sneaky91

I called RB yesterday about the noise from the air injection pump, and they suggested putting the stock cat back on to see if the noise stops...what a B!tch thats going to be. I hope its not a back pressure thing making the pump run faster. Thanks for the reply fuztupnz...I think your correct about the air noise in the midpipe, so now im kind of regretting not getting the dual res RB pipe. Its just the Rev8 exhaust wasnt loud at all.

fuztupnz

iTrader: (4)

It's not a back pressure thing. As stated earlier in the thread, all the air pump does is pump air into the exhaust manifold. It happens above the exhaust ports and is not effected by anything downstream of it.

Did you use a new gasket between the exhaust manifold and the midpipe? If not you should have. Did you go back and make sure that the bolts are still tight. There's a chance you have a small exhaust leak and that's what you're hearing.

sneaky91

I had the car at a friends shop to install the midpipe, but RB forgot to include the 3 nuts to mount the pipe to the header. so i was able the find one nut in his shop, and i installed the one on the top with the donut gasget installed. Im hoping it didnt spit the gasget out on the way down to the hardware store.

fuztupnz

iTrader: (4)

They don't need to send you 3 new nuts. You're supposed to use the originals. If not you replace them. Did you re-use the stock crush gasket? It probably needs replaced. Well, now it definitely needs replaced since you put it together and drove it with only 1 of the the bolts tightened up.

sneaky91

I couldnt reuse the old nuts..the one on the top was welded to the old cat and the other two were ****. I used the new gasget provided...but do you think its damaged now??

Afrobritboy

Fuztupnz thanks bloke. I really appreciate you!!! Cheers

fuztupnz

iTrader: (4)

it's probably crushed more at one point of it than others so when it's bolted up properly it could be leaking. That is if your issue is an exhaust leak. Get a new gasket and put it in. They're cheap and it only takes a few minutes. If you still have noise, put your stock cat back on like RB said. Do you hear the noise all the time, or is it only on cold start up. If it's only on cold start up, it could be like i said earlier and just be you hearing the air pump because the cat isn't muffling the sound anymore.




Afrobritboy: You're welcome. Good luck, and get those codes read at your local autoparts store and post them up. It will help us diagnose what's going on.

Chris

iTrader: (10)

the plugs could very well foul in a short period of time if you are running rich at anytime. Coils could be bad as well which could also foul the plugs. If you replace coils I recommend changing the plugs and wires too

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

Mazda stop selling new engines couple years ago to general public, i think hey can still order it thru mstore(its mazda internal shop name) but its such a pain in the *** and it probably take years for it to come from japan. I had to get somethig for my fc, they had to order it from japan and it took 3 months to come.

So what u got is a mazda remanufacture engine and their quality is really a hit or miss, there have been a dozens of reman engine wih zero compression reported. I meam i got a reman too but i got lucky my engine seems perfect it doesnt stall ever, even when the battery has been disconnected and start fresh

And i hope u didnt pay more than 3k for it.

Mazda reman comes with new water pump and flywheel.

Ngk is the oe spark plugs manufacture.

If you have never replace your coils and spark plug wires ever, then its a good idea to do it now.

Afrobritboy

Alright so I went to auto one and they found codes P0410 and P0301 not sure what exactly they are. Is there a way to avoid taking my car to a dealership to avoid paying that $125 diagnostic? If I have to I don't mind but if I don't I would love not to so far it looks as though I'll have to buy a new secondary air injection pump. I just don't want my driving my cr without a new air injection pump to affect my engine. As I've stated before you've beenuch help, again thanks!

fuztupnz

iTrader: (4)

Code P0410 is a failed Secondary Air Injection Circuit or you air pump. This will not effect any drivability at all. Here's an easy way to check if you pump is working. If it's failed, look for a used one locally first. It will be a lot cheaper.

P0301 Is a misfire code. This thread is a pretty thorough breakdown of what to do. Start with cleaning the eccentric shaft and and reseting the nvram (issue 3 in the thread). If the code comes back, start back at the top of the thread. If you have new plugs, you can just get new coils and wires if needed. Like Chris said though. Plugs can foul out pretty quickly when the car isn't running well.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/suffering-misfire-start-here-222280/


All of the above can be done with hand tools and is very simple. There are diy's for all of it and the thread above has them linked.

Afrobritboy

Brilliant, I will employ all of what you've recommended. Thanks again!!

killa_j

Is it necessary to buy one? It's $400 and all it does is to put air. Does it screw my mpg? Can I just disconnected and use my car without it? My mechanic told me to unplug it every time I start my car then put it back on after a minut.

Hesselrode

iTrader: (3)

You do not need the air pump for functionality. It's purpose is to warm up the catalytic converter. It helps to prolong the life of the cat. If you have a catalytic converter then you need it, if you have a mid pipe or race pipe you don't need it.

MadCat360

When mine went out I bought a used one with 50k miles on it for $160 shipped. I tried to do the bearing fix, but the motor casing was corroded somehow and was putting up a really good fight.

If you get a used one try to find one from a warm climate that might not have been used much.

username15

My 2011 rx8's check engine light came on. It has been losing power. RPMs kept getting lower and lower. I had it checked at a couple of mechanics and they all said it needed a new catalytic converter. I took it to the dealership and payed the $130 for what thought would be a more accurate diagnosis. They told me it was the secondary air pump. I've been reading the thread and if said that even if the air pump is bad, it'd wouldn't affect the performance. The rx8 is seriously lacking power. It feels choppy if you know what I mean. It jerks a lot. So my point is: I'm not sure if it's the pump or the converter. Any and all help would be appreciated. Thanks.

wannawankel

Any issues starting the car warm? Does it idle cold and idle well warm at operating temperature? Did Mazda run a compression on the engine as part of the diagnosis? Mileage of car? Last time coil/wires/plugs changed? Any Check Engine codes? Engine air filter and MAF cleaned? Curious minds wanna know.

mazdaverx7

iTrader: (6)

What codes did the Mazda dealer pull? It could be a converter, low compression, weak coils, bad plugs etc. Its time for a little work on your end to see what components are still ok. Time to pull plugs and inspect them. Time to check the wires over and look at the coils. How is the exhaust pressure at the muffler tips when the engine is running? Is there quite a bit when the engine is revved up? Let us know what you find out and we can go from there.

davebo31

Brettus

iTrader: (2)

yes ...it's called a flash programmer . Cobb or Mazdaedit

hichamaziz

It's easy to replace. Do some searches in the DIY section.

Monstermills

Posted in other related sections


I’m just giving my experience from this P0410 code, in hope to saving someone money. Before buying any new pump or parts make sure you properly diagnose this code. There are a lot of avenues for this code dealing with the secondary air pump. My first task was taking my air pump apart, I live in NY and the winters are cold. My car has 100k on it 75 on the motor after recall.

I took the pump apart and I found that the nut holding the fan blade onto the motor had come off. I could see the nut on the bottom vent side at the bottom of the motor. I used a Dremel and made a large enough hole to pull it out and reassembled the pump. Pump was fixed, now I checked my fuse for it and replaced the 60amp yellow fuse as it was blown.

i had cleared the code and the P0410 continued to show so now at this point I had been stuck for finding anymore diagnosis on our forum. I did find suggestions on parts but no maintenance or cleaning of the egr valve located directly across from the air pump. This is bound to the air pump with a bigger hose shaped like a “U”.

I started to search the P0410 code through google and found a few videos on cleaning the egr or check valves linked to the secondary air pumps. Please note that your air pump may be noticeably louder at start up due to a clogged or dirty egr/check valve. I used 10mm wrench for the two bolts (upside down) under valve and disconnected the “u” shape hose along with the small hose at the back of the Valve. As I removed the valve I noticed the pipe leading to exhaust manifold and the bottom side of the valve were both clogged with residue and gunk. There is also a metal gasket between the two that I had to clean.

I used brake parts cleaner and flushed the valve out from the bottom side twice. Then I filled it with brake cleaner and let it sit for about half hour. Flushed it two more times and cleaned out with a rag and small screw driver (carefully) inside. Blew it out with air and reattached everything to the car. This morning it was 8 degrees, I started the car and it was super quiet compared to before. More importantly no P0410 code and I didn’t have to buy a single part.

drag1c

Hello everyone!
I have noticed that my catalyst showing on odb2 always 350 + celsius. I see it is not working and I have check engine lamp with code P0037.

Could it be possible that air pump do not want to start because of these high temperature errors (because it sees high temp by ECU even in winter period so it doesnt start) ?
Could it be possible that i am getting sometimes check engine light code P0410 because of that reason?

Thanks,
Djordje

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Possible. P0037 means your O2 sensor or the wire to it is damaged. Without a functional heater, the sensor isn't providing a reliable signal.
So one way or another that needs to be repaired.

P0410 is interesting because it only triggers if the air pump was activated. So if you say it comes on sometimes, that could be a clue. Check if the air pump comes on in those instances.

But I'd fix that O2 sensor first and troubleshoot based on new information after that.

Jimmy Julson

how do I find out if somebody lives near me that could help me with my 04 RX8 I can't get it started or nothing I replace $500 with a parts is trying to do that
I live in Bull Shoals Arkansas