My car wont start
03-10-2014, 09:29 PM
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My car wont start
I just payed the dealer to deflood it in the fall.
I got a new battery.
Just got the tires balanced.
Oil is good for another 2,000 mi
Just got an inspection and got the clear. WTF?
I warmed up the car and it stooped in the road. Car wont turn over. But it will start. No start on the engine.
Gonna call the dealer tomorrow but anyone have any ideas what it is?
I got a tune up like 2yrs ago but my mechanic said I wont have to get one for a LONG! time.
I got a new battery.
Just got the tires balanced.
Oil is good for another 2,000 mi
Just got an inspection and got the clear. WTF?
I warmed up the car and it stooped in the road. Car wont turn over. But it will start. No start on the engine.
Gonna call the dealer tomorrow but anyone have any ideas what it is?
I got a tune up like 2yrs ago but my mechanic said I wont have to get one for a LONG! time.
03-10-2014, 09:32 PM
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Um, "Car wont turn over" is directly contradicted by "But it will start" which is directly contradicted by "No start on the engine"
Sorry, can you try to explain again? I don't know what you mean here, other than you are having starting issues.
And regarding the tune-up, ignore your mechanic. You need coils, plugs, and wires replaced every 30,000 miles, wires sooner if it just sits in the garage all the time, since they can rust out. If you drive it plenty, this could be simple ignition failure that then flooded the engine. The flood last fall had a reason behind it, either ignition, engine compression, battery health, or starter health. You had the dealer deflood it, but did you fix what caused the flood in the first place?
Sorry, can you try to explain again? I don't know what you mean here, other than you are having starting issues.
And regarding the tune-up, ignore your mechanic. You need coils, plugs, and wires replaced every 30,000 miles, wires sooner if it just sits in the garage all the time, since they can rust out. If you drive it plenty, this could be simple ignition failure that then flooded the engine. The flood last fall had a reason behind it, either ignition, engine compression, battery health, or starter health. You had the dealer deflood it, but did you fix what caused the flood in the first place?
03-10-2014, 09:38 PM
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Um, "Car wont turn over" is directly contradicted by "But it will start" which is directly contradicted by "No start on the engine"
Sorry, can you try to explain again? I don't know what you mean here, other than you are having starting issues.
And regarding the tune-up, ignore your mechanic. You need coils, plugs, and wires replaced every 30,000 miles, wires sooner if it just sits in the garage all the time, since they can rust out. If you drive it plenty, this could be simple ignition failure that then flooded the engine. The flood last fall had a reason behind it, either ignition, engine compression, battery health, or starter health. You had the dealer deflood it, but did you fix what caused the flood in the first place?
Sorry, can you try to explain again? I don't know what you mean here, other than you are having starting issues.
And regarding the tune-up, ignore your mechanic. You need coils, plugs, and wires replaced every 30,000 miles, wires sooner if it just sits in the garage all the time, since they can rust out. If you drive it plenty, this could be simple ignition failure that then flooded the engine. The flood last fall had a reason behind it, either ignition, engine compression, battery health, or starter health. You had the dealer deflood it, but did you fix what caused the flood in the first place?
03-10-2014, 09:46 PM
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Looks like they
Deflooded
Replaced the Battery with a new one
Inspected
Checked my brakes and tires.
I thought the low battery was the main cause.
Deflooded
Replaced the Battery with a new one
Inspected
Checked my brakes and tires.
I thought the low battery was the main cause.
Last edited by sleepstalker; 03-10-2014 at 09:49 PM.
03-10-2014, 10:49 PM
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Hey guys am having a similar issue if anybody can contact me with some help. My car turns on but after it warms up and i turn it off it will not let me turn it back on till after 30 min minimum.
03-11-2014, 06:20 AM
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They also wrote under additional recommended services, emission service system. Does that relate to the sensors? I thought they check for any potential problems? Plus my mechanic just gave me a clean OK on my inspection. Ran a diagnostic on everything and it came up ok. I dont know... thats what pisses me off. We'll see today what can be done.
03-11-2014, 07:50 AM
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Sorry, first thanks for answering man. You always have my back. Much appreciated. Yeah the dash board lights come on but the engine wont start. I put the peddle to the gas all the way but it wont start. I just shut it off. It hasnt been 30,000 mi since the last tune up. I have the report one sec I'll tell ya.
They also wrote under additional recommended services, emission service system. Does that relate to the sensors? I thought they check for any potential problems? Plus my mechanic just gave me a clean OK on my inspection. Ran a diagnostic on everything and it came up ok. I dont know... thats what pisses me off. We'll see today what can be done.
Get a compression test, you probably have a failing engine.
03-11-2014, 07:55 AM
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If you are holding the gas pedal to the floor, it is cutting all fuel delivery while cranking and the engine won't start, it's part of the pre-programmed deflooding procedure. Have you tried starting without holding the gas pedal to the floor?
Perhaps, I'll assume that it was for now.
Yeah, it sounds like dealer smoke and mirrors trying to fleese you for more money.
Get a compression test, you probably have a failing engine.
Perhaps, I'll assume that it was for now.
Yeah, it sounds like dealer smoke and mirrors trying to fleese you for more money.
Get a compression test, you probably have a failing engine.
Edit: I called back Mazda and asked for the compression test. They are gonna do it for free. The road side service got the car to start.
Last edited by sleepstalker; 03-11-2014 at 08:11 AM.
03-11-2014, 08:02 AM
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The compression test comment wasn't directed at you, but at the person that is threadjacking.
For you, it sounds like you were the one preventing your engine from starting with the gas pedal to the floor, unless I'm misunderstanding you. I don't see where a dealer is needed for that.
I really recommend against just bringing it to the dealer unless you have lots of cash to spend. For example, you could end up with a bill for $1,800 for new ignition if they decide that you need new coils, plugs, and wires, even if you don't.
This really is something that you can solve yourself, if you have the motivation to do so.
For you, it sounds like you were the one preventing your engine from starting with the gas pedal to the floor, unless I'm misunderstanding you. I don't see where a dealer is needed for that.
I really recommend against just bringing it to the dealer unless you have lots of cash to spend. For example, you could end up with a bill for $1,800 for new ignition if they decide that you need new coils, plugs, and wires, even if you don't.
This really is something that you can solve yourself, if you have the motivation to do so.
03-11-2014, 08:28 AM
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The compression test comment wasn't directed at you, but at the person that is threadjacking.
For you, it sounds like you were the one preventing your engine from starting with the gas pedal to the floor, unless I'm misunderstanding you. I don't see where a dealer is needed for that.
I really recommend against just bringing it to the dealer unless you have lots of cash to spend. For example, you could end up with a bill for $1,800 for new ignition if they decide that you need new coils, plugs, and wires, even if you don't.
This really is something that you can solve yourself, if you have the motivation to do so.
For you, it sounds like you were the one preventing your engine from starting with the gas pedal to the floor, unless I'm misunderstanding you. I don't see where a dealer is needed for that.
I really recommend against just bringing it to the dealer unless you have lots of cash to spend. For example, you could end up with a bill for $1,800 for new ignition if they decide that you need new coils, plugs, and wires, even if you don't.
This really is something that you can solve yourself, if you have the motivation to do so.
03-11-2014, 11:01 AM
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Prior to all this my car was shaking quite a bit when driving. I think its something with the engine. Maybe one of these possibities?
Worn Out Spark Plugs
Loose or Disconnected Hoses
Broken Motor Mounts
Faulty or Poorly Adjusted Fuel Intake System
Faulty Timing Belt
Vapor Lock
Compression Check
DeFlood
Fuses
Worn Out Spark Plugs
Loose or Disconnected Hoses
Broken Motor Mounts
Faulty or Poorly Adjusted Fuel Intake System
Faulty Timing Belt
Vapor Lock
Compression Check
DeFlood
Fuses
Last edited by sleepstalker; 03-11-2014 at 11:07 AM.
03-11-2014, 11:32 AM
#13
Are you mechanically inclined at all?
RIWWP stated it sounds like maybe the ignition, so coils, wires and plugs. The reason the car floods is ignition, compression, battery or starter (as stated by RIWWP). One of those reasons needs to be addressed. The battery was already replaced, if your dealer is going to give you a free compression test, then may as well do it so you can mark that off your list. If you think it is the plugs, you should replace the coils, plugs and wires all at the same time. If all this is done or ok (compression) then it is probably the starter (although you should be able to tell about the starter from the comp test also).
If you have any mechanical ability at all, you can do the ingnition yourself as it is not really that difficult and would be $100s cheaper to do it instead of the dealer.
RIWWP stated it sounds like maybe the ignition, so coils, wires and plugs. The reason the car floods is ignition, compression, battery or starter (as stated by RIWWP). One of those reasons needs to be addressed. The battery was already replaced, if your dealer is going to give you a free compression test, then may as well do it so you can mark that off your list. If you think it is the plugs, you should replace the coils, plugs and wires all at the same time. If all this is done or ok (compression) then it is probably the starter (although you should be able to tell about the starter from the comp test also).
If you have any mechanical ability at all, you can do the ingnition yourself as it is not really that difficult and would be $100s cheaper to do it instead of the dealer.
03-11-2014, 12:16 PM
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I'm not sure where you are getting that list sleepstalker. But it clearly isn't from a rotary symptom/cause sheet. The presence of a "timing belt" gives that away, with the "fuel intake system" contributing to the doubt.
03-11-2014, 01:12 PM
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Are you mechanically inclined at all?
RIWWP stated it sounds like maybe the ignition, so coils, wires and plugs. The reason the car floods is ignition, compression, battery or starter (as stated by RIWWP). One of those reasons needs to be addressed. The battery was already replaced, if your dealer is going to give you a free compression test, then may as well do it so you can mark that off your list. If you think it is the plugs, you should replace the coils, plugs and wires all at the same time. If all this is done or ok (compression) then it is probably the starter (although you should be able to tell about the starter from the comp test also).
If you have any mechanical ability at all, you can do the ingnition yourself as it is not really that difficult and would be $100s cheaper to do it instead of the dealer.
RIWWP stated it sounds like maybe the ignition, so coils, wires and plugs. The reason the car floods is ignition, compression, battery or starter (as stated by RIWWP). One of those reasons needs to be addressed. The battery was already replaced, if your dealer is going to give you a free compression test, then may as well do it so you can mark that off your list. If you think it is the plugs, you should replace the coils, plugs and wires all at the same time. If all this is done or ok (compression) then it is probably the starter (although you should be able to tell about the starter from the comp test also).
If you have any mechanical ability at all, you can do the ingnition yourself as it is not really that difficult and would be $100s cheaper to do it instead of the dealer.
Its too late they already have the car at the dealer.
03-11-2014, 03:15 PM
#17
Well, sounds like it was the ignition system, and the cat failing was likely due to needing ignition system replaced. You should read the links in RIWWP sig, especially the first one. This would have saved you money, time and frustration.
03-14-2014, 12:47 PM
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Last time I go to the dealer $600 bucks worth of parts and $250 in labor. I admit the car drives much better but still payed out the ***. Will go to my mechanic next time and I will be reading those threads whenever I can RIWWP.
Last edited by sleepstalker; 03-14-2014 at 04:29 PM.
03-14-2014, 06:52 PM
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03-14-2014, 07:20 PM
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Prior to all this my car was shaking quite a bit when driving. I think its something with the engine. Maybe one of these possibities?
Worn Out Spark Plugs
Loose or Disconnected Hoses
Broken Motor Mounts
Faulty or Poorly Adjusted Fuel Intake System
Faulty Timing Belt
Vapor Lock
Compression Check
DeFlood
Fuses
Worn Out Spark Plugs
Loose or Disconnected Hoses
Broken Motor Mounts
Faulty or Poorly Adjusted Fuel Intake System
Faulty Timing Belt
Vapor Lock
Compression Check
DeFlood
Fuses
03-14-2014, 08:35 PM
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Flooded Help, I am new to the RX8 (its my GFs car) I believe it is flooded and looked at the other DIY but I have a question. She has a 2008 and I think i am looking at the engine ports but they seem to already have a T coming from where you add oil to the car. See attached picks. Would i just move that line to the
window washer fluid to the ports? am i looking at the wrong spot?
window washer fluid to the ports? am i looking at the wrong spot?
Last edited by cdurrett; 03-14-2014 at 08:37 PM.
03-14-2014, 11:09 PM
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Flooded Help, I am new to the RX8 (its my GFs car) I believe it is flooded and looked at the other DIY but I have a question. She has a 2008 and I think i am looking at the engine ports but they seem to already have a T coming from where you add oil to the car. See attached picks. Would i just move that line to the
window washer fluid to the ports? am i looking at the wrong spot?
window washer fluid to the ports? am i looking at the wrong spot?
03-15-2014, 04:46 PM
#23
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Never mined this did the trick :https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-...lumber-182410/
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