CS / BS solo recipes?
06-07-2013, 07:41 AM
#76
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Howdy,
I tried some rear toe in earlier this year with the same camber settings I have now and took it out to help the car rotate a bit more. Otherwise I'm pretty close to what you're talking about I think? Front camber is at ~ maximum, rear camber is a bit less than the front.
Considering that the issue I have now is that the car is still a little tighter than I want it, I don't see how putting rear toe back in the car is a positive move forward.
Mark
I tried some rear toe in earlier this year with the same camber settings I have now and took it out to help the car rotate a bit more. Otherwise I'm pretty close to what you're talking about I think? Front camber is at ~ maximum, rear camber is a bit less than the front.
Considering that the issue I have now is that the car is still a little tighter than I want it, I don't see how putting rear toe back in the car is a positive move forward.
Mark
You have so many things backwards wrt understanding its hard to begin
First, no RX8 on street tires should have zero rear toe for competition use. While the factory alignment setting is almost zero it also is minimal front camber. You have taken stock class R tire info and not recognized the grip difference changes required by real street tires.
Shocks are for transitions such as slaloms, offsets, etc. and mostly corner entry and some corner exit.
Springs and swaybars control mid-corner/steady state handling balance.
Try this:
Max front camber (should be somewhere around -1.8 to -2.0 deg with those shocks)
Minimum caster (around 4 deg, maybe in the 3 range)
1/8" - 1/4" front toe out total
Rear camber should be between equal to 0.3 deg less than the front
1/8" toe in per side (1/4" total)
Your first goal is to get the steady state handling neutral combined with tire pressure settings. Then tune for transitions. It can be an interative process.
.
First, no RX8 on street tires should have zero rear toe for competition use. While the factory alignment setting is almost zero it also is minimal front camber. You have taken stock class R tire info and not recognized the grip difference changes required by real street tires.
Shocks are for transitions such as slaloms, offsets, etc. and mostly corner entry and some corner exit.
Springs and swaybars control mid-corner/steady state handling balance.
Try this:
Max front camber (should be somewhere around -1.8 to -2.0 deg with those shocks)
Minimum caster (around 4 deg, maybe in the 3 range)
1/8" - 1/4" front toe out total
Rear camber should be between equal to 0.3 deg less than the front
1/8" toe in per side (1/4" total)
Your first goal is to get the steady state handling neutral combined with tire pressure settings. Then tune for transitions. It can be an interative process.
.
08-08-2013, 03:50 PM
#77
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8 View Post
You have so many things backwards wrt understanding its hard to begin
First, no RX8 on street tires should have zero rear toe for competition use. While the factory alignment setting is almost zero it also is minimal front camber. You have taken stock class R tire info and not recognized the grip difference changes required by real street tires.
Shocks are for transitions such as slaloms, offsets, etc. and mostly corner entry and some corner exit.
Springs and swaybars control mid-corner/steady state handling balance.
Try this:
Max front camber (should be somewhere around -1.8 to -2.0 deg with those shocks)
Minimum caster (around 4 deg, maybe in the 3 range)
1/8" - 1/4" front toe out total
Rear camber should be between equal to 0.3 deg less than the front
1/8" toe in per side (1/4" total)
Your first goal is to get the steady state handling neutral combined with tire pressure settings. Then tune for transitions. It can be an interative process.
You have so many things backwards wrt understanding its hard to begin
First, no RX8 on street tires should have zero rear toe for competition use. While the factory alignment setting is almost zero it also is minimal front camber. You have taken stock class R tire info and not recognized the grip difference changes required by real street tires.
Shocks are for transitions such as slaloms, offsets, etc. and mostly corner entry and some corner exit.
Springs and swaybars control mid-corner/steady state handling balance.
Try this:
Max front camber (should be somewhere around -1.8 to -2.0 deg with those shocks)
Minimum caster (around 4 deg, maybe in the 3 range)
1/8" - 1/4" front toe out total
Rear camber should be between equal to 0.3 deg less than the front
1/8" toe in per side (1/4" total)
Your first goal is to get the steady state handling neutral combined with tire pressure settings. Then tune for transitions. It can be an interative process.
Right now I'm at:
Front: -1.8 degrees, max caster (7.5), and 0 toe
Rear: -1.5 degrees toe in at 1/8" per side
I'm gonna try and run some toe in for the front as you recommended at the next event (8 weeks away
). I'm curious to see why min caster?
Last edited by poacherinthezoo; 08-08-2013 at 03:58 PM.
11-08-2013, 01:46 PM
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If you knew Mark from other forums you wouldn't think it was off-topic. ;-)
Anyway, I plan on trying out a rather unorthodox setup for my CS RX-8 with a leftover NC Miata rear bar - we will see how it goes.
Anyway, I plan on trying out a rather unorthodox setup for my CS RX-8 with a leftover NC Miata rear bar - we will see how it goes.
Last edited by Rexpelagi; 11-08-2013 at 01:50 PM.
11-08-2013, 04:33 PM
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Cool story bra.
11-08-2013, 04:48 PM
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Pardon my ignorance, but would 17's be legal in street on my 2011 R3? If so what width and offset? I was under the impression that 18x8's were the wheel I was shopping for (and not finding anything light available short of 3 peice cu$tom built)
11-08-2013, 04:58 PM
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Even on 18's though I think you still will have better gearing than a series 1 with 17's, although your ride height will be higher.
Last edited by Rexpelagi; 11-08-2013 at 06:22 PM.
11-08-2013, 06:08 PM
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Howdy,
Want to buy a set of 18x8 OZ's with or without some Rivals with 100 or so runs already mounted? I'm going to switch to 17x8 wheels.
PM me for details.
And in terms of "who's in for 2014"... I am. Probably going to be running 17x8's with 235/40-17 wheels to get the diameter down. Haven't decided on a brand yet. I'm considering having Koni build me some upside down 3011's valves similarly to my current DA konis so that I can get to the rebound adjuster.
It'll be interesting to see if anyone will pony up MCS type money and if they get a benefit from it.
Mark
Mark
Want to buy a set of 18x8 OZ's with or without some Rivals with 100 or so runs already mounted? I'm going to switch to 17x8 wheels.
PM me for details.
And in terms of "who's in for 2014"... I am. Probably going to be running 17x8's with 235/40-17 wheels to get the diameter down. Haven't decided on a brand yet. I'm considering having Koni build me some upside down 3011's valves similarly to my current DA konis so that I can get to the rebound adjuster.
It'll be interesting to see if anyone will pony up MCS type money and if they get a benefit from it.
Mark
Mark
Last edited by marka; 11-08-2013 at 06:28 PM.
11-17-2013, 10:03 PM
#89
Success with new Koni's
So after chewing on this for nearly a month and scouring the site for data I finally found a decent price on Koni Yellows. My 1/2 worn R1R's really came alive.
Thanks to TeamRX8 for volunteering his information repeatedly on this board I set the rears to 1 1/4 turns out of a total 2 1/4 = 55%. Great highway ride too. I found 1 1/2 turns on the fronts were pretty much dead on and went as high as 1 3/4 but started hitting cones and wasn't crazy about the feel but still was fast.
I got a laughable factory front alignment instead of the "yeah we can do those numbers" at Mazda dealer who installed them.
Anyhow max -1.5 somehow became 0 front camber....doh. The car does handle well tho' with the toe settings and rear camber they got right so I'm in no rush to change it.
I took the car to a BMW autocross on concrete today and I am super pleased even with the lame alignment specs the car is better than ever. Totally planted and super fast. Got in 11 runs counting 2 reruns. Awesome. I had a 47.5 on R1R's and Danny Shields had a 44.1 FTD on R compounds with his Porsche so I'm happy. He's an alien and way younger than me.
I easily beat my also heavily experienced friend with an S2000 by .6 seconds. He used to beat me up routinely. Not anymore. I still can go get a proper competition alignment and beat him up more if need be. I have alot of people who I can gage my progress against in all classes over time.
I don't go out of state to race anymore. This is just for Central FL bragging rights and winning is always more fun than losing. These shocks will last me a very long time.
Thanks for the good info. This otherwise factory stock RX8 with 72k kicks butt better than ever. I like these so much I ordered a set of Reds for my 86 Mustang GT.
Thanks to TeamRX8 for volunteering his information repeatedly on this board I set the rears to 1 1/4 turns out of a total 2 1/4 = 55%. Great highway ride too. I found 1 1/2 turns on the fronts were pretty much dead on and went as high as 1 3/4 but started hitting cones and wasn't crazy about the feel but still was fast.
I got a laughable factory front alignment instead of the "yeah we can do those numbers" at Mazda dealer who installed them.
Anyhow max -1.5 somehow became 0 front camber....doh. The car does handle well tho' with the toe settings and rear camber they got right so I'm in no rush to change it.
I took the car to a BMW autocross on concrete today and I am super pleased even with the lame alignment specs the car is better than ever. Totally planted and super fast. Got in 11 runs counting 2 reruns. Awesome. I had a 47.5 on R1R's and Danny Shields had a 44.1 FTD on R compounds with his Porsche so I'm happy. He's an alien and way younger than me.
I easily beat my also heavily experienced friend with an S2000 by .6 seconds. He used to beat me up routinely. Not anymore. I still can go get a proper competition alignment and beat him up more if need be. I have alot of people who I can gage my progress against in all classes over time.
I don't go out of state to race anymore. This is just for Central FL bragging rights and winning is always more fun than losing. These shocks will last me a very long time.
Thanks for the good info. This otherwise factory stock RX8 with 72k kicks butt better than ever. I like these so much I ordered a set of Reds for my 86 Mustang GT.
11-19-2013, 01:24 PM
#90
Water Foul
I'm in for C Street-R in 2014, and am in the process of making car setup decisions for my Series II. My focus thus far has been on fixing the nut behind the wheel, which still needs a lot of work, but I am at least at a point where improving the size and shape of my grip circle makes sense.
I will be running on house brand Tire Rack 18x8 +50 rims I already have (23lbs each). Tires will be Potenza RE-11s to start. Due to storage constraints, I can only run one set of track wheels at a time, so I will be on these until they wear out, even though I am only lukewarm to them for AutoX.
The next decision to make is what shocks to use. Best options appear to be either Bilstein B6 HD NA shocks or Koni Sport SA shocks. The Bilsteins are supposed to be matched to the stock spring rate on the car, but I cannot find any information to confirm this. Bilstein USA could only give me "I think so." when I called them. That does not create much confidence. I still kinda like this idea because of prior experience with Bilstein shocks on other cars--even though they are non-adjustable.
Koni Yellows have the added benefit of giving me 0.5" of legal lowering and single adjustability. My hesitations in going with Konis are that no vendors seem to agree on part numbers for S2 cars, and Koni's catalog is of little help. Also, friends who use them report the adjustments are not predictable nor repeatable.
Once I make a decision on shocks, it will be off to the alignment shop to try to get at least -1.8 camber in the front and -1.5 in the rear. I will leave toe straight at first and adjust later if needed.
The final decision relates to the sway bars. According to the 2013 rules, I can change or replace one bar. If needed, I could drill another hole in my stock 26.7mm bar to make it a little stiffer. Otherwise, I have my eyes on a set of Progress Miata bars that seem to fall in the medium stiffness group of options for our cars. That set should provide me a lot of options in dialing in the car even if I can only use one of them at a time.
Other than a CG-Lock for the driver's side, that is all I am thinking for 2014 other than practice, practice, practice.
Any thoughts on my strategery? What are other folks doing for next year?
I will be running on house brand Tire Rack 18x8 +50 rims I already have (23lbs each). Tires will be Potenza RE-11s to start. Due to storage constraints, I can only run one set of track wheels at a time, so I will be on these until they wear out, even though I am only lukewarm to them for AutoX.
The next decision to make is what shocks to use. Best options appear to be either Bilstein B6 HD NA shocks or Koni Sport SA shocks. The Bilsteins are supposed to be matched to the stock spring rate on the car, but I cannot find any information to confirm this. Bilstein USA could only give me "I think so." when I called them. That does not create much confidence. I still kinda like this idea because of prior experience with Bilstein shocks on other cars--even though they are non-adjustable.
Koni Yellows have the added benefit of giving me 0.5" of legal lowering and single adjustability. My hesitations in going with Konis are that no vendors seem to agree on part numbers for S2 cars, and Koni's catalog is of little help. Also, friends who use them report the adjustments are not predictable nor repeatable.
Once I make a decision on shocks, it will be off to the alignment shop to try to get at least -1.8 camber in the front and -1.5 in the rear. I will leave toe straight at first and adjust later if needed.
The final decision relates to the sway bars. According to the 2013 rules, I can change or replace one bar. If needed, I could drill another hole in my stock 26.7mm bar to make it a little stiffer. Otherwise, I have my eyes on a set of Progress Miata bars that seem to fall in the medium stiffness group of options for our cars. That set should provide me a lot of options in dialing in the car even if I can only use one of them at a time.
Other than a CG-Lock for the driver's side, that is all I am thinking for 2014 other than practice, practice, practice.
Any thoughts on my strategery? What are other folks doing for next year?
Last edited by Steve Dallas; 11-19-2013 at 01:26 PM.
11-19-2013, 07:42 PM
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I'm in for C Street-R in 2014, and am in the process of making car setup decisions for my Series II. My focus thus far has been on fixing the nut behind the wheel, which still needs a lot of work, but I am at least at a point where improving the size and shape of my grip circle makes sense.
I will be running on house brand Tire Rack 18x8 +50 rims I already have (23lbs each). Tires will be Potenza RE-11s to start. Due to storage constraints, I can only run one set of track wheels at a time, so I will be on these until they wear out, even though I am only lukewarm to them for AutoX.
The next decision to make is what shocks to use. Best options appear to be either Bilstein B6 HD NA shocks or Koni Sport SA shocks. The Bilsteins are supposed to be matched to the stock spring rate on the car, but I cannot find any information to confirm this. Bilstein USA could only give me "I think so." when I called them. That does not create much confidence. I still kinda like this idea because of prior experience with Bilstein shocks on other cars--even though they are non-adjustable.
Koni Yellows have the added benefit of giving me 0.5" of legal lowering and single adjustability. My hesitations in going with Konis are that no vendors seem to agree on part numbers for S2 cars, and Koni's catalog is of little help. Also, friends who use them report the adjustments are not predictable nor repeatable.
Once I make a decision on shocks, it will be off to the alignment shop to try to get at least -1.8 camber in the front and -1.5 in the rear. I will leave toe straight at first and adjust later if needed.
The final decision relates to the sway bars. According to the 2013 rules, I can change or replace one bar. If needed, I could drill another hole in my stock 26.7mm bar to make it a little stiffer. Otherwise, I have my eyes on a set of Progress Miata bars that seem to fall in the medium stiffness group of options for our cars. That set should provide me a lot of options in dialing in the car even if I can only use one of them at a time.
Other than a CG-Lock for the driver's side, that is all I am thinking for 2014 other than practice, practice, practice.
Any thoughts on my strategery? What are other folks doing for next year?
I will be running on house brand Tire Rack 18x8 +50 rims I already have (23lbs each). Tires will be Potenza RE-11s to start. Due to storage constraints, I can only run one set of track wheels at a time, so I will be on these until they wear out, even though I am only lukewarm to them for AutoX.
The next decision to make is what shocks to use. Best options appear to be either Bilstein B6 HD NA shocks or Koni Sport SA shocks. The Bilsteins are supposed to be matched to the stock spring rate on the car, but I cannot find any information to confirm this. Bilstein USA could only give me "I think so." when I called them. That does not create much confidence. I still kinda like this idea because of prior experience with Bilstein shocks on other cars--even though they are non-adjustable.
Koni Yellows have the added benefit of giving me 0.5" of legal lowering and single adjustability. My hesitations in going with Konis are that no vendors seem to agree on part numbers for S2 cars, and Koni's catalog is of little help. Also, friends who use them report the adjustments are not predictable nor repeatable.
Once I make a decision on shocks, it will be off to the alignment shop to try to get at least -1.8 camber in the front and -1.5 in the rear. I will leave toe straight at first and adjust later if needed.
The final decision relates to the sway bars. According to the 2013 rules, I can change or replace one bar. If needed, I could drill another hole in my stock 26.7mm bar to make it a little stiffer. Otherwise, I have my eyes on a set of Progress Miata bars that seem to fall in the medium stiffness group of options for our cars. That set should provide me a lot of options in dialing in the car even if I can only use one of them at a time.
Other than a CG-Lock for the driver's side, that is all I am thinking for 2014 other than practice, practice, practice.
Any thoughts on my strategery? What are other folks doing for next year?
I'm in a very similar position myself right now with my R3 - mainly focused on the guy behind the wheel, but thinking about the not too distant future. Here are my thoughts, take them with a grain of salt as I've only done ~1 season in this car (not even a totally "full" season thanks to bad weather).
My car is 100% stock R3, except for the wheels and tires. Due to financial constraints, I'm stuck with this set of 26 pound 18x8's wrapped in Dunlop's ZII's until I can afford a set of RPF1's or the like. Tires are 225's - but if I could do it over again, I think I'd go for 245's. The stock class rule is +/- 1 inch from factory size, so does that mean in both width AND height, or just one or the other?
The Bilsteins on the R3 (been trying to figure out their actual model/ID name recently...) are nice, but there is definitely room for improvement. If you want costume valved shocks, you could talk to the guys over at FatCatMotorsports. They have a reputation on the miata forums for outstanding work.
My alignment this past season was -1.8 front/-1.5 rear camber and the toe straight. I'm pleased with it, but am gonna try and get the front up a little higher if I can for next season. But if I can't I'll stay here for now. However, I am running on the ZII's and not R comps.
Sway bars stiffness is what I've currently just starting to look into myself.
I'm planning to use a 4 point harness next season, fully utilize those recaro's I paid for!
Getting the seat belt to lock me snug in the seat takes me far too long, it's getting annoying. A harness should be much easier - just pull the straps down till I'm as snug as I like. I've wasted far more runs than I care to admit by forgetting to turn the traction control off because I was preoccupied with the seat (first car I've ever owned to have traction control).
Last edited by poacherinthezoo; 11-19-2013 at 07:44 PM.
11-20-2013, 07:43 AM
#92
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Howdy,
I think both you guys are on the right track.
"What tires?" is a question in everyone's mind I think. I ended up settling on Z2's last year over the Rivals, but that was more down to me being able to feel the tires better vs. anything repeatable on the clock.
YMMV on the CGLock, but I tried one and the only way it would work for me is if it was installed backwards, which looked and felt weird to me. Instead I replaced the seat belt lap bolts with eye bolts and used a clip in 3" harness lapbelt. I can't remember if I had to make a spacer to do this... I think so, but its been more than 24 hours so I've forgotten any details. :-)
As for shocks... I'm no particular expert. I really want to be able to adjust rear rebound easily, so I'm probably going to have Koni make me some custom 3011 style inverted shocks. But I expect that will be a little expensive and I seem to be the only one that cares a lot about being able to adjust rear rebound easily. Lots of folks have had success with regular Koni Sports.
I _think_ I've got the Progress Miata front bar on the car. Adjustment doesn't seem to do a whole lot, frankly. I think its because the front of the car is camber limited, so as the bar gets stiffer the loss of grip from increased stiffness gets made up by increased grip from holding the wheel flatter and the end result is "not much change" in terms of the balance of the car.
Mark
I think both you guys are on the right track.
"What tires?" is a question in everyone's mind I think. I ended up settling on Z2's last year over the Rivals, but that was more down to me being able to feel the tires better vs. anything repeatable on the clock.
YMMV on the CGLock, but I tried one and the only way it would work for me is if it was installed backwards, which looked and felt weird to me. Instead I replaced the seat belt lap bolts with eye bolts and used a clip in 3" harness lapbelt. I can't remember if I had to make a spacer to do this... I think so, but its been more than 24 hours so I've forgotten any details. :-)
As for shocks... I'm no particular expert. I really want to be able to adjust rear rebound easily, so I'm probably going to have Koni make me some custom 3011 style inverted shocks. But I expect that will be a little expensive and I seem to be the only one that cares a lot about being able to adjust rear rebound easily. Lots of folks have had success with regular Koni Sports.
I _think_ I've got the Progress Miata front bar on the car. Adjustment doesn't seem to do a whole lot, frankly. I think its because the front of the car is camber limited, so as the bar gets stiffer the loss of grip from increased stiffness gets made up by increased grip from holding the wheel flatter and the end result is "not much change" in terms of the balance of the car.
Mark
11-20-2013, 10:23 AM
#93
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Howdy,
Interestingly... Just got off the phone with Koni and we've abandoned this idea.
The issue is that with the stock spring perch setup (i.e. top spring mount referenced to the body), Koni expects the side load at the bottom spring mount as the suspension moves through its travel to be significant enough that the shock rod that the spring perch would be mounted to wouldn't be strong enough to handle it.
So... that sucks.
I would like to publicly congratulate Mazda engineers for enclosing the top of the shock mount in such a way that you can't get to it. You would think a company with the grassroots motorsport history of Mazda wouldn't have made such a dumbass decision.
Mark
The issue is that with the stock spring perch setup (i.e. top spring mount referenced to the body), Koni expects the side load at the bottom spring mount as the suspension moves through its travel to be significant enough that the shock rod that the spring perch would be mounted to wouldn't be strong enough to handle it.
So... that sucks.
I would like to publicly congratulate Mazda engineers for enclosing the top of the shock mount in such a way that you can't get to it. You would think a company with the grassroots motorsport history of Mazda wouldn't have made such a dumbass decision.
Mark
11-20-2013, 11:35 AM
#94
Koni Yellows have the added benefit of giving me 0.5" of legal lowering and single adjustability. My hesitations in going with Konis are that no vendors seem to agree on part numbers for S2 cars, and Koni's catalog is of little help. Also, friends who use them report the adjustments are not predictable nor repeatable.
Here are the part numbers from the Koni site. Verify your fitment or other questions by sending them an email directly. Then go find a better price from a distributor. I saved $100 doing that as Koni charges shipping - some others don't.
08-11 RX8 Sport Front 8241-1226, Rear 8240-1280, Sport Kit 1140-2232 Read the "i" icons. OEM Sport suspension won't lower car as much as non-sport.
Note: Only the rears have a different part number from the Series 1.
http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/S...odClar=Touring
Here is the tirerack page for 09 stating Adj Yellow Koni's cost $750 +SH and Bilstein HD's cost $450. You choose. Both are reputable. Only one is adj.
No substitute for seat time.
Last edited by twistedwankel; 11-20-2013 at 12:08 PM. Reason: Tirerack info
11-20-2013, 02:27 PM
#95
Water Foul
^ Interesting. Tire Rack is the only vendor (Good-Win and Racing Beat, for example) I have seen listing part numbers which match the Koni catalog. They also list the highest price. I'm sure I could clear the part number problem with a few phone calls, but I want to get closer to a Bilstein vs. Koni decision first.
Last edited by Steve Dallas; 11-20-2013 at 02:35 PM.
11-20-2013, 04:16 PM
#96
I'm in for C Street-R in 2014, and am in the process of making car setup decisions for my Series II. My focus thus far has been on fixing the nut behind the wheel, which still needs a lot of work, but I am at least at a point where improving the size and shape of my grip circle makes sense.
11-20-2013, 04:24 PM
#97
Water Foul
^ Yep. I already have the rims and tires covered. They are the same size as stock all the way around.
Have the new rules been published yet? I did not seem them on SCCA's site the last time I looked.
Have the new rules been published yet? I did not seem them on SCCA's site the last time I looked.
Last edited by Steve Dallas; 11-20-2013 at 07:11 PM.
11-20-2013, 05:25 PM
#98
Here is what Team had posted earlier:
SCCA Board of Directors Approves Street Category Proposal For Solo Program
TOPEKA, Kan. (October 11, 2013) – The Sports Car Club of America Board of Directors unanimously approved a proposal by the Solo® Events Board for Street Category cars in the Tire Rack National Solo program, beginning in 2014.
The Street Category will feature cars that are essentially off the showroom floor, with specified modifications. Tires in the class must be designed for highway use on passenger cars.
Tires in the Street Category must fit the following specifications:
1.Effective 1/1/14 – Minimum UTQG tread wear rating of 140
2.Effective 1/1/15 – Minimum UTQG tread wear rating of 200
3.Molded tread depth of 7/32” or greater as specified by the manufacturer
4.Listed in a current year of prior two years of the “Tire Guide” and/or “Tread Design Guide”
5.Department of Transportation (DOT) approved
The class will allow sway bars on the front or rear, and have a wheel diameter allowance of plus or minus one inch. Despite earlier proposals, there will be no camber allowances via camber plates, bolts or slotting.
“Participation in the current Stock Category is declining at a rapid rate, and data and feedback shows that the vast majority of the membership that would participate in this class would like to switch to ‘road tires,’” Lisa Noble, Chairman of the SCCA Board of Directors, said. “Classes with road tires have the largest participation numbers in regional competition, and since this potential rules change came to light, those who participate in the class have voted with their attendance. We anticipate that trend will continue as the Street category classes earn National Championship status in 2014.”
In addition to the new Street Category, for 2014, the current Stock Category will remain in place and be renamed the Street-R category. All 2013 Stock classes will become Street-R (SR) classes and follow the rules which were in place for Stock at the end of 2013. For 2015, the Street-R category will be reduced to a single class, Super Street R, for high horsepower machines.
“This has been a long process for the Solo community,” Howard Duncan, SCCA Vice President, Rally/Solo, said. “The SEB believes, and we agree, that this change does not alter the game, but will encourage more participants, as 72 percent of the letters the SEB received on the matter were in favor of the change. We’re looking forward to welcoming back members that we haven’t seen in several years, and introducing new members to the sport without requiring a major investment to the cars they already own.”
A more complete list of rules, along with the classifications of cars for the new Street Category, will be available in the October Fastrack® News.
More information on the Tire Rack SCCA Solo program is available at The Sports Car Club of America - Solo.
SCCA Board of Directors Approves Street Category Proposal For Solo Program
TOPEKA, Kan. (October 11, 2013) – The Sports Car Club of America Board of Directors unanimously approved a proposal by the Solo® Events Board for Street Category cars in the Tire Rack National Solo program, beginning in 2014.
The Street Category will feature cars that are essentially off the showroom floor, with specified modifications. Tires in the class must be designed for highway use on passenger cars.
Tires in the Street Category must fit the following specifications:
1.Effective 1/1/14 – Minimum UTQG tread wear rating of 140
2.Effective 1/1/15 – Minimum UTQG tread wear rating of 200
3.Molded tread depth of 7/32” or greater as specified by the manufacturer
4.Listed in a current year of prior two years of the “Tire Guide” and/or “Tread Design Guide”
5.Department of Transportation (DOT) approved
The class will allow sway bars on the front or rear, and have a wheel diameter allowance of plus or minus one inch. Despite earlier proposals, there will be no camber allowances via camber plates, bolts or slotting.
“Participation in the current Stock Category is declining at a rapid rate, and data and feedback shows that the vast majority of the membership that would participate in this class would like to switch to ‘road tires,’” Lisa Noble, Chairman of the SCCA Board of Directors, said. “Classes with road tires have the largest participation numbers in regional competition, and since this potential rules change came to light, those who participate in the class have voted with their attendance. We anticipate that trend will continue as the Street category classes earn National Championship status in 2014.”
In addition to the new Street Category, for 2014, the current Stock Category will remain in place and be renamed the Street-R category. All 2013 Stock classes will become Street-R (SR) classes and follow the rules which were in place for Stock at the end of 2013. For 2015, the Street-R category will be reduced to a single class, Super Street R, for high horsepower machines.
“This has been a long process for the Solo community,” Howard Duncan, SCCA Vice President, Rally/Solo, said. “The SEB believes, and we agree, that this change does not alter the game, but will encourage more participants, as 72 percent of the letters the SEB received on the matter were in favor of the change. We’re looking forward to welcoming back members that we haven’t seen in several years, and introducing new members to the sport without requiring a major investment to the cars they already own.”
A more complete list of rules, along with the classifications of cars for the new Street Category, will be available in the October Fastrack® News.
More information on the Tire Rack SCCA Solo program is available at The Sports Car Club of America - Solo.
11-20-2013, 07:09 PM
#99
^ Interesting. Tire Rack is the only vendor (Good-Win and Racing Beat, for example) I have seen listing part numbers which match the Koni catalog. They also list the highest price. I'm sure I could clear the part number problem with a few phone calls, but I want to get closer to a Bilstein vs. Koni decision first.
Actually I bought my Koni's from THmotorsports for the best price and free delivery. Shopped a dozen places once I had a part number and made up my mind which way I wanted to go.
Tirerack is just a good quick fitment place but more expensive than any number of vendors. The Koni's were the same price as OEM Tokico shocks from Mazdaspeed using the racer's discount. The only other choice from Mazdaspeed was a bilstein coilover set for $1500 but that's STX territory not legal for stock.
Mazdatrix and others have Tokico HD Mazdaspeeds backordered. No help. Tokico D-Specs have rear adjustments (extenders) if you feel the need they are the only game in town that I found? Lots of people like them.
Maybe you'll luck out and find a good used set from a wrecked car or someone who's changed classes?
Decisions, decisions. It's a tough call.
Personally I'm blown away how much superior the Koni's are to the stock sport Tokico's on my 2004.
11-20-2013, 08:59 PM
#100
Water Foul
Here is what Team had posted earlier:
SCCA Board of Directors Approves Street Category Proposal For Solo Program
TOPEKA, Kan. (October 11, 2013) – The Sports Car Club of America Board of Directors unanimously approved a proposal by the Solo® Events Board for Street Category cars in the Tire Rack National Solo program, beginning in 2014.
The Street Category will feature cars that are essentially off the showroom floor, with specified modifications. Tires in the class must be designed for highway use on passenger cars.
Tires in the Street Category must fit the following specifications:
1.Effective 1/1/14 – Minimum UTQG tread wear rating of 140
2.Effective 1/1/15 – Minimum UTQG tread wear rating of 200
3.Molded tread depth of 7/32” or greater as specified by the manufacturer
4.Listed in a current year of prior two years of the “Tire Guide” and/or “Tread Design Guide”
5.Department of Transportation (DOT) approved
The class will allow sway bars on the front or rear, and have a wheel diameter allowance of plus or minus one inch. Despite earlier proposals, there will be no camber allowances via camber plates, bolts or slotting.
“Participation in the current Stock Category is declining at a rapid rate, and data and feedback shows that the vast majority of the membership that would participate in this class would like to switch to ‘road tires,’” Lisa Noble, Chairman of the SCCA Board of Directors, said. “Classes with road tires have the largest participation numbers in regional competition, and since this potential rules change came to light, those who participate in the class have voted with their attendance. We anticipate that trend will continue as the Street category classes earn National Championship status in 2014.”
In addition to the new Street Category, for 2014, the current Stock Category will remain in place and be renamed the Street-R category. All 2013 Stock classes will become Street-R (SR) classes and follow the rules which were in place for Stock at the end of 2013. For 2015, the Street-R category will be reduced to a single class, Super Street R, for high horsepower machines.
“This has been a long process for the Solo community,” Howard Duncan, SCCA Vice President, Rally/Solo, said. “The SEB believes, and we agree, that this change does not alter the game, but will encourage more participants, as 72 percent of the letters the SEB received on the matter were in favor of the change. We’re looking forward to welcoming back members that we haven’t seen in several years, and introducing new members to the sport without requiring a major investment to the cars they already own.”
A more complete list of rules, along with the classifications of cars for the new Street Category, will be available in the October Fastrack® News.
More information on the Tire Rack SCCA Solo program is available at The Sports Car Club of America - Solo.
SCCA Board of Directors Approves Street Category Proposal For Solo Program
TOPEKA, Kan. (October 11, 2013) – The Sports Car Club of America Board of Directors unanimously approved a proposal by the Solo® Events Board for Street Category cars in the Tire Rack National Solo program, beginning in 2014.
The Street Category will feature cars that are essentially off the showroom floor, with specified modifications. Tires in the class must be designed for highway use on passenger cars.
Tires in the Street Category must fit the following specifications:
1.Effective 1/1/14 – Minimum UTQG tread wear rating of 140
2.Effective 1/1/15 – Minimum UTQG tread wear rating of 200
3.Molded tread depth of 7/32” or greater as specified by the manufacturer
4.Listed in a current year of prior two years of the “Tire Guide” and/or “Tread Design Guide”
5.Department of Transportation (DOT) approved
The class will allow sway bars on the front or rear, and have a wheel diameter allowance of plus or minus one inch. Despite earlier proposals, there will be no camber allowances via camber plates, bolts or slotting.
“Participation in the current Stock Category is declining at a rapid rate, and data and feedback shows that the vast majority of the membership that would participate in this class would like to switch to ‘road tires,’” Lisa Noble, Chairman of the SCCA Board of Directors, said. “Classes with road tires have the largest participation numbers in regional competition, and since this potential rules change came to light, those who participate in the class have voted with their attendance. We anticipate that trend will continue as the Street category classes earn National Championship status in 2014.”
In addition to the new Street Category, for 2014, the current Stock Category will remain in place and be renamed the Street-R category. All 2013 Stock classes will become Street-R (SR) classes and follow the rules which were in place for Stock at the end of 2013. For 2015, the Street-R category will be reduced to a single class, Super Street R, for high horsepower machines.
“This has been a long process for the Solo community,” Howard Duncan, SCCA Vice President, Rally/Solo, said. “The SEB believes, and we agree, that this change does not alter the game, but will encourage more participants, as 72 percent of the letters the SEB received on the matter were in favor of the change. We’re looking forward to welcoming back members that we haven’t seen in several years, and introducing new members to the sport without requiring a major investment to the cars they already own.”
A more complete list of rules, along with the classifications of cars for the new Street Category, will be available in the October Fastrack® News.
More information on the Tire Rack SCCA Solo program is available at The Sports Car Club of America - Solo.
Last edited by Steve Dallas; 11-21-2013 at 08:49 PM.
