Nopstnz8

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys I was wondering if anyone knows how to do this? It seems like they still have brake dust on them even after the car is washed, which causes it to get all over the wheels once you apply the brakes. Does anyone know how to fix this? I hate having to wipe down the wheels again after I just washed them. Thanks.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

ebay.

search. cross driller slot cleaner..

done..

beers

heyarnold69

iTrader: (1)

i use a george forman grill sponge and brake cleaner.

Nopstnz8

iTrader: (6)

Do you have to remove the wheels and rotors to do this, or can you just spray it on with the wheels on?

mysql

hmm, I have no problem with it. You still using stock pads? Might want to get Hawk ceramic pads.

Nopstnz8

iTrader: (6)

Yeah that is exactly what I am planning on doing because with the oem pads, my wheels are covered in dust after a day of driving probably only 20 miles. Could you give me a link to the exact name of the pads? Also, is the brake performance just as good or better than oem? Thanks.

Razz1

Or try Porterfield Kevlar brake pads.

BMonkey

Go to this place http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/search.jsp, it's where I got mine. Just enter your specific rx-8 model (though I'm 95% sure all 8's use the same pads).

I've had the hawk ceramic pads on my car for awhile now and I can say that they dust MUCH less. Before this I had the Mazdaspeed B-spec pads on and holy jesus... you think the stock pads dust alot? Anyways, performance is going to be a direct compromise to dust so if you want ultra-low dust pads, you're going to be sacrificing absolute braking power and heat resistance. Just consider how often you're actually threshold braking your car. How often you're making repeated hard stops from high speed. Also, consider your tires, even the hawk ceramic pads with the stock tires can easily over power the tire's level of grip and cause the ABS to kick in. If you want low dust and maximum stopping power, get the ceramic pads and a really good set of tires and you'll be good for everything but track day.

chuck rx-8

Ya hawk pads are the best

imrtommy

no they are not. axxiss and posiquiet work just as well.

anyway back on subject, just order new performance C/S rotors from me!

Symbioticgenius

Why not a track day... just a little noob curiosity?

Highway8

iTrader: (11)

I have the hawk ceramic pads on all 4's and the front rotors are the open slot 2-piece racing brake rotors and stainless steel lines. I used and abused them on the track and had no problems. I was very impressed with the amount and consitancy of stopping power, lack of brake fade and low brake dust. I was also running a set of nitto nto1 245's and if I hammered the brakes I could get the ABS to kick in (probably from the rear getting light). After 6-20 min sessions and 1-30 minute session the brake dust was less then the stock pads after about 500 miles of regular driving and it seemed to clean up a lot easier then stock.

To clean the rotors I just sprayed out the brake dust with compressed air then sprayed them off with water from the hose.

BMonkey

At a racetrack you're most likely to see maximum pad temperatures due to repeated threshold stops from high speed. Brake pads have heat ranges they're designed to operate in to give you the best performance. Pads like the Mazdaspeed B-Spec pads will squeak and make grinding sounds and not "bite" when they're cold. Where pads like the Hawk ceramic pads will have consistent performance and quiet operation, along with ultra low dust in day to day driving situations. But take the Mazdaspeed B-Spec pads out to the track and run a couple of laps to build up heat... and all of a sudden they have alot of bite and they won't fade quickly. Pads like the Hawk ceramic pads out on the track suffer from alot of fade (since you're a "noob", fade could be described as a lowering of the coefficient of friction of the brake pads due to excessive heat, or more practically, pressing the brake pedal a certain amount that would normally cause the car to stop at X rate and not stopping at X rate, but Y rate).

Of course, the need for this depends also on what type of racetrack, your individual car's set up and your skill level. If you're running stock tires/wheels, the brakes will have more time to stop from X speed than if you were running... Hoosier slicks with forged magnesium wheels. That also plays into your skill level, if you can perfectly time the braking points so that you are threshold braking from the moment you apply the brakes for a corner to the moment you let off, you're going to build maximum braking heat. Finally, the type of track you're running matters too because something like an autocross course isn't going to build the types of speed you'd see at... willow springs raceway or laguna seca.