Rx8 shift gear problem
#26
U-Stink-But-I-♥-U
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Hi.
Indeed. And to sentence terminating punctuation.
Periods. They're not just for teh end of the month.
When you say "hard to get into 1st" I am assuming that you mean, when you are at a dead stop? Shifting from 2nd to 1st at speeds higher than 20mph is not recommended. At all. It is in the manual. Really, you shouldn't do it at all.
If you mean from a stop, what exactly happens? Grinding or it just feels like there is a spongy block in the way? Also, does it engage easily while you are rolling slowly forward?
This is the mazda throwout bearing. Known issue. If it REALLY starts making noise with the clutch out, then you should replace it. I mean, hard to talk over loud.
Ah. Definitely oil issue. Either low, old or improper weight. I use redline. I have a picture of it uploaded around here somewhere. This is a separate issue. Relates to air flow or the modulation of it. First guess would be that it sounds like a MAF or front 02 sensor issue. Could be other things, I suppose, from dirty filter (unlikely) to a bad TB. All of these would throw a code. Have you pulled the battery cable recently? When you do that, the trims need relearning and the idle will float for a couple start cycles. hfgl.
EDIT: to respond to your other post
Change your oil. Why are you waiting? You're welcome. "Burning smell" could be good, bad, unrelated. Need more info.
Indeed. And to sentence terminating punctuation.
Periods. They're not just for teh end of the month.
If you mean from a stop, what exactly happens? Grinding or it just feels like there is a spongy block in the way? Also, does it engage easily while you are rolling slowly forward?
EDIT: to respond to your other post
hi all, before i do the tranny oil change see if anyone can work this one out i went to the hospital today and on the way it started to change gear o.k but got worse on the way and when at the hospital it would not change at all and when i came out after about 40 mins it was fine again
Last edited by carbonRX8; 09-06-2012 at 09:47 AM.
#27
i will try and explain i went out yesterday and all good gears changed nice and smooth for about an hour then i made my way over to the hospital has i pulled out of a junction i could smell a burning inside the car about 3 mins later it went then it started to get hard to shift gears then at the hospital i went to put it in reverse and it would not go into reverse after 4 or 5 times i managed to get it into reverse and others gears which was very hard then i parked it up went in the hospital for about 40-50 mins came out started the car put it in 1st and all good again smooth gear change for about 3 miles then it started to go again getting harder to shift in all gears managed to get it home and i went to try it last night and only went up the street and back and it was very hard to get it into gears and then that burning smell was back again so i've just left in on the drive until i know what the fault is i was told that the clutch is gone is this right any help would be great has i want the car back on the roads asap.
#29
Zoomin'
iTrader: (8)
Why haven't you changed your tranny oil yet.........?
You're car is most likely due for a trans oil change and you're not going to lose anything by changing it either way, even if it doesn't fix your problem. Your clutch might be bad too, so start looking into that, the OEM clutch kit new goes for around $300 or so and maybe another $400 for getting it installed.
But before assuming it's bad, there are ways to verify if it's no good anymore.
You're car is most likely due for a trans oil change and you're not going to lose anything by changing it either way, even if it doesn't fix your problem. Your clutch might be bad too, so start looking into that, the OEM clutch kit new goes for around $300 or so and maybe another $400 for getting it installed.
But before assuming it's bad, there are ways to verify if it's no good anymore.
#32
My mechanic told me that the thump noise you are hearing when shifting on idle is that the clutch/pressure is not working right and its giving extra force to differential to make that sound. I want opinions before making any purchases. Also the clutch pedal is stiffer than before.
My Another mechanic suggested that it is the rear Axle inner cup that is worn out and thats why you are hearing thump noise on every gear shift during idle of i apply the gear a little quick.
The most important thing was we lifted both the rear wheels and then put the car in first gear, the car made that thump sound but also both tires moved an inch forward by themselves while clutch was depressed. same thing happened while putting it from neutral to other gears. In reverse, the tires moved back an inch.So obviously when the tires are down, then there is no free space for tires to move an inch forward and backward by themselves and thus a thump from backside appears
Need help guys
One last thing, i changed the transmission fluid, and it drank 4 liters to fill. is that normal?
My Another mechanic suggested that it is the rear Axle inner cup that is worn out and thats why you are hearing thump noise on every gear shift during idle of i apply the gear a little quick.
The most important thing was we lifted both the rear wheels and then put the car in first gear, the car made that thump sound but also both tires moved an inch forward by themselves while clutch was depressed. same thing happened while putting it from neutral to other gears. In reverse, the tires moved back an inch.So obviously when the tires are down, then there is no free space for tires to move an inch forward and backward by themselves and thus a thump from backside appears
Need help guys
One last thing, i changed the transmission fluid, and it drank 4 liters to fill. is that normal?
#33
Think I have this problem
i think I have this same problem have a Mazda rx8 231 when car is not moving I can change in too 3 rd gear but when I’m moving I can’t it grinds and u can some times get it in falseing it or some times it will just go in smoothly .. I’ve replaced the clutch and master clutch cylinder and slave cylinder still doing it ... but don’t think it’s the gear box cause surely it would do the same when not driving it if it was can u help anyone is it the engine Mounts ?
#35
#36
If the syncro is bad the only fix is a replacement. However they are somewhat wearable and functionality is on a spectrum. You can help the transmission along by rev matching, double clutching or just slowing your shifts down. It takes some practice to shift quickly without forcing the gear level. Done correctly the transmission will give you feedback that it is accepting the gear change. Grinding and resistance are indications you should try adapting your technique. However eventually the sycros will wear to the point where it is difficult to manage.
You are on the right track by confirming your clutch is operating correctly. A well functioning clutch is key to smooth gear changes.
You are on the right track by confirming your clutch is operating correctly. A well functioning clutch is key to smooth gear changes.
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