RNS11Z

I have a rx8 track car in the build.

It has a bigger aluminum radiator (I don't know the brand) how ever it heats up real quick. After several laps we hit 115c (Celsius).

We are about to remove the aircon and condenser, fit a bigger oil cooler. We hope this will help but I feel it won't be enough.

What have you done to keep track temps down?

Slidin8

You may have a broken coolant seal

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

Venting the hood helps out, I installed some rivet on louvers and noticed a drop in temperatures. Removing the stock air box and tray and going to something like an AEM intake and relocating the battery to inside the car help out a lot especially when paired with hood vents. Removing the A/C condenser also helps out a ton. Making sure that the radiator is sealed up to the front opening so no air can go around it is also important. Also if it's unknown brand of radiator you might want to replace it with something that is proven on the race track like this: Radiator - 2004 RX-8 Competition - 8501 - AWR Racing Store

RNS11Z

Thanks fellas. Battery will be getting relocated too, and stock Airbox currently removed. I want to buy those vents, where can I get them from?

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

Here's where I got mine.

Jeep Hood Louver cooling air vents

I've also got another set of the long ones that I'm going to put on the tops of the front fenders to get rid of any high pressure zones in the wheel wells.

Another thing that helped as well was actually the front splitter. Since it creates a high pressure zone right above it, it results in forcing more air through the radiator.

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

I'd bet that is his main issue .

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

The #8501 AWR part is the standard Ron Davis radiator that everyone sells. You want to call up Ron Davis and ask for the "Mother's Special" RX8 dual-pass radiator. It is not an OE replacement and requires fitment, but it works.

docgatorx8er

iTrader: (10)

Just a note on this. Be very aware of what your goals are. Aero mods will change your classification in nearly any competitive organization. Even if you don't think you're going to time trial or compete now, you may in the future. I'm not debating the mod, I'm just saying you might want to consider your goals, so you don't have to remove it later.

Slidin8

I still think it's a coolant seal or water jacket since you have a bridgeport with some porting done to your exhaust ports.

skc

We had a bridge port car at the nationals at the nationals a couple of years ago that also overheated.

I have tracked my car in stock form for many years without overheating. after installing my supercharger I have seen temps at around 110 c at that is after several laps of red lining.

rickeo

iTrader: (1)

Are the thermostat and pump working correctly? OEM pump?

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

When I called Ron Davis they informed me that the 8501 AWR radiator is the dual pass version and that they would not build it for me and had to be purchased through AWR. The single pass version is the one that Mazmart sells. The rep also informed me very rudely that for my low horsepower application I would most certainly not require a dual pass radiator for any reason whatsoever. I won't deal with them directly again, because whoever they have answering the phone is an ******* and probably won't sell me what I want anyways.

Last time I checked hood vents were not an aero mod per the NASA rules? I never took points for them and nobody said anything either. If you're thinking of the Vortex Generators for +1 they have a stipulation attached to them that they only count if they are on the roof, rear window, or rear deck lid.

docgatorx8er

iTrader: (10)

C4) Modification of the BTM air intake/box, air filter location, air piping to the turbo/
supercharger/intercooler/throttle body/carburetor, or hood/fascia/fender air inlet(s),outlets, or vents +1 (air filter upgrade alone—0 pts.)

Because it's under engine, it would be no points if you are dyno reclassed.

Verification of my interpretation at: nasaforums.com • View topic - Hood venting

I was actually asked to remove my fender vent strakes, which was ridiculous.

I am not versed well enough in the SCCA IT rules to comment on their rules. Perhaps SBlethen can comment.

MagnusRacing

iTrader: (2)

Strange... I've bought two dual pass radiators from Ron Davis direct in the past couple years and they've always been very helpful. I wonder who you got on the phone!

In any case... the dual pass radiator works wonders for cooling

sblethen

iTrader: (3)

Not legal in SCCA ITR. Stock body panels only as they came from us domestic Mazda.
If you wanted to get beaten but get track time then I think they are legal in ST....

Stephen

PS I am running a Ron Davis dual pass radiator, removed intake, removed ac condenser, added silicone hoses and have 180 temps all day long...

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

Ah. Would have never though to look under engine modifications for something that enhances aerodynamics and cooling... I'm on a dyno reclass anyways so oh well. I'll be adding another set of the longer louvers to the tops of my fenders soon as well lol.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

at the speeds that you see on track a under panel spoiler will help evacuate engine bay air creating a lower pressure in the engine bay. This will help with airflow through the radiator. Remember air only flows through the radiator because of the pressure difference between the sides
I just used a 1 inch pvc pipe split in half--mounted it right behind the undertray. This alone will not replace the need for a better radiator, but little things help. Secondary radiators work--but they do add a little weight and make it a more complex system.
Make sure your bottom radiator hose is good and stiff too.

ShellDude

iTrader: (12)

OD do you have a post/picture illustrating what you did with the pipe?

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Space the rear of the engine undertray down on an S2 or equivalent mods on an S1 to venturi air out

etzilon

Huh? This sounds like my kind of mod. Pics?

I seem to run around 185-190F at the track. I still have the OEM radiator AND the A/C evaporator (yeah... I know.. It's on my list). What I did which made a huge difference was:
1.- Seal the sides of the radiator (recommended on this forum)
2.- Build an aluminum tray, bolted to the front of the undertray and to the radiator's lower mount points. This tray prevents air from going UNDER the radiator (pics attached)

I've done other things around cooling but these two helped a lot.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

Not sure why it's difficult to understand. Think of the hood venting equivalent underneath the engine. That said, it is likely an aero mod under most rule sets.

etzilon

Too much beer?

etzilon

I want the air to come in, go through the radiator and then exit through the massive gaps between engine and subframe. I don't want any air to go underneath the radiator, which will surely happens if the undertray bows downwards due to air pressure. The aluminum tray I built prevents that from happening.

So, not sure what opening up the rear end of the undertray will do. Not saying it wouldn't work, just trying to rationalize it.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

You want incoming air forced through the radiator, but then you want to get the radiator discharge out after. So what you do forward of the radiator is different than what you do aft of it. As an example, consider a airflow across a louver with a rearward facing opening. The airflow over the louver draws airflow from the louver opening if a pressure differential exists i.e. the high velocity low pressure air stream that passes underneath the chassis. There has to be a balance against excessive lift and drag though ...

http://www.suzukaracing.com/GTR%20pa...etoroadgtr.pdf


.

etzilon

So, you're saying I fixed only half of the problem? ;-)

Good point, Team. Air is a funny thing and I don't know enough about it.