When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I use NGK plugs and wires in my '07 GT. I feel that they work well, but I have read other comments that they will cause misfires or are no good. I would like to keep my 8 running for a long time. So am I harming my rotary by using NGK products? Any opinions would be appreciated.
I have not heard that either.
I'm on my 3rd set counting the originals, now with the BHR ignition and nearly 24k on the last 2 sets with no problems.
Just be sure they are the OEM laser iridium NGKs with the L & T #s.
I thought so... I was just making sure, because I read somewhere in an old thread on this forum about plug wires and someone commented that NGK were no good (and no one argued the point). My personal experience was that this couldn't be, I just wanted to check to make sure before I do my tune-up and replace the plugs and wires. Thanks guys
The wires that Charles of BHR sells are better than the OEM wires if you want to upgrade. The NGK plugs are fine. Some race with the Nippon Denso race iridium plugs, but they have a slightly different heat profile. I have used both and for my driving I like the Nippon Denso, but don't get me wrong, I have used NGK plugs of one type or another in almost all of my seven rotary cars over the decades and they are just fine. No need to run anything but NGK if you wish.
Last edited by gwilliams6; 02-27-2015 at 10:11 PM.
Or inexperienced people don't install them fully/properly on the sparkplug terminal end. It's actually pretty easy to make this mistake, especially if you don't have electrical grease on the boot ID to make it slide onto the sparkplug easily. The wire connector inside the boot will make a distinct 'click' sound when it becomes engaged and fully seated on the sparkplug terminal end.
Since I cannot make a new topic for some reason, I'll ask it here.
I am making a plasma discharge ignition for my rx-8 and I'd need to know how much the stock engine management can delay ignition? Wouldn't like to blow seals with this but it would surely be a nice plus for this kind of engine.
Would you just compare the two kinds of sparks? It has been said that this kind of ignition gives tons of low-end torque and lower fuel consumption, just what this kind of engine needs. It also gives much room for engine tuning, 22:1 afr is not uncommon with this. Here you can find more info if you're interested. Plasma Ignition | Plasma Jet Ignition
I also have an affiliate link for the ignition secrets e-book, is it ok to link it here?
Anyone know how much the knock sensor can delay ignition, since it maybe has to be delayed a lot. Or should I mess with maf sensor to delay it or wtf.
You seem to be asking for more headaches than you need, here. Maybe you just love to tinker and experiment with pushing the envelope. That's admirable. But proper ignition is so critical to the life and longevity of a rotary engine , I hope your engineering skills are up to the task, or it could be live or die for your engine.
I have heard that Mazda is experimenting with laser ignition for a possible future rotary engine that is on hold for now. How close to the benefits of that is your system?
Our knock sensor doesn't 'delay' ignition unless knock is heard. And by then it can be too late for your engine. Never rely on the knock sensor for anything, especially to save the engine. It's like using a nuclear bomb detection device with a radius of 100 feet. It will detect it, but detecting it won't matter. See the thread above for a good grasp on what ignition timing adjustments are possible with proper ECU reflashing
Doing anything with the MAF sensor without knowing exactly what you are doing is a recipe for a blown engine. There is nothing you can do with the MAF that will precisely change anything having to do with the ignition.
No offense, but you sound like you are in WAY over your head here... Some critically bad assumptions being made. Like the reason for the economy and torque of the Renesis. Very little of it has to do with the power of the ignition spark. Very much of it has to do with thermal dynamics, thermal efficiency, condensation rates, flame front speeds, port timing, and combustion chamber sealing.
Put down the tools for now, pick up reading material and start educating yourself.
I brought the lean burn to conversation just to raise interest to subject, I'm not gonna lean the afr, at least for now. Btw thanks for the link!
No offense, but I do think that with this kind of spark, I do think there's lots of room for improvement regarding torque and fuel economy, especially if the timing can be adjusted to fit this new kind of ignition. It has been made multiple times with piston engines, so why wouldn't it fit rotarys? Other plus sides are that you can use water injection with this and the lean burn limit is very low. Isn't it all just about making the fuel burn in reasonable temperature and controllable time, afr is just numbers.
I know iat sensor is the one to modify with ordinary engines to delay ignition, I assume in this car maf has some kind iat signal going to ecu?
The principle is simpler than you might think: ordinary ignition system first makes the spark as we all know, but in the same time it also ionizes the plug cap to have so little resistance that for example 110v dc can go through with high current. So we use ac inverter, rectify it to dc and charge a capacitor between sparks, when the plug fires, the cap discharges to spark plug tip through hv diodes. Resistorless plugs are MUST for this.
Simpliest way for this if you have cdi ignition is to just connect the LV+ of ignition coil to plug tip through hv diodes. Wouldn't hurt if someone had some dirtbike and tried? Wish I knew this in my 50cc times...
M L, I recommend you heed what RIWWP has said here, or be ready for a new engine. Is it really worth harming your engine for some possibility of minor improvement, without any extensive rotary engine research to back up your theories.
All we can do here is advise you. If you choose to kill your engine experimenting with this, and BTW you are NOT a rotary engineer, then it is all on you. It is interesting to discuss your theories, but NOT wise to experiment with your expensive engine.
Is it really so that when someone comes up with new ideas, it's best to begin doubting his skills and knowledge and assure nothing should be done, since only god and rotary engineers should touch the almighty renesis? Seriously, the cars are getting old and cheap and they always are far from perfect coming from factory. And I know a thing or two about cars since I am car mechanic by education. I did read the thread.
02-21-2015, 08:33 AM
