nuke0907

iTrader: (2)

there's not really a bulb to change out.

Zelse

iTrader: (12)

Really? Thats what the service manager at my dealership had told me that it's not even a LED, that it's a bulb to remove. Have you done it before? I really want to avoid just putting a damn sticker to block the notification. :/

Ross_Dawg

iTrader: (2)

well technically there is... just a super small led. Only way to see of you can disable/take out/cover the tpms light is to get back there and check it out. Sounds like it only takes a max of 15 mins to pull out the cluster.

Edit: just saw your post. That is definitely a led back there.

Zelse

iTrader: (12)

Yeah I think I'll give it a shot and remove it. The service tech though said if I unplug the cluster, I need to get my car to service to have them hook it up to the special mazda computer and redo the configuration as nothing will work right...

nuke0907

iTrader: (2)

its an LED you have to un-solder from the circuit board.

Zelse

iTrader: (12)

Ugh...Seriously? :/ I can't just crack it or something and break that ****.. lol. I really hate this light but want to do it the cleanest way possible.

Vaillant

After listening to the stupid gauge pod rattle for far too long, I finally did something about it today. These instructions were very helpful, so I'm happy to say the rattle is now gone.

Thanks for the DIY!

~ Matt

Zelse

iTrader: (12)

I got recommended by the service manager to pull off the plastic cover over the gauge cluster...and color in over the clear part that displays the tire pressure gauge with a black perma marker... thoughts?

rudiau

OK, call me as dumb as dog doohy, but i can't work out from the final image where the hell the o rings go. Are they the red dots or the three lines (two of which are the connectors).
And how do you keep them in place.

rudiau

Ok, worked it out from other threads.
For others who might be a bit confused, the o rings are the red dots, they are placed there to be padding between the instrument cluster and the plastic body it sits in.
Look at the last image posted by magixpuma at the beginning of this thread.
Didn't work for me so i have a problem elsewhere.

BTW i found if you lift the cluster upwards and then pull it towards you, it comes out a lot easier.

After trolling around the threads for a day here is a summary of things to look for when you have a dash board rattle.

Usually found by pushing, prodding or applying slight preesure.
Check
Outside drivers door handle (i'm RHD so i guess i'll check both).
Demister vent.
Small vents above the circular one.
Siver rings on the cluster gauges.
Volume ****.
Centre steering wheel. (pull on rear lip of the horn/airbag cover).
Plastic covers behind steering wheel.
Push and prod in between door and dash by the round air vent.

Known Cures
Remove coins in coin holder.
Remove or add foam/dynamat to the drivers and/or passengers door(two foam blocks come loose and rub together inside the door).
Push back thin metal behind brake rotors.
Loose nut/bolt on steering column.

Many thanks to the many members who have contributed to these lists.

rudiau

YAY, i found my rattle, it was the airbag/horn cover on the steering wheel.
Putting upward pressure on the back lip of the cover eliminated the rattle.

Now, how to fix. i have read the service manual and safety warnings, but.......not game.
Might let the dealer do it, depending on what he wants to charge, might give me incentive to find my kahuna's.

In the meantime i have packed a wadding of a few folds of leather in between the lip and steering wheel body.

Anyone else taken off the airbag/horn assembly, any real worries of it going off if you follow the service manual.

Chad D.

iTrader: (19)

I have a similar rattle in the plastic abs cover and I am very interested in how to properly fix it.
For now I just turn up the stereo.

rudiau

OK, finally had a go at removing the airbag/horn cover. Piece of cake. Just follow the manual.
Cut out three pieces of leather about 2-2.5cm in diameter.
Used a paper hole punch to cut holes in the two top ones. The bottom one doesn't need it.
Dab of supa glue to hold them in place.
Put it all back together, making sure the guides go thru the newly cut "washers".
RATTLE GONE.

jumpman5272

I didn't disconnect the battery before removing the cluster, now my rx-8 stalls at every stop sign or traffic light, i have to put it in neutral and press the gas pedal to keep the revs at 2,000 so the car won't stall again. I've double check the connection and everything seems to be ok, any advise please.

Daeity

iTrader: (1)

scribed for when i change the dash lights

Nopstnz8

iTrader: (6)

Looking to hit up Home Depot later today... Does anyone know the proper O-Ring sizes that are needed?

Nopstnz8

iTrader: (6)

So I'm finally planning to do this tomorrow if time permits. I picked up two sets of assorted O-rings at Home Depot in the plumbing section and plan to place these in the proper spots, but am now wondering if these are the right kind since someone earlier stated the O-rings are relatively soft? I don't want to do this whole procedure if I have the wrong materials to start with. The rattle is horrible though because all over town on the crappy roads, my gauge cluster rattles like hell! Lol.

blu3dragon

iTrader: (1)

Did this over the holidays on my SII. I could shake the instrument pod up and down by hand. It is a little disappointing they have not fixed this after making the car for 6 years...

I didn't have any appropriate o rings to hand so rolled up some 3M Adhesive Putty and used that instead. Positioning of the o ring at the top also did not seem obvious to me. Instead I put a length of putty between the top edge of the cluster and where it meets the dash. After putting it back together I used a credit card to push any visible putty out of sight. I also used some putty on the red light cover and on the panel that pops out below the wheel since they all had some free play.

No rattles now :-) Make a big difference over rough surfaces and well worth the hour it took me.

poppinparker

Good stuff, do you know how to remove the dash panel it sits in?

Rx68.niou1

i have the same problem but i did disconnect the battery. what to do

rotaryrocket11

Is it possible to swap the entire cluster for another one? I was wondering if I could swap the 4AT cluster for the 6MT one so I can see the engine rev beyond 9000rpm.

WaitingforFI

iTrader: (1)

If you have a AT you will hit fuel cut off well before 9,000 RPM unless you use a AP to remove the limiter.

rotaryrocket11

Yup that's what I'm intending to do with the AP. It's kinda nice as well to have a tacho that reads up to 10,000 RPM. It's more for aesthetic purposes. But my question here is whether such a swap will be an easy plug and play. I'm afraid of the cluster having issues getting the correct speed, revs and fuel level on the cluster.

Legot

iTrader: (1)

Wow, old thread. Switching with an MT cluster is ok, and it will work for what you need. You'll loose the PRNDL that you have on your AT dash, but the id's for each of the dash components remain the same for the MT and AT. The fuel level isn't even a digital gauge, it just relies on a direct connection to the tank level sensor.

I'm going to warn you once. The rev limit's on both the MT and the AT RX8 are not because the engine can't handle more (that is the reason for the limiter on a piston engine). It is there to protect occupants from the possibility of the sudden destruction of the transmission. There is a very real possibility of the Torque Converter (AT), or the Flywheel(?) (MT) blowing up and sending shrapnel into the driver and passenger.

Don't raise the limits on the AT. You're taking a serious risk.

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

deserves a revival.... this was far easier than what I had imagined. dunno if this is a sticky (found it via search)... should be if it isn't.