Sway Bar, Sway Bars, Sway Bars
#26
Out of NYC
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
LOL
I have the RB front bar with endlink holes drilled 3/4" forward of the RB holes to make it even stiffer coupled with the softer OE auto trans rear bar, along with 600# front and 325# coilover springs and the car has so much oversteer it's almost impossible to drive without spinning
I just ordered the stiffer Speedsource adjustable blade-arm front bar from Mazda Motorsports; 1.25" OD 0.25" wall, $518. I'll post some pics so you can see what a real racing swaybar looks like.
I have the RB front bar with endlink holes drilled 3/4" forward of the RB holes to make it even stiffer coupled with the softer OE auto trans rear bar, along with 600# front and 325# coilover springs and the car has so much oversteer it's almost impossible to drive without spinning
I just ordered the stiffer Speedsource adjustable blade-arm front bar from Mazda Motorsports; 1.25" OD 0.25" wall, $518. I'll post some pics so you can see what a real racing swaybar looks like.
#27
Would anybody have any information on this sway bar: http://www.smallfortuneracing.com/Pr...reetCars1.html
Also I just noticed that RE-Amemiya has released solid adjustable sway bars and was wondering if anybody had any opinions?
Also I just noticed that RE-Amemiya has released solid adjustable sway bars and was wondering if anybody had any opinions?
#28
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I'm suprised they built it like that with the long splined center bar and straight arms. I'd be concerned about a wide wheel stuffed to the inside i.e. Enkei 18 x 9.5, would have the inside lip contact it at full steering lock, especially if you use a wheel diameter smaller than 18". That's why the OE bar makes the double 45 deg bend on the outside corners rather than going straight out and turning 90 deg; for inside wheel clearance.
I built a similar custom one last year, but with splined center bar ends only coming out just past the D-bushings and the arms having a double 45 deg angle out to the endlink position for max inside wheel clearance. Building the arms this way is really tough though. You can buy the straight arms and all the other parts at any number of circle track racing parts suppliers. All you have to do is buy the proper length and wall thickness splined center bar and drill the adjsuatble endlink mounting holes in the arms. Everything else would be bolt-on.
I built a similar custom one last year, but with splined center bar ends only coming out just past the D-bushings and the arms having a double 45 deg angle out to the endlink position for max inside wheel clearance. Building the arms this way is really tough though. You can buy the straight arms and all the other parts at any number of circle track racing parts suppliers. All you have to do is buy the proper length and wall thickness splined center bar and drill the adjsuatble endlink mounting holes in the arms. Everything else would be bolt-on.
#29
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BTW, forgot to come back and say that I canceled the SPeedsource bar order. It's just the speedweay type splined center bar with bolt-on aluminum arms that have three endlink adjhustment holes on each side, includes urethane D-bushings and heim joint endlinks. The description I got from Motorsports led me to believe that it had the trick rotating-type adjustable blade arms, but that's not the case. I've already built one of those last year and can do it myself for less than $500.
#30
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we used to have the speedway type (also called NASCAR style, as it was NASCAR) bar on my dads race car. very nice sway bar!
just thought I would throw that out there.... not that it has anything to do with all this
just thought I would throw that out there.... not that it has anything to do with all this
#31
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
LOL
I have the RB front bar with endlink holes drilled 3/4" forward of the RB holes to make it even stiffer coupled with the softer OE auto trans rear bar, along with 600# front and 325# coilover springs and the car has so much oversteer it's almost impossible to drive without spinning
I just ordered the stiffer Speedsource adjustable blade-arm front bar from Mazda Motorsports; 1.25" OD 0.25" wall, $518. I'll post some pics so you can see what a real racing swaybar looks like.
I have the RB front bar with endlink holes drilled 3/4" forward of the RB holes to make it even stiffer coupled with the softer OE auto trans rear bar, along with 600# front and 325# coilover springs and the car has so much oversteer it's almost impossible to drive without spinning
I just ordered the stiffer Speedsource adjustable blade-arm front bar from Mazda Motorsports; 1.25" OD 0.25" wall, $518. I'll post some pics so you can see what a real racing swaybar looks like.
Team, coming from a 6sp sport, which set up would you recommend for more of a 'neutral' feel? I don’t want to mess with either springs or coilovers. I don’t autocross, I'm just trying to elimate the tail from breaking loose. Anyone feel free to add comments and or suggestions.
#33
Team, coming from a 6sp sport, which set up would you recommend for more of a 'neutral' feel? I don’t want to mess with either springs or coilovers. I don’t autocross, I'm just trying to elimate the tail from breaking loose. Anyone feel free to add comments and or suggestions.
I don't have any wheel hop in the rear. On a standing start I can sway the back end left to right and back pretty easily with some steering input without wheel hop.
The car is sooo stable and predictable that I don't worry that much about traction loss cause I know what it's going to do and that there wont be any drama.
#34
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hey speeddemon we need specs on RE Amemiya's swaybars! they appear to be 3-way adj. front _and_ rear. anyone have the scoop?
#37
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hmm, well, here's RE A's 3-way front and rear adj. sway bar page. here's what i can glean:
* Front: φ25.0
UP ratio (STD) 161% 130% 107%
UP ratio (TypeS) 140% 113% 93%
* Rear: φ15.0
UP ratio (STD) 153% 125% 103%
UP ratio (TypeS) 122% 100% 83%
now i assume the notations above mean the front bar has a 27mm OD and the rear a 15mm OD.
what does STD and TypeS mean? crazy JP tuner web pages...
* Front: φ25.0
UP ratio (STD) 161% 130% 107%
UP ratio (TypeS) 140% 113% 93%
* Rear: φ15.0
UP ratio (STD) 153% 125% 103%
UP ratio (TypeS) 122% 100% 83%
now i assume the notations above mean the front bar has a 27mm OD and the rear a 15mm OD.
what does STD and TypeS mean? crazy JP tuner web pages...
#38
Out of NYC
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Originally Posted by shinronin
hmm, well, here's RE A's 3-way front and rear adj. sway bar page. here's what i can glean:
* Front: φ25.0
UP ratio (STD) 161% 130% 107%
UP ratio (TypeS) 140% 113% 93%
* Rear: φ15.0
UP ratio (STD) 153% 125% 103%
UP ratio (TypeS) 122% 100% 83%
now i assume the notations above mean the front bar has a 27mm OD and the rear a 15mm OD.
what does STD and TypeS mean? crazy JP tuner web pages...
* Front: φ25.0
UP ratio (STD) 161% 130% 107%
UP ratio (TypeS) 140% 113% 93%
* Rear: φ15.0
UP ratio (STD) 153% 125% 103%
UP ratio (TypeS) 122% 100% 83%
now i assume the notations above mean the front bar has a 27mm OD and the rear a 15mm OD.
what does STD and TypeS mean? crazy JP tuner web pages...
#40
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
LOL
I have the RB front bar with endlink holes drilled 3/4" forward of the RB holes to make it even stiffer coupled with the softer OE auto trans rear bar, along with 600# front and 325# coilover springs and the car has so much oversteer it's almost impossible to drive without spinning
I just ordered the stiffer Speedsource adjustable blade-arm front bar from Mazda Motorsports; 1.25" OD 0.25" wall, $518. I'll post some pics so you can see what a real racing swaybar looks like.
I have the RB front bar with endlink holes drilled 3/4" forward of the RB holes to make it even stiffer coupled with the softer OE auto trans rear bar, along with 600# front and 325# coilover springs and the car has so much oversteer it's almost impossible to drive without spinning
I just ordered the stiffer Speedsource adjustable blade-arm front bar from Mazda Motorsports; 1.25" OD 0.25" wall, $518. I'll post some pics so you can see what a real racing swaybar looks like.
#41
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FYI, I cancelled the Speedsource bae after finding out it wasn't what I thought
some of us including me are running the Progress Tech bars now, which are stiffer than RB and adjustable, the front bar is the same as the Speedsource bar but much less costly
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-55/sway-bars-109096/
also while installing a new limited slip last week I discovered that the tierod end on the rear camber arm was boogered up and not letting the nut tighten all the way down, whcich was probably letting that rear wheel move in/out in the toe direction, that may be the source of the oversteer issue, the spring rates should not be causing oversteer but I don't want to go any softer in the rear rate if they are, I never noticed it being loose with the suspension loaded but once I had the coilover and wheel taken off it had quite a large amount of slop in it
some of us including me are running the Progress Tech bars now, which are stiffer than RB and adjustable, the front bar is the same as the Speedsource bar but much less costly
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-55/sway-bars-109096/
also while installing a new limited slip last week I discovered that the tierod end on the rear camber arm was boogered up and not letting the nut tighten all the way down, whcich was probably letting that rear wheel move in/out in the toe direction, that may be the source of the oversteer issue, the spring rates should not be causing oversteer but I don't want to go any softer in the rear rate if they are, I never noticed it being loose with the suspension loaded but once I had the coilover and wheel taken off it had quite a large amount of slop in it
Last edited by TeamRX8; 04-06-2007 at 04:28 PM.
#46
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bumpety bump.
We gotta fill in some more of the specs in the 1st post
We gotta fill in some more of the specs in the 1st post
#47
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#48
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RB sway bars do not require you to use larger endlinks. The RB swaybar has stock sized holes and as supplied can use the stock endlinks. You only drill out these holes if you are going to use the larger size RB endlinks.
#49
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Anyone used or are using the tanabe sway bars / spring combo... it's a possible setup i'm considering... one of those "ballin on a budget" kinda moments. And i don't think gh0st ever got a definate answer, if your trying to drift (not all the time just every now and then for that added rush) are sway bars gonna help cause your chassis stays more solid and therefore moves in a more continuous line. or is it gonna hurt because the suspension is gonna be a LOT harder to break loose when you want it to?
Last edited by TJ2687; 02-21-2008 at 10:27 AM.
#50
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So which do you guys think are better: the Hotchkis adjustable sway bars, or the Progress Tech adjustable swaybars? The Hotchkis ones look quite promising based on the 3 way adjustability feature. These are the two I have narrowed my choices down to. All comments welcome.