newbie1121

My wife is interested in a Rx8 a few years ago but was reading about engine problems so she did nothing.

I was wondering if the newer models have fixed the engine failures i was reading about? And i was wondering what the best model year is?

I was wondering if anyone out there has any recommendations?
Andrew

The Reverend

iTrader: (1)

the 09/10s did address much of the engine failure issues.

If you can't buy a new one, get at least an 06+

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Most of the engine failures were on 2004s with automatic transmissions. The 2004s in general had more issues due to the flash not adding enough oil and a few other things off the boat, and the automatics being 4-port and usually driven much more casually compounded the problem.

Compounding THAT was the original reman facility for the engine replacements did not have very good quality control, and alot of those original reman engines had improper seal clearances and other build issues that caused quite a few people to get to their 3rd or 4th engines.

MSP-16 updated the flash and improved things greatly, and happened early 2005. Mazda North America can tell you if MSP-16 was performed for any 2004 or 2005 if you give them the VIN. they also re-vamped their reman facility, and reman engines 2006+ are now usually far better than the original factory ones. So if you find a 2004, 2005, or 2006 with an engine replacement that occured late 2006 or later, don't take the engine replacement as a negative mark against the vehicle, but a positive one, as it means the engine is likely in fantastic shape, and good for quite a long time.

Plenty of 2004s were still perfectly fine.

2005s have a much reduced failure rate, 2006 further, 2007 and 2008 are relatively rare.


In 2009 they introduced further engine changes correcting several things, the most critical of which was an increase in oil pressure to RX-7 ranges (they dropped it for the 2004-2008 years for some reason), and re-introducing the center oil injector (they deleted it for the 2004-2008 RX-8s for some reason, all prior rotories had it).

I have not heard of a 2009+ engine failing yet.



A compression test should be standard before anyone buys an 8 though, just to be on the safe side.

Huey52

iTrader: (2)

^ In general I concur with RIWWP's insight, but be reminded that there are more early year RX-8's out there and in aggregate they have more miles on them, so to some degree it is natural that there are fewer '09/'10 engine problems reported.

As with buying any pre-owned vehicle, the more you can assure yourself of a good maintenance history the better off you'll be. I'd much rather have a fairly low mileage '04/'05 with a good history than a newer one without. This vehicle demands proper maintenance.

newbie1121

Does anyone know what problems the 09/10's have been having or even 08's?
I read about the cold morning start problems, the coil problems, and some others?

Andrew

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Most of the 09 problems I have seen people post about is not having mods that work with their series, mainly the AccessPORT.

A few with transmission issues, but nothing alarming.


2008s are probably the rarest posters in terms of issues relating to drivetrain.


We generally don't see the year of car when they talk about the other minor stuff not related to the drivetrain.


The starter, tailight gasket, and visor issues were all fixed in 2005/2006. Nothing else is considered major or worse than other makes/models.

jasonrxeight

what about right after a new engine dropped in?

VashGS

Depends on who's slapping the engine in. No love = fail... old hoses and bent fuel injection hose connectors causing fires, ripped firewall insulators, no cleaning of AC drain, delivering cars back to customer with broken motor mount, broken clutch pedals.

Little bit of fail somewhere along the line between Mazda, the stealerships and the customer.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Missed the coil question.

Coils are a wear item that Mazda doesn't acknowledge as a wear item. They need to be replaced every $30,000 miles or so (as soon as 15k if you get a bad set, a few rare lucky people have gone 60k), but they are $140 (total, that's for all 4) from forum vendors here and ~20 minutes with a 10mm socket wrench even if you are completely unskilled at mechanical work.

So no reason not to. BHR's ignition upgrade is $485 or so, and is a 1-time deal that you won't have to touch again.

Cold start problems just means they still have the 2004 starter or their battery is weak like any other car might. Easy to handle, nothing unusual.

ken-x8

Off by a year or two.

I remember the dates well. Zoomy is an '06, build date Feb '06, brought home from the adoption agency July '06. So we were in the midst of the fixes.

4206f, the general "test them all and reflash" campaign, was mid '06. Had just under 3000 miles when I brought him in. My understanding is that the flash improved the oiling, plus had some anti-flooding tweaks like fuel shutoff if floored when cranking, and injection starting after a couple of spins.

The first rebuilder was active for 4206f. I don't remember when they were shut down and the Virginia operation started. But the first ones were part of the "White glove" treatment.

MSP16 was about a year after 4206f, and is the one that primarily improved oiling.

So an '07 would be the golden year for Series 1. '06 is also a good year because, besides good chances for the 4206f flash, it has:

o Improved sun visors and heater *****...less likely to break
o Translucent washer fluid reservoir
o Rock shield in front of the AC condensor
o If you want an automatic (not that there's anything wrong with that) '06 has the 6 port engine and 6 speed slushbox.

Ken

Renesis07

iTrader: (1)

06 +, like mentioned above. 04's-05's are hit or miss, with no gray area.

newbie1121

Regarding ->So no reason not to. BHR's ignition upgrade is $485 or so, and is a 1-time deal that you won't have to touch again.

So are you saying that this upgrade removes the need for new coils all the time?
Andrew

Renesis07

iTrader: (1)

I truly have little knowledge on this ignition solution, but Im almost sure you will still have to change plugs/coils/wires. These coils may last longer however, idk. Someone will follow my post with a more precise answer Im sure....

DocBeech

iTrader: (1)

I alreay have a set up going, but in the next 20,000 miles I will be dropping in a new engine if I can get it to fail compression. Currently the engine is at 55,000 miles and passed its compression check. If that gives you any insight. I have set aside, new oil coolers and lines. Mine have taken a highway beating. New radiator. BHR ignition pack. Clutch pack including flywheel. Clutch cable. AEM Intake. MAF. Radiator hoses. Replacement connections for my Race Beat gauge set, and a carbon fiber hood. I got all these things in prep for a new engine being mines been ran for 55,000 miles now. I drive from here to teh coast and to our ranch in llano a lot, but the engine has passed compression tests twice now. Luckily my buddy is a service manager at a small mazda shop. We have decided to put a new engine in at 95000 miles fail compression or not.

ken-x8

Why do you think you need a new engine?

Ken

DocBeech

iTrader: (1)

oh I don't think I need a new one, but I want a new one right before the warranty goes kaput. Giving me 5000 miles to ensure no last min hiccups.

Renesis07

iTrader: (1)

8 year/100K engine core warranty??

DocBeech

iTrader: (1)

yes that one.

ken-x8

So you would spend the money to replace a good engine, rather than just wait and possibly spend the same money if it blew?

Interesting.

Ken

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Correct. I haven't heard of a single user of their ignition solution needing new coils, even the long time ones.

You will still need new wires and plugs periodically, but not coils.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

And DocBeech, I recognize you are trying to help, but your posts, in other threads as well as this one, are generally not helpful, as they contain completely irrelevant information, comments which clearly show you didn't bother reading the OPs post, much less any of the responses since, or flat out wrong information.

Please read more, post less, until you get your facts straight.

But even then, don't drop the "read more" part. It's still a valuable skill to have.

You are already gaining a reputation for mis-information, so please back off a bit before you solidify it.