rspeks

Hey guys,

Im a brand new RX8 owner. Stumbled upon this forum BEFORE i bought the car and as much as the "newbie" thread screams "DONT BUY IT!" haha I bought it, simply for the love I have of the RX series.

It's a very interesting car to own, and a lot of these threads have helped tremendously in insuring proper care for my new car.

One thing I am unable to find is proper steps in storing the car for the winter. I live in Montreal, Canada. As some of you know we have pretty brutal winters. Having said that, I've done some basic reseach in proper storage techniques but I still have a couple of questions if anyone's available to help.

Ok, I know I have to change ALL the general fluids, oil, brake, etc... I know I have to fill the gas tank and add fuel stabalizer. Steel wool in the exhaust, and clean the inside and out (including wax).

Over fill the tires, leave the car in neutral and hand brake off. Put some kind of chalk and cover it.

My main question is. Am I able to leave it stored in my driveway, covered up under a tempo ? I do not have a garage and my car port isn't built yet.

I know storing it indoors is probably a LOT better for the car, but my question is... Will there be any NEGATIVE effects on my car by storing it the way I have planned.

Thanks to anyone who read this and responded.

Much appreciated,

-RSPEKS

EDZRIDE

iTrader: (1)

What do you plan to do about the battery? It should be put on a "Battery Tender" or removed from the car and stored inside. Is it possible to rent a storage area just for the winter?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

At the new owner's thread comment. It's a message, same as any other. How someone perceives it is pretty much the right way of perceiving it for them. Glad you have you here.


I've done some digging on outside storage, and it's a debate on if a car cover is a good idea or not. Many people say that it's worse for your paint to store outside with the car cover on then it is just leaving it naked. The argument from that side of the coin is that either the car cover can't breath and it traps moisture or it doesn't actually protect the car from anything because the moisture still just gets through anyway.

I think the only direct issue from having it uncovered in the winter is the danger of paint damage from letting snow sit on it for long periods of time.



I would also recommend against filling the gas tank up. Might be more than one opinion on this so don't just leap to my recommendation. My reasoning is that IF your gas goes bad anyway, you don't want to have to drive a few hundred miles on bad gas until you can put in good gas. Having it near empty does let lots of fumes build in the tank though. But you can add a can or two of fresh gas for starting, then take it to a gas station right away for a full tank of fresh gas to help clear away or dilute any of the bad gas quickly.

djfa

iTrader: (3)

+1 on RIWWP's comment. I am also from montreal, I know how bad our winters get especially with the extreme salty roads. I for one drive my 8 in winter, Ive never had any problems and its not that bad of a winter car to be honest. I do get stuck in snow banks parking downtown but who doesnt.

If I were you I would buy a tempo, keep the car in the driveway but dont cover it. Keep your tank empty. If you want you can get a block heater installed and keep it plugged. (Not sure those even work on the rx8 but ive read some people had some installed).

My car sleeps in a heated garage but with the winters we have its terrible for the body to have it cold and wet, then hot and humid. It started to rust slightly but its under control. If you ever need any help with your 8, let me know. I have a garage and some tools I could offer help to do simple jobs like oil changes, coils, plugs, wires instead of you going to the stealership... I can do it for free!

Corso

Man, I can't believe we need to start discussing this.

Regarding having to "change ALL the general fluids", I really think changing brake fluid is totally unnecessary. I would definitely store it with fresh oil, but that is really the only fluid that really needs to be changed.

As far as covers go; the only way no cover would be better than covered is if the car is parked in a location where it will be significanly battered by wind. A cover buffeting on the surface for 6mos could be a concern. Being concerned with the paint surface being able to breath is a non-issue with any quality (Noah, Evolution, etc), outdoor-spec cover. They are designed for this. Clean and wax the car, park it and cover it. Brush the snow off after any significant accumulation and you'll be good to go. And even that probably isn't necessary, but it takes no time so you might as well. i don't know what a 'tempo' is, but if it is a temporary enclosure, then that's even more peace of mind.

The fuel debate is a long one. I've owned boats for years and this is always a topic of discussion when it comes time to winterize. And they have huge fuel cells, my last boatbwas 140 gal. The concern when leaving them empty isn't really over fumes building up, it is the fear of allowing space for condensation to form. A full tank will prevent this. Honestly, I think either way is fine since half of people seem to think empty is best, and half feel they should be stored full. What I do for cars that I've stored for winters is; just before I am ready to park it, stop at a gas station, add the proper amount of stabilizer for the tank capacity, fill up with as much gas as it will take, and drive home. This allows the stabilizer to mix with the gas, and more importantly allows it to get into the fuel system to protect it from the evil ethenol.

Battery tender is a must. Just run an extension cord and plug it in. Only other things I will add that weren't already mentioned is, put a Damp-Rid container on the floor in the cabin and one in the trunk, and scatter a few boxes of moth ***** under and around the car to keep the critters away.

rspeks

I forgot to mention the battery part. Sorry.

What I read was possible with the battery is what you guys have stated. A battery tender, another thing was to actually remove the battery and keep it inside on a piece of wood or something.

Thank you ALL for the help

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Hi, I hope I'm not overstepping any boundaries here, but I was reading old posts on storage and could use some advice. I unintentionally stored my 8 under a deck with a car cover on it when I was sandbagged with health issues 3 months ago. It's been sitting how I left it, full tank, battery hooked up. We have had several snowstorms and at one point it was nearly buried in snowdrifts. I finally am up to installing my midpipe. Is there anything I should do, or do I just hop in and see what happens? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

OK. No interest. So I will take cover off, pop hood, and hook up charger to start. If it starts, I will let it warm up, then try to back it up onto ramps and try to jack up front to get 4 jackstands under it. If that works I will spray all fasteners and bungs with PB Blaster and let it soak for a while. Mr. Hill advised me to clean ESS sensor and do 20 brake stomp. I am debating whether to do that before I try to start it. I would really like to get pipe on ASAP. Snow is forecast for Monday. Can ESS wait, or is it more important to clean that first? I'm not sure how much I can do before I run out of steam. I will post progress if anyone is interested.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

You almost certainly have a weak battery, so get that charged up. Other than that though, hop in and see if it starts. It should if it has a full battery.

Cleaning the ESS doesn't take much more than a quick wipe with a rag, getting to it is usually the more difficult part, and not much at that.


If the cat bolts are original, I'd recommend buying a 2nd set of nuts and bolts and driving to a corner shop and having them just replace the bolts for you, then driving back home with the fresh bolts that are a cinch to remove. It's a cake walk on a lift with a blowtorch, doing it on jack stands when the OEM bolts are rusted in place is not easily accomplished. YMMV.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Hi, thanks for responding. I have the OEM gaskets & hardware that came with the BHR pipe (which I have been gazing longingly at for 3 mos.) I did all new ignition parts before I parked it and still had a misfire. I was going to avoid driving it in the hopes that I have not done any damage to the engine. So I will try myself first and if I can't do it then I'll take it to a shop. Thanks again.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Note that I was just referring to having a shop remove the bolts and replacing them with new ones that you supply, cat still installed. If you are in the US no shop will install your midpipe for you as it can cost them HUGE money in fines. They just replace the bolts to solve the problem of rusted/seized bolts, then you take it home and do the swap yourself without having to fight with the bolts. It makes removing the cat significantly easier that first time.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Yes, I understood that. Trying not to drive it. Thanks again.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Hello, I got my cat off.(oh, that sounds wrong). Amazing lack of rust for an 04 in Kansas City. Had to be garaged summer driver. Anyway, cat is toast. Front half mostly gone except for 1 large egg shaped piece. Lots of residue clogging back half. Does anyone have any thoughts whether it matters if
the sensor is dirty or even if it's good since there will be no cat now? I know I should have found out already but it just occurred to me and I want to go get pipe on before I tire out. Almost too old for this stuff. Don't know of this is the right place for this, but I started here this morning. Thanks for any input.