Chamberlin

iTrader: (1)

Nah, pics aren't necessary for this one, just read carefully - you'll see....good luck

alfy28

cool looks like i have something to do this weekend.

Taz Ismail

Hi, I've got the same viberation in my car for like last few weeks and i think its due to the engine mounts.
My question is that does it effect any other parts if i don't change it?

drchris6000

Ok, so now I have this problem on my 04, time to replace the mounts. But on Ebay the parts are about 3 times as expensive as this post says they were in 07. Really? That seems odd, anyone have any idea where I can get these at a reasonable price?

Race Roots

iTrader: (64)

Mazda prices have changed dramatically over the years, Ignition coils for example used to be ~$30 MSRP now they are in $50+ range per coil

maskedferret

iTrader: (1)

Jacking the motor up from the bottom, is there anything that needs to be disconnected prior to moving the motor itself? For example, depending on how much it needs to be moved, I can see it possibly necessary to disconnect an AEM CAI (nothing else of aftermarket significance in my case). And yes, I already see that removing the strut brace is not necessary.

Chamberlin

iTrader: (1)

For as much as it needs to be lifted (not much), there shouldn't be anything else to worry about when lifting the motor to install the mounts-

Bigbacon

iTrader: (4)

people really need to take photos when they write a DIY....

Chamberlin

iTrader: (1)

As long as you can write half-way decent, (which I can), I don't think pictures or crayon drawings are obligatory for every DIY. Read it through a few times, visualize it, and go do it. Just be happy people are willing to share their experiences for your benefit. Further, not everyone is a photographer. I have seen plenty of DIY's that are made more complicated by crappy and confusing photos, with little text to support them.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Just my 2 cents
Your DIY depends entirely on the TSB which at the very least you should have provided a link or better yet a copy in pdf format.

HERE: http://www.finishlineperformance.com...21-06-1559.pdf

Without seeing the TSB diagram I can understand why people want you to post pics.

Once you have seen the TSB it is as you say pretty straight forward and not requiring pictures as you've indicated.

I'm removing the RH motor mount in order to remove the exhaust header. I'm having a real bitch of time removing the "Engine Mount Bracket-to-Engine Mount (1)" and the "Engine mount-to-front sub frame (3)"

I've had no success with a 1/2 or 3/8 breaker bars .... I've resorted to soaking the culprits in liquid wrench over night.
The mount looks fine so I'm not really wanting to apply any heat however I maybe reduced to this solution and just replace both motor mounts.

I have one cautionary note.
It is helpful to remove the brake line bracket as indicate in post #1 for access HOWEVER....
You must be careful not to crimp or bend the metal brake line .... I came dangerously close to this when using the 1/2" breaker bar (johnson bar)

Would appreciate any assistance on removing those stubborn bolts.

redline86

iTrader: (7)

I am having the same problem, I can't get bolt 1 off. The rubber just twist in place along with the bolt. I've used breaker bars, even my big air compressor wouldn't take it off. Going to try soaking them in liquid wrench, if that doesn't work, I'm just going to cut through the rubber to get them off. My mounts must have been bad if I can get the rubber to flex that much. The rubber is so soft I can almost get a half turn on bolt 1 but of course since the rubber is moving with it the bolt isn't really spinning. I've never had this much trouble from stupid mount. It's been a love hate relationship with my baby lately.

manicdk

I'm thinking of just replacing the passenger side on my 05 AT. seems like a waste to replace all those other parts and quoted $440 at the stealership.

Faria

this is actually very easy.. bought Motor mounts... used a jack and peice of wood to lift motor.. .. Done and Done.. swap was Clean.

Taz Ismail

Hi,
My driver side engine mount is broken and was going to change it anyways...i was just wondering what is the difference between the driver and passenger side mounts. And can i use the same mounts on both sides....cuz my dealer here doesn't know a damn about the mounts and he is saying that both are the same and can be used on either sides.

Grimm0ne

iTrader: (3)

i'd find a different dealer, mazda list two different part numbers, and they may look the same, but i dont think you can swap ether or.

Bigbacon

iTrader: (4)

well......I may be tackling this. Dealer just said my are toasted. they wnt like 650 bucks (parts + labor)

yikes.

lchaidez

I just did mine a few days ago. Took me about 1.5 hours for both sides. Once you do one, the other is even quicker. On a scale of 1 to 10 with difficulty, i'd have to say 3 - with the right tools. It's not very hard at all and access to the mounts is very simple. If you switch out the entire bracket then its more time, difficulty may raise a bit because its a tight area to work in.

Good luck!

Bigbacon

iTrader: (4)

im only doing the mounts, I may not even do those as I may not even have the car that much longer.