Alignment settings for street/track use
12-16-2012, 04:59 PM
#451
The front camber at -2.0 should be fine. Set the caster as high as possible with out loosing camber. +5.5 to +5.75 are with in factory recommendations.
Rear camber at the same -2.0 to -2.3ish should be fine with +.17 to +.20 rear toe.
Going into a turn hot (entry) should allow some understeer to let you know that you are entering to fast. Around the apex and exit it should feel like it wants to rotate but unless you are pushing the throttle too hard you should be fine.
Rear camber at the same -2.0 to -2.3ish should be fine with +.17 to +.20 rear toe.
Going into a turn hot (entry) should allow some understeer to let you know that you are entering to fast. Around the apex and exit it should feel like it wants to rotate but unless you are pushing the throttle too hard you should be fine.
Front:
Camber: (-2) - (-2.3)
Caster: (+5.5) - (+5.75) caster as much as possible without losing camber
Toe: 0.0
Rear:
Camber: same as front (-2) - (-2.3)
Toe: (+.17) - (+.20)
I would only buy a set, after the alignment ill have to see if i want to go with a swaybar that will give me a slight increase in stiffness or a huge increase in stiffness mazdaspeed vs progress/AP
04-17-2013, 05:47 PM
#452
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After much research I've come up with the following as what I'm going to shoot for when I take the car for an alignment. This will be my starting point to work off of later on, but I'm shooting for a more neutral set up with a slight tendency for understeer at the limit (just enough so its safe on the street). The car is an 2009 R3 (slightly stiffer monotube bilsteins & foam filled cross member are the only two changes I can think of suspension wise between my car and other RX8 years/models) and I'm running Star Spec II's for tires (225's on 8 inch wide wheels).
Front:
Camber: -1 on each side
Toe: 0
Caster: max possible that allows for -1 front camber (minimum I'll go is 5, if I have to go less than that I'll start decreasing front camber)
Rear:
Camber:-1.5 per side (or ~0.5 more than what I can get for the fronts)
Toe: +0.1 (total)
This car is my daily driver that will only see autocross events - no track time (which seems to be uncommon around here, you RX8 guys love to track your cars; I'll join you one day but not till I can afford to write the car off and buy another if I had to).
Thoughts and opinions on this set up? Will it be safe for street use (not too loose, nor shred my tires)? To my untrained eye it looks like a tire-friendly alignment since I'm not running much toe, but I'm not sure if I want a little more or less toe for the rears - just want enough for acceptable levels of straight line stability on the street.
I apologize for asking a question that's been covered before, I tried my best to do my homework and I'm just looking for some input before I actually go out and spend money and TIME on this.
Thanks in advance!
Front:
Camber: -1 on each side
Toe: 0
Caster: max possible that allows for -1 front camber (minimum I'll go is 5, if I have to go less than that I'll start decreasing front camber)
Rear:
Camber:-1.5 per side (or ~0.5 more than what I can get for the fronts)
Toe: +0.1 (total)
This car is my daily driver that will only see autocross events - no track time (which seems to be uncommon around here, you RX8 guys love to track your cars; I'll join you one day but not till I can afford to write the car off and buy another if I had to).
Thoughts and opinions on this set up? Will it be safe for street use (not too loose, nor shred my tires)? To my untrained eye it looks like a tire-friendly alignment since I'm not running much toe, but I'm not sure if I want a little more or less toe for the rears - just want enough for acceptable levels of straight line stability on the street.
I apologize for asking a question that's been covered before, I tried my best to do my homework and I'm just looking for some input before I actually go out and spend money and TIME on this.
Thanks in advance!
04-17-2013, 08:50 PM
#454
The least amount of camber I was able to get in the rear was about -1.3 degrees. After dropping it on progress tech springs it was -1.5 degrees.
I would suggest getting minimum camber in the rear, and then matching the fronts. Your suggested toe measurements look good IMO.
I would suggest getting minimum camber in the rear, and then matching the fronts. Your suggested toe measurements look good IMO.
04-17-2013, 09:34 PM
#455
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04-22-2013, 04:00 PM
#459
The key to high front camber settings on the front with a stock suspension is to put the front up on jack stands, loosen all of the front control arm mounting bolts, unhook the front sway bar, use a jack to heavily pre-load the suspension as much as possible, then super tighten the control arm bolts back up. Do each side one at a time, then hook the front bar back after both sides are done.
You can do the opposite in the rear to get less camber. The amount of preload you do or don't use allows you to fine tuneit as may be necessary within the extreme limits that can be obtained, in addition to setting chassis rake.
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You can do the opposite in the rear to get less camber. The amount of preload you do or don't use allows you to fine tuneit as may be necessary within the extreme limits that can be obtained, in addition to setting chassis rake.
.
hrmm ... interesting.
So I had no trouble at the shop today getting the front camber (minus a seized up cam bolt that we eventually got free).
The rear though was a pain in the *** and for some reason i had a whole degree of angle missing on one side. The closest we could get the rear to neutral was -1.5 on one side and -2.3 on the other side.
No visible damage to the control arms.
08-09-2013, 12:57 PM
#460
hrmm ... interesting.
So I had no trouble at the shop today getting the front camber (minus a seized up cam bolt that we eventually got free).
The rear though was a pain in the *** and for some reason i had a whole degree of angle missing on one side. The closest we could get the rear to neutral was -1.5 on one side and -2.3 on the other side.
No visible damage to the control arms.
So I had no trouble at the shop today getting the front camber (minus a seized up cam bolt that we eventually got free).
The rear though was a pain in the *** and for some reason i had a whole degree of angle missing on one side. The closest we could get the rear to neutral was -1.5 on one side and -2.3 on the other side.
No visible damage to the control arms.
At the front, I can't quite get enough negative camber to have even tire temps on track at a 14 inch hub to fender ride height (stock was ~15 inches). I have caster set to the minimum possible, so might go a little lower for my next track day.
11-15-2013, 11:23 AM
#461
Quick update on my car in that a 13.5 inch ride height gave me enough front camber per my rough tire temp readings. It also shifted the balance rearward a little. I have not been back to an alignment shop, but I would guess I am at around -2.6 front now (minimum caster and maximum camber that the factory adjustments will allow up front). This left the rear with slightly too much camber, so I am thinking about -2.6 front and -2.4 rear with a 13.5in ride height should be about perfect on 255 width Direzza Z2 tires. Only problem is that 13.5 inches is just a touch low on the street for me, so I've set it to 13.75 for now. Will see how that does on track in a couple of weeks.
One thing I don't like about this setup is that there is less centering force, and therefore less feel in the steering around center due to the low caster setting.
One thing I don't like about this setup is that there is less centering force, and therefore less feel in the steering around center due to the low caster setting.
12-15-2013, 10:42 PM
#463
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Quick update on my car in that a 13.5 inch ride height gave me enough front camber per my rough tire temp readings. It also shifted the balance rearward a little. I have not been back to an alignment shop, but I would guess I am at around -2.6 front now (minimum caster and maximum camber that the factory adjustments will allow up front). This left the rear with slightly too much camber, so I am thinking about -2.6 front and -2.4 rear with a 13.5in ride height should be about perfect on 255 width Direzza Z2 tires. Only problem is that 13.5 inches is just a touch low on the street for me, so I've set it to 13.75 for now. Will see how that does on track in a couple of weeks.
One thing I don't like about this setup is that there is less centering force, and therefore less feel in the steering around center due to the low caster setting.
One thing I don't like about this setup is that there is less centering force, and therefore less feel in the steering around center due to the low caster setting.
12-16-2013, 06:28 PM
#464
I've been setting it level, so 13.5 front and rear (or as close as possible) and now 13.75 front and rear. Based on my last outing, a ride height 13.75 gave me slight understeer compared to 13.5, so I'm thinking I need to go a little lower again for more front camber. It was a different track and cooler temps though so not exactly a scientific comparison and I was only able to get very rough tire temp readings this time.
I should say, both 13.5 and 13.75 worked very well for me. The car was stable and predictable with my suspension setup, this is just fine tuning.
I should say, both 13.5 and 13.75 worked very well for me. The car was stable and predictable with my suspension setup, this is just fine tuning.
04-01-2015, 09:27 AM
#468
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The book did not write the alignment.. https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-in...ls-pdf-245469/
Last edited by schumi44; 04-01-2015 at 09:56 AM.
04-03-2015, 01:59 PM
#469
The book did not write the alignment.. https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-in...ls-pdf-245469/
RotaryHeads.com - Mazda RX-8 PDF Technical Manuals FE3S
Reminds me I should post my track street alignment. I am very happy with it now, a little lower than in the past and added a bit of caster back in for better feel but without much impact on front camber.
07-10-2015, 01:46 PM
#472
Here is what I have been running for the past year now. Very happy with this setup; balance, tire temp differences and tire wear all seem good. Using Direzza z2 255/40/17 with fatcat coilovers.
Measurements taken with me in the car.
Front L/R
Camber: -2.8/-2.8
Caster: 6.4/6.3 (was as close as it would go)
Toe: -0.01, 0.00 (as above)
Ride height: 13.3in/13.3in
Rear L/R
Camber: -2.5/-2.5
Toe: 0.04, 0.04
Ride height: 13.3in/13.3in
Measurements taken with me in the car.
Front L/R
Camber: -2.8/-2.8
Caster: 6.4/6.3 (was as close as it would go)
Toe: -0.01, 0.00 (as above)
Ride height: 13.3in/13.3in
Rear L/R
Camber: -2.5/-2.5
Toe: 0.04, 0.04
Ride height: 13.3in/13.3in
12-04-2015, 12:15 PM
#473
Most I could get was -1.8 on the front..
F- 1.8, 1.8
Caster 5.2, 5.2
R- 1.6, 1.6
Zero toe
Running at Roebling tomorrow, so we'll see how it shakes out...Car feels good..Thanks to Trinity Motorsports in Pooler for getting me Set Up..
F- 1.8, 1.8
Caster 5.2, 5.2
R- 1.6, 1.6
Zero toe
Running at Roebling tomorrow, so we'll see how it shakes out...Car feels good..Thanks to Trinity Motorsports in Pooler for getting me Set Up..
07-04-2016, 03:50 PM
#474
Offset LCA front bush
Hey all
Sorry if this is the wrong place to post but I am try to track down some offset front lower control arm bushes like the drop engineering ones with the spherical internally.
I have enquired on numerous websites that purport to sell them but with no response.
Does anyone have any stock? or am I in the lucky position of having to make them?
I should add I'm in AUS
James
Sorry if this is the wrong place to post but I am try to track down some offset front lower control arm bushes like the drop engineering ones with the spherical internally.
I have enquired on numerous websites that purport to sell them but with no response.
Does anyone have any stock? or am I in the lucky position of having to make them?
I should add I'm in AUS
James
07-05-2016, 02:05 AM
#475
Is your goal increased camber? If so, consider the offset upper control arm bushings from Whiteline, which I believe is an Australian company. They serve the same purpose- increasing max negative camber- and are readily available and relatively inexpensive.
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=KCA421
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=KCA421