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DIY: Coolant Change

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Old 09-29-2007, 03:41 PM
  #26  
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So I overfilled past the F line though I think that isn't an issue. However, just so I feel better, can anyone confirm whether it will be an issue or not? Thanks.
Old 09-29-2007, 03:56 PM
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Excess will overflow when the engine gets hot, and that can be messy, it dribbles into the rad fans, then gets everywhere......

I would suck a little out with a turkey baster (as the actress said to the bishop....)

S
Old 09-29-2007, 04:21 PM
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Thanks Stealth. Right after I posted that I found some tubing and went out and siphoned it.
Old 10-08-2007, 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by TKE Tails
Does anyone have a picture as to where this engine drain is? I would like to have some idea before I jack the car up for the day?
Best of the available pictures ...
Attached Thumbnails DIY: Coolant Change-14mm.jpg  
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Old 10-11-2007, 09:45 PM
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Potentially stupid question - if you drain out of the side plate as well as the rad, will you be able to fill all the cooling passages properly by filling at the overflow reservoir? Don't want to introduce air into the system. Thoughts?
Old 10-11-2007, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by CnnmnSchnpps
Potentially stupid question - if you drain out of the side plate as well as the rad, will you be able to fill all the cooling passages properly by filling at the overflow reservoir? Don't want to introduce air into the system. Thoughts?
Thats why u have to bleed it after ...

it does not matter if you just drain the overflow reservoir. bubbles will still get in, and you still have to bleed it.
Old 10-11-2007, 09:58 PM
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Is there a DIY for bleeding? Not mentioned in the original post...

BTW, your pic looks scary
Old 10-12-2007, 09:07 PM
  #33  
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Courtesy of dannobre, from another thread:

COOLING SYSTEM AIR BLEEDING
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2004 RX8 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ

After performing repairs or any time cooling system coolant is drained, the cooling system must be purged of air. Use the following procedure below to remove air from cooling system:

1. Safely elevate front of vehicle on hoist. Elevating the front end only, at a steep angle will allow air trapped in system to escape easily.
2. Temporarily remove a coolant hose to the throttle body.
3. Fill coolant system with proper mix ratio of coolant / water per work shop manual.
4. Start engine N carefully monitor coolant level, topping off as necessary.
5. When coolant begins to flow from throttle body hose, air is bled from system.
6. Carefully attach coolant hose back to throttle body pipe. **Caution, coolant may be extremly hot!
7. Verify proper coolant level N add as necessary.
8. Check system for leaks.
9. Verify repair.
Old 10-13-2007, 09:00 AM
  #34  
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What I did was I elevate the front, Open the Cap and let the car idle. then keep adding coolant.

Coolant expand when heated. you have to remember that.
Old 10-13-2007, 10:09 PM
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I think the idea of the above procedure is that this coolant hose to the throttle body (is this the famous one from the "bypass mod"??) is the highest place in the system so bubbles naturally travel up there...

Personally would do a combination of this plus idling with the rad cap off.
Old 11-03-2007, 11:06 PM
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Hey guys now heres a question. Sounds stupid but no questions are stupid if you don't understand. Ok now how do i add purple ice? Do I have to just drain everything or just added to my coolant? I don't wanna mess with anything that i'm not good at. Especially on my baby.
Old 11-03-2007, 11:08 PM
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Drain everything.

Add ICE or Water Wetter. The whole bottle.

Add coolant

Run Engine

Top it off with Coolant(or distilled water)

be happy.
Old 11-05-2007, 12:08 PM
  #38  
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I'm going too need too change my coolant soon

I'm thinking about buying some NPG-R coolant though.... Does anybody know how many gallons of coolant our 8's hold? Also, would I need too get the Evan's prep fluid considering I need too take all the water out?

P.S. - Our cars work okay with propylene glycol?

Edit: Decided too stay with whatever stock coolant, no point in going over board when my car is practically stock... But what about using this 1.5 bar cap?

Last edited by Keef; 11-05-2007 at 01:45 PM.
Old 11-11-2007, 06:13 PM
  #39  
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success!

Hey guys, thanks to all the info I successfully performed a coolant change today! I drained from the radiator and the engine block, getting exactly 9 liters out (the capacity spec is 9.8 so I am very happy with that - didn't even bother doing a full flush, just filled back up).

Speaking of which, it's really hard to see the fluid level in the reserve tank

My advice to anyone attempting this for the first time:
- use goggles! I'm happy I did, that **** sprayed all over once it hit the empty drain pan...
- use the following SST to prevent spillage when draining the block:
Attached Thumbnails DIY: Coolant Change-100_2130_s.jpg  
Old 11-11-2007, 06:15 PM
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I just put a piece of towel on the radiator cap so it will never spray all over ...
Old 11-11-2007, 06:29 PM
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No I mean when you drain it... When you take out the drain bolt from the block, a stream of coolant shoots out about 3 feet... So instead of making a huge mess you catch it with the SST and it goes tidily into the pan
Old 11-11-2007, 11:10 PM
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Originally Posted by CnnmnSchnpps
No I mean when you drain it... When you take out the drain bolt from the block, a stream of coolant shoots out about 3 feet... So instead of making a huge mess you catch it with the SST and it goes tidily into the pan
hmm, I just loosen the bolt with the wrench, then I just do a quick *spin* on the bolt and moved my *** out with my trolley. of course theres a pan underneath to catch all the bad stuff.

no mess.
Old 03-30-2008, 03:22 AM
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Just finished a Coolant change along with an installation of the Agency Power Silicone Hoses for the 8. Thought I'd pass on some observations.

I drained from the engine first, then the radiator. The owners manual listed the total coolant capacity at 10.4L and with this method I got about 7L each time. If you are just doing a coolant change, I dont see any need in pulling the tray, as only a miniscule amount got onto it from the radiator. And if you decide to "just pull the bottom hose" to drain, I found that cursing and having things at hand to throw helps loosen that hose
Old 03-30-2008, 12:03 PM
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This is great info guys! I am about to do this for the first time on my RX-8, I was going to pay a mechanic 100 bucks to get probably a half done job. Here's the deal, tho: I have 63k miles on this car, live in PA, and don't race my car. Using the engine block drain AND the radiator drain it sounds like I can get the majority of the coolant out...do I need to worry about flushing at all? I was planning on refilling with just 65/35 or 60/40 pre-mix and then bleeding the air out of the system as prescribed. What do you guys think?
Old 03-30-2008, 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rxtreme
This is great info guys! I am about to do this for the first time on my RX-8, I was going to pay a mechanic 100 bucks to get probably a half done job. Here's the deal, tho: I have 63k miles on this car, live in PA, and don't race my car. Using the engine block drain AND the radiator drain it sounds like I can get the majority of the coolant out...do I need to worry about flushing at all? I was planning on refilling with just 65/35 or 60/40 pre-mix and then bleeding the air out of the system as prescribed. What do you guys think?
Definitely gotta flush at least once, that's assuming you don't have FL-22 coolant, in which case I'd recommend at least twice using the engine/radiator drain method. And I'd be careful about that 65/35 mix if I was in PA. Or just change it this fall.
Old 03-30-2008, 01:07 PM
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turn on the key and turn on the heat control...should get your last bit of old coolant that way. When you flush it...make sure the heat is on as well...then it will circulate through the heater core and flush that as well....
Old 03-30-2008, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by BMonkey
Definitely gotta flush at least once, that's assuming you don't have FL-22 coolant, in which case I'd recommend at least twice using the engine/radiator drain method. And I'd be careful about that 65/35 mix if I was in PA. Or just change it this fall.
What would be wrong with a 65/35 coolant/distilled water mix in PA? Or even 70/30? I know the rotaries run hot so I want the most heat protection I can get!
Old 03-31-2008, 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by rxtreme
What would be wrong with a 65/35 coolant/distilled water mix in PA? Or even 70/30? I know the rotaries run hot so I want the most heat protection I can get!
Well when your radiator core freezes this winter when it's -10 out and you're up on the highway, I'll laugh at you. Point, and laugh. Or you can just change your mix in the fall before winter, like I said.
Old 04-03-2008, 11:51 PM
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Great DIY, I did this today, didnt bother with the underbody tray or the engine drain... just emptied the radiator flushed with distilled 3 times, and then filled it up with 60% water and 40% antifreeze. Got the bubbles outta the system and am happy with the results.
Old 04-05-2008, 11:58 PM
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I am working on this right now.

+ 10 for wearing goggles and gloves when you take the drain plug out.


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