DIY: How to change your rear brake pads.
#101
Hi just wanted to know if these wheels and tires will fit on my rx8 ?
http://www.readywheels.com/wheel-and-tire-packages.html
amy
http://www.readywheels.com/wheel-and-tire-packages.html
amy
#102
just changed my break pads as my rear pads were worn down. i might say great DIY! i must note though (im not sure if it has already been noted), some breaks with shims/spacers/backplates already on they might make fitment too tight, its best to remove them or you could damage your breaks/rotor.
#103
I just finished this on Sunday and it turned into a marathon. Every single bolt was siezed up tighter than a snare drum. I got em done though. I put anti sieze on the braket bolts so that they don't give me any trouble next time.
If I didn't have to work on every bolt for 30 minutes it would've been a walk in the park.
If I didn't have to work on every bolt for 30 minutes it would've been a walk in the park.
#104
Girls who drive stick FTW
iTrader: (1)
Sorry for the bump but my rear pads are pretty worn and planning on changing them soon. I have a few questions though. After the install, do you need to "bed" them ?? If so how ??
Also is there any anti squeal gel that needs to be applied ?? I know in Zumnrx8s DIY he didnt use any ??
Last thing, how do you know if your rotors need to be replaced ?? Someone said if you put your finger around the edge and if you feel a lip that they need to be replaced ??? Is that true cause all four of my rotors have that . I dont want to have to replace all 4.. its expensiveeeee..
Any help id really appreciate thanks.
Also is there any anti squeal gel that needs to be applied ?? I know in Zumnrx8s DIY he didnt use any ??
Last thing, how do you know if your rotors need to be replaced ?? Someone said if you put your finger around the edge and if you feel a lip that they need to be replaced ??? Is that true cause all four of my rotors have that . I dont want to have to replace all 4.. its expensiveeeee..
Any help id really appreciate thanks.
#105
Project Seca
iTrader: (10)
Sorry for the bump but my rear pads are pretty worn and planning on changing them soon. I have a few questions though. After the install, do you need to "bed" them ?? If so how ??
Also is there any anti squeal gel that needs to be applied ?? I know in Zumnrx8s DIY he didnt use any ??
Last thing, how do you know if your rotors need to be replaced ?? Someone said if you put your finger around the edge and if you feel a lip that they need to be replaced ??? Is that true cause all four of my rotors have that . I dont want to have to replace all 4.. its expensiveeeee..
Any help id really appreciate thanks.
Also is there any anti squeal gel that needs to be applied ?? I know in Zumnrx8s DIY he didnt use any ??
Last thing, how do you know if your rotors need to be replaced ?? Someone said if you put your finger around the edge and if you feel a lip that they need to be replaced ??? Is that true cause all four of my rotors have that . I dont want to have to replace all 4.. its expensiveeeee..
Any help id really appreciate thanks.
i didnt use any anti-squeal. and i dont have any squealing.
if you feel a lip, you might need to. you could possibly get lucky and get your rotors resurfaced if they have enough life in them that you can do that. most places like your dealership or tire places will do it for anywhere between $150-$180 for a full brake job (per axle) that includes brake pads, resurfacing of the rotors, and installation. if you take them off yourself they might do them for $15-$25 per rotor if they have enough life to. With rates like that if they need to be resurfaced its cheaper and easier to just take it and let them do all the work with a full brake job. to keep the headache off of you. because knock on wood anything happens and its found that your brakes were at fault, most places warranty their work. just something to consider
#106
Sorry for the bump but my rear pads are pretty worn and planning on changing them soon. I have a few questions though. After the install, do you need to "bed" them ?? If so how ??
Also is there any anti squeal gel that needs to be applied ?? I know in Zumnrx8s DIY he didnt use any ??
Last thing, how do you know if your rotors need to be replaced ?? Someone said if you put your finger around the edge and if you feel a lip that they need to be replaced ??? Is that true cause all four of my rotors have that . I dont want to have to replace all 4.. its expensiveeeee..
Any help id really appreciate thanks.
Also is there any anti squeal gel that needs to be applied ?? I know in Zumnrx8s DIY he didnt use any ??
Last thing, how do you know if your rotors need to be replaced ?? Someone said if you put your finger around the edge and if you feel a lip that they need to be replaced ??? Is that true cause all four of my rotors have that . I dont want to have to replace all 4.. its expensiveeeee..
Any help id really appreciate thanks.
If you do the brake job yourself, there are going to be some anti-rattle metal slips that come with your brakes. When I put my brakes on, I was unable to make enough room for the metal slips, so I had to leave them off. This has had no negative consequences for me so far (3k miles later). If the brakes ever start making sounds, I will throw them on at that point, but for now, don't worry bout them and just toss them in a baggy in your tool chest.
#107
Project Seca
iTrader: (10)
I agree with all that Xero said and wanted to add some things.
If you do the brake job yourself, there are going to be some anti-rattle metal slips that come with your brakes. When I put my brakes on, I was unable to make enough room for the metal slips, so I had to leave them off. This has had no negative consequences for me so far (3k miles later). If the brakes ever start making sounds, I will throw them on at that point, but for now, don't worry bout them and just toss them in a baggy in your tool chest.
If you do the brake job yourself, there are going to be some anti-rattle metal slips that come with your brakes. When I put my brakes on, I was unable to make enough room for the metal slips, so I had to leave them off. This has had no negative consequences for me so far (3k miles later). If the brakes ever start making sounds, I will throw them on at that point, but for now, don't worry bout them and just toss them in a baggy in your tool chest.
play it safe. hear a noise? check it out. cant figure it out? take it to someone who can. its not worth your life.
#108
Charles Bundy
iTrader: (5)
Here's a very informative post everyone should take time and read: BRAKE FAQ
#111
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Ok thanks for the picture. That helped. I guess the nipple has to go to the end of the groove to get 'locked' in place. So either one of the two grooves would work? and the nipple is actually going to the end of the groove not exactly the vertical center of the cross right?
#112
Registered Zoom Zoomer
iTrader: (2)
The "+" grooves are simply there to facilitate 'locking in' the head of the piston retraction tool and thereby the torque required to wind them back into their housings. As long as the tool head locks in, regardless of orientation, you're all set, and just wind in as far as it will go to provide the space needed for the new thicker pads.
Again, for the front pads you don't need a special tool, either a hefty slip joint pliers or a 'D' clamp will do.
Again, for the front pads you don't need a special tool, either a hefty slip joint pliers or a 'D' clamp will do.
Ok thanks for the picture. That helped. I guess the nipple has to go to the end of the groove to get 'locked' in place. So either one of the two grooves would work? and the nipple is actually going to the end of the groove not exactly the vertical center of the cross right?
#113
Registered
iTrader: (2)
The "+" grooves are simply there to facilitate 'locking in' the head of the piston retraction tool and thereby the torque required to wind them back into their housings. As long as the tool head locks in, regardless of orientation, you're all set, and just wind in as far as it will go to provide the space needed for the new thicker pads.
Again, for the front pads you don't need a special tool, either a hefty slip joint pliers or a 'D' clamp will do.
Again, for the front pads you don't need a special tool, either a hefty slip joint pliers or a 'D' clamp will do.
#115
Registered Zoom Zoomer
iTrader: (2)
There's no "locking" of the pads themselves (not necessary and would make their removal more difficult). Again, the "+" grooves in the piston head are there for the retraction tool. The caliper is simply a hydraulic anvil-piston action squeezing the free floating pads against the rotor.
#116
Registered
iTrader: (2)
but why would us want to align the "+" to the nipple on the pad? (lol I can't stop asking..)
I did it the past weekend for the rear pads. It turned out the pads are almost brand new. I guess the noise I get is from the front.. Also whatever lubricant the previous owner used on the brake just stick the caliper and the shim together, made the job much harder.. The noise is still there. Maybe it's from the front. Gotta go lube the front another day..
I did it the past weekend for the rear pads. It turned out the pads are almost brand new. I guess the noise I get is from the front.. Also whatever lubricant the previous owner used on the brake just stick the caliper and the shim together, made the job much harder.. The noise is still there. Maybe it's from the front. Gotta go lube the front another day..
#117
Help Caliper Piston is a bitch!!
The driver caliper piston side does not want to depress!!! Its really hard to turn clockwise, it really stiff! I've been going clockwise for 5 min and it does not go back. What am I doing wrong?
#118
Charles Bundy
iTrader: (5)
Could you check if your E-Brake lever is engaged and did you move the vehicle; if so, did you press and hold down the brake pedal before turning the engine off? Try to clean the area surrounding the piston well. I, too, had a problem turning the piston clockwise on my driver side. It felt seized but it took me more than 15 minutes before the piston turned when I changed mine for the first time. Furthermore, I was using a rubber mallet and large flat head screw driver and a 12 inch C-Clamp helped turn the piston clockwise. I think that helped me a lot. You really have to apply some force if this is the first time it's being replaced.
You're likely on the right track, nevertheless, here's a link for you view so you don't feel you've missed something in the DIY. DISC PAD REPLACEMENT.
You're likely on the right track, nevertheless, here's a link for you view so you don't feel you've missed something in the DIY. DISC PAD REPLACEMENT.
Last edited by Grace_Excel; 07-16-2011 at 01:38 PM. Reason: Added a link.
#119
Help!!!
I gave UP! Took it to the dealership and had them put on new brake pads on my rear driver side only. They also resurfaced the rotors free of charge. Now there a new problem, I left the dealership right after they close. I drove for a few miles and then I started to smell smoke. I pull over and noticed that the rotor were EXTREMLY HOT and smelled the burning brake pads. What the hell did they do? They seem to have put the bake pads on too tight, is that possible? HELP PLEASE!!! Its a bad day for me already.
#120
Registered Zoom Zoomer
iTrader: (2)
Make sure your e-brake isn't partially engaged. They could have inadvertently installed duplicate shims I s'pose, otherwise no there's no "too tight" as the pads simply float in the channels. Perhaps they couldn't fully retract the piston either and jammed the pads in there? Pretty irresponsible if so, but at least you have a recourse.
I gave UP! Took it to the dealership and had them put on new brake pads on my rear driver side only. They also resurfaced the rotors free of charge. Now there a new problem, I left the dealership right after they close. I drove for a few miles and then I started to smell smoke. I pull over and noticed that the rotor were EXTREMLY HOT and smelled the burning brake pads. What the hell did they do? They seem to have put the bake pads on too tight, is that possible? HELP PLEASE!!! Its a bad day for me already.
#122
Super Moderator
It is not normal for your disc rotors to glow red when you leave a dealership at all...if that is what you are referring to
I agree with Huey...
And whoever worked on your car at the Dealership should be sacked..as it is Totally unacceptable, every brake job should be test driven.
Fecking Lawn Mower Mechanics!!!
#123
Charles Bundy
iTrader: (5)
His subjective statement of "EXTREMELY HOT" doesn't mean glowing red if the only sign it presented is based on the "burning smell". Did 'smurfy' here physically touch the rotors that caused him to have third degree burns? Because extreme(ly) hot objects will fry any tissue it comes in contact with. Did 'smurfy' here mention any visual inspection that the rotors are glowing RED, such as what other members have stated about "glowing cats"? It's just like 'smurfy' here going into a buffet restaurant and say that it smells "OBESE".
The problem here is that 'smurfy' here is so irrate and probably said: 'I had it up to here' and could be exaggerating anything of this problem. 'Smurfy', show "EXTREMELY HOT" or it never happened... 'ASH8', don't be too grumpy!!!
The problem here is that 'smurfy' here is so irrate and probably said: 'I had it up to here' and could be exaggerating anything of this problem. 'Smurfy', show "EXTREMELY HOT" or it never happened... 'ASH8', don't be too grumpy!!!
Last edited by Grace_Excel; 07-17-2011 at 11:40 PM.
#124
Super Moderator
His subjective statement of "EXTREMELY HOT" doesn't mean glowing red if the only sign it presented is based on the "burning smell". Did 'smurfy' here physically touch the rotors that caused him to have third degree burns? Because extreme(ly) hot objects will fry any tissue it comes in contact with. Did 'smurfy' here mention any visual inspection that the rotors are glowing RED, such as what other members have stated about "glowing cats"? It's just like 'smurfy' here going into a buffet restaurant and say that it smells "OBESE".
The problem here is that 'smurfy' here is so irrate and probably said: 'I had it up to here' and could be exaggerating anything of this problem. 'Smurfy', show "EXTREMELY HOT" or it never happened... 'ASH8', don't be too grumpy!!!
The problem here is that 'smurfy' here is so irrate and probably said: 'I had it up to here' and could be exaggerating anything of this problem. 'Smurfy', show "EXTREMELY HOT" or it never happened... 'ASH8', don't be too grumpy!!!
#125
Registered
iTrader: (2)
so...a dumb question...is our e-brake adjustable?
I meant my brake pads are fine, but my e brake is weaker than my like. In fact there was once I didn't pull it hard enough so it rolled in the parking lot lol it was actually funny now I think about it. Anyway on the other car of mine I couldn't figure out a way to get my e-brake stronger, so I don't know if the rx8 is the same.
I meant my brake pads are fine, but my e brake is weaker than my like. In fact there was once I didn't pull it hard enough so it rolled in the parking lot lol it was actually funny now I think about it. Anyway on the other car of mine I couldn't figure out a way to get my e-brake stronger, so I don't know if the rx8 is the same.