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Old 03-31-2009, 04:20 PM   #1
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DIY: Clutch pedal bracket removal and fix

Picture 1 here shows how the clutch pedal moves toward the brake when well it breaks, plus depends on what side it snaps from first. Mine was on the left.


ATTENTION - There is a recall on the assembly for 8 years 100k now. If you have a problem call mazda and they should replace it with a new assembly. You can check out the recall on nhtsa's site under defects investigation.
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Last edited by syntheticdarkness; 07-02-2011 at 09:37 AM.
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Old 03-31-2009, 04:25 PM   #2
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Picture 2 shows the breaks. The bottom arrow shows the spot weld ripped out, and the top arrow shows how where the nut goes it broke completely off.
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Old 03-31-2009, 04:28 PM   #3
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Picture 3 shows the gap.
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Old 03-31-2009, 04:30 PM   #4
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Picture 4 shows why they go bad. One spot weld per side.
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Old 03-31-2009, 04:36 PM   #5
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Picture 5 shows where the bracket broke from the pressure. Just a reminder if your's is squeeking you might want to pull it and weld it. The nut was really hard to get at since it broke and was covering the half the nut.
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Old 03-31-2009, 04:40 PM   #6
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Now it is time to take it out and fix it. Picture 6 we will take the connector off the sensor closes to the firewall. There is a clip you just push in and it pulls right off.
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Old 03-31-2009, 04:43 PM   #7
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In picture 7 the clip is disconnected. Now move it out of the way so it doesn't snag on the assembly when you go to remove it.
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Old 03-31-2009, 04:47 PM   #8
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In picture 8 take some needle nose to pop out this connector for the wire.
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Old 03-31-2009, 04:53 PM   #9
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In picture 9 is another sensor on the back side of the bracket closes to the drivers sear. Push the clip in which is shown with the red arrow. The blue arrow is optional, but if you want to take it out you just turn it counterclockwise and it will come out.
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Old 03-31-2009, 04:56 PM   #10
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In picture 10 is a 12mm nut at the top side of the bracket remove. Note all the metal nuts are 12mm, and the white plastic one comes off by hand.
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Old 03-31-2009, 04:58 PM   #11
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In picture 11 remove the two nuts shown.
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:02 PM   #12
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Now picture 12 is a little more difficult and you will need an extension to get to it. When done take assembly out.
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:07 PM   #13
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Now the next couple pictures is how me and some of the guys figured it would be welded, your opinion on it can be different, though they all have the same result.

In picture 13 I welded the back side of the spot welds after getting the hole lined up again.
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:10 PM   #14
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In picture 14 I welded back on the piece that snapped off for the nut, and put a weld at the bottom and side off the bracked indicated by the arrows.
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:14 PM   #15
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In 15 I did the same with the arrows for the welds, and on the back side which I forgot to mark. I did along the backside at the top of both arrows where the metal raises up.
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:25 PM   #16
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In picture 16 you put the pedal assembly back in. Using picture 12 put that nut on first, then picture 11 you put those on, followed by picture 10. Next is the sensors picture 6, then picture 8, and last but not least picture 9. Oh and make sure the push rod and the push rods cradle is in line also which is shown by the arrows. This is the way I did it, but there are many ways you can put it back. Whatever way suits you.
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Old 03-31-2009, 05:43 PM   #17
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Picture 17 the pedal is back to normal. It is alot more solid then before. On mine I had to take my needle nose and bend the lever that pushes in on sensor closes to the firewall so the car would start, so other then that everything is working great so far and no squeeks, very smooth shifting also.

This is my temp fix or could be perm until I get the support bracket to strengthen the unit from fluid or mazsport. This is a great cheap (free for me) way to get your car up and running without spending to much money until you can afford to buy the after market bracket enforcements.

Don't wait till it breaks since it will be more difficult to take out. Total time was about an hour. 5-10 minutes to take out if it wasn't broke (20 minutes for me), 5-10 minutes to weld, then around 30-40 minutes to put back in.

I hope this will help alot of people. Good luck.
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:40 PM   #18
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What a champion! This guy comes to the Clutch Pedal Snapped thread and stfuppercutted everyone who was arguing.

Great DIY, this will be of enormous help to everyone!
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:50 PM   #19
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I wish this was available 2 weeks ago. An awesome DIY!
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:59 PM   #20
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by fluid or mazsport you mean fluid right?

or bhr..

i have the fluid bracket and it works great. nice writeup
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Old 04-01-2009, 12:00 AM   #21
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by fluid or mazsport you mean fluid right?

or bhr..

i have the fluid bracket and it works great. nice writeup

Yeah I think he means Fluid, surprisingly not everyone knows that Mazsport went under.
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Old 04-01-2009, 02:32 PM   #22
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Thanks everyone. I wish I would of did this awhile ago, but it only makes you better at doing it in my opinion when it's ten times harder. So if anyone around here needs help it will be a breeze.

Yeah I didn't know mazsport went out since I was looking around and seen some of there stuff, but hope to be able to round up some money here so I can buy the bracket from fluid.

Does anyone have a picture they can put on here that have the bracket. That would be a nice addition on this thread if no one minds. I still think in my opinion the bracket from fluid with the welds done also will be the ultimate in structure stability.

Once again thanks everyone.
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Old 04-01-2009, 02:42 PM   #23
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Fluid Clutch Pedal Bracket
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Old 04-01-2009, 02:47 PM   #24
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Picture 17 the pedal is back to normal. It is alot more solid then before. On mine I had to take my needle nose and bend the lever that pushes in on sensor closes to the firewall so the car would start, so other then that everything is working great so far and no squeeks, very smooth shifting also.
FWIW I had the same issue but broke my sensor fiddling with it. When I put a new sensor on it worked fine.

It looks like the plunger on the sensor can sometimes recess too far. If anyone does this mod and has the same issue you may just need to pull the plunger out further from the sensor housing (the black thing) and that will allow your clutch to engage the sensor to let you start your car.
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Old 04-01-2009, 03:11 PM   #25
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I tried pulling the plunger out and twisting it, but I was afraid I was going to break it since it wasn't coming out anymore, so I just bent the metal to be on the safe side. I didn't have to bend it that far so it wasn't to big of a deal. Me and plastic parts on cars are enemies. Thanks for the picture.
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Old 04-01-2009, 03:11 PM
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bracket, braket, clutch, diy, fix, fluid, ford, interlock, mazda, mazsport, motorsports, pedal, peddle, removal, rx8, switch

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