TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

80% is a totally absurd statement

Jcola

well I don't know if you cleaned it already, but I have the same year car with an AT. All I have to say is that I am pretty sure that AT rx8's tend to idle a bit more rough then the MT. When you go to rev up the engine it is running a lot smoother then idle making the ticking go away. As soon as you go to an idle or throw it in drive or reverse the rough idle is what makes the tick. so all in all I'd say its a normal condition with AT's.

Aston177

I haven't. I decided to live with it I'll probably replace it once I save up some cash. Yeah ATs do idle rough. By rough you mean RPM fluctuating or just vibration at idle? My car has a lot of vibration at idle when in D or Reverse. Ive even changed the engine mounts. No luck.

Jcola

you really have no need to replace your ssv as long as it still works. Unless you want to upgrade to the more powerful ssv they sell. I just start by cleaning it, it really doesn't take long a half a day at most. My car idles rough at idle in D or R mainly like sitting at a red lights or something some days its rough and other days it's smooth as butter......idk. My car also just had a brand new engine put it 1k miles ago and it still really didn't fix the problem. I will say that the rough, shaky idle was worse on my old engine though.

you can also replace your coils and spark plugs and also clean your MAF. It might help as far as rough idle goes.

john.carpenter

I have a 2004 with an automatic transmission with the original SSV valve. I have decided to replace the part with an updated part and I noticed that there are two part numbers listed by dealers, a N3H5-20-160E and a N3H5-20-160F. The difference in price between the two is about $70. Anybody know what the difference is? Is the "F" version of the part a later revision?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

unless the actuator plate is loose on the shaft end then replacing it is a waste of money IMO since the difference is a lot more than $70 between replacing vs not

I still run the original SSV and have never had an issue ...

__mahatma

i followed this procedure and did it, everything was smooth till i hard to put it back, the top long screw isnt screwing very tight and i dont know what to do, Nice thread and Good information, thanks everyone. Will appreciate if i could get a reply on what to do next

RotorScream

So right now as we speak, I am trying to get the thermostat lower housing off, I got the bolt, the only one shown in the video but mine wont pull off like depicted. When I move the thermostat the engine and all rocks; meaning its connected somewhere, but im not seeing in in the video. Any insight?

Thanks in advance.

CustomMSP

iTrader: (7)

Hey. Could anyone comment on the end plate seal leakage after cleaning? Mine doesn't seem to be very tight around the shaft with 85k miles on the clock after cleaning it all up. It would definitely suck if this thing ends up leaking air. Maybe I'm overthinking this as the valve itself probably creates a good seal in the manifold?

jcbrx8

After t-shooting the actuator, switch, & solenoid; just successfully removed, cleaned & reassembled my SSV. P2070 CEL cleared & 8 is running like a top again, ;-). Attaching pre / post pics of the IM SSV housing…forgot to take pre/post pics of the valve. Yet again...appreciate all those willing to share your knowledge & experience to help us maintain, enhance, & enjoy our 8s.

AMCsellout?

It looks like I'll be removing my SSV. I've cleaned it twice w/ throttle body/intake manifold cleaner, and once it dries the valve won't budge. I had to remove UMI again to spray cleaner on valve as a lubricant and work the valve by hand from the actuator linkage. The valve is shiny and clean but I think the buildup may have run to the sides of the SSV and then dries there causing the valve to become immobile. Any ideas how to fix this w/o removing SSV?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

The very 1st time I encountered a seized SSV I did the same thing, sprayed the valve from the top of the LIM until it was clean looking (from up top) and I was able to move it. But it didn't take long for it to seize again.
That is why I decided to pull the valve and is also why I created this thread. You really need to remove the valve to get all the way around it and the housing.

AMCsellout?

Thanks for your reply and this thread. I'll be removing the SSV tomorrow and your invaluable video is what will make that possible. Thanks for all the info!

Mrqng

Nice video Jon, i have a similar problem with my rx8, been making a knocking noise which started half way through my 1hr journey. I have checked the ssv and the lever moves freely but can't find the other valves, it's giving me a P2259 please can you point me in the right..

Choppastyle

I figured out how to change the solenoids in 10-15 minutes with a 9 inch ice pick, a flashlight and zip tie

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Well many people don’t realize that the UIM can be unbolted and removed separate of the oil vent-fill/vacuum tank assembly underneath it. Because if you’re not careful the small diameter solenoid connector wiring becomes brittle with age and can be damaged easily.

.

STEENSCO000

Dude I had to fiber this out on my own! This video is great. Thanks so much and keep up the good work 👍

rob babicki

location pic?

L337fpc

iTrader: (4)

Blog post on this...



I also have the TSB on up on my blog as well. Good luck cleaning your carbon buildup.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

you shouldn’t be doing that without stuffing rags or shop towels down into the lower runners and then swapping them out every so often to keep any of that from getting to inside the engine

motodenta

True that also it helps to replace two M6 bolts with Alen/ Hex key bolts.

motodenta