You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access
to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join RX8Club.com today!
Okay, so I'm just getting into actually doing things to my rx, and I don't know much, but I AM trying to learn. I've used the search box religiously and came across many things, but I haven't seemed to find anything on my particular situation, so I'd like some flame-free help from some of the more experienced rotorheads out there. If it HAS been covered before, I haven't found it through searching, so I apologize. Please either go over it again, or provide me with a link to where I can help myself. Here we go...So the opening in the stock exhaust manifold is for the air injection tube. On the stock manifold it has two threaded pins sticking out, which are placed through the holes on the air injection tube, then tightened down with nuts. On my aftermarket header, I just have two threaded holes. I believe it is a fluid motorsports header. I assume it is NOT reccomended to block off the air injection tube? I have a 2004 na rx8 with a k&n typhoon intake, a cat-delete pipe, and this header. What should I do about this, and how should I go about doing it? Should I block it off, should I......?
Here is a link of the opening I am talking about(In this link, it also has the pins with nuts, as the stock manifold does, except this one is blocked off)
the air injection is to speed up the cat warm up, it runs at start up then shuts off, it wont hurt anything besides emissions. It also wont pass inspection though with a cat delete.
__________________
2007 rx8 Crystal White Pearl 6 speed SOLD
1993 rx7 red 5 speed big ports Done: borgwarner single turbo bw s472, hks ignition, 6 injectors (2x850 4x1680), synapse 50 mm wastegate, d2s projectors in popups, dual denso pumps, weldon pressure regulator, e85. Want to do:m&w ignition, setrab oil cooler + fan, larger primary injectors(maxed out)
I wonder if anyone has uncovered it and ran the engine?
Besides if you put a pipe there you could also have a small john deere lawnmover muffler on it--let it hang down--swear by it and next thing you know 2-3 others would do the same---and it would run like a deere !
OD
Okay, so I'm just getting into actually doing things to my rx, and I don't know much, but I AM trying to learn. I've used the search box religiously and came across many things, but I haven't seemed to find anything on my particular situation, so I'd like some flame-free help from some of the more experienced rotorheads out there. If it HAS been covered before, I haven't found it through searching, so I apologize. Please either go over it again, or provide me with a link to where I can help myself. Here we go...So the opening in the stock exhaust manifold is for the air injection tube. On the stock manifold it has two threaded pins sticking out, which are placed through the holes on the air injection tube, then tightened down with nuts. On my aftermarket header, I just have two threaded holes. I believe it is a fluid motorsports header. I assume it is NOT reccomended to block off the air injection tube? I have a 2004 na rx8 with a k&n typhoon intake, a cat-delete pipe, and this header. What should I do about this, and how should I go about doing it? Should I block it off, should I......?
Here is a link of the opening I am talking about(In this link, it also has the pins with nuts, as the stock manifold does, except this one is blocked off)
you don't gotta be a genius to solve that problem... as i had no spare 10mm bolts with the proper thread reach when i installed MY header (same problem).
use the phillips head screws off your front license plate. they are easier to align to the gasket when installing. they only need to be handtightened, but feel free to replace with 10mm bolts afterwards that has proper thread reach.
such an easy problem to tackle...makes me wonder why you post for help if you've gone that far on a header install???
__________________ lbs.removed:stock-43lbs/6oz.(11/08) target:-100a lighter car is a faster car
Quote:
Originally Posted by Atilla
My Reason:
When i walked into each dealership i saw at least 5 guys walking around n' checkin' out either a z, g35, evo and subi. When i saw the 8 i saw 10 girls walking around it, touching the curves...it was pretty much a no brainer on who's attention i wanted to get
you don't gotta be a genius to solve that problem... as i had no spare 10mm bolts with the proper thread reach when i installed MY header (same problem).
use the phillips head screws off your front license plate. they are easier to align to the gasket when installing. they only need to be handtightened, but feel free to replace with 10mm bolts afterwards that has proper thread reach.
such an easy problem to tackle...makes me wonder why you post for help if you've gone that far on a header install???
I can haz ADHD? I jump into things without completely knowing what is necessary to complete everything. I know... BAD Ju-ju. BUT, I'm ALWAYS learning from my mistakes!!!
If you dont have a cat, you can make a block off plate and remove the pipe and secondary air pump and solenoid as its not needed anymore...
you will throw a CEL for it though.. you can disable it as well as the cat CEL with the Cobb AP
I can haz directions to remove air pump and solenoid?
Do I need a different belt, or anything else except to remove the pump and solenoid? Where is the solenoid? I see the pump.
What is with 'I can haz'?
Try 'May I have' . . . damn kids
Quote:
Originally Posted by cody205
Do I need a different belt
No... the air pump is electrical, not belt driven.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cody205
Where is the solenoid?
Behind the UIM, in front of the oil filter, top solenoid with a blue connector.
Simply disconnecting the electrical connection will prevent the valve from opening, no need to remove the whole solenoid.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cody205
I see the pump.
You can remove the pump itself, but not everything on that "bracket".
It also has a fuel resistor and sensor that will prevent the car from running if removed.
__________________ Current Mods: RB REVi Intake & Ram Air Duct, AP Catback Exhaust, MazSport DR Midpipe, AP Pulley, BHR Ignition Coils, BHR/SPEC Flywheel, ACT Counterweight, Exedy Stage 1 Clutch Kit, HD Release Bearing, AccessPort w/MazdaManiac tune, REmedy Thermostat & Water Pump, AFE Short Shifter, Lotek Pod with ProSport Gauges, Axxess iPod Adapter, Illuminated Shift Knob, Bridgestone Potenza RE760, OPTIMA 35 RedTop Battery. Oils: Engine= Royal Purple 5w30, Trans= Redline MT-90, Diff= Redline 75w90
Lol. my wife changed my phone around. She does it from time to time, then sits back and watches as I make an *** out of myself online, or when I send emails to people with higher rank.(US Army) Sorry about that. Thank you for the directions. Helped out quite a bit. I am trying to learn all I can without learning from my OWN mistakes. BUT, I always end up to do so, in one way or another anyways.