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Old 06-17-2007, 07:54 PM   #1
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DIY: Motor Mounts installation tips

Didn't see any reference to the motor mounts in the sticky index, so I figured I'd share my experience today replacing my motor mounts... I realize that most people who need new mounts have already had them replaced by the dealer.... but, I hate the dealer, and I got all 3 upgrade parts for $150 shipped, so I said what the heck... I have also replaced my starter with the new more powerful one, and I did the coil packs yesterday. Again, I got all these parts new, off of eBay, nice and cheap and no dealer B.S.

You will need a cherry picker engine lift for best results and safety.
There are three official parts as part of the TSB, the right and left motor mounts (made with a new style of rubber) and the right side engine bracket (it has a heat shield to protect the mount from excess manifold heat).

Simply jack your car up on the front, put your jack stands in place on the frame rails, and remove the front wheels.

Now remove the strut tower brace to allow access for the cherry picker hook on the main engine lift eyelet. Drop your cherry picker in there, hook in, and take some of the weight of the motor off of the frame (not too much!).

Unbolt the brake line support bracket (one 10mm bolt per side) to make your life a TON easier.

Now follow the TSB's instructions on the order of removal of the associated bolts...
Note, that the sheet talks about the bolts labled (2) on the driver's side, that in fact, do NOT need to be removed...as I found out... the ones labled (2) on the passenger side however, DO get pulled, so the whole bracket can come out and replaced.

Once all the bolts are removed on both sides of the car, now you can carefully raise the engine further with the cherry picker and note that you will need to get it at least high enough to clear the motor mounts of their frame mounted studs.

Now just pull out each motor mount - they will just be sitting there waiting for you...nothing special here.

Now pull all the 17mm bolts holding on the right side bracket and fenagle the bracket out of the suspension arms etc...

Replace the bracket with the new style one, and bolt back up.

Install the new motor mounts and insert and finger tighten all three bolts/nuts
on each side.

Once all the nuts and bolts are started, you can lower the engine back down a little, but not all the way.... you just want to allow for better alignment of the bolts and parts while you torque them down.

Crank down all those 14mm bolts and nuts, and then you can lower and unhook the cherry picker.

Reinstall the brake line support bolts.

Reinstall the wheels.

Drop car, test drive and notice less vibration...

To check before and after vibration (in 6sp manual) just try to put the shifter in reverse without using the clutch (obviously it won't go, but feel the level of shuddering).

Cheers

-C
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Last edited by Chamberlin; 06-17-2007 at 11:37 PM. Reason: added pic of new mounts
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Old 06-24-2007, 11:03 PM   #2
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great write up. could you write one on how to replace coils?
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Old 06-24-2007, 11:08 PM   #3
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Sure I can - it was really easy, shouldn't take but a few lines of text...
Thanks for the good words...

-C
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Old 06-28-2007, 03:18 PM   #4
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most of us use a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan to lift the motor one side at a time rather than a cherry picker
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Old 06-28-2007, 03:20 PM   #5
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Nice writeup chamberlin!!!
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Old 06-28-2007, 03:36 PM   #6
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Thanks Cromax!
Team, that would work great too with the wood blocks and jack. I had access to a picker, and never had to think about a work around...

-C
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Old 07-02-2007, 12:57 AM   #7
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heads up, there are some new mounts from the same guy I got mine from on eBay!

cheers
-C
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Old 08-06-2007, 01:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamRX8 View Post
most of us use a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan to lift the motor one side at a time rather than a cherry picker

I changed out mine yesterday using what you did. worked like a charm! heck I think it was easier than doing my fc t2 mounts.
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Old 08-06-2007, 01:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
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most of us use a jack and a piece of wood under the oil pan to lift the motor one side at a time rather than a cherry picker
+1 on that, though using the engine lift is safer.
I usually use the jack/blocks method because I don't have a huge garage and moving the engine lift around is a PITA.
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Old 08-06-2007, 01:45 PM   #10
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hahaha, the giant PIA heavy assed engine lift is still in my living room!!! My friend hasn't come and picked it up yet... price I pay for free tool usage!
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Old 08-06-2007, 02:01 PM   #11
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I did the opposite. I lent my hoist to a friend and I'm hoping he'll hang on to it until I need it again!
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Old 08-06-2007, 03:21 PM   #12
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I think that is what is going on here too
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Old 07-17-2008, 05:52 PM   #13
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very well written. =]
im too much of a newbie to attempt this by myself, afraid of doing something wrong. Today I called a dealer that is located a few minutes from my house and they want to charge me $500 just for labor :o
Do you think I should buy the motor mounts and have a mechanic install it for me?
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Old 07-17-2008, 08:16 PM   #14
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Thanks!
I would think you should be able to get it done for much less than $500....show the mechanic this DIY...
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Old 02-17-2009, 02:52 PM   #15
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Sorry for resurrecting this, but does anyone know where the best place to get these from is? Montgomery Mazda? Should I order the mounts shown for the '08 or '04-'07 (to go on an '04.) I assume it's the same part, as it's the same exact price ($109.62 for the R.)
Also, when was the engine bracket upgraded? I can't find it on the Mont site.
Thanks.
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Old 02-18-2009, 12:59 PM   #16
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If you are jacking up from the bottom, would you still have to remove the strut-brace?
Does removing the Strut Brace mess up the alignment?

Why do you have to remove the wheels? Is it too hard to access the parts otherwise?

I had dealer quotes of $170 and $225 for the labor on this in case anyone is interested. I bought the parts from Rosenthal Mazda for about $180.

Last edited by Matt RX8; 02-18-2009 at 01:34 PM.
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Old 02-18-2009, 06:52 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt RX8 View Post
If you are jacking up from the bottom, would you still have to remove the strut-brace?
no.
Quote:
Does removing the Strut Brace mess up the alignment?
no.
Quote:
Why do you have to remove the wheels?
to get to the motor mounts.
Quote:
Is it too hard to access the parts otherwise?
yes.
Quote:
I had dealer quotes of $170 and $225 for the labor on this in case anyone is interested. I bought the parts from Rosenthal Mazda for about $180.
congratulations.
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Old 02-19-2009, 09:58 AM   #18
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^Thanks for answering the questions.
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Old 02-19-2009, 06:42 PM   #19
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^yw
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Old 02-19-2009, 11:08 PM   #20
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So the parts arrived today and as it turns out, I I failed to order the new engine bracket. Is that part absolutely critical or should i just replace the mounts that I have?

And is this really a 30 minute job without a cherry picker?

It's very cold here in Illinois. My garage doesn't have heat
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Old 06-29-2009, 11:05 PM   #21
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Any updates? I'm gonna do this, do i need the engine mount brackets updated as well? Whats decent price for all three mounts?
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Old 06-29-2009, 11:07 PM   #22
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The bracket is really just a heat shield for protecting the rubber mounts, it would be nice to have it. I think I paid $150 for everything. Not much else to update, from my original posts and the posts that followed.
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Old 06-29-2009, 11:58 PM   #23
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So the bracket is an update over what I have stock on my 04'? Sorry for the questions I have not really looked at the mounts.

So I need two of these right?

http://www.finishlineperformance.com.../rx8_mount.jpg
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Last edited by 9krpmrx8; 06-30-2009 at 12:03 AM.
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Old 06-30-2009, 12:01 AM   #24
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If you look in the top picture, I think the only difference is that the new aluminum bracket has the ability to have the dinky black metal heat shield tabs mounted to it... So yes it is an update over your '04, but probably not worth sweating over.
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Old 06-30-2009, 12:03 AM   #25
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I just wonder if i should get new brackets too.
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Old 06-30-2009, 12:03 AM
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