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DIY: Lower Steering Shaft U-Joint Replacement

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Old 03-11-2013, 10:07 PM
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MMMnn..

Mike, I just cant find that NB boot right now..I will have another quick look?

EDit...No go?
Old 03-11-2013, 10:43 PM
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Well, I started wondering if the 99's prior owner had added it, so I went out to check my replacement NB, and it's on that one too. There is a ton of parts in the way on the MSM with the turbo and piping, but got an angle for a camera. Validated that it is a rubber boot by feel.

(pic link removed)

Just up and left from the washerbottle (washed out in the flash), just down from the actuator. Lots of components to look past, had to hold a coolant line out of the way.

Last edited by RIWWP; 03-12-2013 at 07:56 AM.
Old 03-11-2013, 11:00 PM
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Sorry I cant locate that well with your pic?

I am wondering if this boot or cover comes with the NB U-Joint?

Leave it with me..
Old 03-12-2013, 08:00 AM
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Here are three more pics pulled from the web. Boot around the u-joint is clear. Each was posted in a Miata forum:
http://www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depow...ering_rack.jpg
http://www.cheapsportscar.net/images/DSCN1829.jpg
http://www.stlcg.com/SM/SteeringAngle2.gif
Old 03-12-2013, 11:18 AM
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Well, looks like i'll be getting my hands on that boot. Nice pics!
Old 03-12-2013, 04:44 PM
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Yep, NB Miata , boot comes with u-joint..ONLY.
Attached Thumbnails DIY: Lower Steering Shaft U-Joint Replacement-nc10.jpg  
Old 03-12-2013, 05:03 PM
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Mystery solved
Old 06-05-2013, 01:15 PM
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Question, could this cause the power steering to go out?
Like when I first pull out of a parking with the wheel turned, the front end feels lumpy like a have a low / flat tire, and sometimes it pops, but after that, it's all normal. Also, recently the power steering went out, and cleaning and replacing the harness haven't helped. Replacing the harness helped for like a month tops.
Old 06-06-2013, 02:04 AM
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can this be the main source of intermittent power steering loss?
Old 06-06-2013, 06:48 AM
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No, both of those sound electrical. This, being mechanical, won't be intermittent..
Old 06-06-2013, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by reddozen
Question, could this cause the power steering to go out?
Like when I first pull out of a parking with the wheel turned, the front end feels lumpy like a have a low / flat tire, and sometimes it pops, but after that, it's all normal. Also, recently the power steering went out, and cleaning and replacing the harness haven't helped. Replacing the harness helped for like a month tops.
What you are describing is exactly the issue I was having. It is the universal joint. Get it replaced and all your issues go away.
Old 03-27-2014, 12:48 PM
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I know this is old but i believe to resolve the DSC issue, you must relearn the steering angle sensor.






Warning
• Unless the initialization procedure of the steering angle sensor is completed, the DSC will not operate, causing an unexpected accident. Therefore, always perform the initialization procedure to ensure DSC operation if the power supply to the steering angle sensor has been cut off due to disconnection of the steering angle sensor connector or negative battery cable, or any other cause.

Note
• The steering angle sensor requires battery power to store the steering angle initial position. Therefore when the battery power supply is cut off, a stored steering angle initial position is cleared.


1. Inspect the wheel alignment, inflation pressure, and the installation condition of the steering wheel.
• If there is any malfunction, adjust the applicable part.

2. Connect the negative battery cable.

3. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.

4. Confirm that the DSC indicator light illuminates and that the DSC OFF light flashes.

5. Turn the steering wheel to full right lock, then turn it to full left lock.

6. Confirm that the DSC OFF light goes out.

7. Turn the ignition switch off.

8. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position again, and confirm that the DSC indicator light goes out.

• If the DSC indicator light does not go out, disconnect the negative battery cable, and perform the procedure again starting from Step 2 shown above.
9. Drive the vehicle for approx. 10 min, and confirm that the ABS warning and DSC indicator lights do not illuminate
Old 03-27-2014, 12:52 PM
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Yes, that was never in question. Since you have to disconnect the battery before unplugging the airbag connectors, re-learning of the DSC is required anyway. If you do that procedure with the steering off-center, then it will re-learn the profile wrongly, and produce the situation that I warned against. If you just opt to not re-learn the steering profile or disable the DSC permanently, the problem won't manifest.
Old 03-27-2014, 12:55 PM
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If you dont relearn the DSC profile, the light will stay on and be disabled by itself. No?
Old 03-27-2014, 12:57 PM
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Yes, that's what I'm saying. If you don't re-learn the steering profile, then DSC will remain off, and therefore DSC can't decide to suddenly try to pitch the car into a guardrail because it sees something wrong.

The problem I ran into wasn't that I didn't have DSC.

The problem was that I DID have DSC, and I DID re-learn the steering profile, but my steering was NOT centered. That is what set up the conditions for the near accident. If any one of those 3 statements was not true, the problem would not have occurred.
Old 03-27-2014, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
Yes, that's what I'm saying. If you don't re-learn the steering profile, then DSC will remain off, and therefore DSC can't decide to suddenly try to pitch the car into a guardrail because it sees something wrong.

The problem I ran into wasn't that I didn't have DSC.

The problem was that I DID have DSC, and I DID re-learn the steering profile, but my steering was NOT centered. That is what set up the conditions for the near accident. If any one of those 3 statements was not true, the problem would not have occurred.
gotcha, im going through a simliar issue where i just replaced my rack and need to better center my wheel. I will get a full alignment which i would hope fix any issues that happened to you with the false engagment
Old 03-27-2014, 01:19 PM
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A toe problem from a rack replacement would have to be really severe to trigger DSC incorrectly like that. My steering wheel was off center by about 25-30 degrees.
Old 03-27-2014, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
A toe problem from a rack replacement would have to be really severe to trigger DSC incorrectly like that. My steering wheel was off center by about 25-30 degrees.
That is what doesnt make sense to me, i tied down the steering wheel when i did the swap, centered the rack per the old one i took out and my wheel is off to about 10 o'clock but the car goes straight
Old 03-27-2014, 02:11 PM
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It sounds to me like the steering rack you put in wasn't centered. Like, it got to you with some angle already in it, so when you connected the wheel, it resulted in being off. So the steering wheel teeth are off vs the rack teeth. Sounds like you need to set the wheels straight, then disconnect the u-joint at the rack, then center the steering wheel and re-connect.
Old 03-27-2014, 03:22 PM
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That is what i planned on doing even though i know i wont get the wheels perfectly straight to the steering wheel angle, the alignment will correct that but i need to get it as close as possible.

Last edited by EuroTech; 03-27-2014 at 03:54 PM.
Old 03-27-2014, 03:31 PM
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yup. Get the rack and steering centered as much as possible through teeth adjustment first, and only then get the alignment.
Old 05-19-2016, 04:42 PM
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This DIY was very helpful to me. The last time I had to install a lower u-joint the column had a slip-joint in it. That meant the column didn't have to come out, so a step-by-step procedure to remove the RX8's saved me some time.

The joint did take some pounding to get out, because it was rusty, but a good assortment of the right tools will really help. Getting the joint off the column is made pretty easy if you have a chisel you can pound in the collar to spread it. Then I pounded a punch between the end of the shaft and the joint. Took almost no time.

The other end of the joint was more difficult for me. As long as you can get the right angle, though, some sort of punch or pry bar should do the trick.

The old joint was in worse shape than I expected. I'm glad I did it.

My steering wheel is off by a very, very small amount. I tried removing the steering wheel and rotating it one spline (the steering angle sensor seems to be attached to the wheel, thankfully), but now it's off in the other direction. I will have to get it aligned, but I'm leaving for the track tomorrow so I'll probably have to deal with it this weekend. I shut off DSC on the track anyway.
Old 06-27-2016, 03:00 AM
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Glad to find this thread, I just put in a strong newer 4 port engine (35,000 miles) in a 2004 GT from a base and did it with removing the front subframe so disconnected the steering shaft now it's off center like has been mentioned.

I test drove it and at first it was working well but the obvious off center steering wheel was a bother then I was playing with the DSC switch at a light as the skid control light was illuminated on my dash and wanted to shut it off and once I made my turn the car actually virtually locked up on up shift and locked up my rear wheels and would only shift if I shifted under 5000 RPM's. I was suspicious for several reasons as this engine transmission combo was questionable when I bought the car, the engine is strong and fresh but the tranny was suspect according to the previous owner who said it was having nonspecific issues, I test drove it and it only had some delay in up-shifting from 3rd to 4th and the dealer had told them it needed replacement so I got it on the cheap and the interior and engine were perfect so they were my primary concern, it has been a perfect parts car helping me refurbish almost 3 cars, it was a base and a rebuilt title so engine swap material.

I never considered the transmission as I was going to use the same one in the GT but then decided to leave after I noticed they had over filled it and the dealer was not likely to tell them that instead opting to sell them a new one. With it being over-filled it would have issues with upshifting not having a place for the fluid to flow and over pressuring the system potentially preventing valves from closing or opening so decided to take a chance on proper fluid levels and drained some before install and also put in some flush I'm going to drain and refill also inspecting screen and such at the same time.

Now however I have these issues so besides the DSC which is no doubt part of my problem as I'm reading, can anyone tell me if there is any difference of the base model auto versus the GT? Or is it strictly software that is within the ECU? And what about the wiring harness? I know this thread is about the steering and DSC so please be gentle but in some way they are potentially related to my issues it seems and I need to work out if that's the case or not and found no other threads on this topic?

BTW tonight I decided to try it again only with the DSC off and initially it revved up ok until I went to upshift again 1st to 2nd and it locked up (presumably braking after reading this thread) and then it went into limp home mode and no shifting allowed and no gears being displayed on the dash and the AT light illuminated. It has gotten progressively worse in just a matter of a few miles driving over a couple of test drives until it is now in limp mode. While I was resigned to changing the transmission to the original which is also suspect and needs some love and unknown quantity. Having said that, now I'm more leaning towards centering the steering and starting over with that first but questions are still regarding the wiring harness and software or hardware differences between base model and a GT if I should need to go to plan b? If anyone can answer this I'd be very appreciative as auto boxes are admittedly not my specialty, not that any transmissions are for that matter . Regards in advance.

Last edited by FunRun8; 06-27-2016 at 03:05 AM.
Old 06-28-2016, 01:26 PM
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No responses? I have re-adjusted the steering wheel yesterday and it's certain it was part of the problem but unable to test drive as now I've concluded there is most definitely additional distinct issues with the tranny as it immediately goes into limp mode and I have some items that obviously need tending to on that regard after doing some more searches and finally getting a code on it as a starting point.

Last edited by FunRun8; 07-07-2016 at 01:15 AM.
Old 07-07-2016, 01:17 AM
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Wow! Have I stumped the Rx8 club gurus on here or is it something more nefarious going on? Had to tend to an unexpected diesel break down with my truck so haven't done anything with my 8 for a few days and expected to come back and get all sorts of good advice? None to be had?


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