kcott

wow...talk about good timing, same issue (automatic car as well)

went straight to this forum to try and figure it out and see others are having the same issues also

BG-8

In my opinion, you have a bad O2 Sensor (as you already know that by the code). You are not getting the right air/fuel mixture, as the sensor sends signal to the PCM, and the PCM adjusts the air/fuel mixture as needed. As you already know, your engine is getting less fuel "lean", and it dies at idle.

I would suggest changing the O2 Sensor, but they are not cheap. However, if you decide on changing it, make sure you change the right one.

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so if I'm getting a bank 1 error, that would be the front o2 sensor? How much do these run? Do I have to get it at the dealer? I could probably get it covered under a third party warranty I got with the car now that i think about it...

BG-8

The Oxygen Sensor will run you $220+ shipping... if you have third party warranty, you should give them a call and asked them if they would cover it.

Yes, the front "upstream" one, mounted on the exhaust manifold.


Here is a better explanation of what the Oxygen sensors do----------->>> http://www.samarins.com/glossary/oxygen_sensor.html

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

Thanks that helps, I do get acceleration issues right before the rpms act up and the stalling occurs. Now, when they say upstream "before" the exhaust, that means it is the sensor before the catalyst, between the engine and the catalyst? Or between the cat and the rear end of the car? My exhaust was modified by the first owner, but the cat is stock. So if the sensor is between the engine bay and the cat, I have all stock parts and the actual exhaust shouldn't be affecting that bank 1 sensor, correct?

BG-8

First of all, you don't want to pay extra money on parts that are fine. So, take it to Mazda and tell them about the CEL and see what they will say. Let the pro do their thing

In my opinion, it's your sensor... but I could be wrong.

The "upstream" "front" Oxygen sensor is the closest one to the engine. If you look underneath the car the sensor will be pointing up towards the sky, and the wires connect right next to the oil filter.

The "downstream" sensor is pointing towards the drivers side door and the wires connect by the transmission.

BG-8

This might not help in your case, but cleaning the Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor usually helps rough idle (and it's free). As they do get pretty dirty (attached picture).

valpac

iTrader: (2)

[quote=adamci24;3578484]...when the rpms go from a smooth 900 to a rough 600 down to a really rough 400, then boom. Nothing. Then I have to let it cool for at least 20 min before it will start again...
quote]


Exactly how my car behaved with the ungrounded MAF Sensor. Refresh me, did you replace the MAF or just clean it?

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=valpac;3591133]What do you mean by ungrounded MAF sensor? I havnt replaced it..I just cleaned it with MAF cleaner..did your car do that only when it got hot?

Mazurfer

Adam....check with Mazmart as well if going to get an O2 sensor.
Here's the thread on that, but don't believe the price in the first post, it may have come down, so just add a post at the end and Sheldon or someone will PM you with the update price. https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ight=O2+sensor

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

Well, just drove the car at 8pm and the CEL automatically turned off. I was going to take it to the dealer in a day or 2, but now there isn't the P2096 CEL anymore...hmmm. Car drove fine for 20 min at 8pm. Problems still continue during the hot afternoon hours however. I did put some fuel line cleaner in the tank when I filled up this morning...

In the next day or so I will:
-Replace fuel pump
-Clean ESP sensor

I will go from there if the RPM and stalling issue continues and move on to the o2 if my 2096 CEL comes back.

For those that said they have the same problems as me, keep us updated, so we can get a pretty clear answer on a fix for this to everyone out there with an RX8 that are experiencing the same issues.

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

Thank you for the link!

Mazurfer

Still reading this thread over again from the beginning to come back up to speed on what you've done since I haven't been in it in a few days. I have to go all the way back to the beginning. I'm not saying it the O2 sensor, but that code is probably going to return.


No to get off on a tangent.............
Problem is.......I think...........if it doesn't see it in two or three consectutive drive cycles, then the light goes off, but I think the code would still be stored. So...a couple of short trips when cool out or not hot could turn it off.

I believe it also takes sequential two drive cycles with a code before it lights it up.


Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

Yes, I read somewhere it's 2 drive cycles, and it will most likely come back on.

I have:
Changed plugs, coils, wires
Cleaned MAF
Removed AEM for stock intake
Used fuel cleaner
Used Seafoam (tons-o-smoke! lol)
Compression test (passed)

I have this new fuel pump sitting here, so I will at least put that in along with waiting for the CEL to come back to take it to the dealer if they will cover my o2 sensor under my 3rd party warranty.

BG-8

If you are going to clean the ESP, make sure to reset the e-shaft sensor after you are done (20 brake pedal pumps).

Also if the CEL goes out, that means the problem doesn't occur all the time. As it take few drives to reset, if there is no problem.

rxtreme89

Im starting to have a similar issue but mine occurs thru anytime in the day, if it is 5am or 4pm. My car hesitates to start but starts up in one crank. It has trouble going at low rpm and almost hesitates until after 3500 and then it runs fine. It idle at 700 and today it dropped down to 500 after I would get to a stop and the engine would then force it to 900 and stay there. When at idle I turned on a/c it shut down on me. I shift at 4k normal driving and 5k on highways and redline it almost every other day. It is a 6sp with 80k and an 05. I have a test pipe and throttle body bypass and get the p2096 cel. I bought the car at 65k and I changed my plugs yesterday and they looked like they were never changed at 60k so I hope the coils is the only thing that is wrong I just bought maf cleaner and going to put new optima battery in with cleaning the terminals and also reclean my throttle body. I also bought seafoam and will do.that this weekend. I've had the test pipe for over 4 months and a month ago I did the throttle body bypass. I also bought bhr ignition system today and hope that will fix the problem. I felt I might as well spend the money on it now instead of buying stock and having to replace them down the road since I would like to go major horsepower. I can't really afford to do a compression test cuz I'm afraid of losing 300 if the engine is fine :/. I'm using all your guy opinions and very grateful for the input. Not trying to jack te thread just didn't want to start a new one with this one alive and strong. any input would be great.

valpac

iTrader: (2)

[quote=adamci24;3591254]Ran fine when cool when it got warm it screwed up. The MAF is grounded using pads that contact the intake tube IF the screws are tight (mine wasnt after returning from the dealer).

The reason I asked is it still sounds like a MAF sensor problem. Cleaning it may not fix an issue if it is in fact bad. Also, they can be damaged and go bad from mishandling.

I would try to find a different one, even if its used, for troubleshooting purposes.

rxtreme89

[QUOTE=valpac;3592069]
Yeah see if there is a local 8 in town and meet up with him one weekend to swap maf and have him ride around with you to see if he can give u his opinion and at the same time trouble shoot the problem. If same problem, then u know the maf is fine and better narrow field of what to do next.

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

Rxtreme89: that sounds like a coil problem...

I did notice a better idle when I really tightened down the MAF into the stock intake. Before tightening it, my car had a bad idle all the time. Now that I tightened it, for the past few weeks the car runs fine all the time except for hot days like I've been saying.

rxtreme89

I sure hope so. I seafoamed my car at my work parking lot and it idle slightly better but occasionally dips below 700. I trier the a/c while it was idling at full blast four under a minute and the car didn't react like it did earlier. Adam maybe seafoam it one more time cuz I noticed a lot of smoke like u said, more then many videos and seemed it could of kept going. I'm going to try and do it again this weekend. I hope I can get the ignition system from bhr before three weeks would love to get rid of this problem b4 any real damage occurs.

Does ur car overheat before it shuts down?

BG-8

By "test pipe" do you mean mid pipe/race pipe?


I know that in this thread someone mentioned $300 for a Compression Test, but I forgot to correct that. Compression tests don't cost that much. I just called three Mazda Dealers in the area, and I got the same answer from three of them "$105 for a Compression Test".

Even though $105 is way less than $300, it's still a lot of money. However, your mileage is getting close to 100k, so I would do it anyway just to make sure and to know before I am out of warranty. Also, it could be related to your problem... you never know.

BG-8

Hey, adamci24 & rxtreme89!

Have you guys performed the Mazda Recall "PCM Reflash MSP16"?

rxtreme89

yes i have a midpipe with no cats just straight thru.

i spoke to the service manager at one the local dealerships and mazda is really cracking down on ppl trying to get new engines before 100k. they require for a person to have every oil change receipt, any maintanace was performed and if it is out of line they dont even hesitate. i know a local 8 owner that was trying to break his engine before 100k but had no records of his maintance and the manager said mazda didnt even break a sweat denying him. they want the records from after 60k which I don't have :/ I'm going to stop by tomorrow and talk to the guy see if he can help me out and maybe get his opinion for my car and describe to him Adamc car issues and see what he says.

i will call them up and see what they can do, thanks for the advice.

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

Not sure, I bought the car a few months ago. It's an 05 with 58k...how can I find out?

rxtreme89

Yeah I'm not sure if mines had it either.