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DIY: Gutting out your Catalytic Converter

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Old 07-14-2014, 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Grace_Excel
It can be a fire hazard specially if it is clogged. I have spoken with another owner at a gas station awhile back and his engine caught on fire primarily because of a clogged cat.

ricocase, if both heat and rust contributed to the destruction of your heat shield I would consider looking at your Cat-converter, it surely terrified you, at least. Then when you've saved enough, have your ignition system replaced. Advanced Auto Discount Codes. I used these last year, not sure if all or some will apply to this year.

The coupons (which do not stack):

20% off sitewide via code "P20"
$10 off orders of $30 or more; $25 off $70 or more; $40 off $110 or more via code "A124"
$20 off $50 or more via code "ES123"
$30 off $90 or more via code "HUGE30"
$40 off $100 or more via code "TRT41" "DOW19"
$50 off $175 or more via code "HUGE50"
I recently did the plugs, wires, coils.
Old 07-14-2014, 01:56 AM
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Wow, if those codes are still valid, that's a decent discount!
Old 07-14-2014, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Ricocase
I recently did the plugs, wires, coils.
Your next step should be the Cat-converter, take it out and stomp the header end down-vertically and check for dust or pieces dislodge from the packing inside. That's a sure way to tell that it is clogged.

Originally Posted by StealthTL
Wow, if those codes are still valid, that's a decent discount!
Yes, they are. Specially when you purchase both sets of coils and spark plugs, tallies down to less than $200.

Addendum: I went to their site just to try the codes and it still works... Plus, free shipping!
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Last edited by Grace_Excel; 07-14-2014 at 02:05 PM. Reason: Added a picture
Old 07-14-2014, 04:25 PM
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I don't have jack stands. This car is pretty much the most fun car I've ever had... and I hate driving but I'm getting major repair anxiety... Though its been minor so far.
Old 07-14-2014, 05:12 PM
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Jack it up take your front right wheel off and slide it under the frame so if the jack falls it is supported by the tire. It taksa a 14mm and 15 mm to pull the bolts.
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Old 07-19-2014, 02:12 AM
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OK so I'm good on the plugs and the wires. Probably about 2000 miles on those if that. But what if I get a cat from advance auto?

Walker Direct-Fit Converter 55531: Order best Catalytic Converter at Advance Auto Parts
Old 07-19-2014, 07:41 AM
  #157  
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Even though it says direct fit, the Walker is not compliant with current emissions standards, so it may possibly fail a sniffer test. Plus most experienced members say they will not hold up to the extreme heat of the 8's exhaust.
I bought one to pass what hopefully is a visual only inspection. I didn't know it wasn't compliant until I read the fine print. In fact I'm installing mine today & when/if I pass I'll be reinstalling my BHR pipe ASAP.
You'd probably be better served to save up to buy an OEM cat if you have to have a cat, or a BHR midpipe to eliminate the possibility of damaging your engine from a failed cat altogether.
Old 07-19-2014, 09:42 AM
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I live in Michigan. We don't have the standards just yet but if I ever move... then that cost is immediate. I think I need something to get me from point A to B while I try to save for one. I'm not sure how I would get caught or anything but I just think if I can buy a cheap one to last me for a few months to a year I might be Ok. This is tough because they have a 5 year warranty. I can offset the cost by selling my other one for scrap metal. Be back on the road again but for how long I guess.
Old 07-19-2014, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Ricocase
I live in Michigan. We don't have the standards just yet but if I ever move... then that cost is immediate. I think I need something to get me from point A to B while I try to save for one. I'm not sure how I would get caught or anything but I just think if I can buy a cheap one to last me for a few months to a year I might be Ok. This is tough because they have a 5 year warranty. I can offset the cost by selling my other one for scrap metal. Be back on the road again but for how long I guess.
You might be wasting money if it melts. If you have a bad cat you still have the problem that caused it & could ruin a new one very quickly. Warranties probably have fine print that say defects from manufacturer only, not misfires.
Your best bet imo is to check it, if it's bad, gut it, or buy a midpipe.
Old 07-19-2014, 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by BigCajun
You might be wasting money if it melts. If you have a bad cat you still have the problem that caused it & could ruin a new one very quickly. Warranties probably have fine print that say defects from manufacturer only, not misfires.
Your best bet imo is to check it, if it's bad, gut it, or buy a midpipe.
well I think it is clogged. No misfires. I recently changed the plugs, wires, coils. But I don't know
Old 07-19-2014, 12:54 PM
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I am almost forced to gut it. I don't race so what's a good cheap but operable midpipe
Old 07-19-2014, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Ricocase
I am almost forced to gut it. I don't race so what's a good cheap but operable midpipe
Pretty sure there is no "good cheap" midpipe.
Gut your present cat if it's bad & save for a BHR. Don't take my word for it, do a little searching & judge for yourself.
Btw, I just got my BHR off & other than discoloration it looks brand new after 1 1/2 years.
I'm reading the Walker warranty now & it says "manufacturer assumes no liability for converter failures related to engine not maintained to proper operating conditions."
Which basically is the only time they fail, so it's worthless.
Old 07-19-2014, 04:03 PM
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Ok, an fyi for anyone pondering the Walker cat;
Just finished installing mine, which will stay on just long enough to try to get it inspected, mine did not come with hardware for the rear flange.
Luckily I had some spring bolts & nuts that I had scavenged in the past, so that's one possible problem fixed.
Also, the hanger is way too fat to slip into the OEM rubber hanger, & again I had a different rubber hanger handy that worked, so two possible problems averted. Fit's ok, sound's ok, though kind of tinny in the cheap resonator.
Old 07-20-2014, 02:14 PM
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So I gotta man up and take xanax or something to get under my car so I can check out the cat. But I can only imagine how hard it will be to get off with all the rust.
Old 07-24-2014, 01:17 PM
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What about the Magnaflow one? does that one melt too?
Old 07-24-2014, 08:24 PM
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Here is a quote I dug up in an older thread:
Originally Posted by bse50
Aftermarket catalyzers don't last long because of the heat we create. You should buy a very expensive one for it to last. Magnaflow, flowmaster etc are among the list of those who fail quickly. Just sayin'.
HJS' are nice but with the current exchange rate they're super expensive.
For 600$ your options are mainly 2: Buy a davesport catalyzer (Cheap, should last long enough though) and have it welded on your stock midpipe or buy a "performance" midpipe with said catalyzer already welded on it. Blackhaloracing.com offers the latter, davesport catalyzers alone can be googled
I have been through 6 different catalytic converters before settling with the one used by ReAmemiya and\or HJS products for track use but Davesport products really surprised me on NA rx8s!
Anything besides the OEM Cat-Converter will eventually melt with in a month or two. In the U.S., the OEM is warranted for 8 years or 80,000 miles, which ever comes first. I don't remember if you mentioned what year your car is. But, if you fall within that guideline, the dealer may help you with the expense if the OEM Cat-Converter is clogged.
Old 07-24-2014, 11:03 PM
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This is not fair at all LOL.
Old 07-25-2014, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Ricocase
This is not fair at all LOL.
Well, if you're not... I guess back to square one! Start crawling
Old 07-31-2014, 11:06 PM
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What if you could cut it open and take the stuff out? Any guides on doing that?
Old 08-01-2014, 01:19 AM
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If the packing have loosened, it should be easy to hollow out(best way to remove that). I would not cut it open unless you know a shop who could do it and weld them back together. I you are insisting of doing that, you might as well just have a muffler shop cut out that part and weld in place of it a 2.5" pipe where the Cat- converter was.
Old 08-01-2014, 01:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Grace_Excel
If the packing have loosened, it should be easy to hollow out(best way to remove that). I would not cut it open unless you know a shop who could do it and weld them back together. I you are insisting of doing that, you might as well just have a muffler shop cut out that part and weld in place of it a 2.5" pipe where the Cat- converter was.
someone told me a shop would cut it out and weld it together for 50 bucks. what is the downside of that?
Old 08-01-2014, 03:28 AM
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Nothing, like all gutted Cat, it will sound loud and nauxious.
Old 08-01-2014, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Grace_Excel
Nothing, like all gutted Cat, it will sound loud and nauxious.
how loud? like get pulled over and ticketed loud?
Old 08-01-2014, 11:02 AM
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With the stock exhaust muffler it wouldn't be. Check out video clips in YouTube of RX-8s with gutted cat or midpipe with stock exhaust. Some of them are in this thread a few pages back.
Old 08-06-2014, 10:00 AM
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Hey all, would like to share my experience with gutting my cat. First off, thank you very much to Rotorocks for the DIY for this!


A brief history:


I have a '05 Rx8 that has been running like crap for awhile (no power, stalls when I push the gas, etc.) CEL reported there was an issue with the air intake so I had it fixed (ripoff!) and car ran ok for a month or so, then it started back up doing the same thing. Took it back to the dealer and they said I needed to replace my cat....and oh btw, you need to replace your engine also, a compression test showed my engine was shot. Well, I'm not spending ~8k for a new engine and cat, which is what they quoted me. The plan then was to just drive it till it died while I saved $ for a down payment on a new ride. Well, it suddenly took a nosedive in the last few weeks. It started driving REALLY bad, had NO power whatsoever, would barely start, etc. It just got really bad. So I found this and thought I would try it out. It couldn't get any worse.


I don't have all the tools to really work on cars so I bought 6 cinder blocks and jacked up the car and rested it on the blocks while I got under it to take off the cat. The instructions were easy enough except for the part about removing the rubber mount at the back. I couldn't figure that one out so I just cut it off. It didn't seem like it was important so what the ****. Once I got it out, it took about 20 minutes to hammer out all the **** out of it. Once that was done, I connected it back up (be careful not to lose the ring that goes inside the triangle joint at the top, it won't seal right if that isn't in there!).


Results: Car runs like a champ now! Power is back! I noticed that I'm getting better gas mileage on the highway too. No increase in noise. The exhaust smell is more noticeable but not horrible. Just mostly if I'm idling at a stoplight or something. I always have my windows open so makes sense. I'm in FL so no emissions check.


Overall, this was a godsend for me. I am not ready to buy a new car yet and I just bought myself more time to save money. Thanks again!


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