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Alright, I'll go pick up a bigger hammer then and a new 2x4. But considering that I've been giving fully cocked swings with full strength to no avail, would a blowtorch help me here as a backup?
I'm just not sure how long to apply heat if I was to try using that method.
Be sure to leave the FW nut on by a few threads too. As a last resort put some tension on it WITH A PULLER and then smack it with a deadblow or large hammer and wood.
There's some serious sorcery behind why the mini sledge got it off in 5 to10 minutes when I'm sure I was putting more strength behind the claw hammer for close to an hour. Seriously guys, thanks, can't tell you how much this was stressing me out.
To add to this thread, if you've read the post advising you to tighten two bolts into the flywheel to push it out, DON'T. Or at least don't use the bellhouse bolts in the attempt because they're the only ones you have on hand that will fit. I was replacing the bolts anyway so I decided to use the old ones. The bolts snapped off right inside the hole with no results and I have to get em out before I reinstall.
Glad you got it. Normally no reason to change the bell housing bolts. And be sure to take note of any differences in length and corresponding position.
Hi guys, just did a new clutch install and have the transmission and such back on, but I'm having a derp moment and can't remember where this last 4-pin connection on the harness goes!
Hi guys, just did a new clutch install and have the transmission and such back on, but I'm having a derp moment and can't remember where this last 4-pin connection on the harness goes!
Lmao yep. That was it. For some reason I had it in my head that it was something else on the transmission. Cat isn't even back on yet so no wonder
Thanks!
No problem, just make sure you connect the neutral and reverse switches to right connectors. If your car dies and the ignition fuse blows when you try and start it up, the connectors were likely mismatched. I made that mistake and my heart dropped lol
I replaced my factory clutch with a stage 3 kit. It will not engage now. The slave cylinder seems to be working properly and I bleed system. I also replaced my broken clutch pedal. What could be the reason the new clutch won't engage?
I replaced my factory clutch with a stage 3 kit. It will not engage now. The slave cylinder seems to be working properly and I bleed system. I also replaced my broken clutch pedal. What could be the reason the new clutch won't engage?
What do you mean by not engaging? Like, you can't get into gear even with the car off?
Nice diy write up👍👍👍 With the ad of air and a lift, I was able to knock out the job in about 8.5 hours following this step by step. Every thing went back together well but there 1 thing that bothers me. The throw out bearing chatter hasn't gone away I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on my dilemma
I'm in the process of removing my tranny and had a few thoughts that might be useful to anyone else looking to do the same.
Firstly, it is something you can do on your drive with axle stands and a pair of jacks. However, if you have time constraints make sure that you read all the info here and have a back-up plan for any issues. There is some extra info and images here.
Secondly, since this thread started corrosion has continued to work its evil ways on PPF and driveshaft nuts. Even with a humongous breaker bar and extension (5+ ft) , I couldn't undo the PPF nuts until I employed the services of a blow torch. For the driveshaft bolts I used wheel nut bar (ie it had a built-in 90 deg bend) and had to use a blow torch on the nuts; I used a heat-resistant mat to minimize the risk of applying heat to the UJ.
Thirdly, as an extra precaution because I didn't have a dedicated lifter, I looped a rope around the end of the tranny from the transmission tunnel over wooden blocks on the tunnel that I removed as I lowered the tranny. Looping the rope and fitting the blocks took less than 5 minutes and helped me feel a whole lot more confident about lowering the tranny.
I took out the slave cylinder out to get clearance with the lines attached. Now struggling to get the bolts in place. Front bolt goes in easy however rear is a struggle. Any tips?
ok so I have a question I am hoping someone can help me with. I had my flywheel turned and I noticed when getting it back the lip where the pressure plate mounts is thinker on one side from the other the machine shop told me when they measured it was slightly thinker one side to the other so they stayed true to how it was. So what I am wondering is if someone can tell me if this is true. Is the lip from the teeth to the pressure plate mountin area thicker from one side to the other. ??? Sorry for reviving old thread just don't know who else to ask my local Mazda dealer didn't have any answer for me.
ok so I have a question I am hoping someone can help me with. I had my flywheel turned and I noticed when getting it back the lip where the pressure plate mounts is thinker on one side from the other the machine shop told me when they measured it was slightly thinker one side to the other so they stayed true to how it was. So what I am wondering is if someone can tell me if this is true. Is the lip from the teeth to the pressure plate mountin area thicker from one side to the other. ??? Sorry for reviving old thread just don't know who else to ask my local Mazda dealer didn't have any answer for me.
The stock flywheel is assymwtrical because it has a counterweight built in
So the surface where the pressure plate mounts will have a thinker lip on one side to the other? I figured it would be the same all the way around. The lip where the clutch disk rides seams to be the same thickness all the way around. but I can't find feeler gage or anything to really measure it either but by feel it seams to be the same all the way around. as to the lip where the pressure plate mounts is definitely thicker one side to the other. Sorry if I seam to be repeating my self just want to make sure before I put it back together.
Originally Posted by dannobre
The stick flywheel is assymwtrical because it has a counterweight built in
So the surface where the pressure plate mounts will have a thinker lip on one side to the other? I figured it would be the same all the way around. The lip where the clutch disk rides seams to be the same thickness all the way around. but I can't find feeler gage or anything to really measure it either but by feel it seams to be the same all the way around. as to the lip where the pressure plate mounts is definitely thicker one side to the other. Sorry if I seam to be repeating my self just want to make sure before I put it back together.
PUT up a picture..or I can put up a pic of a new stock flywheel when I get home 😎
FWIW, I think the RX8 FW and FD FW are the same...they're both a 'step' design with the integrated counter-weight on the back side. Tried looking for a pic of the back side to show that however this is the best I can do. But it does show that 'step' friction surface. If the FW had no issues before and machine shop is worth their salt, it should still be fine.
sticker 1 has one sticker to make it flush sticker 2 has 4 stickers to make it flush
Sticker 1 side took one sticker to make it flush to the lip sticker 2 side took four stickers to make it flush. Sorry just best I can explain
Originally Posted by dannobre
PUT up a picture..or I can put up a pic of a new stock flywheel when I get home 😎
The machine shop I went to was highly recommended and one of the only ones that asked before hand if it was stepped I posted a pic trying to explain the best I can in another comment thank you for any help
Originally Posted by Signal 2
FWIW, I think the RX8 FW and FD FW are the same...they're both a 'step' design with the integrated counter-weight on the back side. Tried looking for a pic of the back side to show that however this is the best I can do. But it does show that 'step' friction surface. If the FW had no issues before and machine shop is worth their salt, it should still be fine.
05-18-2016, 01:41 PM
