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Old 06-18-2011, 01:58 AM   #601
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lol so I had a worst hot start ever today. Any ideas? I went for a drive, hit 8k 2x. Then drove to my parents house, parked it for about 5 minutes and when I went to turn it on it would not turn on. I had to try it 4 times. It never did that.
had a compression test lately?
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Old 06-21-2011, 09:47 AM   #602
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had a compression test lately?
no lol but that was just that time, weird. I havent driven the car as much since I did the seafoam cause ive been working from home. I still get some white smoke when I start it in the AM. How long till it should go away? I maybe drove the car 3 times this month. Im going to try to drive it for a while today.
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Old 07-01-2011, 10:10 AM   #603
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Awesome

Thanks for this detailed guide.
Used it today and now my engine is silky smooth.
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Old 07-04-2011, 02:29 AM   #604
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I made a DIY video. It was kind of impromptu so it's not great, but if you're having questions about locations and such, this will definitely help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdIGJbUJdv0
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Old 07-13-2011, 09:52 PM   #605
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Since my car has 130k on it, and I don't know if this has EVER been done, I ran 2 tanks of gas with a can of seafoam in the tank- about a week apart, to help loosen some of the crud. I noticed improvement with each tank of seafoam and I didn't want a big chunk to break off and not dissolve in this process.

Tonight I peeled away another layer of the ozone all by myself :D It was like I set a small village on fire- I opened the sunroof to see all this smoke just engulfing the car, hahah! It was epic. I did warn the neighbors ahead of time to shut their doors and windows. Great DIY, followed instructions exactly (with seafoam not the zoom cleaner), amazing results. Feels like a whole new car.
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Old 07-15-2011, 11:27 PM   #606
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The CEL is normal, its from the sensors being unplugged. It should go away in a day or 2.
Hmm.. is it a # of on/off cycles to get it to go away?? I have a CEL that's been bugging me, and I wonder how long I should wait to have the code read, or will disconnecting the battery reset it?
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Old 07-16-2011, 02:15 AM   #607
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Hmm.. is it a # of on/off cycles to get it to go away?? I have a CEL that's been bugging me, and I wonder how long I should wait to have the code read, or will disconnecting the battery reset it?
I would get it read by an autozone or equivalent tommrrow. It most likely is from the e-shaft sensor being disconnected, though it could be an 02 sensor failure, or anything else.

Good luck!
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Old 07-16-2011, 07:32 PM   #608
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rear o2 sensor

and eccentric shaft sensor. Aren't you a Miss Cleo, lol!
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Old 07-17-2011, 08:36 AM   #609
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rear o2 sensor

and eccentric shaft sensor. Aren't you a Miss Cleo, lol!
I have my moments! if you reset your ECU you should be ok. You might need to reset your e-shaft profile using the 20 brake pedal method.
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Old 07-31-2011, 03:51 PM   #610
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It is said this procedure is for engines models from 04-08, in other words these instructions are not for the Renesis? Is this true?
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Old 07-31-2011, 11:08 PM   #611
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It is said this procedure is for engines models from 04-08, in other words these instructions are not for the Renesis? Is this true?
It doesn't matter what year you have, you still have a Renesis. Just varies from Series 1 or series 2. 09 and later are series 2. I have an 04 which is a series 1 renesis. Do some reseach on your car, people around here expect you to be able to find things for yourself and not ask redundant questions that are all over this forum. They will either flame you, or ignore you. There is an entire section dedicated to series 2. If you have a 09+ then your renesis has a different oil injection system so this thread probably won't apply to you. I wouldn't know for sure.
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Old 08-04-2011, 03:58 PM   #612
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Hey has anyone here ever hosed down their engine. I've done it before to clean other types of engines *achoo pistons*...but I'm reluctant to do it with the 8. Attempted once..but kinda pussed out. Anything I should know before I soak that sucker?
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Old 08-22-2011, 05:46 PM   #613
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Not a good idea to just remove the plug wires. You need to disable ignition and fuel injection and this does not do that. As an alternative to removing the ES Position Sensor Connector, I believe you can remove all the EGI fuses (3?) in the main fuse box to accomplish the same thing as removing the ES connector.

Another way to access the ES Position Sensor Connector is from under the car. Jack up the left side of the car, install jack stand, crawl under the car and reach up in front of the engine and remove the connector by "pinching" the top of the connector and pulling up on it. Works for me. However, if you have "fat" hands you may not be able to use this approach.
Can I get someone to verify the thing about the fuses? I don't see any way how I would be able unplug the ESPS without 1.) taking so long the engine would already be cool, or 2.) getting burned in the process.

Disconnecting 3 fuses would make this whole thing infinitely more simple.

EDIT: I disconnected the 3 smaller fuses and gave it a shot and the car wouldn't even crank(I guess its called turning over??). Does this mean that this method won't work or was I supposed to disconnect the large EGI fuse and two of the smaller ones?

Last edited by Darkning; 08-22-2011 at 06:37 PM.
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Old 08-23-2011, 08:20 AM   #614
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You can pull the ESPS off the block with one bolt. I found that a lot easier than unplugging it.
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Old 08-24-2011, 12:21 PM   #615
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You can pull the ESPS off the block with one bolt. I found that a lot easier than unplugging it.
You mean unbolt it and then unplug it(easier access)? Or would just unbolting it do the trick?
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Old 08-25-2011, 02:03 PM   #616
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Just unbolting it should do the trick, but if you want to be extra sure and unplug it, unbolting it first does make it a lot easier to unplug.
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:02 PM   #617
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What is the size diameter tube do I need to get the tube over the nipples? I am planning on doing this on Friday.
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Old 09-03-2011, 05:42 PM   #618
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Seafoam appears to be on sale at advance auto parts.
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Old 11-08-2011, 02:17 PM   #619
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So I flooded my engine yesterday, and got it going after 25 minutes of cranking//deflooding.

The engine seems kinda 'not all there' for some reason now. It idles just fine, but doesnt rev as fast/its not as strong.
Just wondering if this could help my situation here... I mean, why not?

Its an 07 with 50k miles, and to my knowledge, has never been seafoamed or has had new plugs.
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Old 11-09-2011, 08:06 AM   #620
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Probably time for new plugs then (and maybe coils and wires.) It's generally accepted around here that plugs should be replaced well before Mazda's recommended service interval.
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Old 11-09-2011, 10:43 AM   #621
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Probably time for new plugs then (and maybe coils and wires.) It's generally accepted around here that plugs should be replaced well before Mazda's recommended service interval.
Agreed. I'll work on the plugs.
Do you think seafoaming is a good idea right now?
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Old 11-10-2011, 10:19 AM   #622
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Do you think seafoaming is a good idea right now?
I do. Seafoaming shouldn't do anything to the plugs, but in the unlikely case it does, or you end up flooding, having a fresh set of plugs on hand isn't a bad thing.
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Old 11-10-2011, 01:45 PM   #623
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Thanks, this sounds like fun.
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Old 11-13-2011, 09:31 PM   #624
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Lol look at that sexy smoke ring she blew out
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DIY: Mazda Zoom Power Engine Cleaner (Engine Cleaning, Seaform)-capture.jpg  
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:19 AM   #625
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Waiting for coils and wires to come in to go with the new plugs I just got. I plan on seafoaming it as well, but should I do the seafoam with the old plugs new wires new coils? Or just put all the new stuff on and go with it. I figured I might as well do it with the old ones to just start completely fresh with the new plugs, but if it isnt necessary it will save me some time.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 01-23-2012, 08:19 AM
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