Signal 2

You don't necessarily need to replace the stock flywheel. It depends on the condition of the friction surface...and that depends on mileage and how it was driven by it's owner(s). It can also usually be resurfaced by a competent machine shop for <$50. That will require it's removal. https://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/flywheelremoval.htm
A counterweight is only used in lightened flywheels. The stock flywheel has an integrated counterweight.
Just to confirm...IMO you should change the throw-out/clutch release bearing and the pilot bearing and seal. The latter will require the MAZDA pilot bearing tool or...I think many chain parts stores will rent you a blind bearing puller for free (with a deposit). You could also buy one. I've heard the Harbor Freight blind bearing puller works and it's pretty cheap.
One other thing I'd recommend is a near rear seal on the transmission. Takes < 5 minutes and usually <$20.

RotorBoat

Yeah, a buddy of mine recommended take it to a shop to resurface the flywheel. I was just making sure that I don't have to replace that as well. I planned on putting a throw out bearing as well as pilot bearing in. It's a '06 by the way with and just hit 90K on mileage. Planned on putting new tranny fluid in since it's not much either. Thankfully I have a torque wrench and a bearing pulley that I plan to borrow. I'll look into that rear seal as well. That could be picked up at a regular auto store right? Also I think the clutch bearing comes in the kit that I have on order right now.

hyeperion

Removal is pretty easy. Ur going to need the pilot bearing flywheel nut wrench and flywheel stopper tools if you mess with the flywheel. About 120 bux right there but absolutley crucial to the install. Buy spare pilot bearings and bushings youll probably bend a few. Freezing those b4 install definitly helps. Push em in as far as they can go. Otherwise the tranny wont seal. Then test fit new clutch on transmission shaft make sure it slides on nice and easy. Do not over grease the shaft or t/o bearing and the easiest way to remount is to bench press the tranny in place. Its not as heavy as you think. Also the huge tranny carier brace thing needs to be properly aligned or you wont be able to start up the car. Look that up. Bleed clutch before startup or it wont crank over. And dont forget to put something behind the diff so it doesnt swing down. Gl and pop 2 advil before you start

Signal 2

Not sure what a "pilot bearing flywheel nut wrench" is. He will need a blind bearing puller or the MAZDA SST (special service tool) to remove the pilot bearing. Freezing would help but in my experience, not necessary. And I would NOT buy extra bearings, they're a little pricey. If RotorBoat checks back in this thread for my earlier posts, I describe how I do it without the install tool. Not the only way, but over the years I've successfully installed 6 to 8 bearings that way. The OP and some other previous posts also cover how to remove the transmission and flywheel.
When the flywheel is exposed, simply check it closely. If there's a lot of "blueing" or other evidence that it's gotten really hot, check for cracks. Usually with a little slipping there's going to be localized heat. Not that big of a deal. A good shop will take minimal material off while resurfacing and there should be plenty to work with to "true it up".

RotorBoat

Sweet, I've ordered the clutch kit, and I'm about to order bearings online. Unless I can find those at a local autozone or something? This way I don't have to wait for them in the mail. I'll be starting this whole entire year down and rebuild this weekend. I guess I'm just feeling like this is over my head even though I keep being told it's really simple. Lol

RotorBoat

Well, it's been a rough weekend working on the car. Lol Started out first taking off the exhaust. The horse show ring at towards the back to the myffler was basically indented together from the horse show clamp.had to cut the pipe, worked everything else off.. Couple bolts had to be ordered which has stopped me for now. A couple broke in certain spots sadly. Turned out to be a super blown throw out bearing. Everything seemed fine though, but swapped that out along with my new stage 3 racing clutch and cover. Now I'm also stuck on what type of tranny fluid to put back in as well as what the torque specs are for the pressure plate if there are any. I picked up some Redline MT-90 for the tranny. Hopefully that's what a lot of people reccomend.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

There is no need to undo the muffler clamp @ the muffler...remove the midpipe...and the muffler and short section in front of it stay intact

Not sure what a "throttle bearing" is...throwout?

You will like the MT90..it makes for a nice smooth tranny

RotorBoat

Excuse me... Lol I meant throw out bearing, not sure why I wrote throttle. Yeah, the back end of the mid pipe didn't move enough for a good smooth clearance to take out the tranny brace, so that's why I took the whole thing off. It made it easier anyways for me, even though I had to cute a small part at the muffler. I still plan to get a new muffler and mid pipe soon as well so I wasn't to worried about cutting it. So I took the whole thing off, double checked and cleaned out the area where the O2 sensors are, cleaned a lot of stuff actually. I read a lot about the MT-90, great responses so I thought I'd give it a try and see how it feels. I plan to call Mazda this week to find out the specs on torqueing certain bolts. Other than that, I'm just putting it all back together now with the new parts. Excited to get it back on the road.

RotorBoat

So I've had my replacement done already about a month ago and have only driven it a little bit since it's been done. Due to being away for a few weeks. Now everything feels right. Except when I get the car to about 90+^ the cab starts shaking a little. And you can tell the faster you go the more it will begin to shake. Any ideas? My buddy told me it might be the drive shaft. I'm almost sure I put the thing in the same way it came out. But is there any way to know? Let's say I accidentally put it in a different way, how can I tell the right way it's supposed to go in?

CRO8TIA

Did you follow the correct procedure to replace the PPF, if this is misaligned, it will cause a myriad of problems. Have you checked for any wear in the universal joints.

karstman7

iTrader: (1)

guys - stupid questions:

what is ppf?

and what type of bolts do i need to order to attach a lightweight flywheel to a counterweight ?

thanks for the help....

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Signal 2

Not stupid at all.
Power Plant Frame
A light-weight alternative for adding rigidity by tying in the engine/transmisson to the rear differential. I know Mazda used it on the 3rd Gen. RX7, Miata and RX8...possibly others. A big long lattice looking piece bolted to those components.
You should use a hardened bolt. Either Grade 8 (should have six lines/slashes cast into the head), or the metric equivalent which will have a 10.9 stamped on it. Figure out what pitch/thread size you need and any good hardware store (I use Westlake-Ace in my area) should carry them. If not using lock-washers, install with a daub of thread-locker on them too.

Smutterbutter

So, finally managed to get my transmission and drive shaft out. I forgot to mark the position of the driveshaft on the diff. The FSM states to do so but somehow I missed it. Anyone know why you would need to get the driveshaft back in the exact position it was in previously?

vlad0691

iTrader: (1)

I don't think I remember marking the exact position of the driveshaft when I took it off...

But I can tell you that I didn't have any issues after reinstalling it.

Signal 2

The drive-shaft spins at varying speeds while the car is in motion. So it's balanced, just like your tires/wheels. I think they say it's good practice to index the shaft to the differential so it goes back on in the same position to avoid any resonance/vibration. I use a bit of paint or etch a mark at the diff when removing. That said, usually they're not THAT far off and the shaft is relatively short, so you're not likely to have a problem or notice anything. If you do, then I suppose you have to remove/reinstall in the other (three) potential positions until you don't.
I helped a friend who forgot and we just looked really close at the flange of the differential. There was a really subtle pattern made by the driveshaft and we managed to match that up.

emargoli

Banging my head against the wall.......I was able to get the flywheel nut loose, but now I can't get the flywheel to come off. I've hit it with a deadblow hammer and it won't budge. I'm planning to get it resurfaced, if I haven't hit it so many times that I've damaged it. Is there another way to remove the flywheel, without spending too much money? I've already had to go out and buy the pilot bearing puller, 54mm socket, and a impact wrench. Budget for this repair has been blown..

Signal 2

I use the biggest dead-blow hammer I have...I think it's 4 or 5 lbs. and it works fine. But if that doesn't do it, try a big traditional large hammer and a block of wood. I hesitate to suggest a sledge, but it's suitable. Just use increasingly hard blows on the block of wood after lying it flat against the flat area of the flywheel. If it's never been removed previously from the factory they can be stubborn. Just be sure to leave the flywheel nut on a few threads so it doesn't come loose and fall off.

emargoli

Thank you sir. I'll believe the hammer I have is a 3lb, so I'll go get a bigger hammer and try it again.

Signal 2

Again, they can be tough if never removed. If using a steel hammer/sledge, use a piece of 2x4 lying flat against the flat front side of the flywheel. You're just trying to shock it loose. And to emphasize ...put the nut back on a few threads or risk losing a toe. But it'll come.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

You can carefully apply a bit of heat as well........

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Aren't there two threaded holes to attach a puller to? Had a few that were tough to get off, but the 3 lb hammer tap dance has always eventually gotten them off. The dents don't really cause any issue IMO. I can assure you that the factory rotating balance is off a lot more than that ....

Signal 2

I would not directly hit the surface of the flywheel with a steel hammer and obviously stay clear of the ring gear. Nothing that would dent the clutch mating/friction surface. It's not a balance issue. But I could see the ring gear getting knocked loose. And those dents could create hot spots. If not too deep they should be machined out for proper clutch disc operation and life.

Mr. Pockets

I had a hell of a time getting my flywheel off. I bought the prettiest hammer I've eve seen. It's brass, so I could hit the flywheel as hard as I wanted to. It still wouldn't come off.

In the end what worked for me was a bolt-type puller in combination with the brass hammer. Of course, the hole through the e-shaft doesn't leave the puller with anything to press against, so I laid a flat piece of steel across the loosened flywheel nut. Once I applied some tension on the puller, the flywheel came off with only a couple strikes of the hammer.

True story: I didn't have a flat piece of steel lying around. So I found an old garage-sale wrench I've never used and cut it in half. I have a picture somewhere...

emargoli

Bigger hammer and a 2x4 finally did the trick, flywheel is off. But now I have another question. Who sells the pilot bearing seal? I have a new bearing, but I need a new seal and can't find one at any of the local parts shops.