DIY: Coolant Change
#27
Metatron
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Excess will overflow when the engine gets hot, and that can be messy, it dribbles into the rad fans, then gets everywhere......
I would suck a little out with a turkey baster (as the actress said to the bishop....)
S
I would suck a little out with a turkey baster (as the actress said to the bishop....)
S
#30
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Potentially stupid question - if you drain out of the side plate as well as the rad, will you be able to fill all the cooling passages properly by filling at the overflow reservoir? Don't want to introduce air into the system. Thoughts?
#33
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Courtesy of dannobre, from another thread:
COOLING SYSTEM AIR BLEEDING
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2004 RX8 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
After performing repairs or any time cooling system coolant is drained, the cooling system must be purged of air. Use the following procedure below to remove air from cooling system:
1. Safely elevate front of vehicle on hoist. Elevating the front end only, at a steep angle will allow air trapped in system to escape easily.
2. Temporarily remove a coolant hose to the throttle body.
3. Fill coolant system with proper mix ratio of coolant / water per work shop manual.
4. Start engine N carefully monitor coolant level, topping off as necessary.
5. When coolant begins to flow from throttle body hose, air is bled from system.
6. Carefully attach coolant hose back to throttle body pipe. **Caution, coolant may be extremly hot!
7. Verify proper coolant level N add as necessary.
8. Check system for leaks.
9. Verify repair.
COOLING SYSTEM AIR BLEEDING
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2004 RX8 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
After performing repairs or any time cooling system coolant is drained, the cooling system must be purged of air. Use the following procedure below to remove air from cooling system:
1. Safely elevate front of vehicle on hoist. Elevating the front end only, at a steep angle will allow air trapped in system to escape easily.
2. Temporarily remove a coolant hose to the throttle body.
3. Fill coolant system with proper mix ratio of coolant / water per work shop manual.
4. Start engine N carefully monitor coolant level, topping off as necessary.
5. When coolant begins to flow from throttle body hose, air is bled from system.
6. Carefully attach coolant hose back to throttle body pipe. **Caution, coolant may be extremly hot!
7. Verify proper coolant level N add as necessary.
8. Check system for leaks.
9. Verify repair.
#35
No means yes
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I think the idea of the above procedure is that this coolant hose to the throttle body (is this the famous one from the "bypass mod"??) is the highest place in the system so bubbles naturally travel up there...
Personally would do a combination of this plus idling with the rad cap off.
Personally would do a combination of this plus idling with the rad cap off.
#36
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Hey guys now heres a question. Sounds stupid but no questions are stupid if you don't understand. Ok now how do i add purple ice? Do I have to just drain everything or just added to my coolant? I don't wanna mess with anything that i'm not good at. Especially on my baby.
#38
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I'm going too need too change my coolant soon
I'm thinking about buying some NPG-R coolant though.... Does anybody know how many gallons of coolant our 8's hold? Also, would I need too get the Evan's prep fluid considering I need too take all the water out?
P.S. - Our cars work okay with propylene glycol?
Edit: Decided too stay with whatever stock coolant, no point in going over board when my car is practically stock... But what about using this 1.5 bar cap?
I'm thinking about buying some NPG-R coolant though.... Does anybody know how many gallons of coolant our 8's hold? Also, would I need too get the Evan's prep fluid considering I need too take all the water out?
P.S. - Our cars work okay with propylene glycol?
Edit: Decided too stay with whatever stock coolant, no point in going over board when my car is practically stock... But what about using this 1.5 bar cap?
Last edited by Keef; 11-05-2007 at 01:45 PM.
#39
No means yes
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success!
Hey guys, thanks to all the info I successfully performed a coolant change today! I drained from the radiator and the engine block, getting exactly 9 liters out (the capacity spec is 9.8 so I am very happy with that - didn't even bother doing a full flush, just filled back up).
Speaking of which, it's really hard to see the fluid level in the reserve tank
My advice to anyone attempting this for the first time:
- use goggles! I'm happy I did, that **** sprayed all over once it hit the empty drain pan...
- use the following SST to prevent spillage when draining the block:
Speaking of which, it's really hard to see the fluid level in the reserve tank
My advice to anyone attempting this for the first time:
- use goggles! I'm happy I did, that **** sprayed all over once it hit the empty drain pan...
- use the following SST to prevent spillage when draining the block:
#41
No means yes
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No I mean when you drain it... When you take out the drain bolt from the block, a stream of coolant shoots out about 3 feet... So instead of making a huge mess you catch it with the SST and it goes tidily into the pan
#43
Just finished a Coolant change along with an installation of the Agency Power Silicone Hoses for the 8. Thought I'd pass on some observations.
I drained from the engine first, then the radiator. The owners manual listed the total coolant capacity at 10.4L and with this method I got about 7L each time. If you are just doing a coolant change, I dont see any need in pulling the tray, as only a miniscule amount got onto it from the radiator. And if you decide to "just pull the bottom hose" to drain, I found that cursing and having things at hand to throw helps loosen that hose
I drained from the engine first, then the radiator. The owners manual listed the total coolant capacity at 10.4L and with this method I got about 7L each time. If you are just doing a coolant change, I dont see any need in pulling the tray, as only a miniscule amount got onto it from the radiator. And if you decide to "just pull the bottom hose" to drain, I found that cursing and having things at hand to throw helps loosen that hose
#44
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This is great info guys! I am about to do this for the first time on my RX-8, I was going to pay a mechanic 100 bucks to get probably a half done job. Here's the deal, tho: I have 63k miles on this car, live in PA, and don't race my car. Using the engine block drain AND the radiator drain it sounds like I can get the majority of the coolant out...do I need to worry about flushing at all? I was planning on refilling with just 65/35 or 60/40 pre-mix and then bleeding the air out of the system as prescribed. What do you guys think?
#45
This is great info guys! I am about to do this for the first time on my RX-8, I was going to pay a mechanic 100 bucks to get probably a half done job. Here's the deal, tho: I have 63k miles on this car, live in PA, and don't race my car. Using the engine block drain AND the radiator drain it sounds like I can get the majority of the coolant out...do I need to worry about flushing at all? I was planning on refilling with just 65/35 or 60/40 pre-mix and then bleeding the air out of the system as prescribed. What do you guys think?
#48
Well when your radiator core freezes this winter when it's -10 out and you're up on the highway, I'll laugh at you. Point, and laugh. Or you can just change your mix in the fall before winter, like I said.
#49
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Great DIY, I did this today, didnt bother with the underbody tray or the engine drain... just emptied the radiator flushed with distilled 3 times, and then filled it up with 60% water and 40% antifreeze. Got the bubbles outta the system and am happy with the results.