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With meguiars heavy duty headlight restoration kit 30.00 at any auto store
Steps
1. Sand headlights with provided 1000 grit paper, I added water while sanding...but follow directions!!!!
2. Sand headlights with 3000 grit, again I added water.
3. Use corded drill with provided buff tool and plastx, buff while going in circular motion.
4. Add protectant and your done, but can't stress enough to follow directions and watch some vids on YouTube.
Pretty cool. Did you apply any sealant afterwards? I've been wanting to do this to mine as well.. headlights are looking pretty dull and ruining the look of the car. Wonder how long it's supposed to last before you have to do it again...
The protectant cream feels like when the rain hits it, it will bead off...I haven't driven the car it's In my garage waiting for the new motor rebuild, so I'm just doing little odd things here and there...I also did the carbon fiber wrap on the silver console trim....looks way better then the mazda speed one, IMO!!
I had great results from using just four grades of sandpaper and then the cheap-o headlight lens restorer from Walmart, the blue stuff. Started with 800, then 1000, 1500, and finally 3000. I kept water dripping on it constantly. No power tools required. The taillights were difficult because of all the contour, but it's still possible and effective, and it lasts much longer than any other method I've tried.
I used Meguiars last summer and it started to fog after 6months..
I used toothpaste last May and its still doing good .
I don't mind doing it every 6 months or less.
Its quick and cheap..no need to apply tapes.
I used toothbrush..
I used toothpaste, a lint free rag and water to achieve the same results. $2.50 versus $30. Just saying.
Toothpaste has an unknown (and uneven) grit level and the ingredients in it are questionable on poly-carbonate lenses. Sodium fluoride iron, sugars, etc don't react well to poly-carbonate especially in heat and to UVA/UVB from the sun and the bulbs.
The grit in toothpaste is designed to be a abrasive cleanser for plaque, and will obvious help oxidized lenses to a certain extent.
A 2000 grit wet sand paper and PlastX (or ScratchX) will cost less than $10. The abrasives are consistent and the results will definitely be better. PlastX/ScratchX is designed to be worked by hand, so there is no necessity for a cutting/polishing pad and a machine.
The important part is resealing the fresh layer of poly-carbonate with a synthetic sealant.
Old thread bump for those doing corona time at home! I just transformed my 14 yo headlight lenses that were yellowing with a crusty top layer. After many YouTube vids I settled on wet/dry sandpaper starting with 600/800/1200/1500/2000/3000 (keep it wet with a water spray bottle) then onto a Polish pad on cordless drill with regular polish. Looked like new. Then sealed by Hand with Nulon synthetic polish. A quick spray with 303 protection for the UV stabisation. Had everything at home already so it cost me zero outlay. Wow what a difference it makes! Next onto the leather seats and trim.
And it is always safer with good headlights inside a dark garage!! (COVID19 specific comment)
Originally Posted by XDragon8
Old thread bump for those doing corona time at home! I just transformed my 14 yo headlight lenses that were yellowing with a crusty top layer. After many YouTube vids I settled on wet/dry sandpaper starting with 600/800/1200/1500/2000/3000 (keep it wet with a water spray bottle) then onto a Polish pad on cordless drill with regular polish. Looked like new. Then sealed by Hand with Nulon synthetic polish. A quick spray with 303 protection for the UV stabisation. Had everything at home already so it cost me zero outlay. Wow what a difference it makes! Next onto the leather seats and trim.
LoL I have never even driven this car at night!
Just couldn't stand the poor looking lenses when looking into her eyes!
I did have a spare set in case I killed them tho, now they are the better set!!
Highly recommend this mod for older cars.
***** Refurb of my headlamp plastic covers........of my 2008 45.000 mls RX-8 HP. - sanding rough to remove the complete hard UV layer - sanding fine - polishing rough - polishing fine - 3 layers of 2 component clear coating to restore the UV protection Any 2K clear lacquer will work fine. 2K is better as 1K since it is more resistant against uv radiation, moisture, grease, fuel, road salt etc. The immediate application after restoring the brightness of the lamps is important because this 2K lacquer will keep the lamps clear for 5-15 years(dependent upon number of layers), whereas without this protective layer the oxidation of the uncovered plastic material will start immediately after the polishing treatment.....within a couple of months the first signs are visible. As an example I used the next 2K lacquer where both components are stored in the spraycan and are mixed just before starting spraying by an ingenious system.
How do 2K spray cans work? In the bottom of the aerosol is a pressure valve made, to which an aluminum tube is attached with the curing agent in the bottom. This ensures that the paint and hardener carefully separated. With the red push button is the seal of the hardener tube can be opened, so that both components can be mixed. After mixing, the created 2K paint is to be processed for at least 24 hours. Depending on environmental conditions (temperature), this can also be much longer, but 24 hours is guaranteed. (At 2K Primer is the guaranteed processing time is 8 hours).
As a part time detailer I don't reccomend sealing with clear coats for polished headlights. They aren't meant to do the job properly. I prefer PPF, ceramic, or both.
Best vid on the topic (he doesn't use ceramic but it is a popular option now):
05-04-2014, 03:59 PM
