DungeonKeeper

I can probably do it.
so If I just go in to watch and what not. how is that go. humm.. at what time. I dont know... let me know how to arrange ill like to be more involved

scolon

iTrader: (2)

I can't take anymore days off work. This semester is turning out to be a little too expensive so I need to bust my *** to get some $$$.

scolon

iTrader: (2)

If you have the car then use it! Go out have fun. Don't just go to watch.

cavemancan

I posted all the info in one of my posts on page 2.

I believe it is free to spectate...The orlando autocross is the first event I ever saw that requires payment for spectators.

DungeonKeeper

my car its in a really bad shape. I need to fix it. I just dont have the mula to do it. heck as it is I need to change the wires, coils and spark plugs and I dont have any money to pay someone to do it. plus I need to order the stuff too. best deal I found was, coils,wires,sparkplugs, air filter and oil filter for 400. any of you know of a better price. or should I buy the $30 coils from autozone.. I really dont want to do that because quality but if you guys think it makes no difference I might do that

cavemancan

You only have two options as I see it:

- Buy OEM stock coils or
- Get the Black Halo Kit

Any other option will be a big mistake. It well known and documented that the coils, wires, and plugs last in the neighborhood of 20 to 30 k miles before they start going bad under street driven conditions. Now add racing to that equation and I suggest getting the BHR kit which will last MUCH longer (very cheap considering how long the kit will last compared to stock) and be prepared to stock spark plugs just in case you have any issues.

Air filter is cheap...oil filter is cheap...you can get the decent Autozone or Discount autoparts brands and the car will run and perform just fine. Your money should be spent on the ignition. That is one of the major components of the engine and should not be short changed EVER.

This is what you should do:

- BHR kit PLUS Plugs: $579
- Air Filter: $20
- Oil Filter: $15

Total: $614

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

keeper ima send you a PM...

scolon

iTrader: (2)

I think all of us on this thread know how to do all of your maintenance and would be more than happy to teach you how.

Take it from me, never get autozone or any knock off coils. OEM is the only "reliable" coil. That being said, BHR coils is nxt on my mod list.

If you decide not to take the BHR route, then you can check out raceroots. I know they sell a complete oem ignition set as a bundle.

cavemancan

Car status Bee-otch! Whats going on?

scolon

iTrader: (2)

Its been running better. None of the problems of sounding strange or losing power. However starting up takes a little long and the idle is still kinda rough. I'm just happy the car can move lol.

chino0314

iTrader: (12)

Sounds like an ignition problem, check your coils, pull you plugs and clean the and spray them with ether you should be fine....

scolon

iTrader: (2)

Ya this after I've done all that. Prior to replacing coils and cleaning plugs, it barely ran at all.

chino0314

iTrader: (12)

Have you tried resetting the fuel trims

scolon

iTrader: (2)

The brake pump trick? Not recently. Ill do it when I go to drive again

chino0314

iTrader: (12)

Lol yes the brake pump trick... Let us know how that goes

cavemancan

Shane...

Do the following:

- Clean your MAF sensor (BE VERY CAREFUL! The sensor is fragile and expensive...Do not use anything other the spray and double check on line for proper MAF cleaning techniques)
- Clean your throttle body (old tooth brush and carborator cleaner...Same for MAF)
- Clean your crank position sensor (use same carb cleaner...Located behind the escentric shaft pully)
- 20 stomp

Then take her out for a spin and see how it goes. If she is still running bad then you may have a compression issue. Did you ever get the compression checked? I would do this no matter how well the engine is running. These are all signs of an issue.

scolon

iTrader: (2)

Will do. I've cleaned the MAF plenty of times but ill do it again. Ill clean those connections as well.

DungeonKeeper

Im sorry for my ignorance , whats the MAF, and how do you know if you are having trouble with the throttle body? I take to clean it correctly it would be in the DIY

Ricky SE3P

iTrader: (10)

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=site%3Arx8club.com+clean+MAF
and for the sake of a good post, heres a good one i tracked down just make sure you use MAF cleaner only or you'll damage it.
https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...71&postcount=9

Chris113113

So, starting mid-last week, my engine is giving off a really high pitched whine when the RPMs start crawling up. In the mornings, engine temperature is right in the middle, the noise starts at about 3.5k, and then later in the day it starts around 5.5. Anybody have any thoughts to what it is? I'll try to film it later.

chino0314

iTrader: (12)

caveman do you know how to mask the CEL on the Cobb? i can reset but id be doing that all the damn time......

cavemancan

Once I installed MM base tune on the car the Cell turned off by itself. Whats the code? Are you still within your 6 month period for tuning? If you are we are having a tuning session right now.

cavemancan

Well ladies I am glad to say tuning is almost done but it may be all for not cause I'm thinking about a turbo now...LMAO!!

Ok so here is my experience:

- MM Base tune: similar to the stock engine tune but slightly smoother
- MM 4_0_1: Slight power increase with a cleaner/smoother idle
- MM 4_0_2: Definate power improvement with additional idle clean up (more flames from exhaust prob due to slight fuel enrichment to keep tune safe)
- MM 4_0_3: I'm not saying that I am making a ton of power cause this is not the case but I can see another good increase in power...Much like the jump experienced in tune 2. I went from a lazy tune (stock) to a rabbid squirrel tune (#3).

The biggest improvement here is in the midrange power. Mid range is sooo much more responsive over stock. It's funny I never understood why people would say there is no need to shift at 9k and getting the car tuned has revealed the truth to me. Basically, the power starts to fall off at really high rpms so much that there is no need to shift past 8k...Your reving with little return in acceleration In fact I'm going to ask MM to please set my shift beep at 8k so I can stay in the power band more often while racing.

I knew this before hand but wasn't sure what to believe. The increase in power def helps to prove the point. Now, I've seen some vendors that build new intake manafolds for us that would fix that power drop off but for the money I think your better off getting a turbo. That manafold should only be bought by the series racer. Ironically I may end up doing that some day but who knows.

Turbo first...

scolon

iTrader: (2)

Ill be getting my tune someday.....ignition coils first!

scolon

iTrader: (2)

Alright so I did what you guys recommended and the car seems to be running better.
I need to take it for a few more drives so the fuel trims set but the idle sounds better outside the car and it doesn't shake the car anymore.

Thanks for the help. I guess I just needed to give the car a little TLC.

Now It's time to start working more to save up for BHR coils