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This is somewhat out of left field but just wanted to be sure.
I'm looking to get more competitive in the C Street class this year. I know I can do dampers, but are stiffer springs allowed in the street class? The jargon in the SCCA rules confused me.
This is somewhat out of left field but just wanted to be sure.
I'm looking to get more competitive in the C Street class this year. I know I can do dampers, but are stiffer springs allowed in the street class? The jargon in the SCCA rules confused me.
No.
OEM springs only
Basically, you can replace one sway bar (most replace the front), you can upgrade the dampers, you can replace the exhaust only from the cat back (catalytic converter must be OEM or equivalent if car is over 8 years old). Lightweight wheels are permitted but must maintain OEM width (8") and be within 7mm of the OEM offset, and buy tires made for autocross (Rival S or RE71R are good choices).
The rule of thumb for the SCCA rules is... if they don't specifically say it is permitted, that means it is illegal.
Basically, you can replace one sway bar (most replace the front), you can upgrade the dampers, you can replace the exhaust only from the cat back (catalytic converter must be OEM or equivalent if car is over 8 years old). Lightweight wheels are permitted but must maintain OEM width (8") and be within 7mm of the OEM offset, and buy tires made for autocross (Rival S or RE71R are good choices).
The rule of thumb for the SCCA rules is... if they don't specifically say it is permitted, that means it is illegal.
Again, apologies if I am being dumb
What about pads? The rules state "the make and material of brake linings may be changed"
When I hear linings, I think drums and shoes. Can I only change the material if I had drums? (I know I don't have brake drums on my car lol)
Again, apologies if I am being dumb
What about pads? The rules state "the make and material of brake linings may be changed"
When I hear linings, I think drums and shoes. Can I only change the material if I had drums? (I know I don't have brake drums on my car lol)
It's not one of their better written rules, but people pretty much universally read linings = pads, i.e. you can use whatever pads you want.
For reference to other dynos posted. These were my stockers from I first got the car with about13k miles on them.
Jeff, are they both in the same orientation wrt compression and rebound? the traces for compression and rebound look really close to each other which doesn't seem normal and if theyre both in the same orientation (by that I mean one of them isn't flipped over the x-axis) then that mean one of them actually produces more compression force than rebound force.
Based on my readings and word of mouth you generally want compression force about 30% of rebound, so this seems like it would defy that convention.
Jeff, are they both in the same orientation wrt compression and rebound? the traces for compression and rebound look really close to each other which doesn't seem normal and if theyre both in the same orientation (by that I mean one of them isn't flipped over the x-axis) then that mean one of them actually produces more compression force than rebound force.
Based on my readings and word of mouth you generally want compression force about 30% of rebound, so this seems like it would defy that convention.
What are you guys doing to get ready for the season?
We fabbed up a single exit exhaust. Saved 19 lbs over the oem system.
Purchased:
1 x 2' Mandrel Bent Stainless Steel 180° Bend, 2.5" (SIL001572)
Vibrant Muffler 1102
Car sounds great. Not significantly louder than OEM actually, and not droney at all. Has a nice little burble on lift too. I don't expect any sound problems with this setup since it's pretty quiet, but we will know for sure once we run at NER which has significantly more restrictive sound requirements than SCCA.
Started doing some late but needed prep for the upcoming season on the RX8.
Has anyone taken advantage of the allowance to add a clearance area to adjust rear rebound with the shocks in the car? I am curious if anyone has pictures if so.
Got my koni yellows in and ready to be installed. What does everyone run in terms of adjustments, specifically for the rear shocks. I've read as much as I can on this site and can't find a consensus. I'll be running stock springs (obviously, otherwise I wouldn't be in this thread). I've seen people say start in the middle and adjust from there and others say 25% stiffer than the softest setting.
I am having these installed by a shop (apartment life problems) and dont want to struggle adjusting the rears. The fronts I can play with til the cows come home.
Got my koni yellows in and ready to be installed. What does everyone run in terms of adjustments, specifically for the rear shocks. I've read as much as I can on this site and can't find a consensus. I'll be running stock springs (obviously, otherwise I wouldn't be in this thread). I've seen people say start in the middle and adjust from there and others say 25% stiffer than the softest setting.
I am having these installed by a shop (apartment life problems) and dont want to struggle adjusting the rears. The fronts I can play with til the cows come home.
Thanks!
When I was researching it seemed that most people recommended putting the rears at about 50%. I'm trying a little stiffer than that but don't have enough events yet to have an opinion on it. It probably also matters if you are running a front bar or not, along with alignment settings. 50% is probably a relatively safe option.
When I was researching it seemed that most people recommended putting the rears at about 50%. I'm trying a little stiffer than that but don't have enough events yet to have an opinion on it. It probably also matters if you are running a front bar or not, along with alignment settings. 50% is probably a relatively safe option.
Do you mind telling me what you are running? I'm bar-less at the moment (planning on getting one this season tho) and I will be getting the car aligned. From what I've read, I should try for max camber up front, about a negative degree in the back but no more than what I can get the fronts to do.
Do you mind telling me what you are running? I'm bar-less at the moment (planning on getting one this season tho) and I will be getting the car aligned. From what I've read, I should try for max camber up front, about a negative degree in the back but no more than what I can get the fronts to do.
Well my only disclaimer is that I only have one event in the car so far. It felt pretty good but I do plan to make a few small tweaks.
My Konis are currently set at full stiff (backed off a touch) all around. Max front camber (-1.5), -1.9 rear camber (most people would recommend -1 to -1.3), 1/8 toe out in the front and 1/16 toe in in the rear. I also have a Mazdaspeed front sway (QSEA-34-151 - 27mm diameter with wall thickness of 4mm). I would like to get more front camber but I think my subframe is shifted, so I will have to look into fixing that (I can get -2.2 on one front side but only -1.5 on the other).
The front worked fairly well but I might play with adding a little more toe. The rear was not loose other than when the tires were very cold.
Do you mind telling me what you are running? I'm bar-less at the moment (planning on getting one this season tho) and I will be getting the car aligned. From what I've read, I should try for max camber up front, about a negative degree in the back but no more than what I can get the fronts to do.
Just a little update on our CS RX8. We did a fresh engine rebuild with all OEM parts, and careful tolerances, and gained almost 25whp and 10wtq across the board. This is a Mustang dyno that is known for being a heart breaker.
Here's the dyno with the before and after lines:
We also put the car on the scales at the last Wilmington Pro. No driver, 1/4 tank of fuel.
What tires are people running this year? I have seen talk a few pages back if the re71r but wondering if there's anything perhaps cheaper that comes close?
Okay, here's another one.. What tire SIZE is the preference around here? Am considering going to a 17x8 w/ 235/45R17 because the tires are cheaper and I will pick up a bit of gearing.. Thoughts?
According to TireRack, the Kumho V720 is pretty close but it wasn't out in time for the big test that everybody treats as gospel. Also, I seem to remember seeing several posts showing the V720 failing (mostly on the fronts of front-heavy FWD cars) but don't quote me on that.
Owing to my general lack of competitiveness and desire for some vague semblance of comfort, I'm installing 245/45-17 Bridgestones on 17x8 wheels today (replacing some truly ancient RS3V2 in 255/40-17).
Cool, thanks. Good info. I Found a set of RE11a on OZ 18lb wheels for sale locally, but they are 225/40R18. But a good enough deal to seriously consider. Will have to see...
Bridgestone RE71R and Rival S are the two most competitive choices. The Kumhos have had *some* issues and also operate best in only cooler temps, from what I've heard.
245/40/17 is the popular size for the best combo of gearing and width, but 235 and 255 also are great options.
Well, if you're not afraid of a little delamination, then Kuhmo V720s all the way...
It was 93 F and I was not nice to the tires, but the run intervals were pretty long and I did spray them every two runs. This wear only happened on one side, front and back, strangely enough. Tire pressures were 37 front and 35 ish rear.
Despite the wear the tires are very predictable and have good grip, but I think they might be easy to overdrive and potentially damage long-term.
Ugh, finding a used set is freaking impossible around here. Looking at 235 and 245 width, multiple brands, so far the best I have found is 225/40/18 re11 on 18lb OZ rims but that's not exactly my first choice. Found a few other candidates but the offset is more than 7mm different from stock and therefore not allowed in CS. Where's a good place to look for used stuff? I even checked the used race tires sites I could find but the selection there is pretty limited too.
01-26-2016, 09:30 PM
