adamci24

iTrader: (2)

UPDATE: This thread is a list of problems with my RX8 that resulted in engine replacement. If you are having the same problems as me. I highly suggest you get a compression test done to see if your engine is failing.

Hey guys so today when coming home from work my rx8 stalled on me at a stop light...the car became very sluggish out of 1st gear. Taking a couple seconds to accelerate but once out of first, it drove fine. This slow acceleration continued for a few stop lights and I noticed the RPM was dropping below 750 at idle and was shaking the car...eventually I stopped at a light an the RPMs dropped to Zero and I got no acceleration whatsoever. Engine turned off and no throttle response. I turned the car off and it took 3 tries to get it to start. It cranked and cranked. I inched my way home an when I pulled into the driveway, and put it into park, the RPMs once again dropped and the car stalled.

Here is what I have done to sum it up:
-new plugs
-new coils
-new wires
-new battery
-seafoamed engine (Insane amount of smoke)
-compression test (passed)(Ended up failing second time=new engine)
-Removed AEM CAI for stock intake
-cleaned MAF sensor
-Reset computer by pumping brake pedal
-reset ECU
-NEW CAT

-New Coils helped out a lot with acceleration hesitation...
-Most recent CEL is p2096 "system too lean" bank 1 before Cat Converter and something about a fuel line, had to clear that because I needed to put the new battery in.

Again, car works great in the morning and night, but only acts up during the afternoon when it is very hot outside.

UPDATE: 6/7: ok, the car seems to be running better, it still will lose rpms and stall if I drive it awhile and it gets hot, but not all the time now. My problem is that I keep getting an annoying p2096 CEL code which is a system too lean bank 1 before catalyst. Could this be the o2 sensor? Could a faulty o2 sensor cause stalling and rpms drops when the engine gets hot? I have not installed my new fuel pump yet.

UPDATE: 7/9: Car had it's VDI solonoid harness fixed, but taht did not fix any problems. Car still had problems when hot. Had a mazda technician drive the car with me and it almost stalled on him, except he put it in neutral to save it by revving the RPMs. Car is at the dealer.

UPDATE: 7/20: Dealer finally decided I need a new CAT after the tests failed miserably, once they had removed my aftermarket header and replaced with the stock header. The aftermarket header was not allowing for proper cat test results and was actually making the cat pass its tests. I will post back once the cat is installed.

UPDATE: 7/20: The car needs a new cat. If anybody out there is experiencing my problems, make sure to get the cat checked out.

VERDICT: 7/26: Car needs new engine. After cat replacement. Car still gave misfire codes and the dealer is now replacing engine for free.

----Video----Here is a video of my RX8 stalling at idle in park on a hot day after driving for 30 min. The whole video, the car was vibrating a lot although you can't tell that. When the car stalls, all the indicator lights come on the right side and the oil gauge drops down. Almost impossible to start immediately afterwards, unless you crank and crank and crank...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qlK9Vk6_dCE

SEAFOAM: (no audio)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IaSOKmyWJMo

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

This is an automatic btw.....

Razz1

Have a member from the club in your area look at it.

Could be coils, CAT dead engine, bad battery, several things even the plugs if installed backwards.

xfz

I have a manual that drops below 1 at Idle and gets a little rough though it never dies, I know that battery is good so I kind of assumed that it's coils (it also has some issues starting). I haven't checked them yet because I don't have the space or tools at school but theres a pretty good DIY if you use the search feature. I plan on doing it one of these weekends...

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

I really hope it's just the coils...

Mazurfer

^...............if you wait too long, you will quite possibly have more expensive issues down the road.

To both of you guys............it could be quite a few things like Razz1 mentioned, but you need to start the process of elimination.

We need quite a bit more info if you want us(or anyone) to give you ideas on where to start, but Razz1 hit most of them.

Mazurfer

adamci24..............you got the pdf on how to check the coils out?

How long they been in there?

I also assume you have no CEL(check engine light on)?

silverkillrx8

iTrader: (1)

all i gotta say is take it in to the dealership i had the same problems and well now i gotta new engine .... even tho i hate the stealership they actually helped in this situation ...

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

The CEL came on yesterday randomly when I started my car. The car ran fine all day yesterday so I didn't take it to the dealer, but today the CEL was still on and the issues I talked about above happened. If I remember last month, when I had this stalling issue, the CEL came on. I left the car off for several hours and when I drove it again the CEL was off and the car ran fine up until today. I'm no expert but it seems this is an ignition problem (maybe coils) with the CEL popping on during ignition. I will have to take off a coil and look at it. I will replace them tomorrow and see if there is an improvement. I just baought this car used from a Mazda dealer, it has 56k and I'm
not sure when the coils were changed last.

Mazurfer

Would be very, very useful to go get that code read somewhere like Autozone or Pepboys. Most Autozones will read it for free. Find out what it is and it should help narrow it down a lot.

If you have a meter and know how to use it, then that pdf I attached above would be useful in checking the coils.

If you add your location to your profile, you'd be suprised as someone local might be able to help you out with reading the code and/or helping determine what's wrong.

valpac

iTrader: (2)

Check for dirty or ungrounded MAF sensor. Recently had similar symptoms after getting my car back from the dealer. They didnt tighten the MAF screw.

Check simple (cheap) things first.

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

Where is the MAF sensor located? Sorry, I just got this car so I'm not completely familiar with it yet!

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Could be you SSV as well...of it sticks open the car won;t run for **** ...and it's a common problem on automatics if they are driven carefully

valpac

iTrader: (2)

In the intake tube. Clean the ground pads that contact the tube. Ensure the screw are properly tightened. Ensure the O-ring is not broken.And DO NOT touch the wire wound resistors inside. Spray clean the MAF using MAF cleaner or brake cleaner. You can clean the IAT sensor (brown lollipop) gently with a qtip and some rubbing alcohol.

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

Ok an update:

I went to Autozone and had them test the CEL. 3 errors had to do with the MAF, and one had to do with a large emission leak?? I went and installed new coils....I also removed and cleaned the MAF sensor with the MAF cleaner. Had the battery unplugged for all this so the CEL went off. The car started up great, and drove extremely better, with fast acceleration and right now there is no CEL. Just waiting to see if it lasts like this. But wow what a difference in acceleration with these new coils....

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I would doubt that you have the leak fixed...it won't show up for a couple of drive cycles..

It will run fine with the emissions leak.......unless it is a vac leak as well....but it will throw an annoyong CEL

Mazurfer

Well, let's hope he didn't hear right, or they didn't say it right and that it's just a P0442 Evap leak........and we know that would most likely be the gas cap. Make sure you turn it enough to hear a few clicks Adam. Glad it's running better!

In case it's not fixed and the CEL comes back on, try to have it read again and tell us what the code is, the actual code, not what they say.
Oh.........go ahead and look around the engine bay at all the hoses and where they connect. They all tight and not cracked, or have not fallen off?

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for all the help guys...I'll check the gas cap, and hoses...and wait to see if the CEL comes back on. The guy who did the test said the emissions things not a big deal but could be down the road...He suggested I go to a place to get it fogged out I believe he said.

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

UPDATE: So I replaced the coils a few weeks ago...It fixed my acceleration problems and the car ran great for a while...Then, again the car stalled at an intersection, total loss of engine power. I also noticed that the car had trouble starting when the engine was hot, especially on hot days outside. The check engine light came on again and it was read as a ""secondary air intake sensor malfunction" which again is probably the MAF sensor. I still have the AEM CAI in the car and cleaned the MAF with the official MAF cleaner.

This morning I took the car to my local Mazda dealer. Explained the issues I've been having, and they are going to look at the car today and let me know tonight what they find. The CEL was on when I took it in...The service rep had quoted me $125 for the initial fee to look at the car. I didn't say anything about it, but shouldn't they at least do a compression test and see if it passes or fails before they start charging me money on something that the warranty might cover? I have a feeling they will blame this all on the AEM CAI, which I could understand for some of the rough idle, RPM, maybe stalling problems, but the AEM shouldn't affect the cars hot starting problem, correct? I plan on putting the stock intake in the car after I receive the parts that connect to the main air box, which I don't have right now (just have the airbox).

I will update agin when I see what they say tonight...I just want a compression test done to see what is up with the engine, and if that is one of the problems alongside the AEM. I have a 2005 with 58k BTW.

Thanks guys....

Bigbacon

iTrader: (4)

i bet messed up CAT,

yiksing

Ouch hot starting problem, could be low compression

Kaiser bun

iTrader: (2)

i wouldn't have left your intake in the car when you took it to the dealership, if they are a picky place they might not give you your engine under warranty if that happens to be the problem.

VashGS

Yea this could be a loss of compression. Try get them to pay for the compression test.

adamci24

iTrader: (2)

I had no choice, considering the car was bought with the AEM, and I only have the stock air box, not the connector pieces......I printed out the service bulliten # 01-014/08 "lack of power" to bring with me as backup. If they say it is the intake, then fine, I will get the needed parts to put the stock back in, and I know that will not fix the rough idle and hot start issues, then they have nothing else to blame considering the car has an immaculate carfax service history with one dealer, and the plugs and coils have already been replaced recently...I will find out in a few hours hopefully....

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Your engine is bad.

Dont let them blame the intake, tell them Mazdaspeed sells the SAME EXACT F-ing intake, the only difference is the Badge on the Intake tube. if they still say its different. Send me your pipe I send you mine. and bring it in again, just to shut them up.