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DIY: Mazda Zoom Power Engine Cleaner (Engine Cleaning, Seaform)

Old 04-07-2014, 10:10 AM
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Distilled water is usually 89 or 99 cents a gallon at the grocery store. Just suck down the whole gallon with the car running. Like this:


Originally Posted by paimon.soror
So I did my decarb today. Managed to get both rotors at the same time using the the T line setup from the S2 (from the oil neck to T fitting to LIM service nipples). Got a whole gallon through. No smoking which is good (you shouldn't smoke if you are doing water i read). Going to do an oil change tomorrow.


https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.n...91903645_n.jpg

https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/...26408698_n.jpg

https://scontent-a-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/...65304607_n.jpg

You need to do an oil change afterwards, so you may want to only do this right before a normal scheduled oil change.


Here is another video of my complete setup. This one was using windshield washer fluid (water/meth) as one of the chemicals to test, but it did perform well. Use distilled water the same way.

That first T connector is important, as you do NOT want solid water in that line. That T allows the engine to suck in water and air into the line, which then foams up for a better mix.

Last edited by RIWWP; 04-07-2014 at 10:15 AM.
Old 04-07-2014, 10:51 AM
  #727  
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Sorry in advanced if I sound redundant and ask a question you clearly already explained. I see the set up but am not 100% clear on how it all goes together since I only used a simple 1 hose system to go to each nipple at a time. I see that your using a splitter to put the water in both nipples at the same time and then it goes to the distilled water. Is that correct? Then there is another T line where you also are ingesting air into the mix.

Also do you have any idea why my engine isn't sucking up the mixture when I tried decarbing yesterday? This is my third time doing it since I've had the car.

Thanks for pointing out not to do the distilled water decarb before I am ready for an oil change. I would have been in big trouble if I didn't know that.

Attached is a look inside one of my rotor housings. My 8 is only at 65k miles 2005. Not sure if it should look that bad at only 65k miles or not.
Attached Thumbnails DIY: Mazda Zoom Power Engine Cleaner (Engine Cleaning, Seaform)-img_3902.jpg   DIY: Mazda Zoom Power Engine Cleaner (Engine Cleaning, Seaform)-img_3904.jpg   DIY: Mazda Zoom Power Engine Cleaner (Engine Cleaning, Seaform)-img_3908.jpg  
Old 04-07-2014, 11:06 AM
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In order to move liquid, there has to be a pressure difference. Basically, the ambient air pressure has to exceed the engine low pressure (vacuum) enough to lift the fluid through the hose. All sorts of things could mean a lower vacuum in the LIM, or a lower air pressure, or too much weight for the pressure difference to overcome.


Yes, the contraption has 2 T fittings in it. One end has equal length 'feet', one for each LIM service port. The other end has one longer for the liquid (needs to get to the bottom of the container), and one shorter to just pick up some air to mix in. The length between them should be 4+ feet, enough to allow you to sit the gallon of water in your passenger seat while you keep the engine between 1,500-2,500rpm. The engine WILL stall if you try to let it idle, so you need to stay on the throttle to keep the revs up a bit. Too high up and the ECU will interrupt the throttle input after a few seconds, and will drop the engine to idle. It was idling fine in my video because of the fuel content in the water/meth (methanol).
Old 04-07-2014, 01:20 PM
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hope it will go will with you , personally i used such materail with my old car and was okay.
Old 05-24-2014, 06:22 PM
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Hi everyone,

I have a ’06 with 60K on it. I had the engine replaced at 40K. So, it has now 20K miles on it. I have the impression that I need a decarb. The car is not as quick as day 1, but this is not THE ‘loss of power’ symptom either. Everything is working fine, I have a new cat, new coils and I done the SSV cleanup recently.

The problem is with the new engine, I have two vacuum lines that start from the nipples and goes to a ‘T’ and to the oil filler. I am wondering if I can simply put the seafoam from that vaccum line and do both rotors at the time. Furthermore, can I use that vaccum line to have oil suck into the manifold when I start the engine after it sit for 1 hour? Do I have to use 2 cycle oil or just normal engine oil?

Pardon me if those questions sound stupid, but I never did a decarb in the past.
Old 05-25-2014, 08:34 AM
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you got that hose because you have a 06, it comes with newer updated Ventilation kit.

I wouldn't use those because you never know which port suck more/less of the cleaner.
Old 05-26-2014, 09:19 AM
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I should really start asking people to put a link to this original thread, lots of peeps use my guide and made their own Youtube Video, but all of those video were such a joke, shaky camera, broken speech, Argh.
Old 07-26-2014, 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by shydevil
can i load my Antithief map from my cobb instead of unpugg my ESP Senser? cause the connector i still cannot remove it out!


Posted from Rx8club.com App for Android
Use pliers and some force. The clip is hard to press down with your hands.
Old 07-26-2014, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by madsenj37
Use pliers and some force. The clip is hard to press down with your hands.
cuz you "press down" at the wrong spot.

using a tool will almost always break the clip, might damage the connector too.
Old 09-10-2014, 01:05 PM
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Is that true? Isn't that the SSV line ? Would that de-carb/ clean the SSV instead?

Last edited by vX-2; 09-10-2014 at 01:07 PM.
Old 09-25-2014, 11:36 AM
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I don't mean to bring up a dead thread, is there an easier way to unplug the ESPS plug also? I'm not having any luck so far... WD-40?
Old 09-26-2014, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by vX-2






Is that true? Isn't that the SSV line ? Would that de-carb/ clean the SSV instead?
SSV does not move unless engine is on, so spray it into the intake and turn it on doesnt do ****. You have to take it out to clean the stick up carbon found inside the LIM

the de-carb stuff is not electronics friendly and hope that idiot (there are a lot of smartasses out there really) didn't **** anything else up. oh but when things go bad it's always the car's fault not the stupid owner, right ?

Originally Posted by vX-2
I don't mean to bring up a dead thread, is there an easier way to unplug the ESPS plug also? I'm not having any luck so far... WD-40?
You need to do it at the right angle where u can actually apply force to the locking tab. cuz at some angle you can touch the plug but can't use any force on the tab. (on top of the car btw)

it's easier if you can go under the car, but I always take EPS plug off on top of the car.
Old 05-23-2015, 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by topolittle
Hi everyone,

I have a ’06 with 60K on it. I had the engine replaced at 40K. So, it has now 20K miles on it. I have the impression that I need a decarb. The car is not as quick as day 1, but this is not THE ‘loss of power’ symptom either. Everything is working fine, I have a new cat, new coils and I done the SSV cleanup recently.

The problem is with the new engine, I have two vacuum lines that start from the nipples and goes to a ‘T’ and to the oil filler. I am wondering if I can simply put the seafoam from that vaccum line and do both rotors at the time. Furthermore, can I use that vaccum line to have oil suck into the manifold when I start the engine after it sit for 1 hour? Do I have to use 2 cycle oil or just normal engine oil?

Pardon me if those questions sound stupid, but I never did a decarb in the past.
Thread resurrection!

I have an '04 that received a reman engine. The newer engine also has this T from the nipples that goes to the oil filler. Is there any safe way to decarb this engine?
Old 06-05-2015, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by exarkun
Thread resurrection!

I have an '04 that received a reman engine. The newer engine also has this T from the nipples that goes to the oil filler. Is there any safe way to decarb this engine?
Old 07-02-2015, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by exarkun
Thread resurrection!

I have an '04 that received a reman engine. The newer engine also has this T from the nipples that goes to the oil filler. Is there any safe way to decarb this engine?
Anyone?
Old 07-03-2015, 10:21 AM
  #741  
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u mean u have the updated SSV kit.

Well, yes u can, but the distribution will not be even, so it's better to do one at a time.
Old 07-15-2016, 04:31 PM
  #742  
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Anyone know why Mazda discontinued the zoom zoom clean.
My engine has 114k and compression has dropped to 5. across both rotors. before dropping the cash for a remanufactured core I'd like to try this,, if I can get a can.
Old 07-16-2016, 11:52 AM
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just use some Seafoam.
Old 07-17-2016, 08:44 AM
  #744  
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Originally Posted by Jedi54
just use some Seafoam.
Reading up on the subject Sea Foam strips the oil from the rotor walls, where as Mazda's cleaner does not. And in doing do can damage the engine further. not looking to do more harm. l

Thanks anyway.
Old 07-17-2016, 05:02 PM
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Is Mazda part # 5555-08-008A the same as the discontinued Mazda part #
0000-77-A86?
Old 11-24-2016, 09:30 AM
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Hey guys. can I use this instead of mazda zoom zoom or seafoam since I cannot find them both in pakistan.
https://www.amazon.de/LM-5111-Pro-Li.../dp/B00295D7T0
Also Will i need to soak up quarter cup oil into each nipple after im done pushing in the spray ?
Sorry for resurrecting the thread but This thread got me hooked i read like 70% of the replies.
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