

93BlackFD

guys, read this:

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

stick with mazda OEM filter

400hp FD here

syntrix

That is specific to the Mobil one #301 filter. What are you trying to say about the 110 or the 108?

wankel8

I thought I didn't have a crush washer from the factory, either. I later realized it was stuck on the drain bolt, and the side of the washer was painted black. For what its worth...

I broke the dealer oil filter wrench trying to get the filter off. I found a universal wrench at Autozone that worked great... the harder you turn the tighter it grabs the filter.

Chris in MD

Nice instructions syntrix. I changed my oil yesterday (6K miles) - went pretty smooth including getting the filter off due to the good directions. Used the phram6607 with valvoline 5-20. This was actually the cars second oil change - first one was at the dealer. Couple observations:

I did put a shop rag around the bottom of the filter prior to loosening and was glad I did. I tried to loosen a little to let some air in and the oil to drain out - quite a bit drained out all right - fortunately on the shop rag. Next time I'll probably just poke a hole in the top.

Not much room to get the filter out and slide the new one in. Would be easier for someone with smaller hands.

I was surprised how tight the oil drain plug was. It was tough to loosen - hard to get leverage with the car sitting on it's wheels although can be done. Also the washer fell off in the drip pan. I probably wouldn't have thought to look for it except I had reviewed this thread prior to starting.

I actually jacked the left side to drain more oil out (also to rotate tires) - used 4 1/2 quarts and it's just slightly under full mark

lynn02

I did the first oil change today. I was a bit worried about getting the oil filter off. I bought the filter wrench and extensions as posted. I must say this was one of the easiest changes I've ever done. I wish my Jeep was that easy. Thanks again for posting the necessary tools.

Erin

Razz1

Here's a trick.

I usually start the car up in the morning and let it warm up 5 min max.

The car is not too hot to work on and there shouldn't be too much oil up in the can.

Usually two minutes work for me. Just enough to warm up the oil a little. It all drains out no problem. This way they can has been empty over night and the paper filter isn't completely saturated with oil which spills out when you take the can off.

I change mine eveery 3 to 5000 miles.

Dr. Rx

Just changed my oil today at exactly 5000 miles. Was easy, but I did spill lil bit of oil getting the filter off. Wiped it up, but did slightly stain the new engine...oh well. The torque specs for the oil pan drain plug is 21.7-28.9 ft-lbs. I tightened mine to 25.

Ninja

I'm posting it here, because some of you veteran oil changers will probably think these are dumb questions...

Be that as it may, I'd rather get the info than stay ignorant.

1. How do I locate the appropriate lift points for jacking up the front end of my 8?
(My shop manual hasn't arrived, but I want to change my oil this weekend.)

I understand there are two on each side, and someone told me there was a frame point or something I could put my jack on to lift the whole front end. I'd really appreciate this since I really DON"T want to lift on the wrong point.


2. Where do you take your used oil after your oil change?
(I don't think it's appropriate to throw it away in the garbage.)

Thanks,
-Dennis

Dr. Rx

Autozone takes used oil for recycling.

Chino075

1. Crawl underneath the car and you should see an empty slot where the top of the jack should fit neatly. Be careful not to jack it on the plastic covers, it will start bending and thats a no no (I realized it after a while and had to put it down and search for it).

2. Any gas station (that does oil changes and other services to cars) should have an oil recycle center. The one near my house, they had theirs on the ground where there was a big tank full of oil.

Al

Ninja

Thanks guys, oil changed with no mishaps.

I was a little worried about the lift points and the oil filter.

The lift point was pretty obvious once I looked at the jack and at the underside of each side of the car.

The oil filter was pretty easy with the filter wrench and two six inch extensions and a U joint on the end of the ratchet.

This first time took a little while because I didn't even know where the drain plug was. I guess if you plan to do your own maintenance, it's not a bad idea to spend a little time with the hardware.

It's funny, my last car (Honda Accord) I could care less about dropping it off at the dealership for service. This thing, I dropped it off at the dealer for something, and when I picked it up, I cringed thinking about them driving it over to me. My wife says I'm silly, but I know you guys understand!

Thanks again,
-Dennis

newcastle

iTrader: (3)

I'm hesitant on using the Fram PH6607 oil filter because of its small size (not enogh filter surface). i also read that someone used synthetic oil! It clearly states in the manual not to use synthetic. Thanks for the tips on the oil change syntrix, ill be changing my oil very soon (currently have 1200 miles)

SpacerX

I recommend either the Mobil-1 M108 or the Purolator PureOne PL14612. I've not read anything good in the literature (for both testing and specs) regarding the Fram and Fram-based filters. I use the PureOne -- half the cost of the Mobil-1, with all the performance (and about 50% more filter area, IIRC).

I recommend you check out some of the threads on synthetic oil use. Also, the manual states an oil specification (ILSAC and API ratings) and weight (5W20) to be used, but it does not specifically state not to use a synthetic oil... unless you're driving an '05, and they've changed the manual to say "no synthetics"??

At any rate, the term "synthetic" is more of a marketing term nowadays than anything else -- most of the oils marketed as "synthetic" are actually highly-refined mineral oils (group II, II+, III). To wit: I use Motorcraft 5W20, which is a "blended synthetic" oil. This oil is the same as Conoco's premium 5W20 mineral-based oil ("Hydroclear" is the name, IIRC). This oil is a "blend" of group II+, and group III mineral oils. Before Mobil lost it's lawsuit against Castrol (for their "Syntec" product), the term "synthetic" strictly referred to "group IV" purely man-made (non-mineral or "dino") oils. According to some posts on "theoildrop" forums, even some weights of Mobil-1 are now highly-refined mineral oils or blends. Generally, only the "boutique" synthetics, like Redline, Royal Purple, and Amsoil remain as "pure" synthetics.

Go with an oil that meets the specification in the manual, and you should be fine. Additionally, look for one that also meets not only the "Honda" but especially the "Ford" specification for 5W20 motor oil. The Ford spec is the most rigorous for the new 5W20 oils.

romulus

I did my third oil change. I did try mobil one M108 and Purolator PL14612 filters. I found no differences. I was about to get again mobil one filter but I decided to try Bosh 3300. As far I could tell, both filter are identical with the little device with the spring inside (I don't remember the name). But definetely with the fram filter does not have any. Also, the Bosh filter cost half of the price of the mobil one.

staticlag

Does the '05 manual really say "no synthetics"?

SpacerX

Rojr that. Same with me. I actually found, through research (I think the links to some articles are in one of my earlier posts), that the PureOne filters actually have a lot more filtration area than the Mobil-1 filters (of the same physical size and specific application). Also 1/2 the price of the Mobil-1.

In all the articles I've read, the Bosch filters were also highly-regarded.