DIY: Auto Up/Down Windows with Factory Key Fob
05-04-2009, 03:04 AM
#26
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Thanks Robb, shortly after postring that I got it figured out, my setup blew a fuse for some reason, replaced it and all is good.
You did an excellent job on this tutorial, I really appreciate your time and effort put into this for us. Maybe one day I can return the favor for you.
Also, to the previous post, I have the FOB with no key, 2004 model, and it worked flawlessly.
Stericson
You did an excellent job on this tutorial, I really appreciate your time and effort put into this for us. Maybe one day I can return the favor for you.
Also, to the previous post, I have the FOB with no key, 2004 model, and it worked flawlessly.
Stericson
05-05-2009, 02:18 AM
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I was told the switch blades where not compatible with an o4? Was/is this not true? I would love to consolidate my fob and key together.
Btw, The mod works great and its such a fun thing to show off, I get out of my car and people are like "hey you didnt close your win.....ohh, thats cool.." lol It's such a handy thing to have, one of my favorite mods.
More people may not have done it because of the work involved, took me a good 3-4 hours to do, but well worth it.
Stericson
Btw, The mod works great and its such a fun thing to show off, I get out of my car and people are like "hey you didnt close your win.....ohh, thats cool.." lol It's such a handy thing to have, one of my favorite mods.
More people may not have done it because of the work involved, took me a good 3-4 hours to do, but well worth it.
Stericson
08-09-2009, 10:31 AM
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I just did a quick search for the 3 components necessary. To do it like I have you need the DEI 530t for about $70 and 2 PAC TR-7's for about $20 each so that would be about $110 plus a little bit for taps and connectors.
08-09-2009, 03:13 PM
#31
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where did u find the 530T and TR-7's? cause the cheapest i can find them is $126. and thats not including the little things needed. still worth it, but i wanna get the cost down as much as possible.
08-10-2009, 01:44 AM
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If you want I have a 530 that I could sell you. I had bought 2 thinking I needed it for sunroof and then didn't use it. Say $50 shipped. I live in Sweden now but don't worry Ill take care of shipping. Other then that check out ebay. There were some buy it nows with low prices.
03-22-2010, 12:12 PM
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what happens if you hold the unlock button??? will the windows roll down just a bit? just to vent? or does nothing happen? i have the same module for my supra but my remote is a viper. but i have the same 530t for the windows. when i hold the button the windows roll just a bit. let me know if you tried it? just wondering if its possible with the factory fob on my 8
03-23-2010, 01:01 AM
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Yes the 530T has that option but I couldn't figure out a good way to make it work. Because the way this works is the TR-7 is waiting for a pulse on the unlock circuit. When it gets the correct number of pulses it turns on its output for 5 secs which the 530t uses to roll down the windows. You would have to figure out a way to interupt that 5 sec output to use the vent option.
03-23-2010, 01:24 AM
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ahhh!! i see!!... how many seconds can the tr7 be setup??? 5-60 seconds or 1-10 sec? whats the range? thanks for your input... once i get to it, ill post my diy for automated headlights and remote start with the factory fob on the 8.
04-12-2010, 09:15 AM
#36
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I just wanted to ask a quick question about this before I started this afternoon. Can you set up multiple pulse settings on the tr7? So for example, if I wanted to vent the car as mentioned above, could I set up say a 2 pulse for a partial rolldown unlock and a 3 pulse partial rolldown that only lasts for 1 sec to just vent the car. Or, do I need 2 more tr7s to achieve this? Thanks in advance for you advice and this awesome *** DIY!
08-18-2010, 10:33 AM
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From my conversations with Robbz, no. There would be too many pulses through the triggers to allow this to occur and work correctly. The windows will crack sometimes anyway just due to the way that the triggers work. If I can find a way around this, I will let you guys know.
08-19-2010, 01:26 AM
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Thanks for the info...
Also, I installed mine today and i never got it working...
My 2004 Rx8 doesn't have BOSE connector, so i cannot tapped the orange wire on the Bose connector, that's why i tried to use Chuck Wrzesniewski DIY for the red wire.
everything else was exactly the same...
Does tapping the red wire of 530T to the constant power source is a must?
I assume this i my problem.
I notice it, because for the power window harness to function, the key should be in on position.
And sometimes, after i pullout my key on the ignition (with my windows rolled down) after pressing lock button on my FOB twice, the window will roll-up, and i see that my lock Tr7 led lights up. ( stored power...maybe?)
But after this single operation, it will back to no function at all...
I also tried the unlock Tr7, by:
1.turn the key to on position,
2.roll up the windows,
3.lock the car using the power window switch,
4.then turn the key to off position,
5.take out the keys,
6.lock the car using FOB (i see the lock tr7 led lights up)
7.press the FOB 3X
all i see is the unlock Tr7 LED lights up, the windows didn't roll down
So i assume that the wiring and programing is correct since the LED of the Tr7 lights up when they are triggered accordingly ... Please correctly me if im wrong...
Please Help...
Any inputs will be very much appreciated...
Regards,
Chris
Also, I installed mine today and i never got it working...
My 2004 Rx8 doesn't have BOSE connector, so i cannot tapped the orange wire on the Bose connector, that's why i tried to use Chuck Wrzesniewski DIY for the red wire.
for the red power wire from the 530t, then plug them into the appropriate t-taps in the power window harness.
Does tapping the red wire of 530T to the constant power source is a must?
I assume this i my problem.
I notice it, because for the power window harness to function, the key should be in on position.
And sometimes, after i pullout my key on the ignition (with my windows rolled down) after pressing lock button on my FOB twice, the window will roll-up, and i see that my lock Tr7 led lights up. ( stored power...maybe?)
But after this single operation, it will back to no function at all...
I also tried the unlock Tr7, by:
1.turn the key to on position,
2.roll up the windows,
3.lock the car using the power window switch,
4.then turn the key to off position,
5.take out the keys,
6.lock the car using FOB (i see the lock tr7 led lights up)
7.press the FOB 3X
all i see is the unlock Tr7 LED lights up, the windows didn't roll down
So i assume that the wiring and programing is correct since the LED of the Tr7 lights up when they are triggered accordingly ... Please correctly me if im wrong...
Now, my only assessment, since i isolated the problem. It is the constant power source...
Q: where can i get a constant power source without BOSE connector?
Q: where can i get a constant power source without BOSE connector?
Any inputs will be very much appreciated...
Regards,
Chris
Last edited by phey_05; 08-19-2010 at 08:29 AM.
08-19-2010, 06:51 AM
#42
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Yes when the inputs are triggered on the Tr-7 the will light up. Yes they need constant power in order to always be in a waiting state. I cant be sure but it sounds like you might have tapped a power that is active until you open the doors. With the car running try hitting the door lock switch in the car. if this works then you need to find a better power source.
I think that with some fancy wiring and a 3rd TR-7 you might be able to get the vent function working. This is what I am thinking. Instead of wiring the unlock tr-7 to constant+ you wire it to the third TR-7 that is supplying constant + except when triggered with 4 unlocks. So when you hit the 3rd unlock the windows would start, but would be interupted when the 3rd Tr-7 activates on the 4th unlock.
Also I might change my design a bit now if I was to do it again. That would be to add a relay that cuts the power to the TR-7's when acc power is on. This would prevent someone from using the lock switches inside the car to open the windows, when the car is running.
I think that with some fancy wiring and a 3rd TR-7 you might be able to get the vent function working. This is what I am thinking. Instead of wiring the unlock tr-7 to constant+ you wire it to the third TR-7 that is supplying constant + except when triggered with 4 unlocks. So when you hit the 3rd unlock the windows would start, but would be interupted when the 3rd Tr-7 activates on the 4th unlock.
Also I might change my design a bit now if I was to do it again. That would be to add a relay that cuts the power to the TR-7's when acc power is on. This would prevent someone from using the lock switches inside the car to open the windows, when the car is running.
08-19-2010, 08:24 AM
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However I did make 2 changes to his DIY. First I used a constant power source instead of the ACC like he does. For this I tapped the orange wire on the Bose connector as seen in picture 2. Second I used the setting for medium resistance on the 530t. It is On/Off/On/Off for DIP's 1-4. T
I think on your DIY, all the components, 2 TR7 & the 530T is connected to the constant power of Bose connector. this is what i'm trying to achieve now.
I will try to stick to your current DIY, I'll get this one working first.
Any idea where i can get a constant power source without the BOSE connector?
Regards,
Chris
08-19-2010, 01:01 PM
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confirmed...
with the key switched on, i can roll the window up and down.
now my problem... where can i get a constant power for the 2 TR7 & the 530T without the BOSE connector?
please help...
with the key switched on, i can roll the window up and down.
now my problem... where can i get a constant power for the 2 TR7 & the 530T without the BOSE connector?
please help...
08-19-2010, 06:02 PM
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See my video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=848Kc5RQxAA
with the key switched on, i can roll the window up and down.
when i take out the key, it accepts two/three commands from the switch and FOB. you can see that the window stopped halfway when i press the unlock button on the FOB (third command after i take out the key), after that, no more...
Also see this picture; i don't have BOSE to connect with:
This is my driver side door, messy as of the moment, i wont put back the door panel until i fixed this...
What im planning to do is run a single wire from the driver side door to the driver side foot well, in that case, possible i can find a constant power source for the 2 TR7 & the 530T. I tried already, but i think it will be a PIA to get it done, ill research further for this...
Anyone has better solution?
Might save me a headache...
Regards,
Chris
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=848Kc5RQxAA
with the key switched on, i can roll the window up and down.
when i take out the key, it accepts two/three commands from the switch and FOB. you can see that the window stopped halfway when i press the unlock button on the FOB (third command after i take out the key), after that, no more...
Also see this picture; i don't have BOSE to connect with:
This is my driver side door, messy as of the moment, i wont put back the door panel until i fixed this...
What im planning to do is run a single wire from the driver side door to the driver side foot well, in that case, possible i can find a constant power source for the 2 TR7 & the 530T. I tried already, but i think it will be a PIA to get it done, ill research further for this...
Anyone has better solution?
Might save me a headache...
Regards,
Chris
08-20-2010, 03:23 AM
#48
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I couldn't tell you without opening the door and looking. Get out your handy dandy multimeter and start testing things is my only suggestion. I am pretty sure that there is another constant + in the door but I don't know where. If you don't have a multimeter go out and spend $15 on a cheapo one, it is really worth it.
08-20-2010, 11:03 PM
#49
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I tested all the wires on the drivers side door.
Check the pictures...
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/7741/tweeter.jpg
^
even though i know that this speaker don't need a power source, i tested it anyway to make sure... nothing though...
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/7251/mirroe.jpg
^
wires for the mirror, nothing here...
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/4243/locku.jpg
^
this one has only constant 4V
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/6836/imore.jpg
^
one of the connectors the goes to the door panel. nothing...
http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/7...tchharness.jpg
^
and this two has 12V if the key is switch to ON position, the big one also has constant 4V.
to cut the story short, i didn't find any constant 12V.
I have to research about running a wire from the driver side door to the driver side foot well now...
I never thought this will be a total PIA, but for sure this will be worth it...
Regards,
Chris
Check the pictures...
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/7741/tweeter.jpg
^
even though i know that this speaker don't need a power source, i tested it anyway to make sure... nothing though...
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/7251/mirroe.jpg
^
wires for the mirror, nothing here...
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/4243/locku.jpg
^
this one has only constant 4V
http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/6836/imore.jpg
^
one of the connectors the goes to the door panel. nothing...
http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/7...tchharness.jpg
^
and this two has 12V if the key is switch to ON position, the big one also has constant 4V.
to cut the story short, i didn't find any constant 12V.
I have to research about running a wire from the driver side door to the driver side foot well now...
I never thought this will be a total PIA, but for sure this will be worth it...
Regards,
Chris
08-21-2010, 09:07 AM
#50
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Running wire through the door is a total PITA. I ended up taking the doors completely off to get my 14ga speaker wire through the connector.
Sad to hear that there is no 12v constant without the bose. I was thinking about trying this, but I don't think I have enough room to run any more wire through that connector.
Sad to hear that there is no 12v constant without the bose. I was thinking about trying this, but I don't think I have enough room to run any more wire through that connector.
