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Goal is for a nice reliable car to drive to the occasional track day, play around with on weekends etc. This is the build / to-do list. How's it look? What am I missing?
Car: ’09 R3
Goal: reliable, robust DD and hpde car (intermediate level)
Engine
BHR ignition
Quality wires
BHR midpipe
M1 0w40 oil
Idumitsu premix
DIY filled engine mounts
Set rev limiter to 8.5k via Mazdaedit
also - if you're daily driving your car, you might not want the HP+... they howl like banshees and dust like a motherf*cker. If you're swapping for the track, that's fine, but I found driving on my HP+ as a DD was pretty annoying...
I'd also look at the RB oil cooler screens or something along those lines as well - the oil coolers are pretty exposed...
also consider adding stainless steel braided brake lines and speed bleeders for ease of future maintenance...
Odd, I've never had issues with the HP+ making noise except for a bit of 'grind'.
Oil cooler screens! DIY'ing that right now
Good idea on brake lines & bleeders.
The BHR resonated midpipe is on, and I can't stand the exhaust sound. Not loud, but tinny and wimpy sounding. I'll have to figure something out.
and the HP+ seem to squeal a lot more once they have been up to temp and come back down. It wasn't bad before a track day, but once you get on them and heat them up, they tend to squeal more afterwards FWIW.
Odd, we've had different experiences with the HP+
Mine were always rather grindy when cold, and not very responsive, rather heavy pedal effort. Quiet and grippier, lighter pedal effort when hot. Once cooled off, back to grindy. This was 2 cars and several sets of pads/rotors.
I'll keep the midpipe thanks but must add something to get rid of the tin sound.
Wow - found something interesting for the noise. Don't laugh: "Steel pak" muffler. Glasspack but with SS wool instead of fiberglass. I love the glasspack sound but rotary will melt it. Steel pak - may have to try one of these welded inline. Hmmmm.
My experience with them was similar to yours until I got them up to temperature at the track. They didn't squeal or squeak at the track, but after they had hit that peak temperature (or peak at that time), they seemed to squeal a lot more when doing DD duty.
I find that with the RB non-resonated midpipe and the RB catback, it's a little raspy when getting on the throttle in the mid range - but once you get up to 6500+, the sound completely changes. I also have a thing for the smell... hahaha. I just wouldn't mind if it were a little quieter with a resonator or two...
also - not sure if the BHR is necessary. I also have an 09 R3, and track pretty regularly. At 52k on the stock coils, no issues (yet)...
Goal is for a nice reliable car to drive to the occasional track day, play around with on weekends etc. This is the build / to-do list. How's it look? What am I missing?
Car: ’09 R3
Goal: reliable, robust DD and hpde car (intermediate level)
Engine
BHR ignition - Good idea. If I could do it over again, I might choose Sake Bomb, but I'm happy with my BHR ignition kit.
Quality wires - The BHR kit includes good wires. If yours look tired, Charles will sell you just a set of wires.
BHR midpipe - A good reliability mod. I eventually had an HJS cat welded into mine, as I tired of the smell.
M1 0w40 oil - The same oil I use.
Idumitsu premix - Also consider Lucas 2 Cycle. I buy it by the gallon from Amazon Prime.
DIY filled engine mounts - I will do this when mine eventually fail, but they are holding up surprisingly well so far.
Set rev limiter to 8.5k via Mazdaedit - That is where I start my shift!
Trans/rear
Redline fluids - Good choice. MT90 in the trans and 75W90 in the diff is a winning combination.
Clutch pedal reinforcement - Not sure this is needed in an S2
Suspension
performance alignment - Yep!
perhaps control/trailing arm bushings at some point - Not worth the squeek, IMHO. The stock ones are pretty hard. I might do something once they wear out, but I have 50+ track days on mine, and they are fine.
otherwise stock - On an R3, I totally agree!
Brakes
Flush with high quality fluid - I use ATE Typ 200. Half the price of other fluids and almost as good. Works just as well if you manage your braking well.
Hawk HP+ or similar pads - Sound like a howler monkey had a 3-way alien love child with a school bus and a fog horn once they have been heat cycled. Take a look at Carbotech. You'll never touch Hawk anything again.
Cooling
Stock components, ensure radiator well sealed - Don't seal it too well. Some air is meant to get past the foam and cool the engine compartment.
High quality replacement hoses - Not needed until your hoses are 10 years old.
Mazmart 172F tstat - Not needed.
Mazdaedit fans to 180F - As you like it. I just wired up a switch to turn them on when I want them on like at the start of my cool-down lap or when I am stuck in traffic.
DIY oil/brake duct mods - Probably a good idea.
Coolant flush and fill stock 50/50 - Pony up for Mazda FL-22. No reason to risk your engine to save a few bucks on coolant.
Coolant temp gauge - I use an OBDLINK with Torque or Harry's Lap Timer to monitor my coolant temp.
Appearance
Tint - Hell yes!
10mm rear wheel spacers - I'm not a fan of spacers on the track.
Some random thoughts above.
You also might think about getting a dedicated set of rims and tires for track use.
.
Last edited by Steve Dallas; 01-29-2016 at 09:06 AM.
You also might think about getting a dedicated set of rims and tires for track use.
Thanks for the feedback!
Just installed the BHR kit with new wires from Charles, went on like a charm a couple days ago.
Interesting 2 people now don't like the HP+ pads. Maybe I've had the only positive experience. Carbotech it is
FL-22 on order from Prime. I did not realize it was already 50/50 till reading up. Not accustomed to spending $22/gal on anything less than 80proof whoo that is expensive magic dust in the glycol!
Absolutely will go to a dedicated wheel/tire setup if I get serious enough. For now will stick with 200 treadwear dual-use tires.
A previous toy ('90 RX7 GTUs) was an effective weapon on Direzza Star Spec tries. It ran down many much faster cars, and could still be (carefully) driven in the rain. I like the idea of a true 'dual use' vehicle with no changes needed.
I abandoned the wheel spacer idea. 10mm was too much. Ideally 5mm would 'correct' the stance, but then it's converting the wheels to stud-centric instead of hub-centric, which is a terrible idea.
I touched up the rock chips on the wheels with a Toyota color another member found. A near-perfect match.
I'm doing the stereo very similar to Steve Dallas as well. Sound deadening in doors and package shelf, Alpine SPS-110TW tweeters in the sail panels, and a small sealed sub in back.
I tried something different for the sub: a 'low profile' all in one. This is a 'Rockford' 8" model, what swayed me were all the positive reviews and low price point. If it does not work out, it'll go in my wife's Fiat 500 Abarth
The install was pretty simple. It is 'mounted' to the floor with heavy duty Velcro. The Velcro sticks like glue to the factory carpeting material, it's not budging; and in fact is difficult to remove! It sounds, surprisingly, quite decent. It will not blow out the windows, but the bass is tight and reasonably deep.
Finally, a stealthy 'Save the Manuals' decal on the rear passenger window. Black on black, very low key. Those who notice will appreciate it
Interesting 2 people now don't like the HP+ pads. Maybe I've had the only positive experience. Carbotech it is
I like HP+ for autocross. Their initial bite and temperature range works well in that environment. I don't like them for track use. Their lack of modulation, tendency to overheat and fade, and propensity to howl after having been heat cycled makes them unsuitable to that task IMHO.
I went through several types of Hawk pads and ended up trying Carbotech, which was a revelation. They have none of the problems I had with Hawk pads. I like X10 front and XP8 rear with summer tires and XP12/XP10 with R comps.
I have never come across a pad that truly works as a hybrid street/track pad. You can make it work for street plus some autoX applications, however. What I am doing now is running Carbotech 1521 pads on the street and swapping to whichever track pads are appropriate for track day. They share the same rotors, and it actually works, because their compounds are compatible, and rotor wear is minimal with Carbotech pads. I tried that approach with Hawk pads, but they each wore the rotors differently and unevenly, causing the approach to fail.
Yeah, I'm a big fan of that oil in a lot of applications. I recommend it a lot.
Have you heard of a lot of people with rotaries using it?
Well, SteveDallas (above) is one,
And I searched around a lot on the forums, including the monster oil thread, iirc there were a number of people using it.
Your car looks terrific. I'm hoping to find something very similar to it.
Why do you set the rev limiter to 8.5k ?
Thanks!
From reading on here:
-some concern of the rotors contacting the housings at high rpm
-power peaks at 8-8.5k, by 9k it's tapering off quickly, so no need to rev over 8.5k anyway
01-14-2016, 12:23 PM
but must add something to get rid of the tin sound.
whoo that is expensive magic dust in the glycol!
