yogitrek

I read here that I am supposed to redline every day but I do not know how to do this without literally FLYING down the road. At present I am at just over 1500 miles on the car. I am still breaking things in and at 7000 rpm I am going well over 70 in third gear. My question is How do I safely (and somewhat legally) get my car up to 9000 rpm after it is fully broken in?

Your detailed counsel will be greatly appreciated!

Yogi

deadphoenix52

first gear anywhere. second getting onto the highway. 3rd when no ones around

yogitrek

Hi and thank you for your advise...

Do you know what speeds I will be hitting as I near 9 grand in first and second?

Cheers,
Yogi

Spin9k

...maybe like 40 in 1st, 64 in 2nd, 94 in 3rd. All relatively easily done lots of places....causes it goes fast, and stops fast.

...but to answer your ??? ... take it to the track. You can redline (and will) to your heart's content!

kjb

I have a highway nearby with a 65 mph speed limit. It's a good place to let the engine wind up. Freeway on ramps are another handy place. It's tough to be inconspicuous in other places.

jasonrxeight

try 2nd gear.
2nd gear redline should put you around 60mph, then just short shift to 6th and drive normally.

SayNoToPistons

iTrader: (8)

I like to use the right pedal to get me up to 9000 rpm. After I hit 9000 RPM, i usually use the middle pedal with the stick thing in the middle of the console in center position or one of the notches to the right side.

yogitrek

Thank you all for your input...

I will try second on a sweeping freeway onramp (I was trying third but I was going way too fast and was under 7000 rpm's anyway)...

It looks like second gear at 60 ish should fit the bill...

Last question- is 60 in second safe for the car? (I know I am so very lame with my questions but I have never had a rotary nor have I ever had a sports car- last car 92 honda with well over 200k) so I am wanting to enjoy my car without damaging it.

Cheers and thanks again,
Yogi

kvndoom

I do miss doing that...

yogitrek

Cheers,
Yogi

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

Yogi, what model year is your car?

Icky Mettle

As others have said, freeway onramps. Know them and love them. Depending on your daily commute and the nature of the onramp, simply do a nice long pull in second and hold it for short while just shy of redline. The important part to remember is to make sure your engine is up to temperature and that although your water temp might read as optimal on the dummy gauge, it usually takes a little while longer for your oil temps to reach the optimal levels.

Honestly, I'm not too keen on redlining in first. That's just my personal preference, though. I feel far more resistance on the stick during high RPM 1st-2nd shifts, which worries me a little given the delicate nature of our transmissions. High RPM shifts in any other gear slice like butter, but that 1st-2nd throw can get a little sticky.

jasonrxeight

my shifter sticks sometimes 1st to 2nd for no reason.
its like something is locking it in 1st.

yogitrek

Do you think the model year makes a difference to safe redlining (or even the need to redline in the first place?)

Cheers,
Yogi

PS I am still keeping things under 7000 rpm's for now slowly working the rev's up to the redline.

yogitrek

Thank you for your thoughts...

Do you think I should get an oil temp gauge? If so what is the oil temp supposed to be when it is warmed up? At present I drive about two miles before I hit the freeway and the temp gauge shows warm after about one mile (three stop signs).

Cheers,
Yogi

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

If I didn't, I would not have asked.

The "redline a day" concept, IMO, was borne of a problem inherent with the 2004 and 2005 models and redlining the engine is not typically needed these days (especially with the EMOP/third OMP injector-equipped models such as yours). Every once in a while, wring that thing out to 9K, but it isn't needed every day.

I have an '04 that I rebuilt according to the shitty factory specs (I no longer build Renesis engines according to Mazda's specs, btw) 75K miles ago and I have no issues with the engine's durability/reliability and neither have those for whom I have built engines. Granted, I have modified mine a bit, but that isn't important when comparing mine to yours (except for the ignition system).

Charles R. Hill

iTrader: (7)

If I may stick my snout in on this one, too; the "oil temp" concern is another issue that has seen way more forum attention than needed. Drive your car normally, keep the oil in good shape, clean your air filter, use good gas, and enjoy the car. Take it to the track once in a while and it'll be happy.

Spin9k

My sense is this might help you. It's a training you can do to acclumate yourself to the rotary redline vs the normal piston engine redlining experience. It easy and fun, not even illegal FCOL.

On the freeway speed up normally and go 70-75 mph or whatever in 5th or 6th gear. Downshift to 3rd gear giving enough gas so your road speed stays the same. Note the engine sound and feel. Hang there for like 5-10 seconds then speed up to 80mph momentarily, still in 3rd gear. Now slow down to 60 mph, shift into second. Same drill, drive at 60-55 for some seconds. Just watch and listen, you won't hurt anything.

Now resume your normal driving and/or maybe try it again if you want. That should get you feeing the upper RPM areas and you'll see and feel that nothing much is different, the engine is perfectly at ease and is happily humming along. It takes a leap of faith, but that's just some of the magic

jasonrxeight

I wouldnt downshift to 2nd when doing 55-60 thats too high rpm and if not proper rev match you buring clutch.

what to do is take a couple on and off ramps, gentle start then get in 2nd gear give it full throttle allow the rpm climb into the red line.

also RPM isnt really important. whats important is going WOT at high rpm to blow out the carbon. you can sit rev in neutral it wont do a thing cuz there isnt much air going thur the engine.

Spin9k

^ you can't be serious ????

Spin9k

^ I've done just that. ... oh... let me guess ... 500 times .. no 700 times... maybe more ... but I was going even faster if you can imagine! Yikes what have I done.....^

jasonrxeight

yes I believe Im very serious. the main point is to blow the carbon out. no air = no carbon out.

yogitrek

DO you think I need an oil temp gauge or will the in dash water temp be OK to use for warm up?

Cheers again,
Yogi

Razz1

That's all you need.

Icky Mettle

Ultimately it depends on how fastidious you want to be about monitoring temps. Unless you're planning to track your car regularly and wring out the engine for extended periods of time, I'm going to say no. Under most driving conditions, be it either commuting or spirited runs, it's by no means a necessity.

Going back to what I said earlier; Charles is right. In fairweather conditions oil temps will scale to the optimal levels in a short period of time, which should be about consistent with the time it takes your water to hit the right temperatures. This might not apply to you as I don't know where you live, but it only becomes an issue and something you should be mindful of in winter conditions where oil temps simply don't climb as quickly. I still prefer to wait a little longer after full warm up before winding it out in such conditions, but again, that's just me.

The general opinion is that the stock temperature gauge isn't terribly accurate, but I'd have to let someone more knowledgeable about the issue advise on that. For most of us it serves perfectly fine for everyday use. However, if you'd prefer to see hard numbers rather than an estimated scale, then a set of auxiliary gauges might just be your thing.